Clean & Replace ABS /Wheel Speed Sensor: GM Yukon, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade GMC, Chevrolet, Chevy 

So true I like to see t his job done here in northeastern part of the country where everything is rusted 🤪🤪🤪

Hundread per cent1pp

I can not imagine working through rust. My work gloves go out to you.

Thank you for this comment

Sounds like your bearing(s) could need replacement if the sensor is full of grease. Are you hearing a growling noise?

@@barretgerlitz4406 6 months later and still no growling noise and no more issues at all. I really don't have a lot of miles on that hub.

Thank you sir

Did this cause your truck to feel sluggish while driving also?

Lloo.m. .mo If Kppppopppppop

Around 2006 GM recalled Sierra 1500s that were in the designated Rust Belt for dirty/ corroded front wheel Hall effect sensors and hub to remove the wheel and rotor, inspect, remove any dirt and apply a zinc spray to the area of the hub that works with the sensor.

Ha! You just described the problem I’m having with my 02 Sonoma. Now I know what to do!

So the bolt dont back out.

Did you figure out the issue?

Loctite

@@capitalr8649 Thank you

There are various videos on testing speed sensors. Check those out. If you are having a problem with the Service Stabillitrck, Service Traction Control, and ABS light on. Then the problem is probably a speed sensor or the wiring the to the speed sensor. Cleaning a speed sensor will not usually fix your problem.

So might need to replace the wire huh

It depends on what the issue is. There could be several, ranging from a brake boost leak to the sensor to the abs module, to low fluid. You'll need to figure that out before you'll know.

Same issue here. Did you figure out what it was?

Have same issue 04 suburban lt1500 when abs light comes on car tries to stall out. Getting abs code C0237

@@disciplez0 mine ended up being the wheel bearing being worn out.

Found out it was the right speed sensor. The stalls are coming from intake manifold gasket.

I’m in the same boat as well but it’s my front driver lol when I reverse it’s difficult. And my tc and abs light is on .... did you fix your issue ??

It should be fine as long as you properly wrap it as well

I would try unplugging the battery for a few minutes first, and if you continue to have problems then it’s possible

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage did you reset with the scanner?

Michael Knight it very well could be. This is a free way to clean these and give it a try!

Michael Knight I have a similar situation. I recently purchased a 2007 Chevy Tahoe and I’m having the same issue with the brakes when I do low speed turns. Hopefully this can be the solution to the problem

Did you find the problem? Same issue here...turn the truck on no stabilitrak light...but as soon as I turn the wheels the light comes on.

@@fuyou1999 my buddy ran the codes and the steering wheel position sensor is reading incorrectly. He says it look like whoever installed the lift may have had it disconnected and it spun a full revolution. Or the sensors bad itself. It does it so rarely I haven’t address it yet. But will soon I suppose

Remove the sensor. inspect for rust that is pushing the sensor up and increasing the air gap. If this is the case, stick a piece of rag into the sensor hole, this is to keep debris out of the bearing. (DO NOT TURN THE BEARING AS THE RAG CAN BE LOST IN THE BEARING). Clean the rust off the mounting surface with a small 3m scotch brite wheel. Do not grind it , just clean the surface,( REMOVE THE PIECE OF RAG), then reassemble. When this situation happens there are no codes, but you will here the ABS brake unit activates and happens at low speeds maneuvering like 5 mph or when slow turns and the wheel speeds can vary at times. Its NOT the steering wheel sensor.

I don’t think he would do that for liability involved, but it could be something with the brake components, even steering related tie rods, pitman arm, etc. With the vehicle safely on Jack stands you can push on the steer wheels by hand to feel for any slop. If not, take it to another trusted mechanic for diagnosis to be safe

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage although you don't think he would do that the guy shouldn't have had the cabin filter out for a oil change and the service department called said the truck was done, I drive there and it's on the rack with the wheels off and the service writer has the cabin filter in his hands to try and convince me that it really needs replacing after he already sent a picture trying to make the sale for $80 bucks and I already said no. After that I waited another hour for the truck to be finished. So although he may not have done anything it looks really sketchy. The truck only has 64000 miles, has never been off road or in the mud garage kept and regular maintenance it's still like new. So it's something abs I think and just was hoping to find a GM mechanic that might have a idea of what it might be. The shop was a Chevrolet dealership that twice before has pulled some sketchy stuff so I don't put anything past them, I'll find the problem but probably not here.

Probably over torqued your lug nuts warping your rotor

Degreaser with a micro fiber towel. You don’t want to use brake parts cleaner or something that will damage any plastic or rubber

Sterling Ignatescue If it’s where the screw was in my video it meant to hold the rotor in place/ on. The lug nuts will do that and the brakes, but it’s there for a reason so maybe go pick up some from the dealership

Right on I'll do that tomorrow thanks for the help! Great video too, had it apart and back together in no time 💯

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage they are there for the assembly line from what I hear

@@MrChristianbowman82 I’m sure it’s very helpful to keep the rotor on while wheeling the drivetrain around on a hoist. It’s more solid than the little metal washer they have used (maybe still also use), but just hope people know it’s torx and don’t strip it.

It was driving fine without them, why put them back? They're only there to hold the rotor on during the assembly line

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset the system?

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage No but going to try that in a few.

@@brycebolden9606 what was the issue?

@@brandondonovan8402 Ended up getting grease on the sensor from the CV axle. Pulled it out and cleaned it up and worked fine. I'd check sensors by obd2 or take each sensor out and clean them then check all plugs to each sensor.

@@brycebolden9606 ahhh interesting, did you discover it right away?

Andy Francis Have you found out why the check engine light is on? If you take it to a parts store like autozone they can usually run the codes for free. I would start there to see what the computer code is saying. It’s going into “limp mode” to protect the vehicle.

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yes i already got a code for accelerator pedal positioning censor' changed it twice same problem

Andy Francis Just checking- was it the “throttle position sensor” in the engine bay that you changed? I would also look into cleaning the mass airflow meter

Andy Francis ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lsfe6h8jZ0k.html

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage no the pedal position censor also changed throttle body same issue.

Yes, most new cars have it for the abs wheel speed information.

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage If all four wheels have this how do you know which one is bad

I did change them soon after. It’s in the playlist as well now

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! See my others on this yukon here ru-vid.com/group/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr

Cleaning the sensor is one thing to attempt, but if there is another issue, that needs to be replaced. I would see if a shop can read any codes from the computer that have come up to tell you which part is actually in need of replacement. It may be a traction control module or something along those lines. The car is going into limp mode so it should have a code for why