How to: Hi-Tek Supercoat Bullet Coating This is how to use Hi-Tek bullet coating instead of using traditional wax methods. You can order from hi-performancebulletcoatings.com
Excellent instructional video. Much appreciated. You should make an instructional video on how to make an instructional video for the 90% of youtubers who lack the sense, understanding, or editing ability and produce bloated videos containing 5 parts pointless rambling to one part useful content.
I ended up on Choice Ammos website one day & seen a real good price on 250gr 45 LC rounds. I was very skeptical about the Hi-Tek coating. I ran 10 rounds through my revolver & cleaned it. I was shocked at the results. 3 passes through the bore, a pass through each chamber in the cylinder, & a wipe down of the exterior. I was sold!! The gun was so much easier to clean using the Hi-Tek coated rounds. So much so, Choice Ammo is the only rounds I'll put through it now. Keep in mind, i do not use any aggressive cleaners on that particular revolver. All i have ever used is Ballistol. I always have a case of Ballistol tucked away. I use it for everything!! Long story short... Hi-Tek coating the bullets makes a significant difference
I bought a few boxes of .38 SPECIAL 105 GRAIN TCFP BLACK HI-TEK COATED LEAD “COWBOY CHOICE” & it's the perfect solution to a problem. New shooters can handle these rounds without a lot of noise, kick & muzzle flash. Very mild. Much milder than even wadcutters. Accurate too & doesn't lead my barrel. 105 grain bullet at 650 FPS. New shooters can learn the fundamentals using these rounds & when they're ready they can move on to self-defense ammo. I saw their groups improve & they love shooting my Ruger LCR. They used to hate shooting it even with wadcutters. They don't trust my micro 9mm pistols because too many malfunctions from weak hands & wrists.
JR, thanks for watching. This process is an alternative to using wax as a lubricant for lead bullets. There is always fouling in the barrel. It might be copper from a fmj casing, or lead. I have found the Hiteck coating to be the best there is for the individual bullet caster. Bullets with this coating are also available from commercial casters. The process is relatively simple to perform as you saw in the video. It will take a little time to figure out how your oven and mixing process works best. I have discovered that the main reason for barrel leading comes from improper belling of the case before seating the bullet. The edges of a brass case are sharp and if allowed to scrape against the bullet, it will cut the coating leaving exposed lead. You don’t want that. Properly coated and loaded 9mm projectiles will leave little or no lead deposits in your barrel. Happy loading.
Dan, thank you very much for this video. It has pushed me over the edge and I am placing an order tonight. It looks a lot easier than the powder coating I am doing now. Because I'm a perfectionist, I cannot tumble when powder coating because I want them to look great. Powder coating looks great when using an electrostatic gun but is VERY time consuming and I can only do small batches. Thanks again for such an excellently crafted video, you've done your fellow casters a great service.
I just wanted to say thank you! I have been spray on powder coating and its been a chore. I was looking at Hi Tek but could not find clear and concise "how to" instructions until now! I went ahead and ordered some powder because of this video.
I repeated and it works. However, I used laser temperature measurement and realized it is good to use it instead of temperature control in oven. After the last time bake, I through them into water to have BHN+1.
Great video!! I was having so many problems before, as soon as I watched this I went out and tried... and got perfect results.. my finish is so much smoother and I am no longer getting the flaking..Thank you soooo much....I will be ordering more colors now..
Thanks for the video. I’ve been tumble powder coating for a few years. I don’t need to do it in bulk like you did so I’ll stick to my tumble PC method. I have a 1000 ACME bullets with Hitec and they look nice but no where as nice or thick of a coating as my PC tumbled boolits.
Well I guess i fell victim to the "doing what you always have done." mentality, I have been casting and reloading for almost 22 years.... I finally bothered to read an article in the "blue press" magazine and learned that there even were coatings like this...I will be ordering soon and changing the old dog way I have been doing things.
I think this is a great alternative to traditional lube, but I can't see this replacing powder coating. PC is so much easier and faster than HTC. Having to apply 3 coatings is a PITA. The results are pretty nice though 👍
OMG. Way cool. You are the man. Awesome video, And awesome looking bullets. I finally found another guy that is as nuts as me about perfection. I load each round perfectly to hit the bullseye, if it doesn't it's me not my ammo.
