It’s beautiful now. A true object of beauty. I have two of these from the 72 and they’ve gone with me on every camping trip I’ve ever gone on. Since I was a child! Haha because they were my dads. I’m 52 now. Nothing I can think of has lasted that long. Two weeks ago I had an issue with the check valve in one and I used penetrating oil to free it up while it was still installed in the lantern. I had tried carb choke cleaner, letting it set over night but that didn’t work. But the penetrating oil freed it up within a few minutes. I thought I’d tell ya about using it incase you hadn’t tried it before. I don’t have the valve removal tool so I couldn’t remove it. Anywhoo the oil thing worked out great. Dude this was a really good video thank you for sharing your work.
Man oh man I've been looking for these exact answers as to why I hear air but no lite?? I've done a pile of work to my 236's and 237 and can't quite get em goin. I'm confident I can get em burning now. Thanks for doing this with such detail. Keep em comin! Cheers from Calgary!
I am working over my 413G stove and have found the fuel valve to be tight and difficult to turn. I haven't found any videos looking specifically at fuel valve repair. Stoves and lanterns are generally the same in construction and operation. I've been suspecting a problem with the granite packing. Your video was so thorough I am understanding how it works and what needs to be done. Thank You so much.
Others have shown that a good way to get the old packing out from the valve stem nut is to 'slice' through it with a screwdriver. You don't really have to worry much about damaging the threads which are undrlerneath the packing, since they aren't actually used. Just be careful of the threads above the packing. Good luck
Awesome work now I'll wait for ya to show us how you use the graphite ribbon for valve packing I'm new to this and like you its not convenient for me to order everything I need
Hey King, I enjoy these no nonsense restoration tips. You mentioned using graphite string for rebuilding graphite packing. Could I request that you post a video on this subject. I'm a Canadian and I don't enjoy paying shipping fees from OTC, would love to know how I can do it with parts from the hardware store. Thanks
I was wondering if there is a graphite packing sleeve in the eccentric tip cleaning handle area, and if there is would it be damaged if it was not removed prior to boiling in your citric acid solution? Also I look forward to a graphite rope repack video. Thanks for your informative and professional videos.
Yes, there is. They don't seem to be as susceptible to damage as the main valve packing, probably because they're less exposed. That said, the cleaning needle actuator lever isn't easily removable on most models. If you remove it, you'll damage the packing. The lever is best left in place unless you're needing to replace the whole assembly. When it comes to a valve with graphite packing still installed, keep the boiling and water/acid exposure to a minimum. I've got into the habit of pouring a bit of my boiling citric acid solution into a coffee cup, dropping the valve in (with the valve stem and valve stem packing removed), and letting it sit for 15-20 minutes. That gets the trick done without being too aggressive. Unless you're able to slip the packing off or will be replacing the packing, keep the valve stem way from the water/acid.
Your informative videos are a big help to me keep them coming! My valve stem is really tight what can I do to get it to turn easier? My 220E works excellent other than the stem being so hard turn.
The graphite packing is getting sticky or the valve stem nut is too tight. You can try backing off the valve stem nut a very little bit. That may help. If it doesn't, keep backing it off until it does. Check for a leak when it's running and if it leaks, tighten the nut back up until the leak stops. If the packing is going bad, a simple fix you can try is to remove the nut and put some graphite lubricating powder between the packing and the valve stem. That sometimes helps, although it'll probably be temporary. If the packing is old and you can't live with the valve being stiff (or if it leaks), you'll need to replace the graphite packing. You can buy new ones from Old Coleman Parts or you can use graphite rope from a plumbing supplier and wrap it yourself.
@@king.coleman Thank you I was thinking of opening it up to check graphite packing just wanted some advise from someone with experience cause it does work flawless but you know the old saying if it's not broke don't fix it hahaha will do what you suggested once again keep up the good videos!
Hi there, very nice and instructive video... I happen to have an old 236 with a bent generator, any suggestions where to get a spare or new generator? seems pretty difficult to source...
How badly is it bent? It's pretty common for 236 generators to have a bit of a bend to them from the heat. If that's all it is, it's not a problem. The brass is pretty soft and you can gently straighten it if you want. If it's worse than that, Old Coleman Parts should have new ones.
