Quick tip, if the stains are from the contact with iron, do not neutralize the area with some alkaline solution afterwards, this will bring the stains right back.
Hi folks, Firstly apologies for the delay - I recorded this video and then just carried in with Building the house. I have read the comments and would reply as follows: firstly I have over 100 beans in my house and they have all been treated with oxalic acid. I didn’t put scrubbing else on even other than raw linseed oil. AT about £3 a bottle it is dirt cheap and brings the beans up beautifully. So simply great liked the video shows, let it dry and then use a sponge to wipe linseed oil on - done. I have pictures which I’ll try and add, but I’m not sure how to add them to this feed. I have saved thousands of pounds and tons of dust by doing what I did. Somebody showed me and that is why I recorded the video - trust me it really works. Good luck folks😁
Works ok for marks sitting on top of oak, as shown in the vid. However, when faced with water or mould stains it's a lot more tricky and can take a few processes, but even then it doesn't completely go.
Hi, nice to see your results. But I just wanted to say that whenever a strong acid is used, after this you need to neutralize it, don't just leave the acid on. You can neutralize oxalic acid with washing soda (which is alkaline). Then rinse off, and let the wood dry.
Ok so. If I happened to not know that and it's been on there a couple days. Am I still able to neutralize it? Because I am staining my beams and before that they needed a good cleaning. Now the stain won't penatrate the wood, its reacting with the oxalic acid instead. I just hope they aren't screwed.
@@jinmori2473 Yes, you can still do the neutralization. Then you'll need to let the wood dry before trying to stain it. Otherwise the stain won't penetrate.
I have an oak roll top desk with blackened water stains on it where I've been placing my cups. I believe that Oxalic acid will work for me. I'll order some and try it.
Hi, apologies for the delay, but I have just seen the questions. Basically I have now cleaned over 80 Oak Beams in my house using Oxalic Acid. I have used less than one tub that cost me just over £30. In terms of value that is exceptional. Just put a couple of desert spoon sized amounts into warm water - I use the tubs that a takeaway curry comes in - and then brush on and give a quick scrub with a firm brush. For up to a year after having green oak installed you will get black tanning coming through. Please be patient and wait for a few months and then use red acid. It will save you hours / days on sanding. Enjoy 😎
You say doesn’t leave any residue, but I keep seeing sites that say to triple wash with water, or rinse with vinegar or baking soda. Is that only if you want to put on a top coat?
Could we use this process for an outdoor (main door🚪) which gets battered by rain in the UK? The door has been sanded to remove the water stains (hadn'tseen this video prior to sanding😄). Thank you.
Hi So I am building a log house and the logs are all black since laying outside in the seasons since last years debarking... i was adviced to use chlorine bleach to bleach the logs, but this is not only very bad for the environment (building a natural home and bleaching with poison just feels wrong) so I was thinking oxalic acid... Will this work you think? Its cheap and biodegradeable.. Sounds Almost too good to be true!
You should neutralise the acid. Stuff like soda ash at the pool section in your hardware shop will do the trick. Wash with diluted soda ash 1:4 and let dry before staining or using oil.
