TOP 7 Reasons your Classic VW Beetle BuG Hesitates, Stalls, or CHOKES on Acceleration

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In this video, we look at the top 7 seasons why your Vintage Classic VW Beetle Bug will hesitate. stall, choke, on acceleration.
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Комментарии : 325

@mawrmcmahan 2 года назад

1. Carburetor / Distributor Combination 1:02 2. Accelerator Pump 2:29 3. Side Jet(s) 3:47 4. Automatic Choke 4:47 5. Junk Within Jets 6:46 6. Vacuum Leak 8:49 7. Electrical Components 10:09

@devitafilms6455 3 года назад

That green beetle behind you is a Beauty.

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Yes my friend Joe's 54 Oval Rag.

@bobsbarnworkshop 3 месяца назад

Another great way to check for vacuum leaks is to use a propane torch unlit but turned on and move the nozzle close to all the gaskets and fittings listening for the engine to speed up. Not messy either!

@williamwhite6902 3 года назад

Thank you! I've been watching your videos for years always helpful

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

thank you!

@michaelnewbury7869 3 года назад

Just wanted to say thanks for the video! A lot a good information here! I always get something out of your vids. Thank you

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

thank you for watching.

@FunFun-tv7gq 3 года назад

Great informative video as usual. Thank a lot Chris from Melbourne, Australia

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

you are welcome!

@dunlapmichaell 9 месяцев назад

Great video! One of the best on things to think about when things just aren't right.

@j.k.salser499 3 года назад

You hit the nail on the head wit h your Number 1 discussion point--having the correct combination of Distributor and Carburetor. Just because something will fit into the space means nothing! Engineers went to a LOT of trouble to pair these two items which we commonly seem bent to tinker with! Thanks, Chris! jay

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

You bet Jay, thanks for the comment.

@angelvelez4091 3 года назад

Thank you for your videos. Enjoy them all.

@tecate9408 2 года назад

Good stuff! Had a serious vacuum leak. Previous owner did not lock tile screws in offset plate and was really loose. Got it tightened up but I think a rebuild is in order.

@jasonhastings2070 Год назад

Thank you for your videos they have helped me so much with my 68 convertible

@jr.classics6190 Год назад

Great Video Chris.. I just purchased a 58 Beetle.. it was running great, until a week ago, i noticed it began to shut off on me as i approached a stop... it could be anything that you mentioned in this Video.. Thank you again. I'm always learning something new from all your Videos.. Awesome 👌

@philharrison1297 3 года назад

very well simply explained and thank you .. dead spot in 2nd sorted

@estilholliday5546 3 года назад

Also with the 34pict3 and 009 dizzy combo, blocking off the hole in the lower butterfly plate will help with that flat spot.

@Nick_Catania 3 года назад

Great info! Thanks Chris! Some oil baths have pre-heat to help warm up the carb faster. Finding an original oil bath air cleaner is a good idea. The other thing I can think of is that some setups have a fuel pressure regulator. If set incorrectly could cause hesitation, stall, etc.

@soggz4246 Год назад

Great vid. Also, don’t forget the O rings on the mix screw, idle jet and air mix jut.👍🏾🛠🇬🇧

@normblais7527 2 месяца назад

🇨🇦 been working on VW for many years, but sometimes you just need some reminders. Thanks for getting right to the point no pun intended. I opened up my 27.5 main jet and made sure my Excelerator pump faucet had a good stream, and all my boogie-woogie came back, so thanks PS I am running a Venturi vacuum distributor. I also remove my electronic ignition and installed a good set of points and the needle on my vacuum gauge is much more steady, go figure.👍

@SimiNelsonFamily 2 года назад

I drive my bug regularly and have had to clean jets and even change jet sizes depending on where I buy fuel. The bug does not like cheaper fuel with higher ethanol levels. So, I've tried to be more consistent on where I fill up with quality fuel. Ignition timing is pretty critical also in keeping the bug running and accelerating smoothly.

