Hey Matt, it's Matt from 5 hours in the future. You seem to have forgotten that we own a very nice ammunition press which accepts threaded dies, and would have worked perfectly for setting the brake rivets. Anyways, love the channel and such. Please give your dog more screen time than you. Matt
Genius......... why do it the easy way when you can get aboard the struggle bus all day? I thought your vice/die setup worked pretty well to be honest. I think I would have just used a punch in the vice as the dolly, then another punch and hammer and Octopus arms to do the other side, lol.
For what it's worth; I am a 70 year old man and I skidded logs with a D6 Cat when I was 16. I am very very impressed not only with what you are doing but in the way that you are doing it. Especially considering mechanics is not your primary career. This is a hobby for you. If I had a trophy I would certainly give it to you. Art
@@Lorand24 I am sure I do but my parents divorced when I was very young and I know very little of my Dad or his family. He died in 1969. I was raised by an awesome step-dad.
Without a doubt one of my favorite channels now. Great content, Excellent presentation. ranks up there with cutting edge engineering, andrew camarata, watch wes work and others. Keep on rockin Matt.............
Old timer's trick for the countersink holes in the linings. Put your drill bit in the drill then slip a deep socket over the bit that fits closely to the bit. Then use various flat washers or adjust the bit depth in the chuck to get the countersink depth you need. Once this is set, all the holes will be the same depth. Don't mind me just rambling along🙃
You are a brave soul brother, I am a mechanic by trade and I have to give you credit for digging into this machine this deep. Glad you were able to locate another engine and I am enjoying your videos.
On the riveting, you should try using the first flaring die a little more to flare it wider, then use the second die to finish the process. That way the material will go further beyond the hole 👍🏼
Hey Matt. I might put the parts in a box (or boxes) and label them really good and set them off in the corner. As you mentioned, you might need something for the newer engine. Clean up the old block, set it off to the side. Of put it out there that you have a few parts that you would be willing to trade or to sell. You're doing great so far...from my armchair perspective.
This series is another one of those hidden gems on YT. Keep up the good work Matt, we are all pulling for this dozer to come back to life. Your video editing has come a long way since video #1, it shows. I can't see why the wife was upset by the compressor. Hm.
You should put the motor back together and put it on the side of the road with a mailbox on top of the exhaust pipe. Or maybe build up a small raised flower bed, put the motor all painted up in the middle and grow some wildflowers around it. Of course also by the side of the road. Anytime anyone needs directions to your place, you just tell them to look for the cat motor.
When you flatten rivets, you spread them to base then smash. Otherwise you just smash the wall of the rivet and the flange doesn't spread out enough. Its also important to make sure your exactly centered or the flange will spread unevenly and you end up with splits in the flange and the rivot is weakend. Awesome work by the way.
If the engine block is still good it might be worth it to see if you can cobble together parts to rebuild it from the guy you purchased the engine from. Probably get the parts really cheap along with anything else you foresee needing like undercarriage parts. If you have to do it down the road it will probably cost a lot more.
This is so much better than the car channels I'm subscribed to. I'm pretty much limited to a roll around stool until my surgery so it's snowblowers and lawn equipment for me. Hopefully one day I can take on something a little bigger like an actual tractor. Anyways, everyone have a great weekend and stay safe.
You Sir, are the prime example of an old school fix it don't trash it American from back when I was a kid. Now days it's "broke toss it out and buy a new one mentality" that has the world in a consumerism put on a charge card downfall. I have to salute your work ethic.
Oh, dang! Cracks are not good. Somebody didn't know how to drive it.... long before you purchased {saved} it. Better to be safe than sorry, good move. Well, your hair wasn't smoking when you were done welding, so... Not to to bad! Good job on the rivets! SCRAP $$ ? Searching is done, only progress now! EXCELLENT!
