Classic B13 Sentra SE-R Breakdown - Project Car Stories 

Nissan is a Japan car

Tsuru

Rear suspension isn’t the same

​@@marcuskelley9591 you don't say?!

​@@JNAMOTORSPORTS Nissan Tsuru was basically a facelifted original B13 base Sentra. Nissan essentially took the base 1992 Sentra and produced it until 2017 with a facelift.

B15 either had an SR that didn’t rev… Or didn’t have an SR. FAIL. :)

@@hotshtsr20 I liked the QR25DE from the se-r or spec-v , sure it had its issue but it was capable.

I owned a p10 g20t and b15 specv. Preferred the b15 . Loved the torque, short geared tranny and LSD from the b15.

@@warracer03 compared to the 7500rpm SR20, the QR was a bit of a wet splat. Torque was nice, but other than 1-3000rpm, not noticeably more than the SR. Open deck meant any boost was head gasket failures, where idiots like me pushed well over 400whp on completely stock SR20s ($300 at the JDM importers to boot!) with just cams, fuel and big turbo setups. I’ve owned P10s (including the grey one in the background), B15, B14 and driven lots of B13s. B14 didn’t quite have the B13’s playful handling, but was considerably lighter and more tossable than a B15.

B14 is much better than the b15 imo 😊

SR16ve featured the n1 high profile lift cams the SR20 cams weren't so aggressive

Maxima rear end for the us with the 200sx b14, not that bad just tall but a sporty soft, still very Nissan, the b15 was gross 🤢

Feal is the best suspension for the chassis.

@@motoiq my only regret is that while japan had the gti/gti-r for b13 in jdm market there was no b13 coupe

@@motoiq there is also a sr16ve n1 spec engine

@@motoiq love the fact that u have the facelifted nissan sunny gts front bumper

How is Tevs doing?

@@motoiq doin great in his car shop. Lots of customers especially nissan enthusiasts. A very well known, respected car lover and mechanic here. 🙂

That's great, we fell out of touch and was hoping he would return one day,

@@motoiq for sure he will be reading this. and for sure he misses you guys out there and the car scene 😉

He used to own it.

@@motoiq whoever bought has a premier example of that year SR-5. As nice as that green original 73 out there in LA also.

The rarest header.

In the USA unfortunately, but in Mexico or Chile they are bargain and everywhere. You can at least import almost the whole car as spare parts from Mexico.

Just high quality synthetic.

@MotoIQ thanks for the reply, friend. If I may be so bold to ask which oil brand and viscocity you use? If you my answer off course(sponsors are sensitve rightfully so) You guys with (racing/engineering) background, I always appreciate info and advice.(BTW long time fan Moto IQ) Would appreciate it if you could guide and recommend oil for N/A sr20 vvl circuit racing. In my country, choices are limited in the 10w60 range to -Motul 10w60 x8100 -Petronas Racer Synthuim 10w60 -Liquid Moly synthoil Race 10w60 -Castrol Edge 10w60 on full synthetics -Revanol 10w60 Track Racers here mostly use Shell 15w40 Diesel oil cause they get good wear protection for much more affordable price(can swap oil after every race affordably)probably cause of the high Zinc content 1300ppm vs the above mentioned oils which by law are all the 800'sppm but have off course much thicker film to protect. We do not have the fancy US and Australian High Zinc oils. Accept Redline and Royal purple, but they are literally 2.5times the price even 2 times more expensive than Motul Appologies for the long build-up. With the affordable abovementioned 10w60 synthetics, is it advisable to boost the additive package with zinc additive?(e.g, Redline Break in oil additive ,luckily only product affordable from Redline range) Or boost with Liquid Moly Mos2(mobyluim)?, luckily very affordable. Most US and Australian race oils have very high moly and phosphorus/zinc over the 2000s Is it advisable to add mobyluim(Liquid Moly mos2) or Red Line Break in Fluid to 10w60 with the low zinc (800's ppm range) to boost oil additive package. Both? or just one of the two? We in southern Hemisphere(very hot in summers here over 100 fahrenheit regularly in spring and summer) The old school race v8 guys here by us use 20w50 Revanol (Break in oil) as a race oil (2500ppm Zinc/Phosphorous) is mineral oil and very affordable with tremendous results flat tappet cam race v8's. But afraid the 20w to thick for an SR20 vvl. Must mention is high in Phesherous/Zinc but has no cleaning agents and no friction modifier(MOS2) but they swap after every race meet(v8 racers believe uilimate cheat code here and believe to be best even the high quality full synthetic European oils, as thy bulletproof the flat tappet camshaft with stiff springs) We've had guys running on high milage 25w60 Shell mineral oil on Drag turbo SR20's with very good results I must mention. But they run for short amounts I trust high viscocity synthetics better on hot track days? Advice would be greatly appreciated your recommended path you would choose on hot climate Track SR20 vvl N/A with our limited choices here in my country.

Any good 15w50 synthetic. All of the brands you mentioned would apply. Very early SR's would make HLSA noise with thicker oil but it was not harmful, just annoying.

@MotoIQ thanks for reply.

I've been working on a g20

I would kill for a 1993 Nx2000. I just figure I will have to pay way up.

Hated the NX2000

@@blakelip3 Uglier car for sure, but had better brakes and was a better handling platform.

@@cjburn2758 never seen the wagon versions but those ugly taillights always stood out that’s how I remember that car lol