Class 20 Graham Farish Rebuild N Gauge 

Fantastic stuff! glad to here the video helped 👍

Glad its a helpful video👍 Good luck 👍

Are the pickups on your bogies mirroring each other? Each bogie should mirror each other and not be the same. Ie the pickups are different between the front and rear bogies... LH rail pickups should both go to the centre of loco, RH rail pickups should go to the front and rear sides of the loco.. hopefully this makes a bit of sense 👍

Really glad you liked it 👍, ironically after i fixed that 20 i fixed another one and it also had the phillips screws and battery box cover! Its the same pretty much as the poole type chassis's, yes i agree definitely chinas version of the poole type, then they went to the split chassis's which run alot quieter, then after that the ones we see today, shells are different though now 👍, Thought id leave the woopsie with the decoupling in the video😂

All of mine are blue tacked 👍, farish n spares do have new noses if it does end up bothering you though👍, got to love the class 20's, hopefully the video will help a bit Scott, Good luck

Yes the only downside over time would be because its such a tight interferance fit the gears will crack again in time. Drilling to just pinch the axles is enough to grip but also relieve the stress in the gears and prolong them from cracking 👍

Hi its a bit of a catch 22 situation with regards to oil on the gears. I do it but oil can attract dirt and cause issues whereby no oil would cause wear over a long long time. I would use a tiny ammount of oil personally 👍

The larger 24/25 tooth gear at the top of the bogies has to freely rotate around its axle. The 12 tooth idler gears can be press fitted onto their relevant axles however sometimes i like to drill them so they also can rotate around their axle. The 16 tooth gears have to be a press fit onto the axles the wheels are connected too, to tight a fit and the gear will be under so much pressure the gears can bind up as the gear is forced outwards causing more friction then is necessary on its neighbouring gears, also the gears will crack/split apart and wont last long, they have to be a snug fit onto the axles to allow the gear to effectively just be pushed on with your fingertips, enough pinch of the gear to rotate the shaft. So in short yes i like to make all the gears within the bogies rotate on their relevant shafts (idlers are meant to pinch their axles but this can cause premature splitting). The only exception here is the gears on the axles with the wheels as you say, these need to pinch the axles to transmit drive 👍

@@ThisWayWorksTWW Hi. Apologies for taking so long to reply. Thank you for your detailed comment, I now have 2 class 20's in bits. One is a 3pole and all brass gears, it's a little rough but I don't think it's been used very much. The other is a UK made 5 pole bought as a non runner. Most the gears are split. I have some spare 12t idler gears from an 8f which free wheel in the 8fs. The 20 has knurled idle axles so I am definitely going to relieve them a bit to stop them splitting. Good advice. Actually I am going to replace all the gears as I can see uneven wear on gears that have been meshing on split ones. The main drive gears on the actual driving wheels just slip, so I'll be ordering 4 driving axles. They are both destined for coreless upgrades anyway. Another 40 years of life :-) Thank you for taking the time to do these videos. Very very helpful Sir.

Update ... coreless motor replacement on brass gears early model ... bit fiddly, harder than converting a steam loco, but runs like watch, has been running for 8 hours about a scale 35mph on DC. The newer one, which is marked "Britain"?. Got the gears, new wheels (which are really very nice, I wonder if they work OK on a brass geared model?) ...... the bogie chassis fell apart when I took the gears and wheels out. Cracks everywhere. Cracks in the little pivot moulding as well. So ... we currently await new chassis x 2. Pickups x 2. I am determined to have two 20's running in a pair :-)

What a performance? The old brass geared one was fine. The newer one needed nearly everything. But I now have two class 20's, coreless upgrade, running fine :-)

Thats great to hear you like the videos, i hope that they help you out 👍, if you get stuck at all just ask away 👍

@@ThisWayWorksTWW Many thanks.. this bogie is same as HST ? 12 and 16 tooth gears ?

@@chuffinel7676 yes same bogie as on the HST's that have a driven front and rear bogie. Just the bogie frames are different on the class 20 vs the HST. Graham Farish did a HST with just the rear bogies driven and those bogies are different

@@chuffinel7676 The GNER HST i fixed in a previous video has the same bogie type as the class 20 i show in this video 👍 both HST and class 20 yes ate 12 and 16 tooth geared 👍

@@ThisWayWorksTWW Thanks, yes my HST is the same as your GNER version, just a different livery. The problem with mine is that one of the locating pins has broke off that holds the contacts on to the inner chassis part. I have ordered it from Farish 'n' spares, plus all new contacts, I am unsure if i have gear issues, but after seeing this video I am ordering them too, may as well do the lot in one go. Have the whole thing with new parts. Thanks again.

Yes you can. Il be sure to film one if i do it, i have done it twice allready so it is possible, the decoder can live where the battery box vois is underneath 👍

@@ThisWayWorksTWW can you dcc mine? 😅