About the asbestos. My friend used to work at the university here and he used to work on the crews that removed asbestos he said they used to spray everything with car antifreeze to keep the dust out of the air. A gravity fed waterer on your drill press would work fine for that just use antifreeze. I also saw you vid on getting the new engine you should ask him what he has in new old stock parts for your Cat. Tell him you are interested in the engines he has if he sells for scrap price and you could part out cause I'm sure once you post this video series people all over the world will be asking you for advice on where to find parts. You could also dismantle all 3 engines and pick and choose the parts for one really good one. You would probably get a reasonable second engine and maybe some parts to sell. I would also use him as a reference about your questions about the clutch parts on what needs to be rebuilt or not. Realistically how many hours do you think you will ever put on this Cat. 1000 hours is 1/2 a year full time. It probably has how many hours and it is only worn how much. I am really enjoying the videos I really wish I had access to stuff that cheap here and of coarse your energy would help a lot.
It is important for you to know that I'm emotionally invested in this series now. This is like that part in the relationship where we'd end up pregnant early, but still stay together because it's true love. Or maybe I'm just extra into dozers now, I don't know. Maybe it's all the shafts and lube, but whatever man, I'm in! I even watched the ads.. weird new feeling.
As the saying goes. "Necessity is the mother of invention". Your rivets look good. I understand that you don't have another person to help hold. So clamps will do. Looks good to me sir. Keep on trucking.
Now that is the part I really enjoy, finding alternative methodes to get the right/same result. Not every brain is capable to do just that. Keep'em coming and have a great one.
When you step back and think about it, you're doing great, even if you spend 15k in parts plus your time you'll have a working dozer, sure you might have been able to buy a running machine for that, but this machine will be in way better shape and less trouble in the long run
The rabbit hole is a dark place indeed... You are like me on my 39 Deere tractor resto. I just throw hundred dollar bills at it because I like you have come too far to quit now. I would take a punch the right size and "set" those rivets. I made my own dies for my lining job and used a big arbor press. You use what you have and do the best you can. Love that barn...
Good video. Can't wait to see it up and pushing dirt. Subbed. The rivets looked good. As long as it sits all the way down and flush with the bottom of the recess hole in the brake pad and it's pressed tight on the backside, it'll do just fine. They are pretty much held in with friction and pressure in operating condition so you don't have to worry too much about them.
Worked in the friction business for 47 years. I have done a bunch of those Cat bands. There are people who can countersink and rivet the lining. Looks like you were on the right track and having the lining conform to the band is important. You can put the lining in an oven and heat it up to may 120 degrees and it gets a little more flexible. The rivets are tapered and there are countersinks based on the size of the rivets. Guessing yours are an 8. If you drilled the lining someone like Ott’s Friction or Potter Webster could countersink and rivet it for you. Always ugly if you break a piece of the lining. The corner pieces are the most likely to crack. Hope this helps. I just found where to message you. I was watching on Apple TV and I am now on my IPad.
Rebuild it so you have no worries. Right to replace clutch plates, metal looked fatigued. All the torque runs thru them. Sending you encouragement. Enjoying the videos. You will have years of service. Good Job on the Rivets..
You're doing a great job Matt, I'm really enjoying the series. If you watch the guys who restore old Tonka trucks, They have little c clamp tools for the rivets just like the one you made for the vice.
To set the rivets, I used a bolt in a vice. Bolt is mounted with the head in the vice, other end of the bolt rests against the head of the rivet. Then bang away with the hammer on the tip of the rivet.
Hillbilly ingenuity on those rivets! Nice work Matt! Hang onto the old engine so you can cannibalize it and use it for parts when needed! Am sure it makes for an amazing lawn ornament until needed!
I’m still impressed. Your rivet setter gets better results than I would get with the approach I would have started with (involves a large hammer and a prayer). Here is a mantra that went through my head while watching: “It’s only wrong if it doesn’t work”. You nailed it (ok, riveted it)! You scored on the used parts and it’s good that your not skimping on new parts where necessary. You will have a warhorse when you are done and the overall cost will be a bargain compared to buying a unit ready to put to work on day one. Keep on wrenching! 😎👍👀
The shop I work at has a fabrication shop and we have 2 CNC machines and all the lathes and specialty tools a man could want. We have turned multiple friction plates. HOWEVER, if the pitting is too bad, you'll HAVE to replace them. You can only do so much with them.
You made my morning. Its great to see someone just jump into the problem and figure it out. They do make collets that clamp on your bit for depth control. I sometimes just run electrical tape around the bit. Drill press is best with the depth control. I too paint the parts that go into a never to be seen again case. OCD I guess. We know its painted. Actually, that is done for good oil drainage.
