I work in rehabilitation of patients with head trauma. They all thought that "it's going to be fine" and "things like that only happen to other people". Until you are lying in that bed, can't speak properly anymore, can't walk and you need to wear diapers because you shit and piss yourself. And then you regret prioritizing "looking cool" over being able to live a normal life. But some mistakes you can't fix once they're made. Don't be like that. Wear the helmet and impress everyone with your mature approach to risk managment.
you all probably dont care but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost my login password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Clay Layne I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I wanted to buy a cheapest climbing helmet in an outdoor store, but when I tried a few helmets I have decided to buy the most expensive one. I absolutely do not regret the money spent though... I can wear that helmet all day without even noticing it.
I think a lot of people don't wear helmets simply because they think it looks dorky. Which isn't really a good excuse, but it is what it is. I also think a lot of people don't want to admit this is their reasoning, so they then come up with secondary reasons related to how the helmet somehow reduces their performance. This is common in pretty much every other "extreme sport," not only climbing. I'm not going to try to exclude myself from the group of people that think this way, I just think it's something to think about. While I have been conditioned to believe helmets are "uncool," I would still encourage people to wear them and would be content with being around people who encourage me to wear one. At that point the environment shifts to one where wearing a helmet is no longer "uncool" and just becomes the expectation. I also think it's interesting to think about the ideas of counter-culturalism in this whole thing. A lot of times these helmeted activities are part of a grander scheme of going against the grain. People who identify as climbers or cyclists or skateboarders or whatever often have the self image of someone who doesn't care what other people think about them. Yet they want other people to think they are cool. Just a meaningless rant, here. There are also other reasons people dont wear helmets besides "coolness," but it seems that people tend to want to not wear the helmet and will magnify smaller reasons to fit their desire to not wear the helmet.
Matt McConaha Good Rant LoL yeah the way I see a helmet is the same as any climbing tool. I use it when I need it. So if I’m climbing in a place where I know there will be loose rocks or some one potentially dropping gear on me or I’m expecting some weird fall. Then I’ll adorn my amor. There definitely are some times you can’t wear a helmet like squeeze chimney climbs. Lol
There are cyclist who figure that they've been riding for 50+ years and never needed a helmet, so why start now... I would be more inclined to wear a helmet while climbing than while riding a bicycle though because things fall from above you more frequently than most people have bicycle accidents.
I've been hit on the head by falling rocks and ice while alpine climbing and I'm 72. Nowadays I always feel awkward sport climbing with a helmet when my younger friends wont use them because of the Dork factor in photos. But I have 2 friends who have permanently damaged brain injuries that maybe a helmet would have prevented it. Dress your helmet up like you do your car with cool stickers and Buddha eyes.
i don't wear a helmet, i rationalize it by me not doing a lot of volume on risky stuff, and generally being a more safety conscious climber, i do wear one while cycling though, critically falling on the head just has a way higher risk there
I have to say I have seen some crazy ru-out on easy climbs outdoors. I bring nuts for some of those routes because when the first bolt is 7m off the ground and the second one is at 15m you don't want to fall. the craziest thing about that is its on the "beginner" routes like 5.4 to 5.7
Years ago, decades actually, I ended up involved in the rescue of a boulderer that fell nine feet off of an overhang hitting his head and taking what should have been a fatal injury. No helmet of course. The hit knocked him unconscious AND he occluded his airway. In other words, he wasn't going to wake up. Fortunately, his partner was a Paramedic and opened his airway. The head injury would have killed him anyway, but he got evacuated to the hospital and underwent emergency brain surgery.
Well you've convinced me to buy a helmet. I've never been worried about image. I worked in a Skatepark for 8 years and wore a helmet every day. Time to get a climbing helmet. Also, great content I've subbed.
