We started this channel to help empower people to handle their own Automotive Work. Handling your own work can be fun, challenging and sometimes frustrating. You will experience a great sense of accomplishment when you finish a job on your own, not to mention you will save yourself a ton of money in the process. Automotive work can be intimidating but we're here to show you it's not that hard if you have the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience. We hope you take up the challenge!
We sacrifice a lot of personal time to research, shoot and edit our videos. Our favorite form of payment is hearing back from people letting us know how they succeeded with a job by using one of our videos. In the past, people have asked if we accept money donations so we decided to add a Tip Jar link for those that would like to send us a few bucks for our efforts. Money donations are appreciated but definitely not expected.
I followed along and i did it on the street before street sweeping came by lol and i did it to the last part of the stating the car. But it cranks and hasn't started. It gets to a point of wanting to start and then dies like there is no power. No codes from the scan. I tried to jumpstart it and stiill cranking with no start. Any advice?
With that involved of a job, the only thing I can say is retrace your steps and make sure you made all the electrical and hose connections. Get the intake plenums off and make sure all the injectors are connected, the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor connections. All the connections to the throttle body, etc.
Wouldn't a lot of this have been easier if the knuckle had just been removed and worked on a bench? I mean the lower BJ and tie rod had already been undone. No need to have everything hanging on the brake line.
Thank you for the awesome video. I was on the brink of installing a full floater in my GX470 rather than replacing these wheel bearings. I bought Duane's tool and it a quick and easy job. (Top quality, don't support the commies in China and buy directly from Duane!) The worst part of the job was getting the ebrake(s) installed. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
It's nice to know you've saved a lot of money using our videos and it's empowered you to turn wrenches on your vehicle. If you have a 10.5 quart capacity, measure what you drained out on the final flushing round and subtract that from 10.5. This will tell you how much distilled water you have left in the system. Whatever value you get, first add that amount in concentrate to the radiator so it will make what's left in the system a 50/50 mix. Then simply top off the system with a 50/50 mix and burp the system of air.
Good video, testing the pins on my IAC and there isn’t no reading +B and RSC. Only between +B and RSO. Going have to replace it. Vehicle stalls every time on start up. Hopefully this keeps it on, after changing
Thank you for your service Timmy! You helped me a bunch of times with my 3rd Gen 4Runner. I'm at 358k miles so far and I will be doing my rack and pinion very soon because of you sir!
Hey Timmy, I don't know if you'll see this comment on this old video. But I've got some seriously rusted out back plates on my 1991 rear drums and I want to replace them. Some sources online say I'll have to pull the whole thing apart and replace the bearing and seals and others say I can just peel the things apart and bolt it to the new black plate
The only way you can get an old plate off and new plate on is by cutting it. You'd have to cut the new backing plate in half to get it on because the axle goes through it. So, unless you want to cut it in half, you'll have to do the presswork to separate the backing plate from the axle.
Just did this today on my 97 with 199,800 miles. Brush had about 2.5mm of material left. Great video, easy to follow with great explanations. One thing to note if it helps anyone reading this, I used a sharpie to make a mark on the adjustor as a reference when I reinstall and can get as close as possible to the original belt tension.
Good job getting it done. I'm glad our video helped you out. Smart technique with the sharpie provided the belt tension was good before you started the job. Happy Wrenching!
I'm actually doing this job with OEM replacements. I've searched through the FSM digital version and can't find the torque spec for the mount bolts. Is the 25 ft/lb you mention unique to the poly bushings or is that the original spec? Thanks!!
@davidc5316 That's a suggested spec from the makers of the poly bushing manufacturers. When we did a body lift years ago, we also couldn't find a suggested torque spec for the body mount bolts in the FSM.
I am frustrated to tears. I need to do this brake job on my 97 4runner. There is stuff all day long about the 231mm. I need the 199mm for now. 13WE. look up 2001 Tundra 4x4 V8. I go to Rock Auto. There is no 13WE. There is "S"13WE. There is NOTHING ANYWHERE on the 100s of options in specs about 199mm. Is the S13WE the same as 13WE??? I wish this was mentioned. :( I gave a thumbs up but honestly this video hasn't answered the detail I need for a 199mm. :/ IF anyone sees this can you please give me a clue? I need this fixed asap. I'm to metal . I work nonstop. week after week and i sit here for hours and still have no clue what to buy. If I have to get after market calipers what is a good one for now? Thanks for any help.
@BeaOHare In the video description, we give you a year and model Tundra you can use for a search for the 199mm calipers. Have you tried visiting a Napa Auto Parts or other auto parts store and had them look up brake calipers for you. We also give you a year to look up for the 231mm calipers. Have them look up both and confirm that one is larger than the other. The smaller ones are the 199mm calipers. So, wipe away your tears, get your big girl pants on, and help yourself with the information we provided you in the video description. FYI, nobody likes a whiner, us included.
@donnieboy007 They are very similar and might be exact, but I'm not 100% sure of it. When ordering the parts, I would make your order based on the T100 and not the 3rd Gen 4runner just to be safe.
Hey Timmy, thank you so kuch for your videos. I may have missed it somewhere but just to confirm for my parts list, do I need 2 or 4 cam shaft plugs for this job. In the list that drops down at the beginning of the video, it says 4. But in the info it says 2. Just don’t want to start the job without all the parts. Thanks again for all your videos.
