Very well Done! Very comprehensive! I just installed my V3 on my 2013 STI. Had a short blast up the road and it felt good. Will give it a good test tomorrow.
This is a really good video, bro. Thanks for the walkthrough... my only suggestion is to lose the background music. There's no need for it when I'm really trying to listen to what you're saying. The music just acts as a distraction. Otherwise, thanks man.. I appreciate you helping me out.
Installed a Cobb and K&N filter on my 2016 Sub Forester XT. NO OTHER MODS and I get a 0-60 5.4 and 22.7 psi. To say that I’m very happy is an understatement!
9:00. Dont worry, i test all my 0-60 and quarter miles on my residential street near school zones. The people drive slow there so it is safe for me to pass them. When i go fast. I caught the police chief cheating on his wife so he lets me go through there without a cop pulling me over. Otherwise ill release the video. Havent hit any kids yet, my car is loud enough all the kids stop moving when im near. So it helps. Anyways, great video!
A you need to know is if you don't understand the numbers and you drive it too hard and don't maintain it like its your kid, you will ruin the motor in no time, all for the measly small power these are good for without spending +75% of the cars value in upgrades. Recommendation, really think very deeply about how much you need to do for a car that is pretty slow when there's stock, warrantied cars out there that will have this on a leash dragging it around, without the headache. This from experience and people I know personally, experienced. Its a car for those who do their own work on it or are very bad with money management.
So basically it’s like putting ur car on a dyno and re flashing the ecu and maps ur car differently to every aftermarket parts I add, except finding what numbers ur cars run
The car had been idling for a few before the video and it was about 85 degrees in the garage at the time. Without load on the motor, there is no harm being done to the motor in this situation.
@@EdgeAutosport the only time revving does no harm is when the engine oil is to proper temp. Cold oil doesn't flow as well as warmed oil... this is critical is boxer engines(especially the 2.5 in this car). So yea, don't rev a cold engine... the few minutes you ran it before video and your ambient temp, are not a proper "warm up" temp. Again especially for the frail ringland situation with the 2.5. (Subaru could have easily fixed this ringland issue one of 2 ways.... strengthen piston's ringland areas, preferred to keep the EPA ratings they needed... or.. widen ring gap and allow for expansion knowing people would mod the engines. Either under modding would have helped the curse. Also a flat type engine does not flow cold oil as well, again, don't rev needlessly when cold, while it's a very linear design. It still has some problematic torque thrust issues out of boost, which is where most screw their engines. (Lugging) The Subaru EJ can be very reliable at quite decent power, but needs proper maintenance and checking (EJ's lose oil.... just like a rotary.... not as much oil but enough to cause issues. ) simply put, keep eye on oil, keep oil and TINY FILTER CHANGED..... when tiny filter can't filter enough it goes into bypass to maintain oil pressure. Bypass means no filtering of your nasty turbo cooked oil..... which means if anything else goes wrong.... it all gets a dose of the issue..... shit.... sorry.... I'm ranting...2005 WRX owner... bought the car and had to immediately pull and rebuild engine. (Top side.. head gasket issue). Anyway.... first WRX was a 2009.... so I have experience with the 2.0 and 2.5, and yes, I rebuilt the current engine myself, not a shop.... over 8k miles so far and a few moments over 22 psi boost. I'm doing tuning for first time so had a few over boost moments lol. About to put 1100cc injectors from a friend's wrecked 2008 and his VF52 he had on it. I already installed several other parts from his car. And if anyone reads this through, I'm running a 2.0 EJ208, they were in JDM twin turbo legacy's, maybe other countries got them. (We didn't) It's obviously single turbo set in my car as the steering system won't allow the twin set up to fit.
Got a 2011 WRX and live in Australia, am interested what maps are available to suit our fuel (91, 95 and 98) and whether this needs to remain plugged in once a map is flashed over. Can I drive around without it plugged in and retain the flashed map?