It depends on the fount. Sometimes simple metal polish like Mother's gets it done and other times it takes work to remove corrosion and a buffing wheel to shine the plating. Look for my video "How to polish a nickel fount".
Picture of a very great video I found it very helpful would you kindly tell me where you find the graphite packing rope and I take it you just eyeball the right amount cut it and put it in I guess knowing the size of the rope I should buy would be helpful to do you know that thank you
I buy graphite packing rope at a local plumbing supplier. You should be able to find it anywhere plumbing supplies are sold. You want the twisted graphite packing, not the graphite impregnated string that is sometimes sold for faucet repair. How many times you wrap it around will vary depending on the size of the valve, but somewhere between four and six should do it. You want enough on there that it's difficult to get the valve stem nut threaded back on. This is the product I use: www.masterplumber.ca/product/graphite-packing/
Thanks for your videos. My 242B (64) is running great with your help!. However, I have a 286B that is causing some problems. I received it a couple of years ago as a present, and, of course, never fired it up properly. Now it starts, runs for a few minutes, then starts to fade. If I give the fount a shake, The mantle brightens for a while then fades again. I have taken everything apart, cleaned with carb cleaner, and put back together. Still the same result. It seems to not be getting enough fuel internally as there are no external leaks. Any ideas where to look? since this lantern was almost new there wasn't much to clean. Hello from down the island...I am in Duncan!
It sounds like the orifice at the bottom of the fuel pickup may be clogged. When you shake it, you're sloshing fuel into the pick-up through the air hole at the top. I'd pull the valve and inspect the pick-up and poke a generator cleaning needle through the orifice to make sure it's clear. This video may be helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7TqGkf5eURc.html
Hello thanks for great videos ..but would like to ask you .if u could give me any advice on the 530 stove. I need a new Chuck valve and a couple other things.. and do you know if any other camp stove or Lantern Chuck valves fit my 530 stove I would appreciate the help
After you have done a complete restoration and clean up, how long will the lantern stay illuminated before you need to pump the unit up to pressure and brightness again. I always remember having to pump up these units, but I never knew the correct operational time period....5 minutes, 10 minutes?
It depends on the model. Some of the models with small founts, like a 222, can require repressurisation after 30-40 minutes. Normally, something like a 200 or a 220 should go all evening without needing added pressure. I took a 327 on a recent camping trip, pumped it up the first night, and it ran on that pressure for three evenings in a row. If you're needing to add pressure after five or ten minutes, you've got a bad leak.
That vintage mantle does look awfully bright! You could probably use a peerless 111 mantle or even a 24-A as a tester. They aren't terribly expensive and work quite well. I just put a 24-A mantle in my model 200a lantern the other day and my is it bright! It's a bit large for that lantern but the oldcolemanparts website said they work well in the 200a lantern so I guess I trusted Mike's judgment. the 24a is also rated for 500 candlepower so it should be an OK mantle to use on this lantern here even if it's a touch small. It sure is a lot larger than the Coleman #21 mantle that's meant to be used on the 200a lantern. Before burning it off, I wasn't sure it would fit at all.
@@king.coleman the only ones I've ever found locally were #21 as well. Sucks that Canadian folk get stuck with extra shipping costs. Since you're a big collector, it might be beneficial to purchase a whole bunch in one go in order to save on costs associated with shipping. Then you'd be all set for a long time. Just a thought.
@@Krankie_V When the border isn't closed, as it has been for the past year, I travel south once or twice year. Since I usually drive through Kalama on my way, I stop and pick up an order of everything I need from Old Coleman Parts.
I have Coleman 220J and when I loosen the pump to pressurize the pump is very difficult to push in. My thumb is covering the hole. Is this because there is a dirty check valve? I cannot find a video covering this problem. I only find videos about the check valve letting air out.