Thank you for this great tutorial. I am about to venture into reloading and casting, and I will commit to the Hi-Tek method rather than traditional lube. Kind of like I went with stainless pins instead of corncob to clean my brass. I love a better mousetrap and you have one.
jlag19 jlag19, casting lead bullets can be lots of fun and when I started I knew NOTHING about the process. I suggest you get a book or two on casting lead bullets. Better yet, find someone in your local area who is casting and make them your new best friend. Good luck and enjoy the ride. Capt. Dan
I might give this a try. I shoot about 2,000 rounds a year, and use the shake and bake and electrostatic gun powder coat methods. Both methods are quicker and can produce acceptable, if not better, results than Hi-tek.
Dan, this is a very informative and well presented video, I would presume with the equipment you have acquired it is a cottage industry and well done for that. For a plinker such as myself with a max of 200 rounds of pistol ammo per week the process and equipment needed would be not worthwhile, but in saying that I would definitely purchase your finished product, with the bullets that are less the grease groove. Keep up the good work on the vlogs.
WRSX, Thank you for your reply. I started out with wheel weights I begged from tire companies. Melted the stuff in the back yard and poured ingots into an iron biscuit mold. Then the round ingots went into a Lee bottom pour pot. Later I graduated to an RCBS pot. At that time I was pouring up jigheads for my fishing business. Somehow I was introduced to bullet making and have enjoyed collecting molds and thousands and thousands of bullets. I do not make them commercially but often give them to friends who reload. It's a hobby, and it's fun.
When you run your first batch you will have to adjust your time and temperature for your oven. It is best to test each batch out of the oven. If the first batch passes the test, it is likely subsequent batches will as well. If the acetone test shows color, you can put the bullets back in the oven but be careful not to over cook. A visual sign that bullets are over cooked is that the color will take on a slightly brown tint. Give one of the recooked bullets a strong smash with a hammer. If anything flakes off, you have over-baked, so back off the time a bit. Hope this helps.
Using 1000 9mm hi-tek coated slugs. SMOKE like crazy and you can almost taste a weird taste. Tried AA#5, W231 and Unique powders. Different pistols and they all smoke alot. Not sure why, but going to finish these and not get anymore. Shoot nice, but smoky.
This looks like a very much better system than powder coating, the finish and texture is far better than the patchy look that dry powder coating gives, at least with the shake method, can the dry powder be mixed with Acetone to give the same effect ?
Michael, I appreciate the opportunity to help. Please check out my videos on automatic Star Sizer and automated case sizing/de-capping. I hope you will enjoy your hobby for years to come.
You’re going to need a first aid kit (preferably one that contains a burn kit), notify next or kin, set your phone to speed-dial for 911, make sure to have your life insurance premium paid up, then have funeral arrangements made. Now!... let’s get down to how much better these coatings are that traditional waxing...
TAVA Canada, you are exactly correct. I am one of those OCO people. (That is: Obsessive Compulsive Obnoxious ) If it looks good to you, and works good in your gun, I say, GO FOR TWO!
Hey Dan, awesome video! I have 3 questions. 1. Did you buy the bullets, or cast them? 2. Do you resize them after coating? 3. How much are you saving when compared to buying hi Tek coated bullets? It seems the best bang for your buck will be casting and choosing your own, but that's really labor intensive. Thanks!
KindredGh0st, I cast my bullets on a Magma Master Caster. The bullets are sized "nose down" with a Magma Star Sizer. I love the thought of saving money with my hobby. It's like the wife coming home from the mall and telling me how much money she saved because the dress was on sale! Recovering the cost of lead, molds, equipment, electricity, your time, coating, etc., ... well, let's face it, "saving" is a nice thought but it is elusive! Commercially produced coated bullets are turned out by the thousands. A Magma Mark VIII bullet machine has 8 molds and casts up to 4,000 bullets per hour! There is no way you can produce a bullet more economically than a commercial casting company. That said, you can produce bullets that fit your exact specifications. For instance, I have a Sig P938 that prefers bullets sized at .355. I have a Noveski 300 BLK that at wants a .309 sizing. Because you are in control, you can custom manufacture to fit your exact needs. The color, though pretty, is just that. It adds nothing to the effectiveness except "the cool factor." The coating, however, is a revolutionary process that gets the smoke off the range, and the gummed up dies of your loading bench! And, I have to say, it's just plain FUN to go from a block of lead, and turn it into the exact bullet I want to use in each of my guns. Enjoy the process and the satisfaction that comes along with it.
