Classic Ninja 250 valve adjustment procedure tutorial 

Great Video. While you can *check* the valve clearances without removing the radiator, you will need to remove it to adjust the 4 exhaust valves (they are well hidden) at the very front of the cams which require you to stick your head where the radiator is to find them. With the exhaust valves its easiest to stick the feeler gauge under the cam lobes from out to in rather than the other way. For the sake of 5 extra minutes if you've already removed the radiator bolts it makes it so much easier and the bike could do with 2L of new coolant. For the rest of the world that use metric: Intake valves should be set between 0.08mm-0.13mm, Exhaust 0.11-0.16mm. Settings them at the looser end will give you more torque down low, better reliability, and smoother idle at the expense of slightly less top and increased valve train noise. While your at it its a good time to clean the air-filter with some dishwashing liquid and re-oil it, change the sparks plugs and inspect the fuel filter if fitted. With your coils: Red positive leads are always on the bottom, black (left)/green(right) are on the top. Once your done make sure you check the neutral light still works, top up the coolant and let it warm up, watch the temp gauge go up and ensure the radiator fan kicks in before you put the fairings back on as its easy to miss a wire.

Thanks for the video. My first time doing this procedure, and I discovered you don't need to remove the radiator. Remove the long thru bolt and the bolts holding the coils on. Pull the whole assembly forward. Remove the valve cover from the right side of the bike.

Your the best! Im @ 20000 miles. My bikes sluggish. Im no newbie with mechanical work but my confidence is much better after watching this!

Thanks for the video !! . That bike looks super clean 🧼 and shiny !!

Great Vid! Wish I saw this before bringing it to a shop!

finger tighten the adjuster screw. hold it in place with the screwdriver WHILE you tighten the nut with and Open End Wrench.. Now, recheck the clearance with the feeler gauge. It is quite common for the adjustment to change during the tightening of the nut. Your job is to develop the skill to hold the screw still while tightening the nut with an end wrench. You cannot tighten the nut with a socket,yet !.. Also.. avoid over tightening the nut.. this damages the thread, and after that.. it will always want to change the adjustment as you tighten. Learn what 12 ft lbs feels like. snug it up with the open end wrench.. and if you have a torque wrench ( $10 now at harbor freight no excuse to not have one) double check the tightness with the torque wrench and then check the clearance again ! Once you learn to do this.. it is easy. Going slightly loose ( upper end of the specified range) is smart, because the valves are likely to tighten over time, and then they will burn if too tight. Too loose is noisey and really loose it wont run well.

thanks man! good video

so they need hydraulic valves....how often does this need done?

Thanks for the video

Hi there, what are the valve adjustment specs Intake and Exhaust for Kawasaki Eliminator 250 ?

So both it 5 thousands of a inch ?

So is it just the one nut and adjuster per valve set for both exhaust and intake?

Removing the fairings, and putting them back on is not that easy. looking for that video.

Never synch your carbs until after you have your valves, timing, and plug gap set correctly !