@@318willrun first part. Turned 318 over by hand. Only have old battery so I charged it a bit enough to turn on dome light but not enough to turn motor over. Charging it overnight to try again tomorrow. Hoping it works so I can move onto fuel. Thanks for the inspiration.
Great video! Every 5 to 7 years I could shoot a "will it run" for my brother in law's old IH tractor. Always needs the points cleaned. Once I had to pull the carb apart, this year, the gas lines rotted off. I'm always amazed it even turns over. Been doing this for like 30 years, thing runs great, hits on all 6. 🤣
Tim is a true mechanic with good advice and helpful content he has a video for just about anything you may need help with, and the only person i know who can make a stock 318 with over 100k miles run in the 12's, LOL God-bless and thank you for your channel sir
Thanks for the kind words. I hope to put out enough videos to help the confidence of some folks so that they go and give something a try. Each day is a blessing from God!!
Your channel is a God-send, as a newbie to fixing on classic cars I truly appreciate how you break it down for someone like myself with very limited knowledge. I have a 74 dart I’m trying to restore and do as much of the work myself as possible. I’m just now finding your channel and you Sir have a new subscriber.
Great video! Great advice and tips! 👍 Got me to thinking too, my whole life has been full of will it runs! Farm tractor's, lawn mower's, chain saws, motor cycles and to cars and trucks. I think my first will it run was in 1973 on a Cox 049 engine and I had to replace the glow plug! I can still smell the nitro methane!😊👍
Will it run was a hobby in the late 80s, early 90s for me and my friends, what a great time! Anyone can do it.We did have Haynes and Chilton's manual's!
You gave a very descriptive how-to on getting an old engine to start. The next level would be how to hook up a remote start trigger if there was no key, testing the coil and wire junctions with a multimeter, etc., but this will help SOMEBODY for sure as we've ALL had to start from scratch and learn from our mistakes... I often say that if we learn from our mistakes, I ought to be a genius by now! Lol! Keep up the great work!
Growing up in the 60's outside of Cleveland near Lake Erie. In the winter when it was 10-20 below. It was always the thought when you went out in the morning. Will It run !!!! Good video, lots of points to check !! 👍
@@318willrunIt always seemed like thats when I had to change the starters. Dark, snowing laying in the snow busting knuckles swapping an ice cold starter. And using either to get it to fire. Lol !!! You do what you gotta do to get it to fire 👍 Good stuff Tim, thx
Awesome awesome video I love it. I’m actually gonna be pulling the 318 with a manual, three speed and putting in a 727 behind it all dirty and greasy. I love it. The transmission was rebuilt off of craigslist lol.
Of all the cars that I made run at the junkyard you make me laugh....now remember this is when you could bring your kids with you to the junkyard.. only one that didn't run right... was a 383 mopar that ran but had a broken con rod that made a hell of a noise when it ran! 😂 plenty of times I just put in a battery and made them run I remember an old dodge pickup the keys were still in it and sure enough I got in it cranked over and started! Slant six!...one of my best memories is taking a 351w out of a van and putting it in my buddy's 73 Ford F250 at the junkyard in a day and he drove it home... So yeah I'd say I know the difference from fuel injection and carburetor 😂😂😂😂 and TBI vs TPI.... Not to mention DI direct injection.....
If you have not done this before, it might be a good idea to have a friend, brother or a random car guy to help. usually a car guy will help you gladly because there is a challenge included. At least i would. Great vid bro.
Quality condensers last but are a replacement part. We used to change points plugs and condenser 2 times a year. That was before electronic ignition. Cheap ones may not last a week.
I tried one of those ready to run distributors on my magnum in the 55 and the car would act like you were cycling the key on and off while it was running. On off on off on off then press the gas it would die! I Gave it to my uncle to mess with
yes, the one in the video was in the Grey Van when we bought it. Ran ok, but not what I wanted. Makes a great spare or very useable for getting a car running though!
Is there a way to prime the oiling system on a la mopar, without removing the the distributor. Mopars you have to pull the gear under the distributor to get to the oil drive rod hole, not easy. Is pushing oil back down the sensor hole a bad idea?
Do you think oil left in the crankcase of an engine will keep it from developing surface rust in the cylinder walls if left unturned for a number of months or few years?
Depends on if moisture gets access to the cylinders. No air cleaner can be part of the problem. If it's going to sit for a long time, I like to loosen all the rockers to shut the valves because it's fast and effective.
Is it an aluminum intake?? If so, check to see if it's warped. Are you using just the tin gasket or the side gaskets as well? If only the tin, then use the side gaskets (or even 2, one on each side of the tin). I use RTV on the corners/china walls, Indian Head shellac around the ports.
Maby I should add this to my precious message I sent asking about the lol pressure on my new rebuilt 318 what in your opinion would you consider too low of a oil preasure at operating temperature I'm gear idling an in park idling
I think the chitons manual said the oil light is triggered at 4 psi. My 88 did , I was using a individual pressure gauge. If 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Would 6 be right at 600?
@318willrun mine off idle of say 1200 rpm shows anywhere from 45 to 60 PSI it jumps up instantly I meanas soon as u touch throttle it spikes upwards no problem
Can you help me out here? I've got a 72 b100 that has sat for a few years.. the carb was rebuilt before it sat and it ran pretty dang good before then. I recently got it "running" again. Fresh fuel filter, pumping from a Jerry can. Dist cap/rotor is new, pretty sure my pump diaphragm is shot and leaking fuel into oil but it still pumps. I took out idle screws and shot brake cleaner then compressed air in. It starts and idles instantly when cold, but dies on its on after I disengage the fast idle. If I manage to keep it idling, it dies instantly when I put it in gear. Question is what do I attack next? Should I start with fuel pump? Take carb off and clean it? I ran some reallllllyy crappy stuff from the tank without realizing it before all of this.
I would 100% not let the fuel pump leak or pump into the oil. I've seen engines blow a hole in the block from that. Start with the fuel pump and a fresh oil change.
But also, am I correct in thi king that a failing fuel pump would be a very good cause of fuel in oil? The bottom end of the pump is soaked in gas so im pretty sure it's shot.. after replacing that though, start with a carb cleqn??
Way to much information for the average beginner. Should just start with one kind of older car with carb., fuel pump, dist., cap, rotor inside with points, radiator, turnover the engine, spark plugs with spark plug wires etc. Way to many items to get the beginner involved in. Food for thought. That's all.
That's why there is a pause on video. It's finaly a full "WHAT DO DO AND WHAT TO CHECK" from a long time sitting or even some sudden stop for anyone. I loved it.
Hey there Mr.318 will run git a question as you know i just recently got my 318 la block back from machine shop it was in a 83 ram van like your black van anyways i put it back together plasti guaged everything it was a turned crankshaft kit thst came withmain an rod bearings bored 0.030 over shaved heads a lunati.voodoo camshafts nothing radical just a enough lift to help low end torque anyways i git it back in the van got it running let me ask you what do you feel a new build such as thst the oil preasure should be after engine is at operating temperature and engine in gear idling i put 16 ounces of Lucas brwke in additive (zinc) additive and fram 10w30 conventional motor oil i wasnt crazy about using advance auto brand fram oil but here in the coal field an logging country you cant find conventional oil anymore if my mind serves me correctly it was a high volume pump but judt incase it wasnt and you feel there's a difference send me what yiu ferl oil preasure should be hot idking in gear wth standsrd pump and with a high volume pump i was a milling but cant remember if high volume or not thanks
