Hey ghostses, thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent, easy to follow and understand, video on cleaning cast iron with Boeshield Rust Free.
Great video thanks for demonstrating it like this. You sure answered your detractors. It doesn't appear you used too much of it either. Thanks a bunch. Don't worry about the length so much you had to answer them and you did. I enjoyed it. Liked and subbed
Thanks Greg! Yeah, some folks believe everything they hear, and others believe nothing without proof. I don't gain monetarily from anything I post, so I've nothing to gain from being dishonest. I just call them as I see them. I have done a few sponsored product reviews, but even they were done with no bias. No I didn't use much at all. The product itself goes a long way. It's nice to use a product that does as advertised! Glad you found it useful and informative. I mainly post tool reviews, some how-to's, some machining among other random things. Feel free to dig around my videos for anything of interest. Thanks and good luck, G.
Here I am looking at the best way to refurbish a craigslist jointer surface and halfway through the video I notice it's the same helpful guy that set me up with the miter saw dust box instruction! Thanks dude
Picked up a rockwell 37-130 and I am starting the restoration this weekend. The thing actually runs, cuts and seems in ok shape...other than some rust and desperate need of a cleaning, new blades, belt and some lube...been studying up with your videos and other sources...thanks for sharing!!!
I appreciate the thorough video! We may try this on our jointer table. Don't worry too much about naysayers - some folks just need to criticize. Looks like you've been contributing a lot to the community! If the negative commenters don't have something constructive to add, they probably just spend too much time being armchair carpenters and not enough out in their workshop. Speaking of which...I'm headed out! Thanks for the inspiration and advice.
I love T9 I worked in the bicycle industry for 28 years and use T9 lube almost every day, I have the same jointer and after I clean the surface I use paste wax, haven’t seen rust on my table saw or jointer for years.
That's impressive stuff. We have a problem with high humidity here and it's particularly bad in Winter when I can find the steel in my workshop soaking wet with even tiny changes in temperature. I usually wipe everything down with an oily rag or use a wax film. I can get the T9 here so I'll try that. Best Wishes, Brendan.
It is Brendan. Clean any rusty surfaces with the Rust Free, if you can get that there as well, then use the T-9. I like quick and easy. This fits the bill, and works great. Good luck, G.
Nice quick work G. Hadn't seen the Boeshield stuff before but Amazon and Sears has it. You can get a kit of remover and T9 for ~$25. Think I'll try it next time...have used other method for years but this stuff is easy with great results. Thanks for the How to and product info...once again, Nice Job & Great Vid.
Thanks PJ, this is the best stuff I've ever used. As shown, it requires very little effort to clean up the surfaces and is a product that actually works! I would highly recommend it. G.
This stuff is awesome Bob. I'm sure there are other sources, but I got mine from Woodcraft. You can buy just the rust remover, or can get a kit that has the rust remover, T-9, and blade and bit cleaner. Or you can cherry pick and buy each of the three products individually. I've not used the blade and bit cleaner so I can't comment on it. I see PJ's made a comment that Amazon and Sears has it as well. www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000984/208/T-9-Rust-Free-845-Ounce-Pump-Spray.aspx www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000984/3401/Large-Total-Tool-Care-Kit.aspx G.
This stuff works great Roland. I can use it to clean the cutter head- and will. I need to grind down a wrench so I can loosen the blades to get it ready for cleaning. Thanks, G.
+James Wiskus Thanks James! Yes, the video is still up. Here's the link. Take care, G. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xe3sk9OVs2E.html
+ghostses Thanks again, Of course I found your video after I asked you if it was still out there. Looks like Rust Free is the only way to go. Blessings, Jim
+James Wiskus No problem Jim- glad you found it! Rust Free is a product that really does what it claims-, and with minimal effort- as shown in the videos. If you do get some for a project, please feedback with your results and what you think overall. Good luck, G.
It was a good score Bain. I can't say for sure about the alloys since is just states steel. But would say yes since it says it works on vinyl and cloth-as well as all of the other things I mentioned in the video. G.
***** I'll have to get some of this. Thanks G, for letting us know about it. Now that I don't have to do some sanding I'll have to take care of that project I was putting off....LOL!
bain5872 No problem. I think you will like it and it will make your project easier to manage. Good luck with it and let me know how it worked for you when you get around to it. G.
