If you do this, DON'T do it wrong! 

You don't necessarily have had to drop something. bailing from the 8th pitch on a multipitch takes a lot of gear. The less you leave the more likely you are to actually get to the ground. My multipitch instructor told me that they had to bail on a really long norweigan multipitch. They left the entire $1200 trad rack on the way down and still had to rappel from some pretty sketchy setups.

thanks for the vids!

@jordanjohnson6288 Can you please elaborate on how a prusik would prevent the deck if the bolt I’m lowering off of blows? I understand the use of prusik as a third hand while rappelling, and I always use a third hand for better control on my rappelling.. But I’m not able imagine how that can prevent the fall if the bolt itself blows..

@tdpandya007 the prussik would "short-cut" the big loop of rope between you and next quickdraw below you, so that you get caught by it as if it was a lead fall. This is a standard technique to avoid getting down on a single point.

Is that not the same as the normal approach to abseiling down with a prusik to hold the rope?

​@@DuncanAtkinson No, because this isn't abseiling. It's being lowered by a belayer.

Ah yes of course thanks ​@@thomasdalton1508

Great point.

Damn, same thing happened to me, and also on the first time i tried it for real on a multi-pitch route. I had to climb back again on the other end of the rope to get the sling unstuck, and ended up sending that f***ing next pitch because there no way in hell i would try this trick again. Good way to muster up courage i guess hehe

Thanks, will do!

Just to add to this: when we talk about not weighting soft goods over sharp edges, if you can't cut your thumb on it, it's not a sharp edge you need to worry about.

@@Grethko I would really hope your a being sarcastic.

@@kiefmanning7394 about what?

@@Grethko lmao I nearly died repelling over an edge that did not seem sharp because the nature of the decent required moving side to side sawing on the rope.

@@bobbypatton4903 yeah, I would say use your judgment with stuff like this. Just going over the edge may be OK, but side to side is definitely no no 😁. The biggest problem with this kind of systems is people not analyzing stuff. To me it is perfectly safe to rappel off, but some dummies will then try to top rope on this 😂🤣😂

That’s why I have the lab literally inside my house now. I broke the sling in my socks! Now my turn around time is measured in hours not months haha

@@HowNOT2 Break test on your socks next?

Flad you got some value. That was was the goal of publishing the video.

I wondered if this was a good solution for trees or if canyoneers use it

I have a dedicated tree anchor, webbing and two sizes of rap rings, replaces the tag line with a stopper knot that catches the small ring. But I essentially use this technique as my default tree anchor.

That was our thought.

I've also heard it's usually too expensive to replace a life. The carabiner is probably cheaper. But I haven't checked.

@@error.418 The one thing that no amount of money can ever truly replace.👍

You're noticing that too!? It's crazy it's happening on niche aspects of these sports and not just broad stroke basics.

Funny, I was thinking the complete opposite. It feel a bit "robotic" and really feel like it's dubbed.

@@Frecky123 it definitely sounds less natural, less like you're in the room with him. I personally feel it sounds more professional and is easier on the ears, especially with headphones, but I can see how you could disagree

Yeah tbh I miss the scuffed audio lmao

It sounds dubbed and i don't like it. At 8:20 you can hear a lot more of the room, maybe he records voice separately with lav mic, which makes it sound like that. Or maybe it is some overdone effect in post.

@@JGnLAU8OAWF6 at first i also thought the audio was tons better but repeating the video a couple times it feels like the cutoff is a tiny bit too early making the silence "off". I love that the production of these videos is constantly getting better !

I've cut a tree down with paracord.

if it's just a bolt without a ring, it's going to add a lot of friction and greatly increase the chance to get stuck, not to mention the extra wear on the rope and bolt. Just use a quick link.

I don't like people using it. Why would I show people how? -Bobby

it also only reduces your rappel height by half your rope length rather than by two thirds, so the chances of your being able to reach the next anchor down greatly increase.

Try watching the video next time.

...provided you have a rope and a sling on you?

Ryan@slackline.com and I’ll send you the raw video on gdrive.

Much easier to lose your rope to a single twist

By not attaching it directly to a bolt it seems there was more absorbtion in the system and so maybe a bit less friction then a real scenario.

Trango

if there's tension on it to stop it rotating through whatever it's anchored to, and you're on a super good enough foothold so you don't slip and expose the open gate to a weird crossload, then yes, it's safe. A 25kN biner with an open gate is still rated at anything from 6-10kN.

Like downclimbing? It works great when you’re not close to your limit… but if you’re not close to your limit you maybe have other options too

Down climbing you mean? I had to do it on a multi pitch where my follower was unable to get up the first pitch, and unwilling to let me pull them up since we were having a hard time communicating due to wind noise I couldnt talk them through any of the techniques to get them up to me. The climb started along the top of a steep scree slope and meandered diagonally toward the downhill section through the pitches, By the time you got to the first belay station you were now 70m above the ground and no where near the actual rap stations. So my 60m rope didnt get me anywhere near the ground even if I fixed my line and rappelled on a single strand. My only option was to downclimb a sketchy polished slab lead. Was it fun? Not at all. Did it get me and all my gear off the mountain safely? Yes. When I'm at the gym we will climb up and downclimb our warmup routes. one it's a great workout that uses different movement than going up. And second point, it made me comfortable enough to get me out that day. Would i do it again? Yes

6mm static cord (like from a quad anchor) for sure is strong enough and would have better abrasion resistance. A hollowblock is actually pretty weak and breaks at a low force so can't recommend using one of those

@@pierceklinke13 The hollow block is ready to 13 kN. Some of the earlier versions did seem to break at suspiciously low loads when they were old and really worn out and had a lot of grip in the sand in them. Supposedly the newer ones mitigate this problem, but 13 kN should give you some confidence. You are correct in your answer to Anton, 6 mm cord is totally fine to bail from.

@@johngodino4374 yeah that what I was more referencing is depending on how old and worn your hollowblock is they can be significantly weakened. I've seen a friend of mine, who is an IFMGA guide, break one with his bare hands

Yes, this is even what is taught in alpine climbing in Netherlands. Alternatively, always bring a cheap 6 mm D-shape shackle. Have done the 6 mm cord trick multiple times, worst is more really the hook where you are going to hang it in. Hence always have some 6mm cord for prussik and for rope up climbing.