Climbing Styles: The GrandMaster 

Can y'all weirdos stop commenting how attractive Jain Kim is please it's 2021, we need to stop objectifying women

Never watched a rock climbing video in my life, and suddenly I’m introduced to a world of skill, technique, and artistry. Nice.

What stands out to me the most is the static, fluid motion: whenever possible, she keeps three points planted and moves the fourth hand/foot.

She is poetry in motion. =)

Simping for Jain Kim for over 10 minutes? Let's go

I've always enjoyed watching Kim Jain climb. Her movements are so smooth and precise, like a flow. It is weirdly calming.

And THIS is the exact reason I am mad furious about businessmen saying "who wants to watch jain kim for 8 minutes, fucking boring get out of here" and then they reduce the time limit to 6 minutes and pack every single lead route full of dynos.

As a novice climber I wish someone just yelled at me on my first day like a secret sensei: “make triangles”🔺🔻

Watching Kim Jain in many ways brought me into rock climbing.

Fellow Canadian here! Kim Jain is always such a joy and wonder to watch. She's always in control, always so elegant and efficient. The most impressive thing is how she can effortlessly rest on impossible looking holds! I also really enjoy watching Jule Wurm for her deliberate movements (especially her foot work!)

her flexibility is impressive

Absolutely agree: her style is the essence of what lead climbing is or should be. Sadly competition climbing has recently moved more and more towards something that favours styles which are more geared towards general audiences: more dynos, faster climbing (e.g. the reduction of time available for World championship lead climbing events), moves that require raw power more than technique.

kim jain is like the kim yuna of climbing (world champion figure skater known for her technique, precision and artistry)

Seeing her climb makes my Jaw drop every Time. Even Ice Skaters or Dancers can't compare to the Grace her movement radiates She is by far my favorite rock climber and the biggest Inspiration.

as a very short climber, seeing jain on the wall gives me both hope and insight, a better understanding if you will of mouvements. i love climbing for many reasons, i really really do, it scares me how much i love it, and mouvements gotta be one of the reasons. i often imagine that her meticulous execution of technique, micro adjustments, foot swaps that are almost second nature to her climbing in order to find better body positioning/triangle to push off her feet and gain reach, all that smearing- is somewhat a result of her having to find drills like these and practice them over and over again from the beginning of her climbing career. I'm a shit climber, and i don't mean to compare myself to jain kim in any way- but i see that trend in short climbers who have to think harder and apply certain techniques from the start, even on their first juggy beginner route that everyone else just reaches the next hold keeping both their feet secure. It's quite frustrating until you accept that you just need to climb differently, with higher feet, better body positioning, better endurance, and honed problem solving skill. Then rarely, when being tiny is an advantage- (as can be, sometimes) we get to fully, fully savour the joy and privilege. anyway, just thinking that facing all the relative difficulties in climbing due to my height could, may be, mean that i'm getting closer to jain's climbing style than i would've been had i been taller, is a consolation and motivation. That is, if i instead of giving up, find a way to solve the problem even though that means i'll struggle on what some 2 weeks gym climber flashes.

Great video! I've only been climbing for little under a year, and I find analysis like this really helpful and useful for my own development. Liked & subscribed!

This is the first clubbing video I’ve ever seen and I’m so glad it was of this climber!! She’s incredibly impressive!

That beginning dude I was so confused lol kinda mad til you said this is a rock climbing video xD

The most amazing competition climber we've ever seen without a doubt. Her problem solving on the fly, her technique, her strength for power to weight ratio would be phenomenal. She's humble quietly spoken but her climbing speaks for her. I've learnt more watching this amazing beautiful lady than any other climber...yes I've learnt a lot from Ondra but not everyone has his strengths. So to learn as a beginner Kim is the perfect climbing technique absolute finesse. Awesome vid and i completely agree with you.

The triangle position is really interesting! It's very different to how I climb, I'll have to try it and see how it goes!

youtube suddenly started recommending all these kim jain videos to me a few months ago and i know nothing about rock climbing but i stan her anywya

Ai Mori also seems to experiment with different methods of getting the next hold and form triangles with her legs a lot.

10:51 ouch! ...and wow! Thank you for the commentary Ascetionism. Very clear also for non-climbers.

