For steel wool you can use a magnet wraped in paper in the hand holding the steelwool. You can also clean it afterward with just the magnet (a "sacifical" one, also)
I just got this wax for a 90's Jackson Kelly mij guitar. The guitar was damaged in a flood we had, so the finish was trashed. I stripped the paint off and did a natural wood finish with tung Oil, also rewired it and put a sick pair of Duncan Invaders in it. The finish came out great, this will make it even better. My uncle also just built a ukulele and did a tung Oil and this wax, came out great and highly recommends it.
Amazing, i wire wool all my oil finishes to a nice flat satin-ish look and finally use a polishing compound but now i've seen this i have to get me some of that wax, cheers.
I've had this same problem with wire wool, something I've been thinking of doing but not done yet, is to get a reasonably big neodymium magnet and wrap the wool around prior to sanding. Maybe the magnet will keep the dropped filings on the mass of wool which you can then dust off away from the workspace between sandings. I hate the stuff for guitar bodywork, it gets into pickups not to mention under your fingernails.
Bronze wool is like steel wool but is bronze. It doesn't make as much dust, also being bronze if a small speck is embedded in the wood there is no chance that it will in the future rust producing a dark spot. You can apply the wax with a piece of very fine Bronze wool working the wax into the wood. A boot brush, only used for renaissance wax, is great for the first go at polishing before moving over to flannel.
Hi Ben. I also hate wire wool for similar reasons. I started using fine Scotchbrite as an alternative. No splinters, no rust, non magnetic. Good stuff.
Dude- you gave away one of my secrets for free! That Renaissance Wax is an amazing clear hard wax (not at all cheap) and is the final step on all my clear wood finishes.
It also gets inside your phone speaker and slowly kill it. it happened to me several times. I've just recently discovered these abrasive impregnated nylon pads that do almost the same job, except that even the finest grain ones are still a bit more abrasive than #0000 liberon steel wool. They're essentially finer versions of those scotch brite green pads. I'm getting excellent results with these.
I use that brand of wax, it really is like no other, I like to do rosewood fretboards and yesterday just put it on my strings, I don't know if it's good on the wound strings, but I'm betting the plain strings will corrode much slower if at all. I also applied it as you would lubrication under the nut with a q-tip, I won't know how well it works for quite some time but I bet it will work. You know when you got those scissors out, wax them too, much less tape glue residue build up. Needless to say it's magic to get a granite plate from being sticky, same goes for steel such as a bandsaw's. Buy the big can or else it will cost much more per oz., it goes a looooooong way so don't think it's too expensive.
That sounds like a great idea! Did it end up staying off corrosion of the plain steel strings? Since you made the comment 3-ish years ago - I have to know how it worked out for you! Cheers
@@TylrVncnt I have a big tube of "Big Bends" for reducing nut friction, and whenever I have issues with the strings sticking while tuning "ping" I use that. But I know it does work on all the other things I said it would. But as for a nut lubricant, I didn't keep track and I have many guitars. Big Bends is expensive and I guess I should tape a piece of paper inside the pot cavity with notes about the brand of strings, date changed, nut lubed and if I did put wax on the strings.
Beautiful piece of work and very interesting to not only see what is happening, but also have a very clear description as to why you are doing what you are doing. Very well spoken to.
"Tiny little bits of wire wool cutting into you is not desirable." - The dude with a head tattoo that seems like it would be agonizing to me. Jokes aside, this is beautiful.
Ren Wax is the absolute shit! If you haven't discovered it yet, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it. You'll find a TON of uses for it. And don't let the price of a can scare you away. The stuff lasts FOREVER! That guitar is absolutely gorgeous!
Hi!! Thank you for you tutorials! Can I apply the wax without the wire wool, I mean can I Just skip this step and go straight to the waxing? Would the results be too different? Thank you!!!
Are the brass knuckles hanging in your shop in the background a requisite for lutherie, or rather a recommended aid for payment acquisition? Hehe. Love your videos. Thanks for posting them, I've found them invaluable.
Is this oil finish sanded level or open pore? I’m wondering, if we do leave them open and it’s not sanded completely level wouldn’t they show up as little shiny spots in flatter sheen finish?
I absolutely hate steel wool. Getting it stuck in my fingers was the worst thing while working on servicing brass instruments. But as you said, it does the job. Awesome guitar coming along however, Ben!
What kind of oil did you apply before steel wool and renaissance wax? I’m refinishing a knife handle with burl scales, and I’m thinking of using this same method. Thank you
You have a large stock of it... If you want I can take some off your hands and take that depressing stock away.. Just think of it.. Off your mind forever ;).... Great video as usual!!
