I got the 60R around the same time as you posted this review. I decided to pull the trigger on a sale even though I couldn't find any independent output testing at the time. Thanks for posting your results! Its super helpful and reflects what I'm seeing with mine. I was a little bit disappointed that the output is a bit lower than my Godox SL60, but it more than makes up for it in versatility and compactness. I'll probably get a couple of the bi-color units and then I can fit an entire three point setup in a single bag.
Glad it was useful! Yes, this light is a few hundred lux dimmer than a daylight-only 60 watt light, but it comes out to 1/3 of a stop or less, so in practical use it makes no difference, which is nice.
I'm not surprised! I have the 220 and 320 also, which is the only bi-color light I know of with tint control! I'm excited to test that one out further.
I have the 60 and the 220 ... the 220 IS A BEAST - I put a bowens 4' lantern on it and its like a mini moon its just so good... and I like the haveing the little pocket wireless puck thing controller... Colbor is crushing it. Like the Viltrox of lighting... cheap but DANG>>>>
Very good review. Thanks a lot for the info in terms of USB-C power solution. If you clamp these lights together with its Nato system, it`ll block all light formers, I guess.
Thank you SO much, this is benchmark level of review. One thing you didn’t mention though is the fan noise.I’m particularly interested in CL60R fan noise, cause opinions are differ about this one for some reason. I have other Colbor lights, like CL60M and CL100X and in “quiet mode” they are dead silent. I wonder if this is the case for CL60R as well
In general, I think fan noise is drastically overstated. Very early budget LED COB lights had louder fans, and I think it traumatized people, haha. In the last 2 years and 25+ lights I've tested, none have been loud enough to worry about. Unless you do specialized work where you need complete silence, or have your mic only 2 feet from your light, it's not going to be picked up. My PC is louder than any light I've tested in the last couple years, and it runs indefinitely while I record without issue. With that said, I didn't notice the CL60R being any louder or quieter than average. Hope that helps.
Interesting review on color and brightness accuracy. What about at 6.500 k? I appreciate the other points being made. Just bought the Colbor CL60 this afternoon and have been testing it to see what I bought. At 6,500 k setting, the measured CCT is 5,810 k, with Lumu light meter, and a meter away. Lux. is @ 1,833 lx, less than 2,082 lx advertised on their site. To make it close to the daylight 6,500 k, one needs to crank the green all the way to +10, max., in the settings. But, if you don't have a light meter, you are clueless on what you are seeing. At 2,700 k setting, the measured CCT is 2,630 k, with 1,419 lx. CCT is much closer at this setting. If you are a foot way from the LED, the CCT is better, but still falls short at 6,110 k, when set for 6,500 k. Lux. is at 21,220 lx in this situation. I was reading on their site that the CRI is at 97+. I just don't see that happening in this situation. Guess this thing will be going back to Best Buy.
Before returning the light, I would get ahold of another spectrometer for testing. In my experience, and based off of comments from other users, the Lumu can easily be 1000K off of Sekonic C-800 readings, and I've never seen a C-800 that isn't very, very accurate. I have seen people measure incandescent bulbs with Lumu meters and get readings in the 4000s, then measure outdoor sunlight at noon at get nearly the same reading. Overall, they can't be trusted, and last I heard they are stopping support for their products/are shutting down. In regards to Colbor listing CRI of 97+, I agree that is stupid. Very, very few lights I measure hit 97 CRI, but the dumbest thing is that it doesn't even matter, haha. SSI is most important, then tint, and as long as the CRI is in the 94-95 or higher range, with individual R values high enough, they are 100% fine.
On the first topic, I agree that one needs to use the most accurate measuring tool available. It would have been a good idea for the manufacturer to provide a certificate of calibration, just as some makers of monitors include them. I test my LUMU occasionally out on bright sunny days with clear skies, and I can tell you that it is very accurate. But, I will definitely do more research on what other users are saying about their expenses. On the second topic, they should have provided their calibration results with the product. That would have made the consumers more trustworthy of their products. In the end, it would have helped the company by a large margin. I mean, if you got the product show your data points and then customers would love you and trust your product. Easy marketing, also.@@NewLayer
What goes in the bottom of the mount? I went to Best Buy today and the gut on the floor was nice enough to open the box up so we could take a look. The mount obviously mounts to the light on one side, but the bottom end just has a hole with a screw that goes through it. I can't find any mention on the Colbor website of how to mount the light or what goes into the hole on the bottom of the mount. What do you use and what can you recommend?
It's just a standard mount you'll find on 99% of lights that you can stick on to anything with a baby pin. A baby pin is what you'll find on virtually every light stand, or you'll find things like wall mounts and all kinds of other things with baby pins on them for more permanent installs. If you tell me how you'd like to use it, I can suggest the best ways to mount it if that helps.
@@NewLayer Wow. Thank you for getting back to me on that. I haven't gotten one yet but if I do then I'll use it for a few different situations but it would always be mounted on the underside. I can't imagine mounting it from above.
No you can't. Connecting them uses the entire rail, so the Bowens adapter has nothing to attach to, and it's bigger in diameter than the actual light itself.
You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Colbor+CL60R&light2=Sutefoto+P100+RGB Very similar, although the P100 RGB is about 1/2 stop brighter since it's 100W. Most of the differences are in the form factor and build quality.
@NewLayer Hello, please tell me which one is better to use as your first light for a soft box. Amaran cob 60, godox sl60, colbor cl60 or consider something more powerful?
Any of them will do just fine as they have nearly identical color accuracy and brightness. The most important thing to think about is whether you'll buy other/more powerful lights in the future. If so, look ahead and see what brand has more products you think you'll buy, because having all your lights within 1 ecosystem is very nice.
Quick question! Thinking of buying one of these lights sometime soon. Is the cl60r not as bright as the cl60? I’m willing to cough up the extra cash required to get the rgb version, but if i get a light that’s not very bright i will likely just go with the bicolor version Thanks!
Yes, you can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Colbor+CL60&light2=Colbor+CL60R So it's 2100 lux Vs. 2560 lux, but keep in mind, that's less than 1/3 of a stop in camera terms, so not even enough that you would have to adjust your camera settings.
Very comparable. The Forza lights are not metal, although they are high quality plastic. These lights have a better SSI by a couple points, but slightly more tint on the daylight end than the Forza lights, so I'd say that's a wash. Brightness/color accuracy they are tied, among many other bi-color COB lights. Build quality I'd give the slight edge to the Colbor lights. They also have the NATO rail design, and the mesh control so you can control multiple lights from the back of just one. And they are $100+ cheaper than the Forza lights, which is huge, especially if you need to get more than one!
It's definitely less, simply because the Amaran 150c has more power behind it. The Amaran lights are a bit more refined, but nothing that would be a deal breaker. And, obviously these lights have a lot of other stuff going for them. In color mode though, the different in brightness is very little, so unless you need to blast a big area with a ton of color, it shouldn't matter. As an accent light, these would work just fine.
@@NewLayer Great review man! Compared to the 300c (and 150c) how many 60r would equal the same color output? The RGB specs listed online seem very high for the 60r (or very low for the 150c and 300c).
The buttions always fail. I have owned several. Avoid for pro work. Damn shame becasue the design is brilliant and the build on the buttons is guaranteed to fail.