It's like ballet on the wall. So graceful, strong and precise.

Great video! Jain Kim is my favorite climber and I'd love to see more climbers pace and use heel hooks like her :)

Instructive, thanks. Recognising when it makes sense to smear on the wall, rather than just using the footholds available, is something that doesn't happen until after having already failed on my first attempt (and most likely, I'll fail a few more times trying with just the holds, before widening my vision and trying something different). Fascinating to see that same blind spot popping up among the professionals at ~ 9:50. "If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants." Jain Kim is a 5ft giant.

Kim Jain/Kim Yuna- they are all legends in their own ways

Ai Mori is the next Kim Jain: slow, intentional, meticulous, efficient. Great video. Thank you!

Great analysis! I love her climbing style, so I'll have to try it out when I'm next at the gym.

I just started and it was my instinct to climb dynamically. This video is neat and has inspired me to climb more like Jain, thank you!

I know nothing about climbing and have never watched it, but I found this video super interesting and it held my interest. So good job

That was great, i have a new appreciation for her after passing over what I thought was a basic style for flashier climbers like Janja.

This woman gets it done.

aint even a climber but was super interesting. subbed

I loved the video, thanks for this series it really is amazing. I learn so much from these breakdowns, and I can also appreciate their climbing more. Thank you a ton for these, I'm sure they take a ton of work and I'm super thankful for them.

For those wondering she did not compete at the Olympics due to a finger injury but instead she provided the commentary during the climbing events on KBS

Amazing video and I totally agree. I remember the first time I saw her climb my jaw dropped. She instantly became the climber I most wanted to be able to move like.

great video! I know nothing about climbing but this was really interesting to watch

I think you did an amazing job contextualizing her expertise by using the other sports comparisons. Great narration.

I found the triangle analysis very helpful. I'm interested in learning more about this sport from near-zero knowledge. The technical comments below are difficult for me to understand but triangles I can look for when I watch videos.

Love herrr!! Never thought about the triangles!!! Definitely gonna implement them !! Great video 🤩

Actually in Korea every climbing gyms tell me at the first day to 'make triangles'. Maybe it was the most important basics for Jain Kim.

Damn what a beautiful beast! Just started climbing today!

Great analysis about the triangle, learn a lot from it, thx.

It is nice that you had a moment of Lynn Hill because she climbs in a very similar fashion (same size and morphology as well). I discussed this with her once because I climb similar (of course at a lower grade level), and in our cases we agreed it was partly from the fact that both of us climbed trad for almost a decade before sport climbing came along, and we preferred the more static and endurance-based approach. Kim would be an incredible trad climber as well.

Amazing video as always!

So much wisdom for life and climbing in this video

Nice video. I don't pretend to know anything about climbing, but I noticed two things about this climber that is different than others I have seen climb. First impression is that her climbing constantly makes me think of sloths. Methodical and somewhat hypnotic. And second, in all the shots you provided I don't think I saw a single time where she drops an arm and shakes it out. Frequent arm shake seems to be de rigueur with the other climbers I have watched. To me she channels the forms taught in karate or tail chi rather than being a display of raw athleticism.

Her triangling basically plays along with what you said about her insane hip flexibility. There's no way I'd be able to square up like that on some of those moves.

I've been watching a rock climbing youtuber named Magnus Midtbo. If you could do a breakdown on his powerful, upper-arm-focused, I would be thrilled to watch it!

Great observation and analysis!

2009 vibe voice over

I subbed because you made this awesome video of my favorite climber. Thanks bud!

Awesome series idea! Subscribed immediately 🤙

nice nice

Amazing insight and inspiration! Especially for a beginner climber like me! Thanks so much!

9:53 when you and your buddy choose the same character

Why wasn't she at the Olympics?

I am far... far far (very far) away to be a pro or even an expert climber. But the triangle position was given me as the "base" of climbing. I thought that everyone would know it from the very beginning and I was also told that i have to keep in mind to come back to the triangle as soon as I can...