@JMKGarage 2 года назад

Good information shared here 👍

@streetergary 3 года назад

Also a plugged heat riser will cause the engine to stumble. this requires the intake manifold be removed and the carbon be cleaned out of the heat riser tube. Several methods are available but what i used to do was to poke a stiff wire into it to get a hole going. load it with oxygen gas, then light it off. this burns all the carbon out and allows proper heating of the tube to vaporize the fuel. Additionally, if someone has removed the cooling fins and thermostat from the car, it runs far too cool and will hesitate also. one other thing to mention, is that the 34 PICT-3 carburetor carried a 127.5 main metering jet. The carb has a 26 mm throat. It may be possible that putting a larger jet, such as a 130 or 132 will cure the trouble. The smaller jets were used for smog control. I hope this helps

@kevinmc5249 3 года назад

Great information, thanks!

@jillianvanliew 3 года назад

Great video-thanks.

@lonniedeckermusic 15 дней назад

What a great explainer. Thanks for this vid.

@jonathanfrank1073 3 года назад

Great video, but as an owner of a ghia and not a mechanic at all, it reminds me that I saw a video a few years ago about putting a Subaru engine in one....and it makes me wanna look up how much that would cost. These little engines are very cool creations and I love the sound of them running, but I’m starting to think it takes a mechanic to own one and not be constantly frustrated and disappointed by the car. (Obviously mine has been pissing me off lately - 🙄)

@lukefraser2799 2 года назад

Hi rob i have many people over here in Australia they all buy cheap Chinese 009,s I have found on this combo even good quality 009 dist . I have regraded them and I have no problem. It is a old method but if you have someone who can do it properly it works great . Even with all Chinese or cheap 34 pict 3 carb and 009 dizzy takes all the problems away . Done this for many yrs now

@Gregoryprater 2 месяца назад

I used an .009 distributor with a 34 pic 3 carburetor on my 1974 Beetle 1600cc engine. Had the flat spot when accelerating, so I advanced my timing from 7 1/2 degrees before TDC to 9 degrees before TDC and it runs smooth and doesn’t run hot. I always stay below 10 degrees before TDC when timing my bug and have good results.

@bparkinson1234 3 года назад

Nice job Chris... thanks

@brianchisnell1548 3 года назад

Really lov'n the way my 40 runs with a restored 28 PICT-1 and a restored R-5 big cap dizzy. Smooth as silk. Just like when new. Good vid!

@docscout 3 года назад

It’s the perfect combo of carb and distributor. I’ve seen so many 009 distributors in various carb/engine combinations and they never run right. The 009 was designed to run flat out for things like farm equipment.

@brianchisnell1548 3 года назад

@@docscout Yes. Everyone wants the performance. I removed an H-30/31 and a V-06 dist. That came with the car. Good pick up, but no load sensing. Hard starting when hot and a stumble off idle. What I have now, is a perfect choke, idle and top speed of 72 mph and 30 mpg. ( Factoy spec. ) What it was... 74 mph and 25 mpg. 1964 sunroof bug. Cheers!

@jonwilmot5331 2 года назад

Thanks for your great video. I have a 1600 dual port in a beach buggy in u.k. I have electronic ignition with a cheap Chinese carb off e bay. Today we took it off and adjusted the accelerator pump to come in earlier (right hand side against alternator) it's completely solved the hesitation problem. So hope that helps. Jon.

@falconx5744 6 месяцев назад

Alot of people miss that on a carb, the adjustment of the carb accelerator pump is very important for a nice crisp throttle response 👍

@douglasbarnhart3324 3 года назад

Thank's for the video.

@m.b.6573 9 месяцев назад

Great informative video. Thanks.

@davyboscart1089 3 года назад

Great vid! The condensor once caused me problems. Replacing everything... Spark plugs, cables, rotor, rotor cap, contact point... It was the piece of 10€. 😬

@ugrikapetanovic224 3 года назад

If your contacts are blue and they became blue very fast it is condensor problem.

@gustavopadilla9176 3 года назад

Good video 👍

@randall1959 3 года назад

Thank you for this video. I have a VW trike with a 1600 dual port and it had the .009 distributor. I just changed it and did the timing and it does appear to run better although I haven't had a chance to ride it yet.

