Great vid. To dry fire a 22 you can use size 8 plastic drywall anchors. They fit right in the chamber and take the blow from the firing pin well. Most of my 22s will even eject them with the extractor just fine
You can also put a spent round in the chamber to dry fire it and just leave the spent round in the chamber until you are ready to shoot again. Put the spent round in the extractor to hold it and slowly guide it into the chamber (rather than into the chamber first) so the extractor doesn't slam the shell and cause extractor wear. Slowly let the slide close with the shell held by the extractor.
I see some people below commenting that the thing that holds the spring in place is an E clip - I think that is correct as I have used them in other places and called them an E clip. C Clips usually are larger and hac holes in the endd for C clip pliers to grip them - but your video is very very good - thank you for posting it!
Very helpful video for Buck Mark owners. I lost my c-clip once and found out that Ace Hardware stocks them and they are 1/8in. size. I think I bought 10 for about a dollar.
Hi. Great informative video. I lost my c clamp so I had to purchase a few plus some other parts that will wear out eventually as I have 2 buckmark pistols. What i do do avoid dry fires is I purchased a bunch of .22LR snap caps so it would stay in cocked position or dry fire. I then just leave them in each .22 pistol or rifle. Just subed & Liked. Sincerely, JAMES.
I appreciate your efforts in educating Buckmark owners with good information. That said, I differ with you on everything except how you put the slide back on. We do that the same. First off, I can't imagine how you find slot head screws easier to use than the stock Allen screws. The size is 7/64 and easily available. You won't be constantly slipping off the head as you were. Another thing is you didn't show or talk about he special lock washers that are used on those screws. They can get lost easily so be careful when taking the screws out. There are many ways to remove the slide once the rail is removed and I have no problem with your method. I do it a little different but that is an easy one for everybody and they will gravitate to what suites them. I'm trying to figure out why you removed the slide return spring. It has zero to do with the firing pin and isn't in the way of removing the firing pin whatsoever. Concerning dry firing. Someone posted on here that you can dry fire a newer model. I bought mine this year and put a mark on my breach first time firing when I had a fail to load issue and accidentally dry fired mine. I was indeed pissed that this had happened at no fault of mine. There are many .22 autos on the market that can be dry fired like the Ruger's and the reason is they have a positive firing pin stop. First time I took my Buckmark apart, I realized that it has a firing pin stop. It just isn't utilized to stop the pin in a condition that would allow dry firing. The firing pin only needs to extend to near flush with the breach face of the slide. I pulled my pin out, removed the spring and put it back in with the retaining pin in place and pushed all the way in with a probe and measured how much needed to come off the end of the pin. It was only a few thousandths of an inch and easily stoned off with a 600 grit stone. I shortened until the pin is a couple of thousandths short of the slide face when fully depressed into the firing pin hole. I then put the spring back in and be sure to orient the pin in the right position. You want the pin striking face to be in the center of the cavity where the round will set when loaded. Once this is done, you can dry fire a Buckmark until the cows come home with no adverse effect on the barrel breach face. I have done many friends' Buckmarks this way and all work perfectly. I know this has been lengthy but I hope this will shed another light onto you video. Another thing that is very helpful with the slide spring is that the "C" clip is very easy to lose as stock. I have never seen a need to remove the spring and rod and I have fired thousands of rounds through mine. First time apart is a good time to pull that spring back a little and using your needle nose pliers, just close that clip up better to the groove. The clip they use is really a poor fit for that particular size shaft and groove, but once closed in tight, it will never come apart unless you want to do so. I truly don't mean to be critical of your video but I felt like some further explanation might help those who watch the video then read this post. Really just trying to help.
Thanks for the video.. Just purchased a used Buckmark 22 (mfg in 1985) and picked it up last night. Went to the gun range and immediately misfired on 40-50% of the rounds...Looking at the cartridge rims of the rounds that failed I see the strike looks very light...Will take a crack at this tomorrow...The gun is accurate has all "get out" ...I've already ordered new trigger, spring, recoil spring assembly, and a couple other related parts incase I elect to just replace the firing pin..Thanks
Great video. It’s never good to dry fire a handgun. However, like a dumbass, when I bought my Buckmark I dry fired it a few times, which caused the entire slide mechanism to lock up. It would also lock up a few times on the range. Never had a gun do that. I ended up buying a halo ring from Tandemkross to use to unlock the slide, and that was before I found out that you cannot dry fire a Buckmark. I’ll watch your video a few times before I attempt to clean the firing pin. Well done.
