Great explanation! Thanks for making this video.. I think i made the same "goof" while installing my clutch recently. Im gonna go over my judder springs now that I learned about this.
Actually, it's wrong. He installed the judder spring concave down. You are supposed to install judder Springs' concave up....The largest diameter goes in first. If you don't believe me Google conical spring go to images and look how conical springs function. The smallest diameter faces you and the biggest diameter faces the engine... Now the spring can compress. Installing it the other way the spring cannot compress all it does is destroy your steel disk by putting a gouge in it.
An absolute superb video! You guys rock! These tips are pure gold! If I had only known a couple of years earlier 😔. I thought the Haynes manual was all I needed 👎🏼 I messed it up the first time I did a clutch stack job on my then 20 year old Suzuki Katana 600 .. she never shifted gears smoothly ever again, even after I went back in and corrected (after watching this vid I now realise that only some of ) the mistakes I've made ... Hopefully, I'll get it right and in fully working order the first time this time on my 2016 GSX1250FA .. parts ordered, fingers crossed, as I'm planning to replace all 3 needle bearing kits too and not just the friction&steel plate stack, so the basket is coming out. (60000km/38000 miles on the clock) Thank you!
I don't know if it's going to work out yet or not the information I got from this video, but I have high hopes it will. Yeah possibly just saved me a lot of wasted time trying to figure this one out and keeping me from messing my bike up. I got me a 1985 Honda magna 500 v30 that I've been putting a lot of work and money into. Thanks for the good information. Keep it coming y'all
Best explanation video I've found so far, thank you so much! Concaved rings were deff an issue I ran into. Doing 08 cbr1k. Got it all replaced and back together, started the bike and kicked it into first. Wouldn't move, released the clutch while still in gear and the bike didn't even stall. Lol ripped it all apart and ended up dropping a spring inside the freaking oil pan. Not I gotta remove pipes and oil pan. Then figure out wtf I did wrong with the clutch. I will absolutely be back in these comments, any help/tips are appreciated as I have no clue wtf I'm doing lol
Después de quitar y poner el clutch tres veces y tres días de ver videos el de ustedes me ayudo a hacerlo bien< muchas GRACIAS .after taking the clutch off and putting it on three times and three days of watching videos, yours helped me get it right < THANK YOU
Excelente video hermano, saludos desde México, se ve cuando alguien sabe hacer su trabajo y aunque las pastas hayan estado lubricadas desde nuevas, lo hayas hecho una vez más, bendiciones
Fantastic video! So helpful. Quick question I have the same bike and I’m doing the clutch right now. The clutch rod is sticking to far out now so the pressure plate will not seat correctly. Ever see that before?
I have a 2007 honda cbr1000rr The clutch will not engage, I can see the friction plates opening when I pull the clutch in but it's still not engaging. The center clutch hub will not spin freely either if i put any amount of torque on it while the bike is in neutral. Coming from the diagram, All the washers are there. The guy I got the bike from stated his old mechanic rebuilt the entire bike and could never figure out the issue.
Thanks for posting this video as it’s exactly the one I’ve been hoping to see. This is incredibly useful! I’m having troubles with a Honda CB1300 clutch and thought it had something to do with this. The shop manual isn’t helpful on this at all. The judder spring info is priceless as is the final install of the spring plate into correct meshing. It’s all so obvious when explained properly but anything can be easy when you know how! Subscribed! 👍🏻
Great Video - there definitely seems to be alot of disinformation and debate about which way the orientation of the judder spring should go. So if i am understanding correctly the judder spring should be shaped like a dish if i am looking at it. This matches up with the manual (concave side out) but man alot of people - discussion boards etc have it the other way around. I can see why there is confusion . Even in this video if you look at the diagram at the 2:00 Minute Mark it shows the Judder Spring as being cone shaped out which is the opposite of what the rest of the video says. Still Confused?
Hi guys, gret video and thank you for focusing it and explaining the clutch install so well! You may have saved my bacon here! I have just installed a new gearbox in my RR4 2004 CBR1000rr. Since then, the clutch was slipping around 5000rpm range. So I have just installed a new clutch including plates and springs using all honda parts, no race or 3rd party parts. I put in 7100 Motul 10w40 oil. Ive completely bled the clutch and cleaned the piston in the slave cylinder. Ive even flused out the oil with a flush agent and gone back to a semi Synth 10w40 Liqui Moly. However, clutch still slipping. But your video shows what I did not do and that was to put the last plate to the next position on the inner wheel. So I am going to replace this. So if I put the last plate in the same channel as all the other clutch discs, would this cause the slip? Thanks again Guys! Great Videos!