It depends on the octane rating method used at your local gas pumps. In the USA, we typically use the average of RON and MON. I think much of the world uses the RON method. So as long as you know the method, you'll know what map to use. This is from Cobb's site. Maps designated with "93" are for use with 93 octane fuel (98 RON) or better. Maps designated with "91" are for use with 91 octane fuel(95 RON) or better. So it looks like you'll be using 98 or 95. I would highly recommend using the highest octane fuel you have available to you and using a map that that does not go higher than that. You can definitely drive the car without the AccessPort plugged in. It will still have the map on it. Once you unmarry it though, you must remove all flashed maps and return it to stock.
Hey! Awesome video! My DAM keeps on dropping to .625 and lower. Sometimes it’ll creep back up but I have to reset most of the time. I’ve been going to the same gas station for awhile now. Right now it’s stuck at .938. What could be the issue?
Unless you're performing specific logs or looking for something specific while driving, I usually monitor AFRs, Boost, Feedback Knock, Fine Knock Learn, DAM, AFR Learning, and AFR Correction. Some of those names might be a tiny bit off. I didn't look at them to respond to this. If you don't know what any of those are, I suggest looking at Cobb's extensive help files to understand them. But all those values are very relevant to what's happening in your car. The AFR's on any EJ are sort of subjective because it doesn't have a sensor that reads AFRs accurately at WOT so every time you go WOT it's just going to show a single lower value no matter what and it's not reflective of what your actual AFR is. That's when an AFR gauge can be helpful or a dyno tune that uses a wideband AFR sensor.
Awesome video! I currently live in Utah. If I buy this and select the octane best for Utah, what would happen if I go to a different state and have to use other octane gas? Would it mess anything up in my car?
There are OTS maps for 2 different octanes, 91 and 93. Being in UT, you'll most likely use the 91 since that's probably the best gas you have. If you go to a different state that has 93, you can switch to the 93 map, no problem. At the end of the day, it's generally okay to use a 91 map with 93 gas, but not a 93 map with 91 gas. You always want to use a gas that matches or is higher than the map you are currently on.
If I wanted to install a new map from my computer, like the Brentuning burble map that matches with any of the Cobb OTS Maps, how do I safely unplug the AP? Just turn the car and the AP off, unplug it, and plug it into the computer? Or is it more complicated than that?
@@EdgeAutosport thank you so much for taking the time to reply! I have a 2011 Sti, and i want to combine an intake and downpipe, however i have heard that you cannot run the 2 of them, since the fuel system wont handle it, but does cobb accesport v3 003 has a map for this 2? Like stage 2 +? Anyways, thank you again! For your time! Great video! Have a great day!
I know they have pre set maps but what I’d I just throw on a intake and exhaust do I pick a day what I put on or pick the best pre-set that goes with it
The temp guage wasn't in the Max cold, you can see it was pre warmed just not at full running temp. Reving the engine cold is bad but slighter warm not under boost won't hurt anything!
quick question does the bubbles in the middle of the screen mean u have to shift when it flashes red or does it mean i have to take it easy when i’m driving it ? jus bought my 2006 subaru wrx wit economy tune
Yes, when you first install it it backs up your original ecu image. When you uninstall it, it writes that image back on. It's best to uninstall it 2-3 days before bringing it in to a dealer, so the ecu can relearn values like fuel trim, ignition timing, wastegate duty cycles. If you uninstall it and drive right to the dealer they could see (if they really wanted to) many of the values are not yet learned and may suspect it was tuned.
So you'r saying when I slap that on I can put new exhaust system and performance air filter and i don't have to get proper tune from dyno place??? Sorry my English :)
If you stick to COBB OTS maps and the parts they call out, you simply load a new map from their site - if you are planning to mod past OTS maps or want a better tune, you will buy a protune and the tuner will make a map for you and then load it on.