Awesome thanks! There are two schools of thought on climbing helmets super light weight or heavier duty ones. Just go with what ever feels like it suits your needs. would be worth asking some questions when you pick one out. Honestly youtube is what got me to wear my climbing helmet. Its the best way to mount my gopro lol Happy climbing.
@@BetaClimbers Do climbing helmets protect from both fall impact and rock fall? I've noticed some are what I'd compare to cycle/skate helmets with full eps foam and either a hard shell or soft shell. Then some are more like what I'd know as a hard hat, with less eps foam around the sides.
Richard Roberts right exactly some cut down for less safety to save weight. For those climbers that are pushing the limit on the hard sport routes they care a lot more about weight than let’s say a big wall climber that is much more worried about dropped gear from the parties above. I use a hard shell helmet you can prob see me using it in some videos. (GoPro sticks best to hard plastic lol ) But I am interested in just getting me a foam one. Think this is actually a great video topic idea 🤣
Here is how that happens. You have finished climbing for the day, you go up and remove your nice equalized anchor and need to abseil down. Those hangers are sharp as hell so you decide to leave a sacrificial biner as to not cut the rope while abseiling. You think that one hangar isn't enough for some reason so you want the other one in the system as well. Abseil down on the two ends, no rope friction because the rope doesn't move. How would you do it?
I feel like bolting outdoors is very different than bolting in gyms. In gyms it's usually 4ft max. Outside it kinda depends on the bolting culture of the area. 6-8ft is normal where I climb. Sometimes more. Also some older routes are really meant to be mixed sport and trad, which really screws up the sport only people that are expecting that if something is bolted then it's meant to be climbed only with bolted protection. I know of routes that have 20ft+ gaps between bolts because they expect you to use trad gear in between.
In my opinion the first video was mainly the climbers fault (not the belayer). I can't see it exacly but it seems that tries to clip very high with an extended arm and faling just before clipping. Resulting in a lot of slack. Thats why it is recomended to clip when the bolt is at your chest level. (With several exceptions...)
The American death triangle was actually safe because it wasnt an American death triangle. It was a rappel off 2 bolts which is actually sound for a rappel, the legs if the triangle are significantly long so the angles approach 90 degrees the as the climber moves down the strands. The forces are multiplied if the rap device is close to the bolts but by the time the bolts are loaded, the force multiplication is near 1, therefore insignificant.
I just did the math, the multiplication of the force on each bolt is 1/cos((pi+theta)/4) where theta is the angle between the two strands attached to the weight, if we solve for the limit as theta approaches zero, the multiplication of the force on each bolt only comes out to 1.4 ish. With the only force being the force of the climber’s body on the rappel, that anchor is totally safe. If that was for top roping, Id advise those gumbies to get a new rope at the end of the day but for a rap, it is perfectly safe and redundant enough.
If it was a top rope anchor, it would not be an American death triangle because it would not be a triangle, it would just be a big abrasive rope rubber with the same force multiplication, but seeing as how it is just 2 carabiners, this is likely a rappel, not a climbing anchor
My gym tried to ban helmets because people kept leaving then my the Boulder area and people would fall on them. Then 2 people got a concussion doing lead and they’re aloud again. However if they find them in the bouldering area they confiscate them
The “death triangle”, they should have put a rope between those two carabiners (with proper slack), so the load is vertical, and then tie a rope to that system?
climbing is all about freedom and choices... my choice is to not wear helmet on sport routes but I'll always wear one for trad and multipitch. It's personal decision and not something that should be compulsory.
For the first one if you read the comment by it it points out that his belayer fed him some slack as he was falling accidentally. He also says he was fine but it still hurt
Yeah I don’t see a point to it, if you are going to bolt it, bolt is right, Or leave it a top rope. I don’t think gym climbing and outside are the same. I was raised climbing outside, I don’t think there where many indoor gyms when I was a kid actually. Lol but anyway I have put up X rated FA’s, I wouldn’t have put any bolts on those, you just run it out. If some one wants to go repeat it and not die they can top rope it.