Thanks for the great compliment about my presentation skills. My use of metrics is necessary because all the fasteners were made in metric sizes and not fractional.
I never leave comments on these videos. This one is an excellent example of a very informative video. You guys are very good with the details involved with getting er done. I truly believe this video will be very helpful in knowing all the things to look for on my 1995 F150 fix . It's a pleasure seeing a video so in depth for a repair. I'd like to thank you fellas for sharing your extremely valuable and well organized descriptions of even the small details. You have a new follower my friend. Thanks for your time and extra effort in sharing your experiences very much !!!
I have an auto trans. But after seeing this video and also fixing my sloppy shifter a while back, I decided to do my brake pedal bushings. No side play in the brake pedal now - like brand new. This video helped me a lot and I wanted to say thanks to yous. Can't wait to get a 20t press in the new year...
That's cool you were able to fix the slop in your brake pedal by using this video as a reference. You're very welcome. When you go to Harbor Freight to buy the press, have them open the box and take a look at the pressing cross member that the bottle jack sits on. Quite often that pressing bar is welded on pretty crooked. I don't think any of them are perfect because they're using some cross-eyed welder in China, but maybe you can get one that fairly straight. The press does work very well though and the price is definitely right.
If I just wanted to do the 3 piece kit on the clutch pedal I wouldn't have to remove the master cylinder and drain it etc right? I could just pull the pin and then remove the clutch pedal assembly and install the bushings correct? Thank you
@@efil4kizum My 4Runner had 300,000 miles. The plastic bushings on the clutch assembly wore out years ago and the pivot points were metal on metal. That wore out the metal and the clutch pedal was hard to use, very squeaky and not enjoyable to drive.
@@taylorbarnes5377 my '97 taco (343k miles) has always had that squeaky pedal during certain times of the year cold or humid out (as well as a shift fork squeak that is now gone with it's 1st new clutch + new shift fork in 27 years) the master/slave cylinder went bad at about 200k miles (pedal would not fully return in Reverse) i had the yota tech that replaced those items several years ago fully lubricate + grease the pedal bushings, spring, joints etc. while he was right there and there was NO more squeak that lasted for a very quiet 135k miles (except for the nasty shift pivot fork squeak inside the bell housing)... the pedal is now squeaking again once and awhile after the new clutch parts
Does this clutch pedal fit a 1998 T100???? I know you added all the parts in description. I want to rebuild mine as well but I don't want to buy the parts and they won't fit.
I lost one of the nuts that hold the master cylinder onto the firewall that are hard to put on.. do you know the part number or what that nut is called? I cannot find it anywhere. Thank you
FYI, the clutch is self bleeding. you can just open the bleeder and let the fluid drain downwards, any trapped air will eventually work it's way into the reservoir.
Hmmm. How long would you have to let it gravity bleed? When we did a 3.0 to 3.4 Swap on a 2nd Gen 4runner, that clutch slave cylinder was a pain to bleed. We had to put a clamp on it to get it bled.
Hey timmy got a question were did you guys get the red anodized aluminum pullys im looking to replace all my pullys on my 2000 4runner any info would be amazing @Timmy The Toolman
Thank you Timmy you got them all brother. I needed this video my cruise control doesn’t work on my five speed in the clutch pedal. I have to kick it up cover me first gear is a bit tricky but I think I’m going to have to do this rebuilt.
Hey Timmy, best thing about getting another 4Runner is I get to watch your videos again! This time scored a manual 2000 3.4 Sport. Pretty excited. I'm a bit surprised there wasn't enough room to slip a new gasket onto the firewall studs there... Or did you just disconnect the lines in the abundance of caution?
did this, more or less, today. two things: R&R of the clutch pedal is doable without disconnecting the hydraulic line of the master cylinder; and be careful what bushings you buy, since not every one labeled compatible actually fits. thanks for the vid.
Hey Leif, thanks for the info. I don't know if it was clear in the video, but the reason why we removed the clutch master cylinder was to replace that gasket between the master cylinder and the firewall. We didn't want to massively tweak the fluid line so that's why we disconnected it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, and a good plan to avoid hurting the line. For whatever reason, mine moved with no problem. We had recently replaced the master cylinder so no need to replace the gasket this time around. Thanks again for your great vids. They're a massive confidence-builder.