James, T9 is a rust inhibitor- so it doesn't matter how long it's left on. Rust Free, however, is applied and left for about 60sec. before scrubbing and then removed with mineral spirits. Hope this helps, G.
Hi, say I really respect your candor and knowledge. I wasn’t sure where to look but thought you might have some ideas. Do you have any thoughts or videos on drill press vises? I am looking to purchase one. This would be for the DP220, 14” Delta/Milwaukee. The table is 14”x10”. I’m open to all types. Thanks! Jim
Thanks Jim! I do have a video showing a Palmgren angle vise restoration. Palmgren are great vises. I would keep my eye out for a good deal on one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HJgMXhWLy_Y.html I do have this one from Harbor Freight- never used it and it's not the best of quality, but they're inexpensive and might suffice depending on your needs. www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html Take care, G.
I bought a rust remover and did not read the do not use on certain metals long story short it blued and left swirl marks on my jointer used a metal polish which removed the blueing but still have swirl marks. Going to try and find something else that will get the swirl marks out. My jointer is outside under my patio and rusts very easily ii live in Az were its dry but still gets rust
Robert, it should eat out anything that's in the pits- but you might need to focus on them with applications. Then follow up with a final once-over. Good luck, G.
Hey how are you? I have a question and wasn't sure how to contact you direct so I came to s favorite video. Have you ever done a video on engine turning or jeweling of steeI? I would like to use a 3/4" diameter adapter. I just wondered if you had suggestions as far as a media, sandpaper, lapping compound etc. thanks!
Very good James, thanks for asking! I haven't done a video on jeweling, nor have I ever done it. With that being said, I do know how I would go about it though. Personally, I would use aluminum, brass, or steel the diameter I wanted (3/4" in your case) with a thick piece of leather glued on (rough side out) and trimmed to fit. This would be chucked up in a mill or drill press. It would be charged with lapping compound and broken in/tested on a scrap piece- then would be charged from time to time. The base metal would be polished with a finer abrasive than what was being used for the jeweling. This would prevent any blemishes/scratches from showing on the finished product. If using a drill press, an XY table would be helpful in getting consistent spacing. I would apply a consistent pressure and the same number of seconds for each jewel. After the piece is finished, the compound would be rinsed off using the proper cleaner- not wiped since it might damage the jeweling. I know you can use Cratex abrasive sticks but don't know if they're available as large as you need. Also wire brushes could be used. Perhaps even a roll lock abrasive disk, but I think they're larger than what you're after. While it's just my opinion, as these products/options wear down- you're jewels might start to look different. That's why I think leather and compound would be the best and most consistent option. Hope this helps in some way, and if you do give it a go- let me know how it turns out and what you used. Good luck, G.
Thanks much! I was thinking the same thing with the thick leather. I initially started out with the intent of using the wool round pads like those sold by Ace Hardware for floor protection. The pads may then to spread or breakdown unless I use say a #6 worm drive hose clamp or one of the spring loaded band clamps. I think lapping compound is one basic grit. Thanks for the info! Jim
No problem Jim! Yeah, I would go with leather over the wool pads. Not that the wool wouldn't work, but it may be more of a pain to deal with the setup and might be less consistent. You should be able to find compounds in various grits. I guess what you choose would rely on what type of finish you're trying to achieve. I'd be curious on what system you end up using and how it worked out- so let me know. Take care, G.
Dave, I try to remove it pretty quickly and work in small sections- but do know what your speaking of. Try using white vinegar to remove the residue- then follow up with some mineral spirits and top coat with a wax of your choosing. Hope this helps, G.
Still love this video! I have used the Rust Free with great success. I have found on pits that I lightly move the solution in the pit with an oring pick. I keep it up until the orange is gone. Another great product I've found is the Sandflex blocks. Use them after the Rust Free and the metal can look new. Here is a short video. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vs86R6WXiiQ.html
Thanks for the followup Jim! Glad you like the Rust Free. It's good stuff. The Sandflex blocks look really cool. I like that the abrasive is all the way trough the block. They should last forever. I'll keep them in mind and try to pick up a couple to try out. Thanks for the tip! Take care, G.
Agreed Marcus. You do need to focus on the areas of concern but still do the entire surface to even things out if visual uniformity is important. For me, I don't care what the surface looks like if it's clean and flat. Take care, G.