If it's merely difficult to push the pump down, it may be that you need to clean and lubricate the pump cup and pump tube. If it's clean and lubricated and you can't push it down at all, that would most likely indicate that the check valve is stuck closed. You may find my video on check valves helpful and pumps helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RcYPxPHOyFA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kCObXY4poIU.html
king got a question for ya.I am looking to converting coleman 200 to kerosene, I wonder if this work if i use the original 200 generator replace the gas tip to GT-24 kerosene tip by itself.let me know what you think .thx king
No. I'm not familiar with a "GT-24", but regardless, you'll need to do more than replace the tip. A 200 generator *might* work, but at the very least you'd need to remove the cardboard tube and replace it with a spring or wire wrap. The right way to convert a 200 to kerosene is to use a 201 generator.
I've been working to get a 1970 335 going and I'm pretty sure it has fuel issues. Long story short it just ROARS when lit and pulses non-stop. When I say it roars I mean it is incredibly loud. So loud it is hard to have a conversation next to it. The pulses are not quick. More like a slow flare up and then it drops back down about once every second. I've removed and cleaned the fuel tube and it flows freely. I tried a known good generator. I have run a bore scope through the burner frame and no blockages. I've filled the fount with water and pressurised it to see if the spray from the generator is uneven but I get a nice even stream all the time. Everything seems fine. But when I run it next to a 321c (which appears virtually identical except for the valve) it is so loud and keeps flaring/pulsing whereas the 321c runs great. It's at the point where I won'y use it and I am out of ideas.
Is the screen in the burner cap present? Since you've got a working 321 handy, I'd suggest swapping the burner frame assemblies. If it runs well with the 321 burner frame, that'll help narrow down the problem. A missing screen can cause some weird problems as can partial obstructions or leaks in the air tubes and/or mixing chamber.
@@king.coleman You know what? it is missing...well mostly rotted out in any case. That makes a LOT of sense. I like to keep my lanterns as original as possible so I'll make a replacement for this one but I do have a spare 321 burner frame in perfect condition and I will swap it and see what effect it has. Greatly appreciated.
@@Enjoymentboy Good luck. For what it's worth, the 335 and 321 series use the same burner tubes and caps. If the rim of the cap hasn't deteriorated too much, you can usually rework it to retain a new screen.
@@king.coleman I put my 321, 325 and 335 beside each other and compared manuals and yes, they all use the same burner frame and screen. I swapped in my spare frame and lo and behold the roaring stopped (still louder than my 286 which is dead silent) and the pulsing stopped completely. I have some 304 stainless mesh and managed to make a replacement screen which easily popped into the frame and I now have the original frame back into the 335 and it is burning as good as new. I didn't have to do anything to the burner cap as the screen I made was easy to pop in and snug into place in the lip of the rim.. This was quite an interesting look into the evolution of this size and style of lantern.
@@Enjoymentboy Glad you got it fixed. They all use the same burner cap and tube and the burner frames are interchangeable, but if you're worried about keeping things original, there are differences. The main one being that the 321 and 321A frames have tabs on the bottom of the burner frame to keep the pop-out on the collar positioned properly.
I got a new Coleman northStar it worked great for 3 or 4 times but the next morning there was a big spot under it , _ it's leaking , can you please tell me how could I fix it ( Whit this Corona thing sending it back who knows when they can fix it, thank you very much.
Sorry, Joe, but you haven't given enough information to diagnose the problem. A puddle of fuel could be the result of anything from not closing the valve completely to a compromised fount.
When I go to pump up my lanturn it will not let me push it back it with my thumb over the hole, so I'm looking for help. Not sure what I might have to replace or what the cause is, any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Most commonly that means the bearing in the check valve is stuck in the closed position or, less commonly, you've got a clog in the "snorkel" on the back side of the check valve. I've got a video on this that should help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RcYPxPHOyFA.html
The fuel valve graphite has more exposure to the solution than the tip cleaner one does. It's also considerably larger. That said, if you over do it you can damage the tip cleaner packing. I've never had one actually fail, but soaking too long can make the actuator more difficult to turn, which would indicate a "sticky" packing.
Are you talking about the graphite packing for the valve stem? You can purchase new ones from Old Coleman Parts or you can use graphite rope available from a plumbing supplier and wrap it yourself.