Get a brass washer or make one by cutting the end off a brass tube the same diameter as the holes in your linings. When you have the right thickness to bring your rivet head up to where it should be, epoxy the washer to the bottom of the hole that went too deep. You could also use a brass rod the same OD as the brad point bit. You will just need to drill out the center (do this before you cut the "spacer" off).
23:41 I vote slam it back together, start it, and see how well it does or does not run. I have a sneaking suspicion that thing will run just fine despite all the damage to it as these big cats are hard to kill.
You need to do this job very spot on. If i was you i would take all of the clutch brake ass to a trucking garage and ask were they have brake linings relined, and take them to them and have them done profesionaly riveted. Its a big job and time waisted if it broke up while it was working.
I put my rivet backup bar in the vice pointing up, place rivet head on it and holding all the pieces together with one hand including a centerpunch whack the rivet with a hammer to start and finish it off with a small round face (ball pein) hammer. Keep All your engine parts cos if you can't use them someone else probably could. Like you videos mate. Started driving one of these at 6 years of age. 55 years ago, great machines. Cheers from Tasmania, Australia.
Okay....I just saw the video where you got two new springs. I guess I should have watched all the videos before offering up the spring I have. You're doing a great job!
Good news finding that gear ! As someone that started operating dozer at age 10, (that was 62 years ago) you definitely need 2nd gear ! If you try to operate that machine in 1st gear all day every day, you will shoot yourself from boredom. 1st gear, is the watching paint dry of heavy equipment !
@@mmm365 I ran in second most of the time. I had a dozer service in South Florida. With a couple of International 500-C 's running in very abrasive sand. I would get about 14 months, running every day before I had to turn the bushings. When I finally needed new pins and bushings, we had the rails, sprockets, rollers and idler's built up. I doubt a little land clearing on the weekends will put very much wear and tear on this machine.
Glad you are replacing that second gear. Otherwise, you would be visiting it again, and that wouldn't be very good. As for the drilling the counter sink for the rivet heads, use your drill press and make a stop depth setup so you get everyone to the exact same depth. Easy peasy... Also, you could take your fold over rivet bit and drill a hole in the center via the drill press, and then make a rounded head insert to push into the bit. Than you would be able to spread the rivet and fold it over in one step. That would give to uniformed one step ability and positive folded over ability as well. Thumbs Up!
Matt, in my experiences with replacing the pads, it was more intimidating with what some said than it actually was, looks like you done a great job. Keep up the good work bud. She's coming back together !!!
Great video Matt. I really enjoy how you approach an issue and end up solving it. Nice new parts on hand. Determination and skills…. Your on your way to pushing dirt.
Your doing an outstanding job. Take your time doing alittle at a time goes along way. Before you know it you will have a completed restored D4 1950. Slow is smooth smooth is fast. Hope you and your family are having a great outstanding day.
Here is the thing,you only use second gear and up to travel so a bit of wear is not a big deal. You only pushdirt with first gear. Glad you found the parts you needed. May be worth getting what ever parts you can in case of future issues.
Nice rivet setup. Yeah the ammo press would have helped, but what the heck when you’re doing all this and video too! Glad you found that engine, the original seemed do-able but too far gone to be cost effective. This is like Zen and the art of Dozer rebuilding!
Home-made tools! You're doing fine. Roll pin punches work great for those rivets. You're at the point where you have to decide how much confidence or worry you want to have operating that machine. Maybe even renting it out to make it an income instead of an expense.
My dad has an old brake and clutch lining tool. You hold the lining to the plate and apply pressure to the base anvil which activates the upper anvil to mushroom the revit. Works really good just nobody relines brakes and clutches anymore.
Not sure if they are still readily available but they used to sell rivet punches. To get around the need for extra hands, put regular punch in a vise, place countersunk rivet over this punch. Use rivet punch on other side and beat tight with hammer. Spent a lot of hours as a kid relining brake and clutch bands for an old American crane.
