Excellent work on one of my all time favorite sport air rifles. A high quality tune kit installation with proper lubrication and the 34 is a smooth, accurate and potent hunter/fun gun. Another fine addition to your collection. Have a great weekend Kevin.
The Mod. 34 is extremely easy to tune well ! 😉👍 Most Diana break barrels of this standard production format are. 🤷🏼♂️ They Always Work, and results are quite predictable. 🙂
@@marcmyers1465 Agreed with 1 caveat. Because the cocking lever isn't articulated, it can result in piston galling in some rifles. Piston buttoning will cure the issue in those examples.
@@thelvadam8916 True, I always hone the cylinder, button, and sleeve the piston, and glide the cocking arm. No metal to metal contact. I'll even dampen the cocking arm with Sorbothane. 😉👍 An inexpensive 2nd. hand rifle leaves a whole lot of wiggle room for Tuning, and Upgrades ! 😃 Even articulated cocking linkages have their own challenges. IE: Clicks & cocking slot galling. 🤷🏼♂️
Hi Kevin, Thank you for your knowledge, enthusiasm and direction. I like to do my own jobs where possible. Its nice to know we are not totally at the mercy of other people. With respect to the professionals, sometimes its better if we can do our own mends/fixes as with our own property and passion we normally have more time to spend and love to give, rather than be under pressure to produce and time scales to adhere to. There's also the satisfaction in producing your own fixes, which is great too. I only recently found out we could do any kind of blueing at home. I thought we were at the mercy of the gunsmiths, what with the use of the chemicals, etc. Its was a great instructional video and great commentary and advice too, Kevin. Best wishes and thank you again. Take care, my friend.
For small parts and Buggered screws and the like you can put a dilute mixture of Selenical acid in a small bottle and soak them for 15 to 30 min. (After they've been touched up of course, and rinsed with 91% isopropyl) Take em out blot them and oil them and Y'er Good ! 😉👍 Handy for peckered breach screws, triggers, trigger guards, sights, etc ... "Seriously" rusted screws can be soaked in a 4 to 1 mix of Water & Molasses for a few weeks prior. You'd be shocked how the rust falls away and the black finish you're left to work with ! 😮 Fine old, Vintage parts are hard to come by ! 🤷🏼♂️
Nice work there! That was the first time I heard to go less on every preceding coat after the first. Appreciate the tip! I always appreciate your content and your enthusiasm for air rifles as well! Keep up the good work!
Great useful video, thank you for sharing, I have an old BSA that I’m going to try and re-do the bluing on now, always enjoy your videos, have a great evening, cheers, Dan.
Thanks Dan. Rebluing an entire gun with this method will yield decent results but it won't compare to a professional, hot salts bluing job. Good luck my friend and thanks for watching.
I've never one this cold bluing process before, mainly because I didn't know how to do it correctly, now that I've taught, I think I'll give this a try. T'anks Teach! :)
Thank you very much Kevin. This video will come in very handy for me. I will definitely refer back to it when refinishing my rifles. Stay Safe. Be Well. GOD BLESS.
Some really good advice there Kevin. Any future cold bluing I may have to do will be better for this video. I have been told that pre-warming the steel with a heat gun or hair dryer before applying the blue will enhance the finish. Thanks for the video.
Two years ago I restored an old 1975 Weihrauch HW50 including the stock. It looks just beautiful, I used Bisley brand oxidizer to blue all the metal, but the blue is disappearing in some places in the barrel and in the compression tube. I'm thinking of sending it to a gunsmith to have it professionally blued.
Hi Carlos. No cold blue on earth can rival the durability and longevity of a professional, hot salts bluing job. A professional rebluing is always preferable but not always affordable. Thanks as always my friend.
Looks good right now. The manufacturer actually recommends a warm water rinse of the area after each application. Then, a final dry and oil application.
Thanks Rodney. I've used the rinse method in the past. I prefer the results without the rinse and haven't had any issues over time. Thanks so much for watching my friend.
Great minds think alike , I was just going to comment on using the wire wheel on a dremel when you pulled it out Kevin, i've had good results with the usa made cold blue by tetra gun, I find they all work better if you warm the parts first to about almost too hot too hold.
@@razor1962 Any time pal, I still think it was kinda dumb for diana to finish the top of the breech like that, it's a moisture trap for sure & I bet a lot of them end up rusty there. Sounds like you've tuned that one by the shot sound & also pretty pokey by how quick the shot rang the bell!
@@junglie They did that for various specialty sights so the length could be adjusted . 😉 Mostly on older rifles. Diana did offer many different sight sets in the past.
i did some complete guns a d 16 and 35 with a product from ballistol Schnell brunierung und kalt entfetter ,fast bluing and cold degreasser in englisch,one layer enough
@@razor1962 this aere 2 people how i inspet vab a airgun!!!!No landingbaan in flo and a stupif orange red for korrel oldschool sorry wheb people hurt how like like thuis!!!! i dont meen it for me a gun like slavia
Hello Im think of buying a hw 77 but dont know what is better 77k or 77 long vs shorter barrel what is better and why my english is not thr best.. Greetings from the Netherlands
That's a matter of personal preference. Either configuration should be awesome. I own a 97K and it's a good length. It shoots better than I do. Thanks for watching my friend.
"If" you can find one, the HW77 Long barrel in the Original 25mm format had Superior Accuracy and pretty much invented the sport of Field Target all by itself ! 😉👍 They are getting increasingly harder to find these days, but do show up from time to time. 😌 I tend to buy them on sight, rat hole them, and build the living snot out'a them !!! 😃👍 FWIW: I found my last one right over there in the Netherlands. 😉
Oxpho Blue cream rubbed in with a bit of 0000 steel wool is Very Nice !!! 😃👍 I've redone a few Olde Match rifles this way, and the results were Very Close to Master Bluing. 🤯
Yeah, probably so David. The rust didn't extend underneath the sight but I managed to hit the sight base while using the wire wheel. Left a little mark. Could've been avoided had I removed it. Thanks for watching my friend.
i thinking a verry time een red appel with bsuiker on for schoothing of his heis wit myn slavia, evrei t!mbi sayitb i smelthingn somting rond hin and its nots frei smelthing !!!!!! greethings nibs,with all myn love koenraad
While cold blue can never match a professional, hot salts bluing job, it will last for many years if well cared for. A good protective oil will wipe away finger prints and airborne moisture which can lead to fading and surface rust.
Try using the Oxpho Blue Cream, and rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool next time. You can do repeated treatments until you arrive at the depth of finish you're looking for... 😉👍 Always wipe it down with oil after each treatment to fix the finish, even if you have to wipe it down with 91% Isopropyl before the next application. The oil is to fix the finish. 😉 This has worked for me for over Two Decades now. 🤷🏼♂️ There's a difference between touch up repairs and Re-Bluing. Nobody wants to mix up a fresh tank of hot salts for a repair. 😧 Even the Touch-up Bluing pens work well if you lightly buff them out with 0000 and do multiple applications till you get it where you want. Always work as small as possible for touch-ups and buff it to blend it in. Pens are handy for nicks and scratches. 🙂 Ultimately success Almost Always comes down to your prep work "Prior" to application...🤷🏼♂️
