WOOOOO!!!! I have been working on my Grandpas 1971 VW after inheriting it 3rd generation a few months ago. Hadn't got it running, but I knew it was something in the fuel system. After using this video (I know very little about cars) I finally got it running today! WOOOOHOOO!!! Thanks so much for putting such good videos on youtube - You're helping keep these awesome cars on the road!
Hey Chris, just wanted to say thanks for all the great videos. We just bought our 62 Beetle so we are in the learning mode. Great instruction you've been providing.
Great video. When it come to the "s" wrench, I had to modify one I got at Harbor Freight, because the head was too thick to fit around the back nut. This is on a 1973 standard beetle. I ground it down until it was thin enough to fit between the tube the carb attaches too
Great video, very helpful! I am new to working on Classic VW and am having a blast with it. I own a 1966 with a chopped 1956 top, originally built by Airkewld. I bought this from a guy doing a "quick flip" and have spent the last month fixing all of the issues. One of the issues was a rough idle and it would die at a stoplight. I watched this video one time and was able to completely clean out the carb, I also filed and re-gapped the points. The car now runs and idles perfect, no more dying and much more responsive. Thank you for sharing this video!
Great video. I bought a 63 beetle that sadly has an Empi carb on it. The car sat for over a year and ran ok for a while, then the fuel pump went out. Replaced that, now the carb is acting like it is possessed. It starts and runs great sometimes, other times not. Sometimes I have to pump the accelerator to keep it running, other times not. I am considering just replacing the carb, but options are limited in the availability of replacement carbs.
Hey Chris. Love these videos! My 69 Beetle was running rough and gas was running down the carb. Assuming stuck float maybe? Perhaps this cleaning will help? Thanks.
is it possible that the brass of that bigger ball had to tap the pin too deep? can it sink as deep as it goes or does it have to be level with the deck? can it prevent the fuel pump or the ball from working? Are those two balls for the acceleration pump? very good tutorial video you have! weather
Hi can you help in this vid when i do my throttle valve it will not pump the fuel out. i have stripped it all i think and cleaned it. why am i not getting the fuel up?
Chris...following your express clean carburetor video and noticed the slotted head on the vertical Air Correction Screw/Jet was damaged and cannot back it out of the carb body - afraid of digging what's left of the head off. Any tricks of the trade on removing that jet for cleaning - the tip for removing the bowl plug with the tail light screw worked great! Thanks
Chris, Thanks for the informative video which I followed with a rebuild kit on my 30 PICT-1. My 65 starts great when the choke is closed. Humms right along as it warms up. When the choke is full open it chokes, stalls, and dies. I can hold the accelerator arm into the higher RPMs and it sounds great. It just wont idle when warmed up for anything. One mechanic suggested when I soaked the scum off it opened up vacuum leak at the throttle shaft and I need a new carb. Walking around the VW swap meets seems like everyone has 2 or 3 old carbs to sell. What do you think?
Fred Tschirgi - Get a vacuum gauge, it's cheaper and more useful in the long run, than blindly trow parts into the car without certainty. BTW Tip is valid either for a 60 years old Bug or a modern car or bike just out of the showroom. All of them are still glorified air pumps. LOL ;-) On this particular case I would smear a bit of grease on both sides of the butterfly shaft, just enough to temporarily seal any eventual leaks. Them run test before condemning the part. ;-)
Hello my friend i woulk like to ask if how many minutes does a 1 liter takes on a idle mode,because my carburator right now have a problem it only takes 20minutes to consume 1 liter of gasoline on idle mode.
Chris - love your videos. Question: if you switch the stock oil bath air filter with a paper element one, what do you do with the vacuum hose under the carb that used to go to the top of the oil bath?
@@classicvwbugs don't know what you call this piece - it's literally the piece that the carb is mounted on top of with the two bolts. I always call it the throat - it's where the fuel-air mix drops down into directly underneath the carb butterfly. There is a vacuum port about 1" below the carb mount on this "throat" (it points directly to the left if you are looking at the engine from the rear) that is clearly designed to take a vacuum hose and go somewhere. When I got the car, it was connected to one of the two vacuum ports on top of the oil bath air filter. Wish I could give you a pic - damn RU-vid.
How is this different from dropping the two half's in carb cleaner? Letting them soak. I do that and blow the ports out with carb cleaner. This looks more thorough, of course, just curious how much better it is -- and I fear losing all those bearing & screw's.
