The gas tank on a motorcycle I purchased had serious gunk and rust issues. I used a POR15 kit to clean, treat, and seal it. part 2 coming soon. www.amazon.com/shop/jodaddysg... As an amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
I was applying POR152 some rusty steel. I took precautions not to get it on my skin as it says on the label. I coded my face with Vaseline, I wore an old T-shirt on my head, an old, long sleeve shirt, and gauntlet gloves. But I got a little bit on my wrist. I ended up going to two different doctors. that PO or 15 gave my skin a condition called folliculitis. The hair follicles of my skin were clogged. That stuff does not come off skin until your skin decides to shed.. my skin looks like I had severe poison ivy. Nothing would take it off, not lacquer thinner, not alcohol, not paint thinner, not hand cream. Nothing
I did the POR 15 treatment on the gas tank for my KLR-250 Came out great It’s been two years, and still going strong. Great Video. Keep up the great work Looking forward to Part Deaux
Good video. Good luck with the bike. Nice starting project. Looks like you got the neck area coated pretty well at the point of showing the interior before draining to let dry i would have flipped it to let the neck area get better coated.
Thanks for sharing the video. I've found that most videos on this topic for motorcycle tanks depict simple tear drop tanks however for those with fuel tanks from bikes from 1980 on they will have much different shaped tanks making it a real challenge to spread the sealer around evenly and avoiding pooling / puddling in certain places. Puddling will prevent the sealant from hardening properly so that when you put fuel back in it will leak again in a few weeks. This happened with my ZZR1100 D 1998 tank having followed the 3 step process of a two week time frame. I left it 8 days to dry. With such a tank even when half full of fuel it is difficult to drain as the inside of the tank has so many channels designed to not spill fuel in an accident etc so you can rotate 360 and still only get small splashes out at each turn. When I sealed mine on only got half the sealer back out even after nearly 3 hours of rotating . Great workout though. I'm not sure that such tanks can easily be resealed once fuel leaks occur
YES DO THIS. I wish I had invested in a longer chain. I did a chain that was like 2ft long I had laying around and bolts and the chain did a great job and came out no problem but the bolts and screws took FOREVER to get out and I mean forever I was exhausted from all of the shaking. I did it on a 2001 ls650 Suzuki savage gas tank, still turned out pretty good though I have 3 hours left of curing and then it’s fuel time!
That rust stuff did a good job. Think he could have left out the marine clean. I would like to have seen him leave the tank upside diwn for a while to remove the rust from the neck area. People dont realize that a tank isnt necessarily like a big bowl. Some have chanels and even tubes in the neck and insides to releive pressure and vent fumes. Those areas dont usually have gas fluids in them for long but when empty can and will start surface rusting. Also when lining a tank you want all areas covered which will require you to have it upside down rolling it around so the neck area and any vent tubes are covered as well.
Id like to add that if your bike has a float like this and it is rusted. If you cant clean it up easily with a tooth brush and light solvent you should really get a new one. Itll be brass. Anything caustic is going to end up pitting it at best. Try PB and if it needs a little more some brass cleaner but id stay away from any acid.
I did my model A with it back in 2007. Still holding up great. Just follow the instructions. I did put some bolts and nuts in the tank when I was cleaning it. I shook the tank to break loose rust. @@chrisandrews9539