@randall1959 3 года назад

It does appear to have helped quite a bit.

@russelltatro2835 2 года назад

Great video!

@frankiefoster7697 3 года назад

My Old Boss gave me his 1974 super beetle... I have no idea why I am doing, these videos are tremendous. Thank you

@JosephDR 3 года назад

Cool! Get it road worthy and have fun driving it. My first car was a '72 Super. It was a fun car. I don't really like supers but I had great memories with that car. I now drive a '64 bug.

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

In this video, we look at the top 7 seasons why your Vintage Classic VW Beetle Bug will hesitate. stall, choke, on acceleration.

@420mroc Год назад

good tips for a noob thanks mate got a tricky 72 3 months in

@AirkooledKustoms 3 года назад

good content

@TheCarNextDoor 2 года назад

I just spent 4 days trying to solve a bog and dead spot under load. Focussed on timing first. Then a few days cleaning carbs, jets, setting accelerator pump, etc., back to timing. Nothing helped that much. The problem ended up being the point gap. I checked the points last. It was a bit too wide. I set it to 0.016” and problem solved. Advise: Check the east things before you start ripping apart your carbs. Lol.

@alvintoledo4207 Год назад

Very informative

@CHRISTIANGARCIADELVA 2 года назад

Nice video thank you so much for the info

@jqmtv 2 года назад

This is actuslly extremely helpful to me. I bought a 69 bug just weeks ago and I've been having these challenges. Hopefully I can get this done all through and through

@amazeddude1780 Год назад

Regarding item #4: I believe that the 'spring' you are talking about in the choke housing is actually a bimetallic material that expands and contracts with temperature changes. That expansion/contraction causes the coil to open when heated and close when cold- this latter action closes the throttle to restrict the air though the venturi which speeds up the air, causing enrichment of the mixture. The idle speed is also increased by setting the fast idle cam. One pump of the accelerator sets the fast idle cam, activates the choke system while giving one shot of fuel to help prime the engine.

@jamesbown1022 Год назад

My carb manual refer to it a 'bi-metallic spring'.

@A61CORDE 2 года назад

hello, and thank you for your tips.

@classicvwbugs 2 года назад

thank you for coming by the channel.

@rupe53 3 года назад

Good video, but your top 7 only covers early engines. Once we get to the dual port manifolds we have those rubber boots on the intake that are always cracked due to age. Heck, I saw some leaking 40 years ago so I can only imagine how dry rotted they are now!

@monchy25 3 года назад

Chris Vallone I was stubborn and tried to make a 34pict carb + empi 009 work at the end and after trying 3 different carbs ( all 34 pict) I gave up, recently put dual Kadrons and I score a Bosch 009 for free 😊 now my 1776 motor runs like a champ!!! All your videos are really helpful but us humans learn from trial and error, Lol

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Many times that is the best way.

@andymaurice7693 3 года назад

I would add on the vacuum leak to check the throttle plate cross linkage which those brass bushings fittings wear away and creates vacuum leaks almost non-detectable. Our friend in Oregon replaces these bushings at a fair price.... Andy L.

@joeodonnell2594 3 года назад

Great tips

@gaborkorthy8355 2 года назад

Accelerator pump tube : the spray of gas from the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted such that as the throttle plate opens that spray shoots between the wall of the carburator and the opening throttle plate. The brass tube will rotate to facilitate that adjustment. After adjusting make sure to reseat the base of the tube into the carb body by pushing it down.

@benkanobe7500 8 месяцев назад

This is by far one of THE most overlooked items with these carbs. People cycle through carbs all because rebuilders don't really understand how the carb works. Getting that spray to fan-out as it hits the edge of the throttle plate just as it cracks from the venturi wall makes for an excellent throttle response. You are right on!!