Dude, excellent video! 2 thumbs up, and a standing ovation! Next time call your video Cobb Accessport for dummies! Lol! I have one question for you, do you know if a Cobb Accessport will void a Car's warranty?
Recently purchased a 2012 WRX that came with an accessport and their own settings configured to it. Just go it plugged in and running and I wanted to ask if there would be any harm if I was to reset to default access port settings to just get a feel for it, then swap back to what I purchased the car with. Basically I just want to see the difference from what I currently have set to default. Air intake and exhaust is different but that’s not really my concern. Just wondering if I was to swap back and reflash, that wouldn’t cause any harm to my car in any way right?
Probably not with just an intake and exhaust. But with the intake, Subaru's are sensitive to changes so that's why running a tuned map for whatever intake you have is ideal.
hi, can anyone tell me please why do I have a check engine light blinking on my 2003 WRX which has the COBB in it. I had a friend of mine hook up the scanner but nothing shows.
It's all subjective, but like he said, boost is a good one. I also prefer oil temp and pressure because your stock dash only shows radiator temps. It's a nice gauge to have.
No, it does not. You can leave it unplugged and we encourage you leave it unplugged while the car is parked too so people don't see something to break in for. However, with up to 6 gauges to monitor, the more modified you are, the more useful you'll find it to be plugged in 100% of the time while driving just to monitor.
Hi there I have wrx 2006 the engine rebuilt with the sti short block and replaced with gtpso2 turbo 3”exhaust with down pipe and Perrin el header bigger top mount inter cooler air intake and custom tune with this ap set up what stage map tune should I go 2or3? And the previous custom tune still there or not? If I want to back oh I forgot to mansion that I live in Australia and the car running with 98 octane of fuel please reply with thanks…
Unless you followed a COBB OTS map for a specific aftermarket turbo, you should be getting a custom tune for it. When in doubt, reference the COBB tuning website, but it sounds like you definitely need a custom tune. If you didn't swap your ECU, I would imagine the last flashed map is still present.
I accidentally turned it on when it says turn to on position. I turned it off and it turned it back on after the 15 seconds and it was fine. You think I’ll be alright ?
does it give other options for higher octane fuel in other countries? for instance on nz we can get 95 and 98 octane...thanks in advance and great vid!
It doesn't. But our gas uses RON+MON/2 method so whatever that translates into at your pump, just use the closest thing to it without using a map that's higher than the map suggests.
What if I bought the car with a lot of aftermarket parts like tgv delets rotated turbo full exhaust mishimoto radiator boost control and a turbo blow off valves a 2011 wrx how would you recommend me doing an install? Just wondering if it would delete a tune if the car already had one?
Anytime you flash a car, it is deleting the old tune. If you were to purchase this for your car with that setup, you would need to immediately get it custom tuned at the same time.
If you add parts that one of the OTS maps is made for, you can flash a different OTS map. If your mods exceed what the OTS maps are designed for, then we suggest getting a custom tune.
I have about 12 to 14k worth of performance (aftermarket) parts in my 2011 WRX hatchback. Not sure where your located but my dyno tune for my car is $500 by AWD Tuning in Plano, Texas aka right next to Dallas, Texas. I'm going to be trading in my v2 for a v3 to get the 50% back deal going on currently. Since I'm on a stock Subaru (EJ) block & don't want to have to go with an STi aka 6 gear transmission being that after 350awhp. In a WRX non STi the STi transmission is needed or you will blow the transmission 😉 Also the stock block can only hold up too 400awhp before you'll blow your stock block. I'm going to shoot for 320 to 325awhp, safe tune, on my dyno tune here soon even though I could go higher 😁
Thanks for the video. Never consider getting one but now I do. But I have jdm 2000wrx, will it work with it, and what power or other benefits from using AP?
Sorry for the noob question, but does the Cobb contain flashings/mappings for improving performance on naturally-aspirated Subaru engines as well (I'm thinking particularly of the H6s, but hey if it can add a few ponies to the H4, that couldn't hurt either)?