Dan Dix thank you very much for the response Dan! I was hoping, really passing you were about to say "I'm saving a ton.". Dare to dream. I'm going to look up the carrying machine you mentioned. I'm staying to get interested in casting and coating. Thanks again good sir!
dan im new to this all i love the vid you are easy to watch good camera work and all.... why did you drag your hand in the time of 12:05 and 12: 06 did we miss somthing
Dear Dan, thank you so much for this great video! As I'm new to bullet coating it helped me a lot to get started. I did three (smaller) batches so far (Old Gold) and the result looks good, passes the Acetone test without problems but still flakes off about half the coating during the hammer test. I already increased the Acetone ratio and next will decrease the amount of suspension used per batch (so far 1ml per 600g of bullets). Any other thoughts from your experience what to change? AND: I've one question about your video: At 8'52 you mention that your oven is set to 485 degrees. But from the picture it more looks like 385 to me. What temperature do you use? Thank you for your advice and keep up the fun and good work! 😊
Sorry, for the temperature mistake. 385-390 degrees is right. Don't change the mixture ratio. It sounds like you are cooking too long or too hot. If the Gold color starts to turn a little brown, back off the cooking time. Once you zero in on the magic combination of temp an time, this is a breeze.
Hello Dan! Thank you very much for your video (and another videos), I'm a beginner in lead bullets molding, so in coating - too. Watched some hardness tests of lead bullets, and usualy the most hard bullets are: from mold to water -> 20 min baked (if powder coating "shake and bake") and again to water for quenching. Did you compared hardness of bullets, maybe between not coated bullets and bullets that after coating (3 cycles of baking, without water quenching)? And also info from some "ISO"-like standards and test, that molded bullets get maximum hardness after 1 week of staying by themselves on the shelf) I trying to bake after 1 week, to decries hardness loss, but usual "shake and bake" on mesh or putting each bullet on silicon matt by pincett...it also got damage on bullets and layer of powder every time a little different. So...trying to find minimum loss of hardness and maximum usable process of full coating. Thank u very much, Nikita from St Petersburg, Russia ;)
Hello Dan, thank you for the awesome video. it helps greatly. I have a question please, where would you recommend to buy a 9mm cast bullet for coating? Thanks again and have a wonderful day.
Lajos, there are many variables in this process. I'm sure there is a maximum number of bullets that can be coated with each bottle or container of powder. I don't know that number. That's a fixed number that can be achieved only if every ounce of coating is used. It is unlikely you will coat with that precision. Rather than single bullet cost, this process should be seen as the best alternative to wax lube, or powder coating. Sometime in the next few years you will see wax lubed bullets vanish as fast as wind-up watches. Bullet molds will no longer be made with lube grooves. The firing line will be relatively free of smoke, and we will all breathe a little better. This coating process is simple, but like casting your own bullets, the individual cost of one bullet is more than the cost of the lead and bullet mold. Just as you enjoy casting your own bullets, the coating process is one more opportunity to personalize your projectiles. Enjoy your hobby. This is fun stuff!
May I inquire as to the starting BHN of your boolits? I've read from some sources that for loading hitek bullets, using a lower BHN is possible with the HiTek coating providing a degree of added protection.
I am trying to get the powder to work, but I have had limited success. I worked with the company and finally had some success, but now back to failure . The bullets come out with a very rough first coat. They pass the acetone test but I can scratch the coating off. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Dan have you tried to make your own bullet mix? Here is what I do: I add 100 grains of powder coat (Harbor Freight red) to 1 ounce of Acetone and I use 1/4 teaspoon of mix to 1 pound of bullets. 400 degrees for 8 to 10 minuets. I coat twice and wow it is great. Much cheeper. Ed Collins Holly Ridge NC
Ed, I have seen powder coated bullets. The colors and brilliance is terrific, no doubt about it. I have never tried powder coating so I am ignorant on the process. I coat 30 lbs. of bullets at a time. That's about 550 45ACP bullets, and over 1000 9mm bullets at a time. Perhaps I will give powder coating some time. Thanks for your comments.