@orbitaljellyfish808 2 года назад

Also check for manifold heat, which could be low due to clogged heat risers. Anything other than original exhaust system will not force enough exhaust gas into the risers to warm the fuel a stock engine would consume. Add a header and now there’s more potential fuel and less potential heat. Manifold less than 105* F means fuel can stick to it rather than be used and thus lean hesitation with big gulps of air/fuel (off idle throttle hits). Even with short runner dual carbs it’s an issue. I’ve added ceramic heaters to mine and some 70+ amps of current to heat the manifolds. The heaters and epoxy also insulate so they’re not always on. It’s a solution and makes good power but wow a stock setup would be so much easier lol

@jedclampett6466 2 месяца назад

Thanks.....tip number one is my obvious problem.

@salabluemarine4637 2 года назад

Great information, I have been using a beetle, Brazalian origin, 1600cc Double Carb. I have hit 160 on flat roads and it was a great piece of machine. My simple question is, how does the two carbs work at high speed, I was told by a German Auto Mechanic, on these dual carbs, one of the carbs gets fully operational when you hit a certain speed, say when you pass 80 km the second carb opens to give the full throttle and both works in a sync manner. Could you please elaborate on the principles of this functional operation.

@GT.Bugger 2 года назад

Good informative video.

@MIKEJMP 3 года назад

Chris Vallone is Cool!

@stacysdad5071 Год назад

Thanks Chris. That is very helpful.

@TheEZGZ 2 года назад

Thank you sir!

@wyomikey65 3 года назад

I don't know if thiswas covered in the comments but another place to check is for a worn throttle shaft. I have run into this a few times

@bellwethertrucking3650 Год назад

I imagine some people also try to put jets that are too big, thinking it will be faster. That might be true on the big end, but it would almost certainly sputter a bit in the lower revs (before it can get enough air to make the fuel-air mix right).

@simel444 3 года назад

Hi - I have a FI to carb conversion (empi 34 carb). Heat risers were not installed. Bought it like that. I will replace the FI exhaust in order to add those heat risers shortly. Can that be a reason of engine hesitation (carb icing) on higher speed? It happens every couple of minutes, mainly > 50 mph... Great videos BTW, this will help a lot! Very clear and easy to understand

@edwardseaton4492 3 года назад

a propane torch , un lit of course, is also a good and less dangerous/messy way to search for a vacuum leak

@wiremonkeyshop 2 года назад

Hey Chris, I'm going to throw a Pertronix III conversion into a stock german vacuum advance distributor. I have proper wires and low resistance coil coming as well. What plug do you recommend with electronic distributor? Ones with 10K resistance or no resistance? Thanks! Love your channel!

@edwinvelez2585 11 месяцев назад

What state are you located. Just got my first vw beetle and out of all the other videos I haved seen your's are the best concerning carburetors.

@jodiendoelnick 3 года назад

Hi, Chris thanks for putting this info out there for all of us! I have a VW Beetle 1968 and it idles perfectly but sputters when I accelerate. It runs smooth right off the bat, warmed up or cold, when it's idling, it doesn't sputter or anything, It's only when i try to drive it when it starts acting up on me. Thanks in advance!

@johncollins5552 2 года назад

An engine under load needs a different amount of ignition advance and air/fuel ratio to idle. What I recommend is that you tune your carb using a vacuum gauge. Using a tee piece pop it onto the vacuum hose between the distributor vac. Can and the carb. Use it on a fully warmed up motor after a drive. Then you simply adjust the carb mix screw so that the gauge reads the highest vaccum level, that's in the minus number, in other words so the engine sucks the strongest, this gives the most efficient power your engine can make.

@alphawindowsdoors9023 9 месяцев назад

i was wondering if you resolved this problem? i have the same issue,THanks

@sleimanmashoun9767 3 года назад

Hi Chris, love your Vids. I have a problem with my 1300 1970 stalling when it gets warm. I don’t have any problems starting the engine and it fires up very smooth and easy(almost to easy). Where would you recommend me to start looking? Sheers all the way from Sweden. /Sleiman

@jonathanferro8211 3 года назад

Hey Chris thanks for all your great informative videos have a question I live in Florida what oil would you recommend for a 1600 duel port motor I find a lot of different information online

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Well I always tell folks 10-30w oil or straight 30w, basic oil, you do not need anything fancy. Try that first and see how you do. If anything you could try straight 40w or 10-40w. Shouldn't need anything more than that.

