Cleaning a 22 Suppressor the easy way, (less toxic than the dip). 

how do you dispose of the mess afterwards?

Mainly pistol. I used it on a tx22, Ruger mk4 and a s&w victory 22 along with a 10 round mag from a 10/22 to see if there was further suppression with a longer barrel using Aguila 60gr.

No, I haven’t seen a noticeable reduction in sound signature. On the upside, no noticeable increase in sound either. It isn’t messy at all to shoot this way. The grease is thick enough that it just redistributes itself inside the can and the temp tolerance is high enough that it doesn’t flow. I can’t imagine any firing schedule that would get the stuff hot enough to completely liquefy without causing problems elsewhere first.

@@DennRN sweet, thanks for the info. I ammazoned the same grease you are using. I wouldn't imagine it making it louder at all. Was hoping for quieter just since wet can sometimes fix FRP. Granted a 22 can is hard to see a difference being such a small round to deal with. I'm excited though, cleaning these baffles is a pain for sure. Even if it helps a little im game!

You have the wrong idea, the grease is not a cleaner, it’s used as a pre-treat. After your can is clean, use the grease. When you go to clean again, it’ll be far easier.

Clean them on a normal service interval, 250-500 rounds is recommended by dead air but this lets you go longer without having to deal with carbon and lead welded baffles. 22 cal is really dirty anyway so you won’t notice on a 22 can. On 9mm and 45 I’d use this method on aluminum and titanium baffles where cleaning options are limited. For stainless the best method remains ultrasonic cleaning.

@@DennRN thanks. I'm in the market for a mask and am trying to figure out what my cleaning requirements are going to be

@@brumfiba the Mask is the best 22 can and the one that every 22 is measured against, the baffles being titanium is a large plus for weight and strength when in use but the down side is that titanium really shouldn’t be ultrasonic cleaned. The dip works wonders but do your research and you’ll probably come to the same conclusion that a waste product that can poison you easily on accident is probably not worth the ease of cleaning. That leaves manual cleaning which really sucks. Strictly speaking they don’t have to be spotless but molten lead will accumulate along with carbon in a layer about equal to a sheet of nice resume paper for every 500 rounds or so. The base layer is bonded to the baffles with the tenaciousness of spray paint on a well prepared surface, just an utter nightmare. Being able to lift it off with a paper towel is amazing but the only way compare is to shoot a new can a bunch then get to scrubbing.

Get aRugged osculus stainless baffles, this is cool though

Seems worth a try! 🤷🏽‍♂️