Us tree-guys use "eye-and-eye" or "split-tail" prusiks rather than sewn loops mostly for the versatility of hitches you can tie with split tails. We'll also often use bigger diameter cord because we're climbing on half-inch static lines (12.7mm) so anything up to 10mm will still easily bite onto the climbing line, and the bigger the diameter of the prusik, the stronger and more durable it's gonna be. Definitely best to have aramid or at least aramid-sheath like you say. thanks for the videos.
For climbing - always have a 6mm or 7mm accessory cord. I like that I can cut and join it myself to whatever size works for the rope(s) I am using or technique (whether using some PAS or directly to a locking carabiner to the harness). Also - you buy the accessory cord in bulk and use for anything not related to heavy dynamic loads. I always keep a 2m loop in my alpine pack for emergencies (you can make a simple harness, a few backup Prusiks or a couple long ones for rope ascending). When you start seeing any damage to it - just retire it and use it for inventory sorting.
I was doing some research on Aramid (basically Kevlar). They like it on boats because it's tough to cut, high heat resistance, and mostly chemically stable except for Chlorine bleach and hydrogen peroxide. It also does well in water even though it's attracted to water molecules and absorbs it, it doesn't become slippery when wet....Down side is that it degrades in sunlight unless treated. Shock loads are bad for the rope and can become compromised without any signs of damage. Highly recommended to be use in static situations. Knots take away 50 to 80% of strength. Most commercial uses have metal fittings attached to keep from having to use knots.....lol just incase someone was unfamiliar with this stuff like I was.
On sailboats it's mostly Dyneema. UV stable, strong and low stretch. But it stretches / creep under constant static loads. And that's why sometimes Armid is used. But current day Dyneema has mostly solved that with Dyneema DM20.
I use a 5mm polyamide accessory cord for prusiking. It's a little graby but so far it is good when lowering down from an anchor. Takes a bit of time to losen, when weighted. Great video, thanks for the information!
I love the gear video's they are really informative. Have you ever considered doing video's about technique? I would love to hear your take on things like resting, efficiency and maybe other ways to inprove your climbing. Since the process of moving through 6c difficulty is what I'm working on, tips from my favourite underground climbing channel would be great :) keep up the good work!
Thanks for the info, the aramid vs nylon melting point for rappels was super helpful! One more comment about the kernmantle vs hollow block: if you're wanting to use it for progress capture in a mechanical advantage system I've recently found that the hollow blocks often don't mind well even with a minding pulley. So for that use case I've swapped to a kernmantle cord with aramid fiber. YMMV but something to think about
I use a edelrid 6mm aramid sling when sport climbing, I use 5mm dyneema cord slings at work for positioning and tensioning steel cables, and for tree climbing I use 8-10mm heat resistant eye to eye slings, that gives more options for hitches.
Yeah, every time I hear "underground climbing channel" I think the same thing. Alpine style SRT and Industrial rope access are brothers, so you should have no trouble caving for your channel (way back when I did access, it the same except with a second rope with petzl shunt, we even used petzl stops just like the cavers)
Hey man, I just want to say that I've been checking out your videos for a few weeks now going back to years prior (a couple where you said you just started youtubing "last week" at the time) and the quality of your editing, content, everything is super fucking cool to see progress over time. Love your videos, you are helping me work through all sorts of climbing shit and think things through. I appreciate this stuff!! Plus your baby in the videos is just too cute...wayyyy too cute. I know youtubers get a ton a criticism, especially with inherently dangerous activities involved, so I just wanted to drop a positive note. (I've been watching the solo top roping stuff and your video where you [very nicely] took the criticism and improved upon it.) That's good shit.
Speaking of being a tree guy, any ETA for your LOV2 review? There's only a couple rock climbing related reviews of it out there, and they liked it, but I am planning on doing whatever you tell me to do. Thanks, really appreciate the info you're putting out here!
My sister had a brand new Mammut dynema sling she was gonna use as a Prusik. Told her not to waste it, once you've used a sling as a Prusik you should keep it that way. Just gave her a 1 inch webbing to use and later bought her 4ft 6mm accessory cord for $1.79 at REI. Way more cost effective than a sling. Honestly works just as well as all of these.
Kevlar / aramid puzzles me a bit. I know it is abrasive to itself and everything else including anodised aluminium and steel. It clearly works well enough since people decided to use it for prusiks... It might be at a cost of faster wear to the rest of the gear. Anyone knows more on the subject?
I scored an offcuts of the white Aramid. But it's 25 mm by 7 mm. Abseiling guys setup on highrise for safety netting. I should have hot more.much waste. No good for prusik loop on 11 mm rope. I tested it and if you pull hard down , it slips. Maybe on 20 mm static rope? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work!🙂👍👍👍
Aborists don't use those prussic loops, all the loops I've seen have cores. Most are also eye-to-eye so the ends can be clipped to a biner on either side of a micropulleys for easy tending of the line. I wasn't familiar with this coreless stuff so I'm not actually sure why it's not used, my guess is just safety factor for load, abrasion, and heat tolerance since their loops are used all day every day, but again, that's just a guess.
I am a hunter who will soon be trying Saddle Hunting, and I am likely to try the one stick method of climbing that involves rappelling down. My maximum height in the tree will be about 40 feet up. I have ordered Sterling C-IV 9.0 mm Rope and a Mad Rock Safeguard for rappel down. If I wanted to be able to tie prusik knots on that rope (for any of a bunch of different reasons including rappelling down without the Mad Rock Safeguard), is "Sterling 6.8mm HollowBlock2 Loop - Black 13.5"" appropriate for basic prusiks, and is "GM CLIMBING 8mm (5/16in) Prusik Swen Eye-to-Eye Pre-Sewn Heat Resistant Friction Hitch Cord Kevlar & Polyester 30inch" appropriate for VT type prusiks? I ordered these items last week before seeing your informative videos today, and I am hoping that what I purchased will work well. If you recommend I use something else (specific), that is fine.
With grigri like devices you don’t need a back up like a hollow block. Just tie an over hand a couple feet Down from the device, if you want to go hands off. The device self breaks but just in case you can have a knot, incase for some reason it slides. It’s also important to have a stopper knot at the end of your rope so you don’t rappel off the end.
Oh my god. What is happening in that clip where it looks like someone is zip lining between 2 mountains on a carabiner that is disintegrating into thin air…….. and they’re no where near the landing yet? 😂😂😂😂😂is that what that is😂😂😂😂😂… and no gloves…😂😂wtf
@@seanmaguire9950 you can use what ever you want I have an episode where I use shoe laces. The episode was more about talking about the properties of deferent types of ropes and why one may be better. 🤙🏻 Accessory cord is a better choice then shoes laces and Kevlar cored accessory cord is better then just accessory...ect