Nice vid - in fact well done son. Tip - MWG has the entire recoil system, including the firing pin for $15.00. Buying the assembly saves a lot of money and is a good idea since most are "wear" parts. Just ordered one since mine has seen well over 5,000 round in its life and the plastic parts/firing pin show wear and are getting to end of life. Once again - very well done, including good instruction as to what you are doing throughout. Semper Fi
1. Great vid I was totally having this issue and didn't know how to get the firing pin out and didn't want to break anything. 2. @13:30 "I don't even know if that's what it is called, if not that's what its called here." (Hilarious). It's a C-Clip everywhere else. A C-Clamp is C shaped Clamp that can be used to press the Piston back in on your Disk Brake Caliper (much larger).
@@ironhorse127 It belonged to my girlfriends brother. He let her borrow it to qualify. Very dirty. I lost dang spring so had to order that and front sight fiber optic! I gave it back super clean/improved. Those C clamps are TINY.
I own a Buck Mark and love shooting it. But I was taught to never run any cleaning too down the barrel from the muzzle of the gun. Browning says not to disassemble this gun to clean it. That's DUMB! You can not clean this gun properly without removing the barrel! Come on BROWNING!
Using quite some second hand .22lr, and having sometimes misfires, I do also go further than a field strip. It is always the same thing: gunk at the inside housing. Of a bolt action rifle or a blow back pistol, same issue. Previous owners always sprayed inside their guns. I do use ear butts and tooth picks to clean inside. And/or ultra sonic device. Never had to replace a firing pin yet. Side note about gunk: if you get a second hand bolt action rifle and it cocks with difficulty, check the blind holes (1 or 2) next to the chamber. Where the extractor fits in. Ow, ow,ow. Get a tooth pick and be surprised how much gunk comes out of it. Oil mixed with carbon and lead. After cleaning you can close the bolt with 1 finger. May this be an answer on the question “why no lubrification?”
As far a dry firing goes, I just bought a NEW Buck Mark (December 2017) and there is a card in plain sight in the box that tells you NOT to dry fire the gun. I noticed some remarks saying you could dry fire the new ones.
The spring on the firing pin hold the pin back so you don’t get slam fires. If the spring on the firing pin goes bad it would cause slam fires not soft strike miss fires.
Snap Caps and a minimal amount of lube will reduce the carbon and gunk. And all do not dry fire so you don't need to watch videos like this. As well with the 2 screws, are there crown type washers between screws and sight strap?
Like your fiance's buckmark she a pre 2001 version, The slide is different the guide rod assy is different. Browning has replacements you can get for $45.75. Includes a new slide and guide rod assy. Will need to take the extractor out of the old and into the new slide.
did you mean that if im pointing the gun at a target, the flat side of the firing pin would be on the right side of my gun, im still confused, please help thanks
No they are all plastic.....if you want the internals all of steel get a pre 2001....Browning cheapened the internals when they updated the pistol after 2001.....
I thought the ruger 22/45 was a PITA.. even on the Ruger you need no tools for field strip! .how can they justify charging $450 for a buckmark and you can pick up the Ruger for $300? Is it just a whole lot more accurate?
I just stripped down my buckmark, and didn't find any C clamp, so the spring was able to move freely about the rod it was coiled around. Is this a big problem? Recently it has been jamming a bunch (the bullet hits the area above the chamber), do you think its because I dont have a C clamp? If so, where can I get one online?
happymark1805 I don't blame him. Lube only collects grime, like a magnet. I only like lube on things that are away from the firing area(where all the gunk is). .22 is a very nasty cartridge. Don't do things that help collect that stuff. Just my opinion...
Not enough detail in your video work and it’s too busy in the background. Your handgun covers every corner on the screen. Your bast bet would to pull the video and stat over again and I’m sure you can do a better job Nice attempt of Video work
Before you start working on the gun, you really should tell your viewers to make sure the gun is unloaded, open the breach and show that to the viewers.