So biggest friction plate in 1st which receives both judder springs with flatter of the 2 in first followed by the curved judder spring (here is that curved side going in first or front flat side of the curved judder spring goes in first with curved portion facing you or flat side daces you curved end first into basket ) ..then steel plate; friction plate ; steel plate like that your saying?
That's all the basic idea. The best answer is to follow the parts diagram and the service manual. The video is a good reference but every bike is different. Hope that helps!
Hey bro. Thanks for your videos, I rebuild the engine of my 2005 Yamaha yzf R1 but my clutch is not working, and I did it step by step, but it doesn't work. Do you have any idea about that problem?
On my ebc clutch kit, it's basically oem plus, same parts you have 2007 cbr1000rr. The only thing is that larger diameter friction plates, the one that goes over the jutter spring. I have 2 friction plates that are the same one as the one friction plate that goes over the jutter spring. What do I do with the 2nd friction plant that is direct from the other ones? Will it be the 2nd friction plate or last? Just bit sure where the 2nd larger inside diameter friction plate goes?
Only the friction plates are soaked in oil and how long is that process before you install rhem into bike ? And none of steel plates are soaked correct ?
I’ve got a 2011 1000rr. I have everything out but the basket. It seems to be binding on something on the right side as well as part of the casing on the left. It won’t come straight out. Any tips?
@@RedlinePowersports I did remove the needle. Only the basket remains. The teeth hit part of the casing on the left and on the right the teeth hit something somewhere behind the starting gear. Any suggestions?
Thanks guys great explanation and video I own a 06 R1.. Replaced My clutch with a bike bandit clutch last year I got rid of my jutter Spring and now my Clutch don't seem right might have to reorder my jutter Spring and put it back together even though a bike bandit says to get rid of it..Any Reply..or thoughts on this.?
Some clutch kits do not run a Judder spring. I would check with the manufacturer of that brand clutch to find out. The critical part of installing a clutch is stack height. This can be found in your service manual. A stack that is too short will slip and a stack that is too tall will have trouble disengaging.
Oh thanks for the Reply guys I really appreciate it..the Clutch kit i installed says discard the jutter Spring...its jest the clutch is tight on clutch lever and if I let it out fast it makes a screeching noise and grabs likes.I might pull the stack and check pack thickness like you said.i haven'tdont that yet...or could this be I don't have free play set up correctly...I followed the service manual..I am a Heavy Duty Mechanic so its not my first clutch..lol....pretty straight forward..any thoughts?..the Clutch works fine besides for that..
@@RedlinePowersports Thanks for the video its really helpful. I'm trying to fix an issue with my CBR 1000rr 2007 model. Would you mind maybe checking my most recent video I posted on my channel and have a read of the description to see what you think could be causing that?
My man, this is wrong imo. A judder spring is a conical spring. It is supposed to compress from the peak to the base. In other words, the peak of the spring should face you and the base should face the engine. You have the base of the spring facing you and the peak facing the engine. The spring will not compress or work that way. This is so wrong.
Unfortunately not. I have a clip in the video directly pulled from the 07 service manual. Pause it and zoom in. You will find our placement is correct. You can also reference a 2007 Honda CBR1000rr service manual.
@RedlinePowersports I'm not trying to be a jerk, but nowhere in the history of springs does a conical spring compress from base to peak. It always compresses from peak to base. It's akin to looking through a volcano and smashing the peak to the base. Expand your mind and just look at the history of belleville springs and conical washers. Have a good day.
So the engineers at Honda are wrong? They are the ones that designed the clutch and literally wrote the service manual. You aren't a jerk, I like the conversation 😊
@RedlinePowersports They are vague. Watch this video from the 50-second mark. This is the same spring as a judder spring it's just thicker. Notice how it compresses from peak to base. In a clutch system this is how it's suppose to be so that when you pull the clutch lever the spring deflects back to help the clutch pack disengage uniformly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xI2t42XmEns.htmlsi=X6MEhlVdx5iAQwiL
Some baskets are stock slippers like the Kawasaki ZX6R and can fall back between the hub of the basket and the back plate. That's what we were trying to illustrate in the video. Hope that helps!
