How To Set Up A Top Rope Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1761 

Rapelling

I second this

More coming soon!

book a course. If you life in that area - he seems to be a decent trainer and you should book with him :)

His name is Trevor Massiah

I would definetely NOT want to see a video on this, because people might think they can replicate what they saw in that video. I highly recommend to take a trainer or book a climbing course to learn that.

@@chaosengine4597 while thats true, if no professional is going to do such videos then someone might upload one where they show it even wrongly, so it would still be better if there was one done by a professional instructor like this guy.

I would love to see a proper in-depth video on this. Showing different types of anchors, and how to correctly set up, clean and lower off a route. There’s already loads of sub par confusing videos and I believe Climbing Daily has the skills to put together a really comprehensive version!

@@chaosengine4597 I learnt how to clean a route from RU-vid, and after many many times doing so I'm still alive and not had any close calls, just double check as I go.

@@damiensmith8351 probably you are smart. Not all people are smart though. But overall I think you cannot avoid those videos. So maybe EpicTV is a good option then to have the good ones.

Right I wouldn't feel safe doing this way but isn't there many ways of setting up a bolted TR anchor? Like 2 quickdraws, building a quad or other rope/sling anchor that would be safer.

Not *more*. The anchor hanger using the carabiner is the ***ONLY*** piece of hardware that is loaded. The quickdraw is taking 0 load. This...is not a "textbook" video. If you're going to go simple - a long (17cm) quickdraw and a short (12cm) quickdraw with some lockers on the rope ends wouldve likely done a more balanced job. but do to the anchor placement, if you want eqaulized, youre going to need to create an anchor: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xzw9ZT-J71E.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2

There is enough redundancy that its ok

@@ccolagio_ That makes sense. I was thinking it was the positioning of the bolts, they looked a little off.

It really depends on the area and the local customs. I prefer to use my own gear and will always do do.

Yep that's the fundamental way sport climbing works. You clip your gear (called quickdraws) on one bolt (anchor is usually reserved for the top two installed points) at a time until you get to the top of the route where you anchor and lower or if possible walk off safely.

i was wondering which knot this is... is it considered as safe as the figure eight?

@@davidarbinger3543 It is an equaly safe knot, just not as easy to check. Very common here in Germany. The main benefit is that it is always easy to untie even after a big fall.

@@johannessporer so like the "doppelter bulin" (sorry dont know the english word)

@@davidarbinger3543 "Bulin" schreibt man Bowline und spricht bulin ;) das ist also der gleiche Knoten

@@johannessporer kk aber beim genaueren betrachten schaut der nicht wie ein doppelter bulin aus, sondern wie ein yosemite bulin

I am not an expert but I normally tends to use 7 mm cordelette and get a double seft-equalizing setup, this is very strong (clip only 3 of the 4 strands). Looks better for me to equalized forces on both anchor and also use locked carabiner (quickdraw is quick and easy to use but it is not locked).

Bit late with my reply. As long as the system is redundant and equalized the double draw method is fine. I personally have a pre-tied quad for setting tr anchors and live by it. It’s especially nice for anchor like the one in this video where one bolt is higher than the other because it has no problem equalizing if anchor is long enough

There are much better bolt options out there, time to chop those MacPretzl time-bombs and replace with quality anchors. Ha ha.

clickup

Take a drill and put a 2nd one next to it. :D

@@onzeit1822 not allowed due to the ethics...chains and multiple bolts have to much visual impact. Many crags are in nature reserves where you have to find a compromise between different interests. Leaving quickdraws for more than a session is also not allowed.

@@johannessporer Oh I didn't know. I was following parts of the Frankenjura bolt debate but wasn't aware that a 2nd bolt at the top would be considered a problem for those reasons. That argument is ridiculous considering some bolts recently failed.

@@onzeit1822 Yea it's always a bit scary. But most areas in the southern part of Frankenjura (f.e. Altmühltal were developed in the early 80s where safety was measured quite different to nowadays. It is also common that the first bolt is higher than 7m and bolt distances are over all very long and many routes are kind of mixed trad when you don't want to deck from 10m...

@@johannessporer Definitely keeps the crowds away...

There isn't a good reason to not use the ring. Especially when the bolts aren't equalised it helps to use a combination like he did. There are even places where the hanger isn't designed to be clipped and you should clip the ring. Check out what certified guides are saying and not randoms on youtube comments. www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-clip-a-ring-anchor?fbclid=IwAR1KIPm3NL_-o270oNBCogAmD9k1yFqUWIvbaSw0JZt4qgJ6lABXE7W5DYk

@@joffyjenkins9241 I am a certified trainer, trained in a certified university course by certified instructors here in Austria. And I wrote "I would have..." as there is no real standard on it. My reason is that the ring should be used for textile only _in my opinion_ (and as I was trained) because metal on metal could lead to micro cuts/edges, potentially damaging the mantle of ropes and therefore lowering their duration. Yes, I am a "random guy on the internet". That's why I always recommend to go to a decent local climbing school / Alpine society or similar and get proper training. Cheers.