@tomasalvarez6040 Год назад

Do u have a video on “upgrading from points to petronix”….im with about not dealing with adjusting points, one less thing to worry about. Fyi i have a 72 ghia, 1600 dual port. Any suggestion on brands of necesary items that inwould need; much appreciate!🙏🏻🙏🏻

@mohamedjaleel1229 2 года назад

Although the Beetle looks unassuming, it certainly has advanced engineering features it's carb and other vital parts.

@bottmar1 Год назад

I found that the little brass accelerator pump tube that squirts gas down the throat of the carb. might be loose. I usually tap it down to make sure it is seated. One time I overhauled an engine and when started the engine started to hammer. I found that brass tube inside the engine being hammered by a piston. No harm done but had to dismantle part of the engine. I did not work on that carb. during the overhaul. Best advise is to always tap that tube down and see if it rotates too easy on any type of service you do.

@normblais7527 8 месяцев назад

I had the same thing happened to me so I’m a little paranoid now I wiring a tether to the spout

@pierreduplessis1507 3 года назад

Been using the empi street curve distributor and a arrow(chinese)carb and have flat spot at the start of rev range.

@robertocolon4100 Год назад

Workin on a 16tl. Dual silex on a trike. Bad backfires thru exhaust. Valves are set around.011, it seems the linkages are uneven due to the twist on carb linkage throw at different angles. So when at idle all sinchrod but pikin up rpms one opens more. Done timing switched coils cap wires you name it....this seems to be it. Carbs are clean . I don't know what is the tiny brass screw at top . Behind the acc. p ump tubes

@CJ-nj6qb 3 года назад

Hey Chris, Do you happen to have a video on how to replace a 1970 vw bug hood latch and cable?

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

I do not yet, sorry.

@duffysullivan2794 3 года назад

If the VW is not running smooth, or not even starting, it all boils down to two reasons... it's not getting fuel, or it is not getting spark.

@vladmares8128 3 года назад

Or compression ;)

@ugrikapetanovic224 3 года назад

Or it's getting to much fuel. That plastic leveler could be too low.

@WCA13 11 месяцев назад

That’s so funny I’m new to this and those two things have always been the root to my problems so far so good

@MutualPropane Месяц назад

What about air ?

@garyfreeman2254 3 года назад

Re jet the carb and adjust the accelerator pump to overcome the 009 flat spot.

@michaelbarr343 3 года назад

I replaced my fuel pump and ever since Iv'e had hesitation issues. I read that the fuel pumping out of the new pump might be overwhelming the carb. i also read that grinding down the rod that drives the pump will relieve this. I will check the accelerator pump and dual jets next. This is a 69 motor in my 65 bug. 1500 cc. Thank you for the info Chris.

@bullibill8277 5 месяцев назад

Yes, it is sadly not uncommon for a new aftermarket fuel pump which might be producing too much fuel pressure to your carburetor. VW throughout the years and models specified both the minimum and maximum fuel pressure that a fuel pump should put out (it will vary depending on the engine size, year and carb type). Generally speaking, you should have at least 1.8 or so PSI at Idle (about 850 to 1,000 rpm, and a maximum of about 2.8 to 3 PSI at 3,00 PSI). Do NOT grind down your metal fuel pump rod yet, because some adjustment of the pressure can be made simply by either removing or adding more or less paper fuel pump gaskets (but there must ALWAYS be at least one paper gasket both above and below the red-ish/brown-ish plastic "intermediate flange" base between the crankcase and fuel pump!). When/if you have the pump off, measure the exact length of that metal fuel pump rod in millimeters (there are at least two different types/lengths). Do some further research to find out exactly what your engine needs to run smoothly... I won't use an aftermarket fuel pump or carburetor! I only rebuild (or have rebuilt for me) original equipment Pierburg brand fuel pumps and original Solex brand carburetors. The aftermarket stuff is too troublesome, basically rubbish in terms of quality and reliability. Bill B

@7CAJONEZ Год назад

2 most common problems in most high mileage carbs especially VW Solex: Throttle shaft hole worn so vacuum leak there and always slop in accelerator pump linkage. The accelerator pump should squirt the instant the throttle is opened. Usually it is so worn that the throttle is already opened 1/8 inch before the slop in the linkage is taken up and it actually squirts. Some have 2 cotter pin holes in the end of the rod that pulls the pump linkage, move the pin to the hole closest to the throttle shaft. Whatever it takes to remove and repair wear.

