Climbing Kit Review: Why You NEED A Kong Gigi Belay Device. Maybe! 

You always need new climbing gear.

I’ve been watching your videos since covid, and I am invariably pleased with how you frame and talk about gear/systems. I recommend your videos to all my students/mentees just because of the way you address multiple aspects of an issue. You rock and are greatly appreciated🤘

“I’m gonna keep using it, but if I never had to use it again, I’d be okay” lol Love your content, you’ve motivated me to stay hard on social media stuff

Climbing Technology makes two similar devices as well. The Crocodile goes from 7.7 - 9 mm (twin/double) and 8.5 - 11 mm (single) and 9 -12 mm (static) whereas the GiGi goes from 8 - 13 mm (doesn't seem to distinguish between rope type, although says it's for twin/double/single). The Croc is shaped the same as the GiGi, for the most part; it doesn't appear to have the "bulge" on the one side, however. They also have the Groove. It goes from 7.7 - 9 mm (twin/double) and 8.9 - 10.5 mm (single). It has a different shape on one side, which allows you to get more friction when abseiling (rappelling/rapping); "two lower braking grooves allow for rope positioning to adjust abseil speed." Definitely not needed, especially since one should probably be using a third hand (prusik), either way, but I think it's a nice to have extra feature. It DOES appear to have the "bulge". Without testing each of the devices side-by-side and for general rock climbing purposes, so not rescue scenarios or static rope stuff, I'd say the Groove is the best device all around; at least on paper. Then again, the Groove looses a point for weight. It weighs 85g, the Croc weighs 65g and the GiGi weighs 62g (or 68g depending on which site you look at). It should be noted that the GiGi has a Titanium version, which isn't, it's Aluminum Allow with silver Titanium color they call Titanium. All devices mentioned above are Hot-Forged. The Camp OVO, which doesn't appear to be listed on their site anymore, so may be discontinued, weighs 58g and is for ropes 8 - 9 mm (double) and 10 - 11 mm (single); according to WeighMyRack. There are also larger devices that appear do similar things, plus a bit more: Grivel Shuttle (belay "organizer" for tethering; could beat out the CT Groove, since it's roughly the same weight and is intended for guides with multiple climbers), Kong Full (also has a belay "organizer" for tethering), Edelrid Mago 8 (adds figure 8), Sterlin ATS (adds figure 8), Rock Exotica Totem (adds figure 8) and a smaller device that is for alpine rappeling on super tiny ropes and does have guide mode, but, umm, alpinists do alpine things (Grivel Scream). I'm sure there are others, and each device has it's pros and cons and little eccentricities, but that's the main gist of it.

Great device. Invaluable on frozen ropes, when tubular devices simply don't work. But, just like you, I generally only carry it in summer when I'm going to be guide mode'ing two people, I'm the only one leading all day, and there's (almost) zero chance I'll need to lower them.

I like it a lot. Especially when I lead every pitch. So much smoother.

I'd be interested in a review of the totem as a comparison, looks great, fig8 as well as double slots so could be a really versatile tool for someone who occasionally descends on old fat ropes, belays a pair, abseils half ropes etc. Obviously no tool is a 'do everything' but that with the GigaJul could be a close match. I did a route underground a while back, nobody could fit the static rope into their device so it was munter/Italian hitch into a Kayak. Fun route.

I’m not a guide, and have never belayed two climbers at once. But this is my go-to multi pitch device for the leader, as it’s just such a pleasure to use. Get a round stock HMS biner in there as the blocker and it’s the smoothest thing in the world. And the weight savings is meaningful because there is no need to carry more than one device. The system is that the follower gives a lead belay with a grigri or atc, and the leader belays the follower with the gigi. If swapping leads, you swap devices. If block leading, the leader hangs onto the Kong. For the descent, the person with the Grigri raps on single strand, followed by the person with the Gigi on both strands.

My elbows used to hurt for ten years (triceps tendinitis), and only lately have i figured out that pulling more with the index finger balances out my pulling movement so it doesn't strain my elbow. I think this makes sense because the index finger has an flexor muscle to itself, so if it's not flexing enough then you get extra load on the other flexor muscle connecting to the middle, ring, and pinky finger. So I just try to get a tighter grip on holds like I'm using a pull up bar - and i bring the thumb up also like on a pull up bar. It's almost like you're trying to overgrip. It's helped me anyway, and I'm breaking a 10 year plateau. That and gym climbing more frequently with shorter sessions.

My dream device is a basic atc guide-like device but when belaying from above it does not add extra friction. So its essentially a gigi+atc all in one, weighting almost the same as a regular atc.

I like the grivel scream over the camp version (haven’t tried the King version), but it’s for much smaller ropes

A couple of years ago I bought the ovo (similar device mentioned above) because a guy I was climbing with had a prerigged anchor on his harness including such a „classic“ belay plate. I was impressed by how fast he could rig an anchor because of his belay device already being attached. I ended up never using it because I got confused about the proper handling and i wasn’t able to find good instruction (didn’t see the guy again). So thanks a lot for your explanation, I might use it now, weren’t it for the giga jul I bought recently. I wanted to get rid of my second belay device I carried for abseiling in conjunction with the giga jul for lead belaying. 😂

Hey JB love your videos. I'm going for my first climbing trip abroad in italy next week, i'm all set for climbing things, i'm sweating the small stuff though, finger maintenance, hydration, the "nice to haves" stuff, what tips would you recommend? would like to see a video on it

I tried one of these a couple of years ago and rules it out. We test it out in guide mode (on a climbing tower for testing) and found that releasing it under load was virtually impossible without setting up a sling redirect. A DMM Pivot was sooooo much easier to lower. As you say, if you expect to lower then use something else every time.

I can see that being useful for a spare belay plate in case someone drops one on a multipitch, or if you're the only one leading. Having that to save weight to belay a follower up, and they belay you on a grigri or something. I may pick one up just to play with it, but I pretty much live by ATCs at this point.

Oh I’ve been hoping for a video about this. I already often carry an atc guide as well as a megajul to reduce friction belaying the second since I get sore elbows and shoulders if not. If this is even less friction that would be awesome. Now to the video to see if it’s worth trying.

Another advantage is that there is no risk of dropping the Gi-Gi while rappelling, vs risk of fumbling the ATC. Great for getting down a big multi pitch.

This is the perfect thing if you're a klutz and have maybe dropped your ATC halfway up a long multipitch once or twice

Always such great vibes, fimling, beta and music every episode, love it! Could I ask what dog breed the boy is? I've been searching for my dream dog breed for years now and I think he's the one ahaha. I clould never think of the breed name. Thanks, love your vids so much, cheers from Canada ☺

I’m going on my first multi pitch soon and trying to find the best belay setup. I’m thinking about getting my partner and myself each a DMM Pivot so that it can belay from below, above, lower if need be, and rappel. I was thinking about the GIGI but am I right that the Pivot is a good cover all?

I have a thought I've been kicking around, it has to do with direct belaying a leader off an anchor, the preferred method seems to be an Italian Hitch, I was thinking about using an old figure of 8 device, any thoughts? It puts less twists in the rope, and might be okay for belaying up a second on half ropes.

Isn't that just a stitch plate? ie. the precursor to a tube or bug belay device.

With the megajul in guide mode, we also add the 2 strands in the locking biner. Is it not necessary for the gigajul ?

They should make it thinner so you can keep it in your wallet!