At <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="1250">20:50</a> you start talking about the fuel tubes that cannot be gripped with a wrench because they are round. I have one of those on a 1974 335 that I cannot get apart. My instinct is to soak it in carb cleaner or laquor thinner before trying again. Is there anything in there that can be harmed with these cleaners other than the graphite packing? I got the fuel valve out but the packing is very sticky and stuck inside the nut. Also is there a graphite packing on the nut on the other side of the valve body where the cleaning lever is? I cannot seem to get that to come apart. Like I said this thing has sat for a very long time. It looks like it was barely used but left with fuel in it for 50 years to slowly evaporate over time. Thanks
If you've got a round f/a tube you'll just have to grip it with pliers to remove it from the valve body. I've never encountered one so stuck that I couldn't get it to unscrew. Solvent won't damage anything, but I think a little heat from a torch is more likely to work. There are two graphite packings, one on the valve stem and one in the tip cleaner assembly. You can replace the one on the valve stem, but the whole tip cleaner assembly is meant to be replaced as a unit. As long as the packing in the tip cleaner assembly isn't leaking I'd leave it. If it's stuck or sticky, try loosening and the packing nut, turning the actuator, then tightening it again. Heating it with a torch can help too.
@@king.coleman Have you used heat to remove the fuel/air tube? I'm worried it might ruin that spring in there. Overheating a spring is never a good thing
@@jimdent351 I have not. It shouldn't take that much heat. In fact, I only recommended that because you said you can't get it off, but I've never found one that wouldn't unscrew and I've found some very, very nasty ones. I suspect you're just not gripping or turning hard enough.
Yes you can. I've used it many times and it works well. Some claim that it doesn't last very long, but I've not found that to be the case in any of the lanterns I've repacked. This is what I use: www.masterplumber.ca/product/graphite-packing/
@@artbentley8594 It's going to depend on the lantern model. My rule of thumb is enough times that it's a bit of a struggle to get the valve stem nut back on. I usually put press down on the nut with an adjustable wrench while turning it with another.
Did you watch the video? By nothing do you mean literally nothing, or just no fuel? Literally nothing would be odd. You should at least have air passing from the fount through the valve. If it's passing air, but no fuel, give the fount a slosh. If it starts passing fuel, that indicates your pick-up is clogged or the that the spring on the air wire needs to be stretched. All this is in the video.
Hello,my coleman 237 kerosene is flooding at tip,then kerosene goes thru burner dripping before I turn on. The gen tip is tight and generator itself is tight, what could be my problem? My generator is a new generator also appreciate any help.
@@king.coleman Thank you for all your knowledge and videos someone else also suggested the same I was not pre heating enough and it would become a sooty fireball. I tried it again letting go for 4mins and turned valve on and presto,she lit up beautifully!its a 67 so it's special to me again thank you for answering my question and your time.
@@outdoorseyfun9842 The rule of thumb is to fill the preheat cup to near the top and wait until the alcohol is almost gone before opening the valve. Unless you're in seriously sub-zero temperatures you shouldn't have any problems that way.
It may. No guarantees, as it will depend what's causing the clog. The most common place for a f/a tube to clog is at the intake orifice. If the orifice is clogged the best way to clean it out is with a wire.
@@outdoorseyfun9842 Yup. If your 222 has an airwire in the f/a tube, it'll be the perfect diameter for that. Poke the orifice, make sure it's clear, and roll the wire around in it just in case there's any build-up around the edges. Soaking in citric acid or vinegar can help remove and residue or varnish that might be on the edges.
@@king.coleman i give up I don't know what's wrong with it.can I just mail it to you if you would be willing to repair it ill pay shipping both ways and repair ?
@@outdoorseyfun9842 There are a few reasons I don't want to get into mail-in repairs. International shipping is a hassle (assuming you're outside Canada), but mostly it's just that I don't have easy or quick access to parts.
Hi king coleman, I have a 1955 236 model, am looking for a valve stem. but seem hard to find them, can you please help me what will be a cross reference for the same parts ? thx
@@burongmurai If a 220 valve stem doesn't work it's very likely that the 236 stem is unique. A 237 stem is probably identical, but they're even harder to find.