Are the clutch pedal braket and assembly the same on the 1st gen tacoma and a 3rd gen 4runner. In the middle of a 5 speed swap and all i can find is a tacoma clutch and brake pedal assembly
Here are a few shortcuts: 1st) You don't need to drain the clutch master cylinder, don't even remove the cap or use a flare-nut wrench. Just remove the two nuts on either side of the master cylinder(MC) that attach it to the fire-wall. Under the dash, unplug any electrical connectors from the clutch and remove the pin that connects the MC fork to the clutch pedal arm. Under the hood, pull the master cylinder back an inch or two, but not all the way out, only about half way, (half the distance relative to the parts that protrude under the dash), so it sits near the end of the two bolts. (The fork never needs to pass through the fire-wall to complete the entire job.) 2nd) Remove the bolt under the dash that secures the clutch pedal assembly. Once the bolt is removed, then carefully depress the clutch pedal towards the floor, being aware that the spring is still in play, but the three bolts have been removed that secure everything. There's not a lot of force from the spring but you don't want to pinch your fingers or have the pedal-assembly move suddenly and damage wires under the dash. Once the clutch is depressed toward the floor you can tilt the pedal upwards and it should make it easier to remove from under the dash. 3rd) Rebuild the pedal as per the video, but before you reinstall the pedal, make sure you install the MC gasket through the firewall. Surprisingly, you can install the gasket from under the dash. The trick is that you need to curl, (not fold or crease---just curl), the thin round edges of the gasket so that it will fit through the hole. Use something, maybe an empty toilet-paper or paper-towel tube, to flex the gasket down it's length. So one bolt hole on one end of the tube and the other bolt hole toward the opposite end of the tube. Basically just role the gasket a little bit, primarily the thin rounded ring parts. You only need to curve it just enough to reduce it's width so you can slip through the hole in the fire-wall. So once it's curled properly, take it under the dash, slip it over the MC fork, stick one end of the gasket through the hole, manipulate the MC fork a little, to help you get the other end of the gasket through the hole, and now the gasket is on the correct side of the firewall and you're almost done. Be careful once you get the gasket in place that you try to keep the bolt holes lines up and everything so that when you install the clutch and start manipulating the master cylinder that the bolts don't damage the gasket. I used a little bit of blue masking tape to try to keep the bolt holes lines up. I didn't have an extra gasket, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to have one in case yours isn't as flexible as mine was or you have an accident. Install the clutch pedal and finish everything up and you're done, never once having had to empty the clutch master cylinder or even extract the MC through the fire-wall, (other than a few inches.)
Tim ....I was waiting for you to talk about the clutch play adjustment and how to adjust the nut on the rod which I believe is supposed to be adjusted and you didn't talk about the pedal play .... : (
This video wasn't about adjusting clutch play adjustment because his clutch play was already good. But, we have a video that discusses adjusting clutch play. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mrSRBmFZ1wk.html Go to play time 45 minutes 45 seconds.
What are the symptoms of this needing to be done? I have a 97 Tacoma, 5 speed manual. My clutch pedal went from engaging about halfway down , to right at the bottom. Thought it was the slave cylinder. Replaced that and the master cylinder. Helped a little but not enough. Could this be my issue. Clutch grabs fine, no slip.
@Chris-zp6eh I don't think the clutch return spring is your issue. There are adjustments you can make with the clutch pedal free play. There's a rod that goes from the master cylinder to the clutch pedal with a lock nut. You can loosen the lock nut and turn the rod to lessen or increase the free play. Look up clutch pedal free play, and you'll understand what I'm talking about. I don't have a video for it.
The torque on that through bolt is 25ft-lbs according to the standard torque chart in the beginning of your service manual. It's a JIS Class 5T bolt with M10x1.25 threads.
Hey Timmy the Toolman, I have a small question, do you know if Toyota made a Limited trim Sport Package model? I don't see one anywhere, and i own one. It's a 2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited V6 Sport Package. Seems kinda crazy, but cool. I think only SR5's came with the Sport Package. Sounds like i got a factory freak model.
I'm not sure on this. T4R.org has a thread that might have the answer you're seeking. Here's the link: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html
Great Video. If you just want to just replace the plastic bushings for the Torsion Spring do you have to remove the whole pedal from the car? I know its a tight space to work in there but is it possible? I would like to avoid having to remove the Evap system and master cylinder just to replace 3 bushings.
Just something to be aware of: The slave cylinder gasket is not the same on a 1st gen V6 Tacoma it is part #31415-10010 I do think it is the same on a 3rd gen 4 Runner V6 best to check it out.
