Excellent video, I switched to Hi-Tek and it’s nice to see that Someone with a lot more experience validates my process. Used to powder coat but find the Hi- Tek makes for better looking bullet
hope its easier then powder coating.. that shit just isnt working for me at all..nice im going to get some of that and give it a try...thanks for the video..
Love your channel. I just making sure you coat your pellets and slugs for PCP on all your guns? It’s safe for the gun and keeps accuracy in tact ? Thanks for the response
Great presentation. I think it’s pretty funny how either people love powder coating or using this product. I don’t understand why people have to be either or. I personally use both products. Eastwood powders on my undersized bullets and hi-tek on my bullets that are perfectly sized out of the mold and don’t need resizing. there’s a tool for every job, use what benefit you and if you get to use both of them that’s even better.
Awsome. I run hi tek coated bullets in both my 6" long slide 1911 10mm and in my Tanfoglio Limited Master 9x19mm. A friend I shoot 1000yd benchrest with at Williamsport just gave me a bunch of .38cal 158gr SWC hardcast for free for my 6" Security Six 357magnum that are not greased in the groove. I want to hi tek coat them and this video was extremely helpful and straight to the point without the usual irrelevant B.S. you have to sit through on so many videos. Thank you
Resize after. If you do it before there is a small percentage chance it will not adhere as well. People have done it on a severely oversized mould but I do not recommend.
Do you prefer 2 or more cavity for your molds? Besides the speed of casting what other benefits the 4-5 cavity molds have ? Do they heat up faster or about the same as 2 cavity molds ? At the moment both 2 and 4 cavity HTC356-135-RF-AH2 molds are available at NOE.
I use a warming plate while pot is heating so that heating to temp is irrelevant for my setup. However, the best answer I can give you, is the smaller the projectile the easier it is to cast more from a mold block. Smaller stuff, If I plan on making a bunch, I will get a 4 hole mold. If I am experimenting, I will usually get an aluminum 2 cavity. My favorite molds I will usually go back and get brass and keep the Aluminum now as a backup. Brass holds heat better and I get more consistent weights projectile to projectile.
Great presentation video. I just casted my first batch and used the same Hitek powder. After I was done with the coat I realized I used a bit too much for my amount of bullets and the coating was a bit thick. It did pass the wipe test but not the smash test. I guess its time for another batch :). How you like that NOE 135gn mold ? I got some Lee molds to start cheap, but I might be looking at NOE if I find cheap source of lead and want to cast lots of boolits.
@@fha9507 They look like great molds with some modular features like casting multiple size bullets with changing the bottom pins and the price very reasonable. I have tried to reach to NOE via email about some out of stock items and have not got any responds via email or phone. Full.Lead.Taco replied to me that Al was having some health issues and I'm not sure if they are able to make or ship any molds at the moment.
Oh lord. I had no Idea. Man I hope things are all well. I have his cell number. I will call him after work today. Thanks for the heads up. @@jolebole-yt
@@rfdsrd This notification just came through. It likely will it just depends on the temperature swing on the thermostat. I use the breville because there is none. You might have to adjust bake times. Let the acetone test and smash test be your guide.
I am a chemist. I heard a potential safety problem. Storing a highly volatile solvent like acetone in a non-explosion-proof refrigerator is a pretty severe safety hazard. The lid will work loose. The acetone will evaporate. The electric motor will spark--and up she will go. I saw an entire lab destroyed by this stunt once. Nobody got hurt, but that was a miracle. They make explosion-proof refrigerators. If I tried to reproduce this, I would only use metal or glass for anything that contacted acetone. You may not know it, but that acetone is extracting chemicals out of those plastics. It could conceivably cause weird problems. There is a reason acetone is only sold in metal or glass containers.
I live in Denver (Uggg) but plan on moving to a much more humid state that likes the 2A, but wondering on the drying time in high humidity. What is the humidity of your shop or does humidity affect the process in any way? Also, I noticed the coating does not get into the hollow point on some of them. I'm sure this doesn't affect accuracy, but why use HP at all? I like as consistent a process as possible. Thinking some with coating on the inside vs no coating would affect weight, therefor consistent accuracy. I know this is not match grade bullets, but I still like to come as close to perfection as the process allows.
Less that ten minutes even in 100 precent humidity. You can always let them preheat on top of toaster oven. I often do that when My oven is pre-heating and usually the next batch is on top of the oven while one is baking
So in talking teaspoons it's 2.25 teaspoons of the mix to 5 teaspoons of acetone. You could do it by weight as well with the manufacturers directions. It is just easier for me to do it by volume.