My late father had a "contraption" on which he would rivet on the brake linings on his '36 Ford. When the shoes on my '58MB needed relining I ventured to a local shop, with the factory specs. which rebuilt clutches and brakes. They turned it around in less then a day. Narragansett Bay
id say finish the dozer, then get the old engine running and see if you can get something for it, or who knows maybe keep it for spares. Only going to get rarer
Years ago before Bonded Brake Linings all car brake linings were riveted,, not a big issue if you have a bit of a jig and some one to hold the band while you hammer the rivets ..
I share your thoughts of a light on this rabbit hole tunnel. I had those punches at one time from my dad and those you made will work, I wouldn't be afraid to use a ball peen hammer to do a tap or two for mental security. most machinist shops have stuff like this if they are a generational shop or tools of the past., If I remember right, I set the one punch in the vice and with someone holding everything took two hammers .... one to rest on the rivet and one to hit that hammer to drive it solid. You still have to get it started spreading and then the other to make tight like your doing now. Many years gone by and memory is not as sharp as before. I know that drilling out the hole for the rivet head is scary but there has to be a way to rig a stop on that drill going to a stop point of drilling those old parts might all fit into some war chests that you make yourself so that should you have to go this deep again.... the old ones still have numbers to reorder from .... other wise while scrap is high..... :>) good luck
Our local NAPA machine shop still had the tools to rivet and grind brake shoe linings last time I checked. The equipment is still out there, tho it’s not common these days.
So if you have two engine's and you don't need one I would pack it in grease and either store or bury it for any parts you won't find in 5-10-20 years time if it's hard now it's going to have to be made from scratch in the future . Good luck 🤞
Great job Brother on making the rivet tool . I absolutely love this content. Great channel. Please keep going on this one and I hope you do something else after this .
For what it's worth there are brake lining rivet tools available on the web around $40. Even comes with the piloted counterbore. I get the value in making do with what you got and not having to wait for another doodad in the mail. But if it produced a better result and freed up your time for the next task? Sometimes I think "don't make it when you can buy it" is worth considering.
Matt, Keep all your engine and other parts. Put them in boxes and label them noting the bad parts and why you think they are bad. In the future you might reconsider using these parts when you need a part and it is not available. Keep up the good work, glad you found that running Cat engine. Wonder if in the near future the provider of your purchased engine might consider a reduced price for the other engine that he has that would fit your Cat. Keep in touch with him. Perhaps a few visits in the future would be in order. best regards, Sam
The clutch "throwout bearing" is interesting! I guess that since the clutch levers travel over center and lock , the clutch is either locked or unlocked - meaning that there are no springs? So the "throwout bearing" isn't under pressure unless you are in the process of locking or unlocking. Maybe this is why there is no bearing. And maybe the lost motion in the levers when unlocked allowed it to drop down and wear that plate egg-shaped? And those friction pads on the coupling, stopping the transmission input shaft when the clutch is disengaged - this must be how they got around needing synchronizers - it makes sure the gears aren't turning when you shift them. Interesting stuff! Good video - and creative tooling for the brake lining rivets!
I got the new throw out collar in today and it's clear how worn out the old one was, there is way less play. I have a theory on what happened, but I'll do that in another video. The clutch brake is manual though, after opening the clutch, you pull the lever a little further back to bring it into contact with that silver brake bracket. Gonna take some getting used to when I actually operate it, but at least I know how it works now, and I won't be grinding gears.
The shifter forks in a transmission work similar to the throwout collar - they contact the gears only when shifting, and aren't designed for constant contact. This must be why there is no ball bearing. And was there a funnel above the throwout collar for oiling it? Knowledge is power, and now you understand why the clutch needs to be pulled back that extra bit before shifting!
i have some videos on relining my insley clutches and brakes on my channel. i used my old friction material to set the depth. since you're not using a drill press just slide a piece of pvc pipe or something over the drill bit as a depth stop
Yep watched you getting the second hand engine. Slap the old one back together and put it under your stairs or sell it for parts. I would keeping though. You never know when you might need a part e.g. the head. Well done on the brake band. Yes be careful not to drill to deep like you did on one or two rivits. Iv seen people drill that counter sink all the way and stuff the lining. Okay viewers zero and Matt one re riveting the linings.