My bushings for the spring are toast. I wonder if that would prevent the clutch from returning all the way. I've always had to use my toe to pull the pedal back the last 1/2 inch. I've had the problem for years. It's not the clutch play adjustment and have replaced the master cylinder.
It could be. Some people have also chosen to do away with the OEM spring set-up and install a linear return spring hooked to the pedal and then hooked to part of the body under the dash. If you look under the dash at your brake pedal return spring, it's a spring like that.
@@TimmyTheToolman Replaced the bushings today. Had the two white ones and went to the stealership for the middle spring one. They charged more than MSRP! Anyway it was a bear getting that spring back in place without a bench vise and proceeded to obliterate that center bushing I just bought. The white ones were pretty bad and one almost wore all the way threw the metal to the outer part of the plate. Guess I caught it just in time and now the pedal returns to normal. Thanks Timmy for all you do... Valve covers are next.
Timmy quick question if I depress my clutch pedal and it doesn’t fully come back up unless I drag it the rest of the way up with my foot does that mean the spring is no good? Or what can be the cause of this issue?
Hey Tim, Is this applicable to a 1st gen Tacoma? I purchased the torsion spring because my clutch is starting to sag ever so slightly and not allowing me to use my cruise control. While I’m in there I might as well replace everything else.
Ditch the spring, my 1st gen Tacoma had lots of spring and pedal wear, and I welded a new pedal spring mount, but I decided to try without the spring,j and there is so much more feel in the pedal without the spring. The spring doesn’t seem to do that much work pushing the clutch 5-10 pounds more force without the spring, nothing I didn’t get used to in a week.
Hey man I been watching your videos trying to get ready to do a little tlc on my 2002 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner like valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and fuel injectors what is that book you always use as a reference on these videos?
I found a set on amazon cheaper than I could get on eBay! Got lucky they had one left for my year model!! I really appreciate it man. And looking forward to more videos. In addition to my 2002 Prerunner I also have a ‘94 pickup 4x4 with the 22re in it. I hope you get to do some videos on one of them. Lol it needs more love than my prerunner does. I really enjoy your videos I found myself watching other you’ve done because there is just a lot of stuff to be learned from the way you do things. Looking forward to more of em.
@@geronimo6830 That's great you found an affordable set for sale. I do have a couple videos working on a 22RE engine since I bought an 85 4runner a couple years ago. Great to hear you're learning some helpful things from our videos.
You probably could. You would probably want to put something under the clutch master cylinder to support it so pressure isn't being placed on the line.
i just did part of this job, though timmy's approach is more thorough and avoids risk. i re-greased the bushings only, and removing the pedal assy can be done by removing the one upper bolt, the two nuts on the clutch master cylinder, and the electrical connections. back off the master cylinder away from the firewall a little, but not to the point that it's hanging and hurting the line, as timmy alluded to. i was able to maneuver out the pedal assy.
Im sure y'all have heard about adding an older style spring in there instead of that horrible OEM style. Theres actually a little tab in there and most clip the other end onto the pin that connects the master cylinder to the pedal www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-squeak-linear-spring-swap-tw-how-to.159429/
Yeah for sure. Im wondering if it would be ok over time. These guys on tacoma time are raving about it. Also saw a guy that made his own bushings out of brass
It doesn't burn your skin, but what does it do being absorbed into your body? It's good practice to wear gloves when working with automotive greases, oils and fluids but I'd be a liar if I said I always wore gloves. When I was younger working on vehicles, I never wore gloves. Now I wear them most of the time I pick up a wrench.
@@TimmyTheToolman When I was a teenager (I'm 10 years younger than you) I always had skin peeling off the end of my thumbs and fingers and couldn't figure out why. Then I figured out it was from the grease and oil I was always getting on my hands from mountain bike maintenance. For some reason I am "allergic" to it. So now I always wear gloves and when one breaks and lets grease in my thumb starts peeling. Like you say, probably a good thing because it forces me to wear gloves.
@@lukeneave I made a mistake. I thought your comment was about our friend Jordan installing a header on his 3RZ motor. Installing headers on a 5VZ-FE engine would be difficult. I sort of doubt we'll ever make this video, but I guess never say never. I think the difficulty level of this job totally outweighs any perceived benefit other than bragging rights you have headers on your 3rd Gen.