@jasonlinder9923 3 года назад

Would like a video of warm up cable on air cleaner install on 70 beetle, any suggestions.

@nikduffield5457 Год назад

Chris, can a dodgy vacuum advance seem like fuel starvation? I am looking at a bug with fuel starvation issues

@Jonhenrysneip Год назад

Thanks👍👍👍👍👍👍

@jerryjoejackaroe 2 года назад

Great videos.... I have a solex pict 3 and a 009 distributor. I was going to try to rebuild the carb before i watched this video. The car runs good but when i downshift to 2nd gear and go around a corner at about 10 miles an hour the car bucks and bogs. I have to sometimes put it into first gear which doesnt seem right. would you switch to a vacuum distributor first or rebuild the carb first. The 009 i have has no points. its a 63 bug with a 73 dual port motor. thanks any help is appreciated

@bolti1000 2 года назад

Chris interesting - thanks - so I have a question in regards to the coil. In most of the images you show it has the coil pointing downward with one pointing upwards. Being oil filed coils, if it is pointed upward does this stress the upper wire locations from electrical stress by possibly not being submerged in the oil? Thanks Sid

@classicvwbugs 2 года назад

I don't think so.

@jemcnair76 2 года назад

When everything else is correct, stock jetting, clean carb, SVDA dizzy, timing correct, carb settings nice, and it's still giving you fits... look at clogged heat risers. And you need that extra heat to the air cleaner off the sled... even if your ATS (air temp sensor) is dead or deleted. You NEED that 3rd heating hose to the breather. You can get away with a bad ATS, but you can't get away with clogged heat risers, and no sled heat to the breather.

@aaronvoreis 2 года назад

Hello! First off, your videos are absolutely fantastic! Thank you so much for posting such awesome content! I am having issues with my stock 68' beetle dying at idle. The engine runs great when pressure is on the gas pedal but dies as soon as the pedal is released. The car starts great but dies after a couple of seconds at idle. I have a 30pict2 carby. I have checked the fuel lines, fuel filter, replaced the fuel pump, and cleaned the carb jets. When I cleaned the carb jets it ran awesome for about 30 miles but now the problem has come back. Should I rebuild or replace the current carb with the 30pict1 or try something else first? Could it simply be a carb float issue? Thank you for your help!

@classicvwbugs 2 года назад

Have you seen my video on express carb clean? You may have to just break it down and dunk it over night, clean those areas where the BBs are.

@johnwarfn 3 года назад

I once put a new gas tank in my Beetle without cleaning it out first. Big mistake! It clogged the carb and the car would barely run. A mechanic had to remove the tank, clean with solvent, blow out the fuel line, take apart and rebuild the carb. Then it ran fine. Beware of “cheap” parts that lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs.

@brianchisnell1548 3 года назад

And make sure you cave a clean (in tank) filter screen

@daveroy1136 3 года назад

I have a 68 engine, 009 distributor with out the vacuum, and perlox ignition. I did ALL of the things Chris suggested, to no avail. I found that I needed to run non ethanol fuel, or grade 92 fuel.I adjusted the timing to roughly 6 degrees before top dead center, and used a 12 VDC test light to static time the distributor cap to the rotor. I think changing the fuel was the BIG ISSUE‼️

@Wiencourager 2 года назад

For ethanol fuel you need larger fuel jets in the carb. Ethanol fuel will run a bit too lean if the carb has been jetted for non ethanol Fuel.