Where do you get the bullet molds for 124 or 115 grain 9mm bullets? Btw great video and processing, going to start doing it but need to get set up first
A very nice demonstration of how to use the Hi-Tek coating process. Your bullets looked well coated after the first coat so why the second coat and have you tried the bullets with only one coat? This whole process seems longer than a lube sizer, I have Stars and they are quick to lube and size the bullets.
It is this one www.williams-sonoma.com/products/breville-smart-convection-oven/?cm_src=WsiPip1&recstrat=View-View-1%7CVV-GRP-AFF-QNT&cm_sp=ossa_id_5_shown_6_v1
I appreciate your attention to detail with this coating. I've thought about this system, but I started powder coating a few years ago, done a few thousand bullets. Mine pass the hammer test as yours do. I've used three different manufacture powders, one being the Harbor Freight which I used a couple of times, not used any longer. I use powder from Prismatic and The Powder Coat Store, both excellent. No acetone, one coat finish, 10-20 minutes depending on powder specs. Throw the bullets in a plastic container with powder, swirl as you did, I stand mine up individually (not necessary, they're prettier that way) bake, cool and size, done. For me, there is zero benefit to adding more step, chemicals and repetition to accomplish what I already get in half the time.. . I experimented with acetone and powder coat, it produces a similarly thin coating that needed another so that was abandoned. My powder coat costs less than .005 cents per bullet and that's a high estimate. I typically do batches of 300 bullets at once, one coat, though a guy could do many more. Experiment, pick a system you like, have fun.
I started with the powder coating. I agree on both systems they work well. I was casting commercially at the time and the HTC system was more widely accepted. Powder coating was still relatively underground. You certainly have more color choices with the PC. I just stuck with the HTC. I may start powder coating again in the future as I no longer sell commercially. At least not till I retire from my day job in a few years.
they sure do look nice this way, just started with powder coat, we'll see how that goes first, seems a little thick for me, I'm wondering could i thin the powder coat with acetone also if i wanted to try it once?
I don't understand why people think powder coating (PC) is difficult compared to this multi step fiasco. Put 500 9 mm cast bullets into a dedicated spare bowl on your vibratory case tumbler with a couple table spoons of Eastwood PC and run it for 5 minutes. No mixing. No witches brew. NADA! Dump them out into a wire basket and pop them in the toaster oven for 20 minutes at 400*. Dump them out and break up the clumps, and let them cool. Push them through a sizing die in your Star, or a simple Lee push through die and you are done. If you think you need a full on PC static machine or a whip cream tupperware tub, you are doing it WRONG. I've made 1000's of PC 9mm in a single day. And judging from the Magma casting machine behind the work bench, so has this guy!
I don't necessarily think PC is more difficult. I have done it and it works, I just prefer the HiTek coating. I used to cast commercially and it is what I used and continue to use. PC works just fine, with the HT, I do not have to worry about it coming off when I do large batches staggered through my ovens. It's dry and stays there until I bake it. Sometimes I don't get around to baking a batch till the next day depending on the size run I am doing. With PC there is a chance it could be compromised if I do not bake immediately.
I size most all of mine except the 9mm. It comes in right where I need it after casting and coating. But yes all the others get a push through sizing with lee dies.
@@fha9507 Not sizing is a bad idea. Sometimes bullet molds are just a smidge open at the moment of casting. This is easily missed. Sizing everything eliminates the problem. But then, that begs the question... If you have to run them through a sizing die anyway, what's the point of the coating? As an outsider (with regard to coating), all I see is a lot of extra work that has no real point to it. If I am wrong, I'd like to know it.
The coating on these take place of the lube. These particular 9mm are run subsonic through a ruger 9mm carbine. They are extremely soft so any sizing issues if any are addressed when seating. They lead the barrel zero coating is 100 percent intact upon firing and recovery. I will do you a video with a bore scope after firing a bunch so you can see how accurate they are, how they do not foul the barrel and why so many of us coat. I appreciate your open mindedness. I have never been able to run such soft boolits when I was traditionally lubing. These expand to 2x diameter and are run around 1000 FPS. Also something to consider.... I am not sure how much you cast, but I always cast soft stuff a little over so the barrel will perfectly size for the boolit rifling with zero gas blow by. I do the same for my airguns and accuracy is INCREDIBLE. I know it seems a little suspect but trust me if you try it, you will be amazed at the difference in clean. I have never had to clean the bore of that carbine. It is like a mirror. @@davidkachel
Great video. I've been using the liquid form of HI-Tek for years..... but it's no longer available. This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