Where can I buy the little faucet looking piece and the little bb I've looked everywhere and can't find a replacement I didn't loose them I took it apart and they weren't in there
Hey Chris great video I’ve got the same carb on my bus and it’s not letting anything through “the faucet” My guess is those B.B’s are clogged but those brass plugs won’t come out for me any suggestions? I cleaned it once and had it flowing but when I took it apart recently I saw what looked like calcium buildup in the diaphragm I’m assuming it’s built up in the faucet tubes as well
Chris Vallone it worked! I’ve got gas flow and even got the engine to fire! Thanks so much! That’s the first time in 40 years!! I’ve got no idea how to set the idle though and idk why but I think it may be leaking out of the accelerator pivot I’m thinking the needle/seat isn’t closing cause it’ll keep slurping the gas I give it until it’s dripping on the engine
Hi there. Nice vid! I was working on a 1964 Ghia - it's my mother's car and I don't have any info in front of me - but I was curious about what you thought of this problem. I can get the car to idle sitting in neutral and it'll idle as long as I let it - but once I start to drive the car in gear - with the clutch in - it'll stall out. But only when I have it moving and in gear. I'm basically popping the clutch to get it running while I'm making turns and whatnot. I can think of a few things but the sitting in place in neutral and constant idle working - has me confused. Any ideas?
I bought a Solex carb for my beetle Followed this video and removed all parts, cleaned them. Removed the check balls, cleaned and replaced. So far so good thanks to this video I discovered a bolt and nut in a hole near the lower butterfly. No idea what it does. I removed the bolt for cleaning. The hole is not threaded and goes right into the lower body of the carb next to the lower butterfly. The bolt does not seem to do anything other than block the hole. Does anyone know what is supposed to be there? I need help
I have a solex h30 31 pict on my rail buggy. has a horrible dead spot right off idle. I noticed it doesn't spray fuel out the tube unless you pump the throttle 3 or 4 times. do u think a simple clean as yall done could cure this problem? it idles beautiful and runs great but hits that dead spot off idle and going thru the gears. But once your going thru the gears you can just give it more gas and itll come out the dead spot. thanks for your input.
i am having a problem with my bug. i was told its a carb problem. when i come to a stop it sounds like it wants to stall and some times it does. im not sure if i adjusted the carb right or put it on right. im not a machanic and just learning wile i go. is there any advice you can give on putting a carb on and properly adjusting it. thanks for ur time.
Chris Vallone I have a 71 vw and the carb it's missing the jet that you pull out on the 1:14 and when I take off from a stop sign I have to press the accelerator many times or it will die on me...you think thats the problem?
Idle mixture screw 5,5-6 turns out, did i hear that correctly? Trying to get the correct settings for my new 30 pict - 1 carb hooked up on a 1500 engine. Read somewhere today that 1,25-1,5 turns was correct so being a bit confused
I did everything as you did, my only problem was i could not get out the one large bb that you used tail light screw to remove. I also hit down further then it was originally , my question is, is that okay? I was not able to remove it, therefore couldn't clean it and also moved it further down. Eveything else was done correctly, will i be okay?
+Chris Vallone the large bb. where he uses the tail light screw to lift it up, once it's lifted the BB rolls out. I put the carb back on , and it's working fine, thanks
hi Chris, I have a Volkswagen Beetle which I recently put a new carburetor on I took it to a professional to have it adjusted and about a month later it started missing and it wasn't getting the correct amount of fuel, I took it back to the professional and he told me the fuel filter needs replaced, what do you think
Blake Graham - For goodness sake. A fuel filter for these cars cost pennies. Are usually transparent (so can be easily checked) and on top clog fairly easy due to: Small size, tank full of decades of "things" floating in there and even rust from the tank itself... So what's the doubt about spending less than 5 minutes to change it? ;-)
That's not an accelerator solenoid, it's a fuel cut-off solenoid that shuts off the fuel when the key is turned off. This stops a hot engine running on.
If your stock carb is a 34 pict 3 stay with it. The 30 pict 1 will not only need the adapter but also need bigger jets and still won't even put out as much power as the stock 34 pict 3. I have a '74 standard and I've had both types on it, I speak from experience.
KG7YTS - Sure it is, all depends on time/money/will. If it's a few gaskets/jets job, no worries. If it's a major overhaul (ex. butterfly shaft leakage) than might be easier/faster to simply replace it. With this said I never HAD to put a new carburetor. Unless it's physically broken/cracked. Can always be revived. ;-)
Over the last fifty three years I have found that so many of these Solex carburetors have lousy idle characteristics. Terrible compared to American car carburetors. Wet days bring out the worst problems where the engine won't idle at all. Other times it seems like there could be dirt in the idle circuit, so many times over the years I have removed the idle mixture screws, blew air in the circuit and readjusted the screws while idling but hardly ever get good results. In American cars this works quite often but not these lousy Solex carbs. What I am hoping to hear from someone is a modification to these VW carbs. that will cure this idle trouble. Cleaning is not the cure. I have even had this idle problem show up on several brand new China made carbs for VW cars and even with new manifolds that should not be carbon plugged. Perhaps there is an idle jet that should changed for a bigger one. Remember, normal common carburetor maintenance and repair is just not the answer to this highly common problem. Any ideas? Thanks.
Stay German whenever possible best advice if you need replacement. I had an old 28 pict on a dual port that was losing fuel out the throttle plate bushings. I got sold some empi 38 egas hated it. Made yet another mistake bought chinese 34 pict 3 clone, straight up junk. Now looking for German and they are asking 400.00 insanity!!