Excellent. Just what I needed to know. The issue I have is my Buck Mark was made in 1989. Purchased in 1991. Many rounds run thru it until my slide one day did not want to rack. The guide rod was bent. Went to Browning and told me that part is now obsolete. They upgraded the Buck Mark in 2001. Here's the great part. Slides typically run between 75 and 90 $$$. I needed a new slide because there is more material hogged out because there is different guide rod assembly which a block fits into the new slide. No way the new guide rod assy could be used in the slide in the 1989 version. Browning because their new design would have been an inconvenience sold me a new slide for 30 $$. New guide rod assy, 15 $$. Total= 45 $$. Great deal for upgrade for a great gun.
Thank you! Nice quick and through guide! 👍🏼 oh and a quick tip on getting the extractor out, put the slide in a plastic bag first (important or the little pin will shoot out of there and you’ll spend the next 30 mins looking for it) then just pull back on the extractor and when it is about 90 degrees from the slide it will just pop out
Very clear and concise video. You saved me a trip to the gun shop (and probably $40) because I didn't know how one of the trigger tension thingies that popped out was supposed to be positioned. As soon as I saw the correct position in your video I was back in action. 👍Thanks a ton!
Like a boss. Took it apart, put it back together & then took it apart again off camera! Lol very helpful information and walk through. Im new to the 22lr and the buckmark was a bit daunting at first to say the least, but Ive now taken mine apart several times thanks to gaining the knowledge from your video. Thanks.
I’ve been trying to replace my trigger with the Tandemkross trigger for so long. I’ve gotten to the steps of knocking the trigger pins out and I can’t do it. I’ve hit it so hard with no movement at all. What do I do? I didn’t fully disassemble it cause the tutorials don’t say I need to. Should I fully disassemble it?
Looks like you did the Heggis flip when you put the seat spring back in. From the factory the spring arms are orienated to the top not the bottom. Somebody with more knowledge chime in or correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks
Not sure. IMHO, they only seem pointing towards the bottom but the real direction the arms of the spring is in reality upwards, if you observe closely the direction of winding of the turns.
@@MrPhillyval To get the spring back in the way it came from the factory you have to use needle nose pliers and put tension on the spring putting it back in place while sliding the pin through the center of the coil spring. It’s flipped if you just drop it in and push the pin through. Takes 3 sets of hands and the patience of Jobe.
I think the video does show the spring going in with the so-called Heggis flip. I tried it both ways today, and noticed in all the schematics it shows the front, longer portion of the spring coming off the top of the spool on the right side of the frame, as you look down onto the open frame of the gun with the muzzle pointed away from you. Putting it in that way gives it much more spring tension than if the long spring arm, which goes under the seer, comes off the bottom of the coil.
First time mine is pulled apart that shiny spring at the back was in other way round compared to how you put yours back. I know because my sear hit the ceiling when i pulled that pin
Not weird at all. I like to clean my new guns if they are shipped with thicker oil. Also it’s a good time to inspect it and make sure nothing was missed by quality control.
