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Climbing in Portland? Respect the Rock 

BMC TV
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Thinking of heading to Portland to climb? Don’t forget our top tips:
Parking is limited in places on Portland - always make sure you park sensibly so you don’t affect others
There are plenty of crags to explore away from the usual suspects - give a new crag a go
The marine environment can cause bolts to corrode more quickly than normal. Check every bolt before you commit to it and don’t forget to donate to the Dorset Bolt Fund bolt fund to help support their work in replacing old bolts with shiny new ones.
Check the www.thebmc.co.uk/rad for access information on everything from restrictions nesting birds to where to park
There can be loose rock so consider wearing a helmet when climbing or walking along the bottom of crags
Climbing outdoors can feel pretty different to the wall so it’s worth dialling down your grade a little to get used to the style of climbing on limestone
It can get hot on the south coast - take plenty of water on sunny days
Make sure you have the right kit - 14 draws and a 60m rope should do it. A clipstick can be really useful too and don’t forget to tie a knot in the end of your rope.
Make a habit of doing buddy checks on knots and belay devices every time before you climb - it could save your life.
Don’t top rope directly through the anchors - make sure you use you own quickdraws to minimise wear on the lower off
Pay careful attention to re-threading the lower off - if you’re not sure what to do, check out our instructional video at www.thebmc.co.uk/loweroff and practice until you are confident before you leave the ground.
Don’t wild or van camp on Portland - it’s bound to strain relationships with local people and landowners. Head home or back to camping on the mainland at the end of each day.
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co.uk/join

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10 июн 2020

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Комментарии : 11   
@vault_climbing
So many good points here, thank you BMC for looking out for our climbing areas - can't say enough appreciation for you, and the Dorset Bolt fund.
@masterpropper2485
@masterpropper2485 Год назад
Gotta say, I would really appreciate it if the BMC would show more of the respective area in their "Respect the Rock" series.
@6darkness6eternal6
@6darkness6eternal6 4 года назад
Can't stress that first point enough. There are so many better crags to explore than the cuttings.
@SWISSPOWERJET
@SWISSPOWERJET 4 года назад
perfect tip thanks
@TheClimbingNomads
@TheClimbingNomads 4 года назад
Does this mean that the BMC is no longer suggesting to avoid climbing on Portland as per the guidance issued on the first easing of lockdown?
@gpropeaccessltd3843
@gpropeaccessltd3843 4 года назад
I read a long article on UKC from someone that lives in Portland and also fights for crag access rights. His opinion was that climbers were absolutely not welcome on Portland and that it could set back access rights that he and others have worked so hard for. Have these restrictions imposed by the locals been lifted now?
@sssfulton
@sssfulton 4 года назад
According to BMC interpretation of the government guidelines, there is exactly one alternative to wild camping (which isn't allowed), and that is to go home.
@richardeden1453
@richardeden1453 4 года назад
You forgot to mention rappling off anchors with no lower offs. In order to stop wear on the bolts. As its costs time and money to replace those bolts.
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