Hey man!! I’ve been searching for answers for my issue and this is the closest they have come. I was wheeling and a big boulder slammed the driver side dif bracket, the lower washer that the bottom bolt tightens. It kinda bent it but in process I think pushed the driver side dif aft and up because the bolt was bent pretty bad. I got a new bolt and put it in and despite how much torque I put on it the dif doesn’t drop and snug and sandwich together…. Any ideas???? No one I ask seems to know.
When the bikes is off is there no power to the switch cause I’ve seen guys tapping into some other wire but I’m thinking it’s for a 20 second delay or whatever ?
@zachelliott9355 If you powered the lights via a switch panel hooked up to auxiliary power, the lights will only power up when the key is turned to On, Auxiliary or the.vheicle is running. If you hooked up to a circuit with constant power, the lights would have power all the time.
Hey Tim! Keto Cave Man here! The guy who sent you the whiskey.... The UFO recovery vehicle has a request for a video. My drivers seat belt is weak on retraction...... How about a vid on a repair or hack? Thanks for what you do! My 99 has most of your suggestions! I still have the front wheel bearings to do and my back door motor is still strong as I've done the 4 door locks per your vids. 👽😎👍😁
When you are putting on the banjo cross pipe on fuel rail, if your valve covers off, I can't tell if they are off, because mines are not fitting, so I have to take valve covers off?
I followed this video for the tear down, and Part 6 of the head gasket job for the rebuild. It went perfectly. Funnily enough the tear down revealed the right side cam was a tooth out. Once finished, I put the ignition key in and turned it without thinking what if...and my engine fired right up. Beautiful. Thankyou Timmy and Sean. Thank you. Next job is inner tie rod. You guys are simply the best.
how did you use the same inner axle seals for both abs and non-abs? In your two axle seal videos, the Toyota part #90310-50006 used is the same in both videos.. shouldn't the seals be different sizes due to the position in the axle.. really curious how that works..
❤ Great video! Very well detailed! All step are shown clearly, and you made them easy to follow. You went through a lot of work to show how to set the camshaft and crank timing marks for multiple engine variations. Best video!!!
U just helped me, my 95 Ram has started stalling sometimes at hot idle, and I'm thinking this could be what's going wrong, it's got 175,000 think it's time for a new one
You know, i can't find the volume of the power steering pump reservoir. I just had to use a measuring cup and pour the fluid in, use the dip stick, and siphon more out until it looked right. Is there a general volume I should expect? My fluid was really low before so that wasn't a great indicator of what should be in there.
@cesarescobedo2936 It will fit, but they are different transmissions. The 2001 and 2002 transmissions don't have a mechanical cable kickdown cable like the 96-00 have. The 01 and 02 were also paired up with a transfer case with a center diff lock. So, I think you'll have to get a transmission from a 99-00 rig.
I confirmed through O'Reilly auto parts that it is the same part number for the gx470. However a recommendation for your viewers : i would not recommend any greasable aftermarket u-joint. Either buy oem greasable or if you're on a tight budget and have to go after market, go with the non-greasable. I ended buying two new oem drive shafts.
@@TimmyTheToolman better product design especially in regards to the lower control arm bushings whiteline supplies a sleeve etc and you dont have to salvage the cam pin, would be main one, and they seem a bit more rubbery for urethane bushings than the red energy suspension ones (i have front/rear sway, panhard, and few others from energy)
Awesome tutorial. I have a tiny coolant leak from the intake manifold. I considered adding stop leak but after watching some Timmy videos have decided to do it right and get new gaskets under that thing. Little scared, but it's a clean engine and things should be fine. Thanks for the work you do, it's a real help.
@tikitavi7120 You're welcome, and good luck with the job. If you see any deep pitting on the heads, try using some Toyota FIPG 1282B to fill in the pitting and put the intake manifold gaskets over the top. Give it overnight to cure, and hopefully, your coolant leak issue will be fixed.
@@TimmyTheToolman I priced some of that today, they want well over a hundred bucks a tube, and of course, have none in stock. Any alternatives? If pitting is detected I will get some one way or another. Thanks again bro, you rock!
@@TimmyTheToolman Your follow up to these questions and problems speak volumes about your character. So many of us are on limited budgets and simply can't afford shop work. Guys like you really do make a difference. Cheers!
@tikitavi7120 I appreciate what you said. Sean and I do our best to answer people's questions and do it in a timely manner because people might be in the middle of a job and need help right now. We definitely know money is tight for a lot of people, and they can't afford to take their vehicle to a shop and pay the expensive hourly labor rates they charge. We also know people want to be self-sufficient and learn automotive mechanic skills so they can do their own work and know it was done right. Again, thanks for recognizing the contribution Sean and I make to the world. We appreciate it very much. Good luck with the rest of the job. Let me know how it turns out. - Timmy
Not really a huge difference in cooling although I haven’t taken any crazy long trips while extreme temperatures… but I will say I like that it floats in front away from the radiator which gives it more room to breathe which is a good feature. It is a bigger cooler, and I like the way it’s mounted better. So all in all, I would go this route over any other option on the market. - Sean
Hey timmy - the drive pulley on the camshaft was not top dead center while the two cam shafts were top dead center. When putting the belt back on, should I crank the crankshaft to be top dead center or leave it how it was when I took it off?