Interesting ! 🙂

I want to start out by saying that I think Jain Kim in undoubtedly great. However, I greatly disagree with your explanations of why. To begin with, "flawless" is incorrect -- she has obvious weaknesses in dynamic or power based climbing as well as preferential techniques (like any climber). Climbing slowly is not on it's own a good thing, e.g. for a larger climber, or any climber with low endurance it would be a bad strategy. Route reading - in my opinion, while her slow speed and high endurance give her more time to make reads and try other options, this does not point to superior route reading, merely reinforces the advantages of her endurance. Energy conservation - moving quickly and moving efficiently are not mutually exclusive, it is very dependent on the style of route and the characteristics of the individual climber -- Adam Ondra being an obvious counter example here of high speed high efficiency climbing, arguably the highest (athlete dependent) speed paired with high accuracy and high quality/efficient movement would be the the ultimate end goal.

THE GOLDEN GOAL CHILLS

Great video as always, thanks...Sam✌️

Great point about the triangle. I will try to incorporate that into my climbing.

She is a gift!

Sometimes I wish there was a universal camera angle for shooting climbers so I know if I'm looking at flat, invert, over hang or what. Cause these camera guys have me looking at the problems upside down sometimes.

I keep watching climbing vids to See if I can find stuff to add to my arsenal of moves and techniques. most of the time the things that they describe are things that I subconciously do when climbing as it just feels more stable or more controlled. But this is something that I will defenately try to implement just to see how it feels for me, or if it is something that I already do without really realizing it.

She's amazing athlete and the best

Love your videos ! Thank you

And above all: She's pure elegance!

verry cool

my hands are so sweaty just watching this

Hello, I don't suppose you have the answer since the table comes from Wiki but when showing her gold medals at 2:41 she has 29. Whereas I only counted 26, for example in 2011 the table shows 5 gold but if you check the IFSC website she only had 3 that year, Changzhi, Puurs and Kranj. Is something else being counted? Is the Wiki wrong? Or the IFSC website?

She became Mother recently!

Amazing!

Her movements are like a mantis, they usually think before they move. You can see this as jerking shaking movement, it like they need to be sure about their movements.

She makes it look easy.

Gracias! Un video muy interesante y muy distinto a lo que estaba acostumbrado a ver sobre el rubro! Suscrito!

As a taller climber who constantly has to hear other shorter climbers chalk everything I achieve that they don't to me being tall, I also love citing Kim Jain as the proof that it can be climbed even by shorter climbers. I troll them like "well, pretty sure Kim Jain would've been able to complete that 5.11B bro..."

You should do a video about Mason Earle. I know you focus more on big names that are in the comp scene, but he's one of those dudes that just kills it in the backcountry, and gym climbers have probably never heard of him. Also, Seb bouin would be another great choice. He is the undercover crusher after all. You mentioned him in the Rouhling video as the one who downgraded Akira, but it would be neat to talk about some of his big accomplishments in 2019, his vintage rock tour...etc.

I always thought Triangle was at the point of contact in this case try to have 3 point of contacts helps me because I"m a beginner.

Watching Kim climb always raises the hair on my arms. It is pure art!

Envy rock climbing, amazing... maybe she's misses spider woman... really cool to watch, thanks for tutorial. Great job climbers

"One of the greatest rock climbers" I'd call her one of the greatest competition climbers. She doesn't climb a lot outside.

Your introduction is great and your video is great too 👍

Nice. Can you analysis semifinals and finals of world cup? 2021

I would love for you to break down my favourite climber. BEAT KAMMERLANDER - please do it! He has in my opinion one of the most dynamic and precise footwork. Just a pleasure to watch. The way he jumps at small footholds is just so amazing. For me an absolute legend! PLEASE!

She is my idol!!!

If you like this, check out a video called Johanna Ernst Vs men

I understand why she has a spider tattoo

shes the best!

Her movement is purposeful and controlled-she isn't throwing and hoping to stick nor throwing and moving her hand into position-that's what most climbers don't focus on in their training.

Great climber ! Super video! However, two words. LYNN HILL !!!

Very strong

doesnt albert ok have a series called climbing styles

So she is the Womens Grand Master? or better then GrandMaster Men?

4:40 I think I recognise Chamonix :) Edit: oh, the writting is litterally on the wall

Quite a theoretical exercise this discussion, but in the end, it is no more than that...

10-ply

I'm a cyclist and i love cycling even more after i watched this. 😮😮😮