@fakhroo5 Год назад

thank u

@KingDupue 3 года назад

Hey Chris, kinda off topic, but where can you get authentic VW carburetor's? Is EMPI ok to use if you can't get a real one? Lastly, what is your thought on progressive carburetor's? Im not sure what to do with a rebuild im doing. Im brand new to beetles and Ive searched online, but im getting so many different and mixed opinions.

@SergeoGabrielloGomez 3 года назад

Any tips of getting both carbs accelerator pump spitting the same amount of fuel . I’ve measure the travel of the actual accelerator pump and they are about even but how do I know for sure that both are spitting out the same amount of fuel .

@jamesschramm4739 3 года назад

I need some suggestions, my 74 VW Beetle sat for about 3 years, long story....... But anyway, it wouldn't run so I replaced the Gas Tank which was rusted and also float. Replaced the fuel lines, filters including the Carb. and fuel pump. It still has a rough time running smooth. Whenever it was parked I had just replaced the gas tank, plugs, wires and adjusted the valves and was running better then ever. Anything you might suggest....... Thanks.

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

I would take that carb off and open it up and do a cleaning.

@ahernandez9860 4 месяца назад

So close to getting my shitbox running after 2 years. Multitude of issues but got hesitation on acceleration now. 34 pict 3 empi carb paired with 034 clone from pertronix with matching wires. With only 3 screws to adjust on carb you think it would be a snap but never is. German carbs are near 400.00 now! WTF is going on? This timeline sux!

@joebruno2675 2 года назад

How about some EFI beetle videos. Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection vs carb and what alternatives. The pros and cons. I have a 77 with Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.

@classicvwbugs 2 года назад

I never work on fuel injected really.

@rickguell2971 3 года назад

Hi Chris, my 65 has been sitting for about a year. A small amount of gas is in the tank I belive and i need a new battery. Anything at all I should do BEFORE I start it up to prevent damage?

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Inspect that tank, dump the gas. Check oil of course. A year is not too long so... Go thru tune up motions too.

@joshuuaaaa440 3 года назад

Random one , I have been through all these issues and resolved everything and everything on my engine is 100% stock and okay tuned up and drives perfectly (no leaks or gasket issues) BUT when on the motorway or highway it drives awesome loads of power but after around 40/50 miles on the motorway at a certain speed it just looses speed and goes lumpy then springs back to life for another few miles then same again and so on and so on ! All googling I have done has always said ignition timing/plug gaps but they’re spot on it does my head in everything is perfect new vaccum lines , carb cleaned rebuilt and tuned new gaskets all the way down to the head , good battery connection etc fuel pump perfect , it doesn’t ice up at all it’s just random and sometimes if it happens on a hill can push my speed down to 30mph which I just want to sort because it’s dangerous! Is there anything that could be an oddball issue that I’m missing ?!

@johncollins5552 2 года назад

New ethanol compatible fuel hose every 4 or 5 years in the engine bay with fuel hose clamps is a good idea, costs under 10 bucks. Just do it! Great tips as always Chris.

@belindaresor.78 3 года назад

Can you please make a video about EVAP system.

@bradsmith1356 3 года назад

Hi, I have a Pict 34 carb which after 3 or 4 strokes on the accelerator builds up back pressure so that the accelerator can no longer be pressed down and no further fuel comes through the accelerator nozzle. Any ideas? (I have had the carb rebuilt about a year ago) thanks. Brad

@famcontreras93 3 года назад

Maybe a video on idle stall... Bugs been driving running fine and started to notice it wants to stall at idle...

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Got it, I have an express carb rebuild video.

@mamonhamoda4428 3 года назад

Realy nice lesson Chris ... keep up

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

thank you!

@irvingchavez1516 3 года назад

Hey Chris great video! I have a ‘74 bug that runs good until I hit about 65-70MPH and then starts choking up and stalling on me. I have to pull over and let it resettle. Any recommendations?

@classicvwbugs 3 года назад

Hmmm sounds like fuel restriction. Bad fuel pump maybe? Check fuel flow.

@mindi7998 Год назад

My husband just bought me a 69 VW ,it's been sitting for a few years but he's a mechanic had it running rough right after he got it here. Wondering why the brakes look good but aren't working very well?