I mean it's not THAT bad... 

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I have recently learned this anchor on a climbing course in Poland. It's called "butterfly" here.

In Italy that is called "balanced fixed anchor" and regularly used and taught in alpine club courses. Some people refer to it also as "english fixed anchor".

I'm literally never going to climb in my life but I love these videos!

I mean, here in Poland this is actually pretty common anchor. I tie it pretty often when points are close together and I have a free 60 cm in my rack

Love swamp anchors. I've used them quite a bit on multi pitch sport and ice routes over the past year.

I regularly use a SWAMP if I need to get something up fast or with just shoulder length runners. Additionally, you can adjust the knot between the two points to equalize or adjust the direction of pull.

My climbing buddy who is my mentor loves using these. He likes to use 1 swamp anchor for the belay and a 2nd swamp anchor for tying in. It's pretty efficient

I use a SWAMP anchor anytime I need to get more from less equipment. Works great, super good enough and super easy to rig. I also like the girth hitch MP.

I like the simplicity of the SWAMP and have been waiting for it to show up in a load test. Thanks!

Been curious about this anchor for a while. Thanks for testing it. Definitely another tool in the toolbox.

It is crazy watching the knots slip and compress under load. I like how you did all of those permutations of different scenarios which seemed quite thorough. Excellent video! 👍

Ryan, your channel is the best. That's all I have to say. Very thorough.

In Poland we call it butterfly-anchor as the two loops look a bit like the butterfly wings ;)

I use this often because it's soo easy to roll the knot to make it equalised rather than untying a overhang/fig eight masterpoint

I used it at the Index Town Wall yesterday. Just learned it a few months ago. Great video (as usual)!

Hi, At 3:41, it would have been interesting to let the sling 90% cut (10% uncut), to see how it reacts to a kind of "real sling failure"… Same with the drop tower… Anyway, I used a lot this king of anchor on trad climbing (in France, i'm french). Mainly cause the capability for the node to roll as a "shock absorbing and self equalizing node". but now, i use a dynamic rope. Better for both (shock and equalize).

I really need to send you guys some money, I get so much good information from this channel it’s really criminal that I haven’t yet! Keep doing what you do!

It’s great for ice anchors. Put in a screw, measure one sling length down and 30ish degrees off plumb, put in second screw there minus a tiny bit, attach with this style of anchor. Minimal, equalized anchor with screws safely separated.

In Poland we call it 'the butterfly anchor' since it creates kind of butterfly wings to which you clip your carabiner.

Sold me on switching to nylon when I use this type of anchor. Thanks Ryan!

Liked the subtle rope dressing correction. Very nice dad move. 👍

Yep, a guide taught me this anchor when rapping a 7 pitch route years ago. I use it often now.

It's been around for a long time. originally Repartitateur Vertaco (Vertaco equaliser) from the Vercours.

GET OUT OF MEH SWAMP

love using this knot when im making anchors with 60cm slings

Knowing the swamp is a perfect compliment to the quad anchor. If you're sport climbing with a dyneema sling pre-rigged as a quad and its hard to loosen the knots to adjust for different bolted anchors you can sometimes just clip both sides of one knot to minimize your extension, like a swamp with an extra overhand not in use. Still full strength, still redundant, when used at the right time can be mostly equalized, and most importantly for sport climbing it should require no retying to your pre-rigged quad so it's fast!

I love this anchor when I only have a 60 and 120 sling to join 3 cams. I’ll use a swamp with the two close cams and then bring it all together with a bok with a 120 bringing the swamp and the third cam.

well, i guess since my acrophobia has lessened, and i've become a huge knot and splicing nerd with all my hammocking and sailboat rigging, i'm gonna have to get out and climb. and it only took watching a handful of your videos to convince me! xD thanks for the great work!

I use them a lot on sport. Primary advantage is easy to set when the anchors are different heights, but I'm using the girth-x a lot more too.

I like this anchor for protecting cruxy trad moves when the protection is questionable. Plug two pieces and equalize. You should retest with the knot not in the middle. Two different sized loops. Wings great in cracks

I like the nylon version. With dyneema, I view it as "plan B". The knot may overheat in a fast scenario (there's no heat sink carabiner).

I first learned and started using this 30+ years ago. I called it the magic overhand (as opposed to the "magic X" which isn't redundant and can shock load an anchor). I think SWAMP knot is a little misleading because you still have a master point where you can clip in multiple carabiners. With a girth hitch, the carabiner or rap ring becomes the master point which is fine, but it uses one more piece of gear.

I've never used a SWAMP anchor. I think I'll give it a go next time I'm out there. As long as my Sharpie middle mark on my rope stays super good enough.

Id love to see tests with more of "shock" loads like in a fall, as compared to these that slowly and steadily increase in force.

That knot still looks easier to open than my bag of bread when I'm hungry

Have you ever tested the belayer's hitch for strength? It takes less cord/ rope and is easier to untie after loading; and is easier to not screw up. And if you stop in the middle and clip the right spot; there is an easier way to tie the Munter Hitch than normally taught.