Hey, Dan. Great video but it looks like you mostly skipped over the part about the required Hardener. What's the ratio, how long does it remain stable? Is the correct ratio 20 g of powder, and 5g of hardener and 100 ml acetone if mixing your own? Is the temperature and time in the oven related to curing the moly resin? When setting up for the first time, is the rub test the best test for determining properly cured resin at each step? How sensitive is the material to mix ratio errors? How long before the admixed coating sets up in the can? Is the mix stored at room (or garage) temperature or in a refrigerator? How do you tell it's about past shelf life once mixed? Does the hot smoke contain hazardous to health chemicals and the wearing of a chemical respirator advised? Lot's of questions from a guy that is used to working with curing type chemicals, many of which can kill you or not work at all due to mix errors, so I'm sure the not so familiar will appreciate your answers too. Good shooting!
Thank you very much. Be sure to check out 2 videos I posted on how to automate a Star Bullet Sizer. If you cast and coat bullets this is a must have setup. I size about 700 in 20 minutes. It is fantastic.
Hey! Loved the video, and tried this for the first time yesterday. I did Red Copper, and after the first bake they came out green...? Second round seemed to help, but it was copper splotches over green... Was it a bake/time issue? What can I try to remedy it? Thanks!
Cody,I assume you are mixing the powder version. After adding acetone to the powder you will want to mix it thoroughly. Best results will be after the mixture has had time to absorb the powder. Try mixing today for coating tomorrow. The first coat is often splotchy. The final coat should be the desired color.
@@DanDix Yes, the powdered version. I did mix about 24 hours before the first application, and it looked really throughly mixed, and the first application prior to baking looked like a light nice coating that it showed in your video. But after baking (10 minutes @400 degrees) all but 1 or 2 had turned green... I'm just trying to find out if it was potentially a baking time/ temp issue.
cody kom I would drop the temp to 390, set timer for 5 min. Open to vent smoke, stir bullets around, and heat the second 5 minutes. I do know it is important that your raw bullets be free of any lubricant such as oil or wax. Other than that, I can’t think of how the green specks showed up. However, the first coat is just that, it’s the last coat color you are looking for.
@@DanDix Ok, thanks. I'll try that. Yeah, it's not green specks, the entire bullet is like forest green. I appreciate your time! I'll work on my heat and time!
Thank you for sharing your process! Do you happen to have any recommendations on ensuring the lube groove gets filled? I have been experimenting but all the bullets in a batch are not getting the groove filled and that is even after 2-3 coats.
Try adding a little more Acetone to give more viscosity to your mix. A rapid and vigorous agitation will also help. Try these suggestions and see if it helps.
I used gold color and followed your instructions for 3 coatings, I tested one with the hammer test, which it passed, but with the acetone test, there was very slight color that came on the paper. What does this mean?
Probably you will want to increase your cook time slightly. Try increasing it by 20-25 seconds for both times. Also check your temp with a thermometer. If your Bullets start looking brown instead of gold, shorten your time. One other thing to check is the amount of coating used. If your Bullets stick together after applying the coating, you are adding too much. This could also affect cooking time. Remember, thin coats are better than thick coats.
I’m not familiar with HTC. There are several options when considering bullet coatings. First, and foremost, is which one will accomplish the job of protection from leading in the barrel. Let’s assume, though I don’t know this is true, that the all have equal protection. The next consideration should be related to the volume of bullets you want to coat. Each process has steps necessary for successful bonding: coating to lead. I can only speak to Hi-Tek coating in this regard. If you are casting thousands of bullets, Hi-Tek offers the fastest method of coating large volumes. It takes essentially the same amount of time to Hi-Tek coat 500 bullets as it would to coat 1,500 bullets. Considering the advantage of large batch processing, this could also offer economic savings as well. However, the best coating for you is the one that covers your volume, budget, equipment, and confidence level. I hope this was helpful. For my needs Hi-Tek is the best option. Dan
In my opinion its main purpose is to protect the lead bullets from oxidizing. Oxydized lead bullets will harm your barrel, because lead oxide does have a much higher degree of hardness than blank lead. The coating is important when you want to store the bullets for a longer time.
Sounds like a major pain in the ass. I spend all my days on the reloading bench. 6000 pistol rounds in the last three or four months + a couple of thousand bottle neck cartridges It sounds like we are doing two separate full time hobbies..
When I first started I used a toaster oven. Of course your batch size will be much smaller. I found that it was tough to keep from having hot spots on the bullets. If you have a convection oven that will help a lot! A single layer is best. Remember, if your bullets stick together you are applying too much coating. It takes some experimenting to get what works best for you.
