A simple jig that's easy to make so it lines up miter joints properly with dowels. Another picture frame build: woodgears.ca/fr... More about doweling: woodgears.ca/fr...
Those layers of hand drawn paper diagrams at the beginning of the video to explain the jig were top notch. Don't need computer animations for everything.
Adding detail to tis frame, that’s where I mess it up! 😅 I’m glad you made a point to explain this further. For someone like me that prefers to work in steel than wood it is really helpful to see this kind of explanation!
Burr relief cut is very elegant solution to decreasing potential misalignment. It seems so simple, but when you did it, I got unreasonably enthusiastic. 😄
Genius! I love how you don't need corner clamps, because the dowels keep everything flush. As always I am amazed at your skills. Love to see you make tools and jigs specific for each project. Especially something I have never seen in a store, a corner dowel jig. Love your relentless pursuit of continuous improvements and THANKS for sharing them with us!
Clever! If the holes are not perfectly square to the cut line when you split the block, they will be misaligned by the amount: kerfwidth * tan(θ) ; and if they aren't parallel they won't be spaced evenly because the different angles will cause different offsets across the kerfwidth. I suggest splitting the block first, then drill the holes so they stay aligned left-right, perhaps tape and superglue to a substrate to drill the holes after splitting. Or just start with 2 blocks.
You saved my ass with that splitting the drill guide trick Matthias. I need to set two stone wings into a quite complicated plane of a stone griffin's body. I'm sure that with a little adaptation this trick will work
If you cut the jig piece with the holes before drilling it, you won't have the saw's kerf contributing to misalignment. If you drill the jig pieces oversized, you can press in a metal bushing for use as a drill guide to prolong the life.
If the two holes are too far out of parallel, the frame will be hard to assemble anyway. Just make the holes parallel enough, and you won't have to worry about the effect of the kerf
@@liambohl that's true, but if the holes are parallel, but not perpendicular to the cut, the final pieces will assemble, but not line up with the corner of the miter due to the kerf.
Cool concept for not having to worry about holes being perfectly positioned. I made a jig for my closet build. And now trying to figure out how to make it adjustable for different materials.
Good to see you in my feed again. Not 20 minutes after watching this video I saw a pack of 100 similar skewers - they look like 5mil - in Safeway for $2.99 USD.
Smarty pants! Nah, its actually a brilliant idea, Matthius. I've just bought a standard dowel jig but this definitely looks like the answer to mitre joints, cheers.
Although you say that the guide holes do not have to be accurate, they do have to be parallel in at least one plane, otherwise the joint will not go together.
Matt, This is a wonderful video and this jig reveals your real genius! Nice to see. It was kind of you to share that tip from John. I've never tried that but it looks interesting! Best Wishes, Tom K.
I kind of use them like "one time use" containers. Fill them up with the remainder of varnish, by the time that's used up, the seal isn't good anymore.
All-thread joining nuts makes for great cheap glue-in-place liners for drill-guides and the already drilled and threaded hole works fairly well as a self-centering guide when drilling out the threads(8mm drill for M8 nut etc) even if you just do it with the nut in a vice and use a battery-drill((using a smaller drill first is better from 6mm and up to get it as straight as possible if you don't have a drill-press/stand).
@@matthiaswandel While stuff like this is something that I would normally 3D print, in wood a hole that is marginally smaller than the largest diameter on the nut it will line itself up rather well in the hole and some polyurethane glue or construction sealant/adhesive(sikaflex/MS-polymer etc) will fill in the gaps and lock it solidly in place(thinking more about dowel/drill jigs in general rather than this one in particular). A joining nut's length is usually slightly shy of 5 times the bolt diameter(2x the diameter on either end + some extra room for leeway) so while a drill press is obviously preferable for drilling it out it is long enough to be fairly well self guiding if you don't have one(a M8 nut is usually 35mm long) so you would have to be rather brutal to see the last half of the length not be lined up/straight/centered well enough when drilling it out with a battery-drill. Ever consider doing some tool/machine builds using laminate flooring as the build material? It's a rather amazing material that is cheap/strong/dimensionally accurate and available everywhere and in many cases its superior to MDF and plywood..
You know you could sleeve those holes with some thin copper (or similar) tubing that would keep them from wallering out. But this is a great idea. I made some similar jigs when doing my cabinets but this idea is much better.
Imagine Mathias’ home. Wife cooking on wooden stove, kids wearing wooden clothes, Mathias ties his wooden tie and hops in his wooden car to go off to work.
VERY nice trick. Doubt you even need to add the 45 degree stopper to the dowel jig, just leave an internal 90 degree angle in the wood above the dowel holes. Thank you!
A clean and easy way to cut bamboo skewers is to score them along the circumference with a knife and simply break them in half. As a bonus, if the knife is not very sharp, the broken off pieces will have chamfered ends
I think that if the holes were significantly out of parrallel when drilling the jig and the dowels were long, you could have trouble inserting the two pieces. But with reasonable clearances on the dowels and holes, and reasonably parrallel holes, the jig will perform well.
Great work and as always easy to watch, thanks. One question, why do you need both pieces? couldn't you just flip the piece to use it for the counter part?
As usual, incredibly clever. (Except this time more than usual IMHO.). Two thoughts. If the dowel holes aren’t more or less parallel, it seems like fitting might be problematic (enough flex in dowels?). Perhaps add a brass sleeve to keep jigs working longer. Thanks for the ideas!
If I drill them with a drill press, they are close enough to parallel without having to think about it. With a hand drill, you'd have to be more careful
If the drill isn't very close to perpendicular when drilling the blocks, like shown in your drawing, you'd have alignment off by half the kerf of the saw blade, wouldn't you? You drilled them on the drill press, so I assume they were quite accurate. I do think it's a good jig.
The problem with bamboo dowels is that bamboo won't absorb an aliphatic resin glue, making it impervious to a glue like Titebond. Any kind of dowel will help a lot with alignment but bamboo dowels won't reinforce the strength of a bond as well as dowels made from a more absorbent wood.
Great alignment tip! People get all excited about biscuit jointers or dominos, but it seems to me some chopsticks and a scrap-wood-alignment-jig does the trick just fine?
Neat little trick to make frames. I wonder if similar connections could be used for bigger frames. For example a frame for a giant maze you could lure mice in!
I'm really fond of rubber cement/contact cement for that: it's removable if used "wet" (ie. rubber cement mode can be peeled up easily, contact cement mode is permanent), doesn't wrinkle or hold the paper up off the backing any, and it's easy to clean any excess from around the edges of the paper being mounted.
@@joelhollingsworth2374 thanks, I'll give that a go! A number of times I've made a nice frame then marred the end result by using whatever glue is to hand to stick the paper to a backing