I have a test suggestion i think you guys haven't done yet. It's quite usual to get rope kinks either climbing sport or multipitch. What about doing some rope test with a kinked rope? Cheers!

can you create a shock load failure? put some 1-3mm cord for you "cam" so it loads and releases.

Of very little utility to me as a climbing arborist, but i do use nylon and dyneema slings, so i guess theres always something to learn.

Would have loved to see if it bares more load when cut with a figure 8 knot.

When you cut one, was it when you already had a load on it?

in france, we call it relais italien, meaning, italian belay station

My klimbing monitor teach me this anchor. But whith a dynaloop, it's will be good to see this test with a dynaloop from beal.

I wish there were some way to test how easy it is to cut a sling with falling rocks. I witnessed a 16mm sling get half-cut by 100 lbs of sharp limestone chunks falling from 20' above, in a pretty catastrophic event set off by a human. Fortunately I wasn't at the sling; if I had been, probably the cut sling would be a secondary worry.

I'm happy with my quad using mammut magic slings. Any reason to change? The weight I suppose.

I don't climb on bolts so I won't often rig this way, but I am happy to do it and use it sometimes myself. I didn't even realise this was unusual or needed testing, why don't more people just keep things simple like this. Simple = Good. The 9.51 for a failed anchor worries me (but most of my anchors probably won't hold for 9.51 anyway!!)

Pretty much only use these....dead simple and versatile....especially when you are shaking from hypothermia on a ledge in a nasty storm with gloves and and just need to move as fast as possible.

Eye think I got a knot fer this purpose, used it got commercial fishing but to move heavy things around, but I'll have to make a clippet for it, let me know if you want to test it? 1:09

Could you do a similar video in 5 minutes on the girth-hitch master point?

Can you test carabiners for paramotor? (Austrialpin, Sup'Air, Zicral, Edelrid, Apco,...) 🙂

Would be super good to see how these knots that roll under constant pull perform under shock load. How’s your drop tower doing? 😎😎

You kinda glossed over this but is the knot you tested in the "s.w.a.m.p." anchor an overhand or a figure-8, and does it really matter for this type of load situation? Also... enough with the teasing already, when are you guys gonna kill a new tent with your pull-test rig?

Used this anchor when training on using the Ptezl Lezard when Petzl came out to certify us for rescues.

Where did John get that aeesome shirt???

Any idea on what this would be like with polypropylene webbing and / or polyester tubular webbing?

If love to hear more about this 2:56

We use it loads in the UK. Much simpler than all that quad nonsense you do over there 🤣

For the algorithm 👍👍

👏👏👏👏👏

What if one sling cuts after rock fall? Traction is not the only risk

Asking once more for you guys to test out the sheet bend properly. Maybe even just a short? (You had done it incorrectly when tested)

Would this work better with an 8 (which in theory wouldnt roll)?

usually it is hard - to untight the knot on a sling in such an anchor

Whats a better way to do an anchor with a 60cm sling?

It's redundant in the case of one of your two anchors wasn't 20kn after all (because the rock broke). I use it rarely, usually I just run two independent runners.

Maybe I missed something, but isn't the whole point of a SWAMP (rather than the Magic X, say) to provide a stronger connection to the anchor in the event one of the anchor points fails. 9.51 KN doesn't seem that great compared to a Magic X with a little shock load factored in.

Other than the strength of dyneema and nylon, what are some of the pros and cons of each material? Like durability and lifespan?

Is that just an overhand knot in the middle, sorry did not hear if they said it.

So basically every dyneema sling broke at about 50% MBS due to the knot?

Is a clove hitch master point and a girth hitch master point a SWAMP?

0:33 "how much if any, does this know weaken this anchor" 0:49 "so that knot is clearly not having an impact" well it broke on 20.6 but without the knot it would have been closer to double of 22, since it shares the load with 4 instead of the 2 strands that the 22kn is the rating for (check their link on the american death triangle and load sharing between strands). so the knot definitely inpacted the strength... but fair enough, those values are not relevant too much since 20+ is well enough anyway.

Hi Ryan, could you do an updated video from this one, please? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xo12vEOrA8w.html I've been searching for the break test info for the Bowline on a Bight tied in rope (rethreaded bowline) and can't find the data anywhere. Please can you help? Thanks Edit: I also love using the SWAMP...... didn't actually realise it had a name other then a knot in a sling 😂

Is this a re-invention of the Spanish bowline?

butterfly

Gear fear😮duh🤷‍♀️

But it’s not really redundant bc if one leg is cut then it’s pretty weak??

Personally in this situation with a short sling and a few carabiners, I'd make a clove hitch anchor instead. Nice and easy to tie and untie. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1UyInC0SkGo.html

Another for the archives, of Why Bother, Nothing to be Gained, once-used now relegated because better options are known and totally overshadow them. A curiosity for history buffs mostly.

Comment

they can rattle open and lose a fair amount of stength in a fall not looking at the video

That's a little sketch for me. Quad all the way

The old guy (and hey, I'm 70) doesn't really fit into this channel.