@@DanDix Please help! I followed directions to the dot but it's not passing the acetone test! First I've tried 6ml to 6lb of bullets per directions of 1ml to 1lb. I have Red Brick color and colors are not translucent like yours when it came out first time. I've went all the way down where I was using 1ml per 7lb of bullets - all it did just resulted in less coverage where anything even cut down in half resulted in perfect coverage after 2 coats but none of the batches pass the test! The smash test passed just fine, although I discovered something else now too - I can scratch this beautiful coat with my FINGERNAIL! Where I can see bare lead but smashing with hammer doesn't flake. I've tried baking from 375 - 390F, I got oven thermometer and I am using convection the temp is not perfect, it's little bit over. I am using cheap Walmart oven thermometer so I don't know who to trust but at end of bake I noticed the temp climbs to about 405F but not flaking, love the color and it's not changed dramatically like in your video. I do get fumes coming out while backing. I've tried backing from 11 min to 16. At this point I have backed about 40lb of bullets and pretty frustrated. I never had this problem with PC, it was very tough and would never scratch off with nail.
@@DimaProk Dima, you are on the right track. From what you described here are a couple of suggestions. Make sure the coating is completely dry before placing in the oven. This can take a considerable length of time, especially during cold weather. As the acetone drys it cools the bullets significantly. Cold weather makes this initial drying time longer. With this in mind, the first coat is the foundation. It MUST bond to the metal or successive coats will have nothing to bond with. I use a combination of a fan blowing on the bullets to help them dry, and a couple of heat lamps (not too close), to help keep the bullets warm. Next, oven temp is important, but bullet temp is what you are looking for. The coating needs to achieve the correct bonding temp. With a small oven that process is more complicated. If you raise the temp to heat the bullets to the correct temp in the time allotted, you might over cook one side of your bullets. In this case it might require some imagination. You might try a “step process” during your baking. Just raising your temp or lengthening the time might burn the coating leaving a dingy or browning on one side of your bullets. Small ovens have bullets closer to the heating element. This may require more time to open the oven to move the bullets around and that will also require more cooking time for the oven and bullets to again reach the optimal temp. Keep in mind, THIS IS AN INDIVIDUAL PROCESS! If everyone had the same oven, same work environment, same batch size, and coating application, then a printed process could be developed. Keep good notes of what you are doing because your process will be unique to you! The best part is that you can always melt poorly coated bullets and reuse the lead. When you cast your first bullets you had a learning period for what works best for you. This is simply the next step in that learning process. ENJOY THE PROCESS.
@@DanDix Just wanted to follow up, I found that in the winter and we have mild ones in WA it took 16-17 min at 410 to get the proper cure. I got cheap oven thermometer and put it in the middle of the tray with the bullets, the temperature would raise to 425F sometimes. I also got digital thermometer with probe from Amazon and 2 thermometer don't always agree on temperature to make matters worse. I had to preheat for solid 12 - 15 minutes otherwise the temperature would not even reach the proper level and I found that sometime I have overbaked it too with paint chipping off during smash and sizing. There is actually very delicate line between getting under and over. Never had that problem with PC. I did find a solution that if you don't get proper cure 1st time you can just bake it again and 2nd time around it would work. Right now with mild summer it's 66 - 70F in garage and last time I tried 13 min @ 400F and still failed the acetone test, so I had to do 2nd time bake and increase time to 14min and it was a pass. After the 2nd coat it still had faint color rub off, so I think I'll do 15 min next time but if I overbake it that's it, there is no fixing for that. I found that temperature varies on thermometer even when I am using same temp and min preset. If I don't preheat enough the temperature might not even reach 390 and if I run a cycle or 2 and it will overshoot.
Moly coating is unusefull. It adds one more factor to make your load unconsistent, and doesnt make the barrel last longer. When you shoot it's also one more toxic chemical to breath. A lot of work for nothing
Hi dan, I have a Uberti 1860 44cal revolver with a 45colt cylinder conversion. Is this bullet shown on your video compatible? If not can you recommend a good Fit for me? Thank you 🙏
Truth Seeker, the bullets in the video are all 9mm. However, I have cast and coated .380, 9mm, 40 Cal., 45 ACP, and 300 BLK. In my opinion, the coating is perfectly suited to pistol calibers and rifle that stay below 1050 FPS. Hot pistol loads may not work as well, but I actually have no experience with hot or +P loads.
