CLASSIC FORD F150 RESTORATION PART 2, Replacing Spark Plugs on a Classic Ford F-150, Old Ford F-150 

You're supposed to pull the plugs first before doing anything, oil the cylinders, and then spin it over by hand. Then you change the oil, spin the engine with the starter to get everything lubricated. Once you've done that, you can try to start it. You immediately caused damage to a bunch of the internal rotating assembly and cylinders when you spun it over dry after sitting for 20 years.

Must say these are going for 5-8k with 100k + miles. Not sure how much you’re willing to put into it but these old fords are increasing in value

I own a 91 XLT Lariat with well over 300k on it (probably). I paid $1,000 for it almost 7 years ago, and have been driving it the whole time. That straight six would be well worth a rebuild. You'd have something reliable for a long time.

Gotta hold throttle wide open for a compression test, also need to lube cylinder walls, after sitting so many years.

You should take it to a mechanic.

My 88 f350 runs wonderfully. I did have to put a new clutch in last year, though. Old fords have never done me wrong.

OK guys back to basics. Take off the valve cover, hand crank the engine over and see if the valve train and valves are actually moving - they have to open and fully close to produce compression. Next, put a squirt or two of oil ( your choice of what oil or solvent) into the spark plug holes and turn the engine over - do it three times. I used 10 weight, brake clean and or machine oil. This might allow the rings to free up enough to reseat themselves. Take another compression reading. There are other methods. Bring #1 up to top dead center and put an air adapter into the spark plug hole. Start with 10 PSI and increase by 10 PSI until you can hear air escaping. Leaking intake valve - you can hear the air coming out the air intake. Exhaust - from the tail pipe. Hear it from the crankcase vent - very bad. If it fails - Al least pull the head just for a lookie see.

See. Listen this is why i understand SBC and LS guys. Sturdy reliable power. Easy ti work on. I get it. But I still really like those old I6's. But it really is luck of the draw sometimes. Their either shot or you get the good ones that can run with no oil, low compression, and dead cyclinders. Head gasket jobs aren't too bad.. mostly.

i’ll take it for free 😁😂

Just rebuild motor. Truck it self is good.

Did you add a little oil to each cylinder? Compression will come up. Or check the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets.

My bricknose Ford have both been great, 460 has all the power in the world and 300 doesn't but gets by.

She’s not done yet! Stay tuned!?🤔

I dont think it was DOA due too the compression test.... its been sitting for what 20 years? The Rings, seals and/or valves may lack proper lub or may have frozen. You checked the oil and no water (so you didn't note) so the piston walls and water jackets ia suggested they are good. (not cracked) ... your radiator check confirms that too! but frozen rings would not matter as the 89 is EFI, as it does Not have a carb. Thus the concern for vacuum isn't so much of a issue at this point... but is in the later fix-me todo list if it is able too hit a lick. I would resist the urge and not have keyed it on before removed all the old gas and added a few gallons of good new gas. (Did all the fuel pumps low/high pressure pumps hum too life? Pump up then quit like normal?) You might just have bummed the fuel injectors with the bad 20 old liquid gunk gas. Also (its an EFI) so blow out and back air flush all the fuel lines back too the high pressure EFI pump at the least... (depending on model and setup "2 gas-tanks" there may be 3 EFI pumps. One low pressure in each tanks and then the high pressure pump under the drivers side,... Under the outside, channel . A new fuel filter is essential.... (or back air flush the old filter too save some bucks). Also blow out all of the gas lines (returns as well) ...down too the high press pump at least. You would need too remove the return fuel pressure regulator line first. (at the back of the EFI fuel rail) on the return end. (That little thingy holds back 90 lb PIS of gas pressure). mechanical! Good try with the intake Mr.magic engine gas/either spray........but (Too Soon if you didnt flush the gas lines first) ! Bad call as you sprayed with the MAS in the way... that could have crapped it out very easily. (They cost some $$) its Possible that it would not start or get gas via the fuel pump. The fuse, f- pump motor, Fuel filter, or maybe the fuel pump relay is bad or frozen clogged with bad gas. The Relay is under the hood near the fuse box under the hood. A tap with a screwdriver may jog it too actuate with key on. Remember you tried too crank it before fusing and adding new fuel?. Distracte by those loud muffler wannabees! lol BTW- You never noted if you checked any of the fuses, under the dash or under the hood. (hint hint) Ummm- Distributor cap, roter, and wires, just might help if it hits. But the wire investment can wait till you get it too hit. My next step would be the MAS (Mass Air-Flow sensor) it must be cleaned with a special spray cleaner. My last thought new Gas, Air filter and oil Filters with a decent cheap oil. If it hits, It will be and act like a pre-renewal oil flush too the system. might even work out some old trash, carbons, sludge, etc. When you crank it, the old oil may ruin the rubber/Teflon oil pump propeller. So maybe an oil pressure sender or gauge (aftermarket). if it goes... be prepared too drop the oil pan or give up! If it hits, run it soft for a while but make sure it does not overheat. Sure you would need new belts if it makes it that far. The intake manifold gasket is a very thin card board type gasket.... its width is about 1/8 inch and thickness of about 0.08 (its thin). too make matter worse no gasket sealer like indian head laquer or permetx silicone like caulk. (Just a small sheet of cardboard gasket .... stuff!!!!!) The intake is alum and the block is cast. When it heats/expands and cools/shrinks, the two different metals expand and contract at different rates and levels. Thus a intake gasket is prone too leaks. The manifold leak can effect idle speeds and rpms too act radically due too various fluxuations in air flows too oxygen /fuel ratio sensor and control. 1989 have a catalytic converter.. it may be clogged due too sitting but doubt it. You started out great coming out the gate, but stumbled and broke stride later on. you did a spotty job thinking it would crank up like magic. maybe next time check the timing and spark intensity visual check with a plug wire and extra spark plug... just lay it loose grounded too the block. (leave all new plugs in the heads... or crack/loosen them all some as to relive the compression.. That will help the: Old starter.(amazing!) help prime the oil pump and pump up new oils too the heads. Which in turn will help lub the valve seals, push rods and all other. Over all good try! But you might have junked a saver good truck. as of Nov 2023 My 1989 still runs fine. No rebuilds! I would buy an engine with a carb, coil, n points over any ECM ("crap") engines any day of the week. just for the trade off.... I would also gladly suffer the lessor 1.2 MPG over an ECM-EFI every time.

Throw a 460 in it

I hope you realise everything in that engine is stuck from sitting, valves and rings are stuck. We don’t have mystery oil in Australia, but other RU-vid’s swear by it, and that little bit of spray all the way down the intake tubes would do nothing. Mystery oil it up, let it sit, try it again. At 80,000 miles, it’s not done for. I don’t watch 6 cyl videos, but I did yours because of the body

Is it for sale?

Did you at least tear it down to visually inspect?

Boat Anchor

I'm going to guess it's the head gasket giving you the bad compression readings.

Part it out , looks like the panels are in good shape .

You’re buying them for like $500 though. Buy a $2000 one and see how that goes.

why don't you restore it like you originally intended to, then see if it's still junk

Replace the engine