I’m so glad you posted this! Lol! I’m getting ready to do my first one, and I’ve been looking for videos on how to clean out the canister, and this is the only one I’ve seen so far! I’m running LL for now, but may switch to auto soon! Keep these kinds of videos coming!! Interested to see your annual!
Hey Tom. Glad you enjoyed it. Warm the Engine and burp it before cleaning out the tank. I took off the hoses, plugged the out hose with a rubber plug, there will be oil in the out but not the in. Use two wrenches when taking off the connectors, one to hold the nut the other to turn the An connector. The band that holds my tank in place was a 11 mm nut. Pre-oil the Filter for quick Oil pressure. Oil pressure came up right away. 3L of Aeroshell Sport Plus 4. I am going to try to use Some Auto Gas. I like certain things about AV Gas but I wish it didn't have the Lead. If we lived back East we could get different types of gas Easily. Don't turn the prop when you have anything off like the Tank or Oil filter, Add Oil to the tank before turning the prop.....It was all pretty easy but a second set of hands makes it even easier. Don't mix up the Out and In hoses.
Roger Larson Thanks for the tips! I’m actually only getting ready for my first change. 25hrs, so I don’t need to remove the canister yet, but I know I would have to eventually. Mine is S-LSA and will need an A&P annual anyway, so I get to have him do it most likely. I can’t believe you have over 100 hrs already! Let us know how it goes with the auto gas!Larry recommended against it, but you’re in Arizona, so I doubt you get much condensation in your tank to contaminate your fuel. My understanding is it’s easier to remove water contamination from avgas than auto gas. I opted to use avgas mostly for its availability, but I’m realizing now, I’m pretty much taking off and landing at my home base anyway, not really refueling at other airports, so availability of auto gas isn’t really a factor. Do you have the 80hp 912? I noticed the labels on your control bar have different limits than the ones I found in my manual. I labeled mine as well, but on the instrument pod. Anyway... I’m rambling😆. Happy flying!!!
Ironically I was just looking at the Indian Ruin footage last night saying we should do the video just on those Indian Ruins next. That confirms it! LOL..
Hey Tom. Check your engine plate and see if you don't have an 01 at the end of your serial number tag. The 01 means you have different temps on certain things. Look at the operators manual and you will see what I am talking about. You have to look on your actual engine to determine if you have it. We read CHT as Water Temp. I have the 100HP Rotax. I have the 01 on the end of my serial number
Also your Rotax Plugs have 142 inch pound Torque....there is a service Bulletin about that. I have had to dig into some of this stuff, If you don't know about the changes it is really easy to overlook the differences.
Rotax 100ULS Tom, check out op manuel Edition 3 REV 2 Feb 01/2015 page 2-6 look at the Conventional Coolant that says with suffix -01......248 Degrees.....Easy to miss so let me know if you have any other questions.
Hey Roger, have you heard of TCP? It's an additive for 100LL that traps the lead and makes it go harmlessly out the exhaust. Hirth said that is good to use with their engines so I would think that it's good for others as well. That's what I'm going to do with my Aerolite 103 when it gets here next month. Mypilotstore.com in Scottsdale has it.
I sure you did not go running that engine after opening the oil tank and lines to air without following an oil purge procedure that requires 7 to 15 psi air pressure, spark plugs off and special oil fittings on tank. If you did not do that, expect your valves to stick in maybe 300 hours.
I did a lot of research on this. I didn’t let my lines drain. I was informed it’s not necessary to do a purge after this procedure. I’ve done this three times since this video. I have 560 hours more than when I did this video. Main thing is to not turn the prop when you have your hoses disconnected. I used rubber plugs to close off the lines. Do you do a purge when you change your oil filter? Do you pre fill your oil filter? I did a purge when I did my gear box inspection but that is the v only time I have had to do one.
@@larsonadventures580 Not letting the lines drain is a good step but it is not 100% secure because even just a little oil drip means introduction of air. I have a customer in a gyroplane who last year had a engine out after 300 hours of putting a new engine in because he did not do the oil purge. It is a 15 minute procedure with some simple tools. Best to do it when you do this cleaning. You should also use Decalin. Lead buildup in the exhaust is not really a big problem. Just change oil every 30 hours