​@@chaosengine4597 Ah great then you have an even bigger responsibility to stay up to date and not perpetuate myths. www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/debunking-anchor/climbing-myths-part-1 I mean, using ally biners on a steel ring is not going to damage them, a bit of material science goes well in this case. And even if it did (it doesn't), have you seen the wear from rope friction detailed even in this video? Any "micro cut" is going to be long gone with even minimal use.

@@joffyjenkins9241 the article you sent is for multi-pitching, not for building top-rope stations for your friends or climbing trainees in sports climbing. Also, the site seems to be hosted by one US guy (I cannot judge his proficiency). Sorry, but I stay up to date through other sources like the excellent publications in "bergundsteigen" (only in German, but I know who is discussing topics and the arguments behind assumptions put there). Yes, I try to stay up to date as much as possible (e.g. the discussion on tuber-style belay devices in the last years has been extremely interesting). But please take into account that "my way" on building a top-rope anchor is not wrong, just because it is different to how you do it. It is just how I do it and you don't need to change my mind on this for any reason.

@@chaosengine4597 ​ It makes no difference, bolts are bolts and metal is metal. One US guy, who then goes on to quote, question or report on multiple world wide instructors with various worldwide certifications. I am not saying what you are doing is wrong, in some circumstances it could even be the better thing to do. What I am saying is wrong is you perpetuating myths. The simple answer is that there is nothing wrong with clipping on rings, so why comment when someone does when there is no evidence for your claims?

its not really an anchor though.. just like taking whipper on a quickdraw the bolt and carabiner will most likely be fine and then there's the redundancy of the other draw taking no load. also on top rope there will be almost no loading apart from the climbers bodyweight

He talked about it. It is 99% equalized. 5:45

@@onzeit1822 That's redundancy, not equalization.

@@Johannes1321 Totally correct! Not equalized but redundant with very little added dynamic force in case of faliure of bolt no. 1. So, in this set-up, just as good as a belay with a chain I'd say.

Right, he putting all the weight in just one bolt. The weight should be distributed as equal as possible on both bolts. People has to remember to use a lifeline, all the time for any procedure.

How do you do to equalise the anchors then ?

You can do PAS both ways. Oftentimes people will do belay loop for single pitch and hard points for multi.

I appreciate these climbers and theire commentary about climbing safety.

while this would be the best option in terms of wear on the in situ gear, it's often unpracticle. If I need to clean 5-6 routes at the end of a course, there simply is not enough time. As often in climbing, it's about adapting to the given situation :)

If you talk to people who develop areas and are the ones bolting and maintaining the permanent gear, a lot of them will say that the slight decrease in wear and tear is not worth the greater risk of injury that comes with rappelling. If you're comfortable doing it, then by all means go for it, but they place rings and links and easy to replace gear with the intention that the last climber lower off. The vast majority I've talked to would rather swap out some grooved gear occasionally than have even one rappelling fatality.

@@slimpanther02 Fair point to you and @chaosengine ; it is true that under time constraints, rappelling is unpractical in the best of times. And it is quite true that if one does not have the proper skill set to rappel, getting lowered down is the best option.

@@slimpanther02 are you an enormocast listener?

@@rodrigotellez2962 In my opinion leave rappeling for the multipitch routes, use lowering for single pitch routes and downclimbing for free Solo ascents

"It can decrease rope wear when used as an anchor point when top roping." DMM site about the Revolver biner.

The Revolver is NOT designed for use on zip wires, Tyrolean traverse, top roping or other situations where prolonged use could cause damaging build up of heat. 14.1 WARNING The Revolver is designed as the rope clipping carabiner in a quick draw set. The roller’s surface can be damaged if the Revolver is clipped to wires, bolts and pegs. This in turn could cause damage to a rope. Always ensure the Revolver is clipped in the correct orientation (refer to pictograms). content.dmmwales.com/DMMWales/Media/ProductInstructions/LanguageGroupsCombined/INS-Revolver-G1G2.pdf

@@henriktengelin8875 I think you forgot to interpret what you cited. My interpretation is, that DMM will not take any responsibility. But the Revolver is perfectly safe to use as part of a redundant top-rope setup. It's funny that DMM contradicts themselves product-page vs. safety sheet.. bit yeah whatever. Armchair experts want to hear they're right, I guess.

What's your argument with "sorry, this guy..." anyway? You can't take him seriously? That's ridiculous. Also quite entertaining. I often wonder how so many youtube users think of themselves as knowledgeable enough to proove wrong professionals.

Trevor seems awesome. Look forward to seeing more from him.