Most likely you cooked them too hot or the right temp but too long. I have noticed the Zombie Green is very sensitive to longer cook times. Shorten your cook time with your next batch. Good news: if they don't turn out the way you want, just melt them and do over. All you have lost is a little coating and some experimental time. Since every oven is different this process is not a "one size fits all" process. In the final analysis, the color is nice, but the real benefit is in loading and firing. Enjoy the learning process
+Dan Dix thanks Dan I ran another batch last night and at 8 min is about the right time for me in my oven. The color seems right but the texture seems a little rough for my liking I've tried adding more acetone and less agitating time so u have any ideas
+Todd Newsome Several things can cause a rough texture. First and most importantly do NOT apply too much coating. Thin coats are better than heavy coats. Next, and most importantly is the time you spend agitating as you mix the color on your bullets. DO NOT agitate to the point where the bullets begin to stick together. I always try to dump mine out a few seconds early, especially with the final coating. They should appear shiny wet on your drying screen. Next, shake them on your scree very little. I only give one shake after I dump them on the screen and one more time halfway through the drying process. Last thing to check is the size and texture of your drying screen. 1/8" squares and smooth screen is best. And remember, if your bullets are sticking together you are using too much coating. It is surprising how little you actually need. One more thought., clean up after you coat. Clean the agitating bucket when you finish for the day.
Bill, there are two tests to insure the bullets are properly coated. The first is the tissue test. After each coat is removed from the oven, and cooled, rub a test bullet briskly on a paper towel with Acetone on it, at least 5 or 6 times. If any color rubs off you know that the coating has not cured properly. Because every oven is different you should expect some experimenting time to zero in on the perfect combination of temperature and time. A good starting point is to have the oven around 385-390 degrees. I leave my bullets in the oven for at least 8 minutes, and then open the door to vent smoke and fumes. At this time I stir the bullets or shake the tray to keep the bullets from baking all on one side. The oven is then closed for another 4 minutes. This is my process, with my oven. It will certainly be different for your setup. The second test is the smash test. If no color comes off on the tissue, take that test bullet and give it a serious smash. If the coating flakes off the coating has baked on too hard. Here is the part of the tuning process. Arriving at the correct temperature and bake time is your goal. This may sound complicated but once you find that "sweet spot" for your oven and volume of bullets, all the guesswork is done and you are coating and having a blast. (Pun intended).
Israel Quintero : The best way to produce bullets without lube groove is to simply make them by extruding them on your press, some people grind away at their mould with a Dremel, but that usually produces a very out of round bullet, the extruded bullets are much more consistent than cast bullets as well, and the extruder die s simple to make.
I assume you mean the color comes off after you are finished when you rub it with acetone. This indicates that the temperature of the coating and lead has not reached a temperature of 385 for at least 2 minutes. A thick bullet will take longer to heat to that temp than a thinner one. Try to keep your oven at 385 and lengthen your time slightly. Check a bullet after each coat to test. I'm not sure about putting it back. Try it and see.
lol. It's a matter of perspective. Once a streamlined system is developed, it's not much at all from my perspective. In 13 minutes which was mostly instruction and not labor, he went through one round of the process. I bet the 3 rounds it takes could be done in the same amount of active labor time, if not less. 13 minutes or less to coat 500 bullets--not bad at all.
Matt, the liquid coating comes with separate amount of hardner The powder version of the same thing has the hardner mixed in the powder. Get the powder, it is best.
He is typical of experts that know their subject so deeply, they take for granted fundamental things they think you should know, then focus on the details, not realizing you have to know WHAT is being detailed for information on those details to be any good... He's going off on sizes of containers and gram weights of things he hasn't explained how or why they are being used? I'm out.
In my opinion the main purpose of coating bullets is to protect the lead bullets from oxidizing over time. Oxidized lead will harm your barrel. If you fire your lead bullets shortly after molding them, you will not need to coat them.
The value of time is apparent when batch size is considered. I takes the same amount of time to coat 50 bullets as it does to coat 800. If you prefer a small batch size, then this might not be suitable for your needs. I’m simply demonstrated what works best for my batch size. I completely understand, Butch. Different strokes for different folks. 😀
No thanks with your method. I don't want to spend my time playing with them. I want to make them, Load them and use them with no muss no fuss. And no barrel leading.