Great video! I wish that I could saw as quickly as you do. It would save me a lot of time, especially when I'm hungry and I can smell my wife's cooking from the kitchen.
We all know bonsai is the art of patients... but there are really too many unnecessarily long and boring videos out there on the subject. I am so happy to find a channel with someone who has the knowledge, and teaches it in a way that is both engaging and informative. You spare us the unrelated rambling and fumbling around with tools and stay on point. Also I really appreciate seeing the same tree’s growth and development weeks or months later, shown in the same video even! You already know that’s what we want to see. Thank you for creating your cool little trees and sharing this quality content with us! Cheers to you buddy!
I'm so happy they've been helpful for you. I hope your trees do well and thrive. Digging in summertime can be risky (spring is your best chance), but I've also collected in these months with success. I wish you lots of luck, and feel free to comment with questions, or send a message through Facebook!
Like your videos very much. Keep up the good and arduous work required to give a scruffy, barely surviving tree a new and healthy life. Wish our neighbors here in SoCal were as accommodating and generous as in your area. Jim Doyel.
I know Cali is much more restrictive when it comes to collecting, but it's usually for good reasons. Some of those reasons I'll be discussing in the ethics video. If the option is there, apply for permits at your local state or federal forestry department. This should allow you to collect on forestry lands. There will probably be a limits on the number of trees, and there could be restrictions on what species you can collect. It's worth checking out.
The cut marks are also better for you to give cambium ointment, so that it doesn't rot, doesn't dry out, isn't attacked by insects, and the cambium closes faster too
More coming! Videos in post-process. Not as many trees as last year - poor weather. And probably fewer collection videos, as SOMEBODY forgot to clear the memory cards before shooting more footage and didn't capture everything. We won't name who. Other videos on other bonsai subjects also to come!
Appalachian Bonsai if you would like to, I made a video on the transplanting from the ground to the first pot. It's in my climate controlled microgreen room and doing great. You can view the video on my channel.
I always wanted to grow a bonsai and always failed, but this video gave me a new perspective. i decided go out this weekend and search for a tree that fit for a bonsai. Thanks 1000 time.
Turning a tree into a bonsai isn't hard to do. It slows the growing habit down, but bonsai is controlling the root system and trimming the foliage. Very simple
Michael Willcutt can you just prune the tree and not touching the roots or cutting it? I'm scared of cutting the roots cause it would fail my bonsai tree and could die.. I'm planning to make a bonsai out of a mango tree hopefully, it just sprouted
@@AppalachianBonsai, Thanks. I was thinking maybe it was healthier for the tree since it will be smaller and have less too support that way. Good to know because I want to make a real spooky looking one, like from a graveyard or old abandoned house from a hundred years ago :)
At 2:50, that trunk with the slight S shape that he said with the slight damage shld stay. You can make that as a driftwood in it just removing the bark... But it was a good video! Narration is clear too.
That’s the best bonsai collecting I have ever seen. I tried to grow root on a branch with no luck. I’m planning to dig a hibiscus and make it a bonsai.Thanks.
Certainly! It'll take some thought on how to present it well the a good vid, but I'll do it! I'm not strict to traditional methods (which are documented out there). I use them as more guidelines than anything. They do need to have a sense of balance that compliments the tree - that's all. My pots have come from all over the place. Bonsai shows/expos where people sell them, club auctions, gifts, online, bonsai nurseries. My favorite are made by my local potter friends - so they're custom and special! As far as pre-bonsai, use anything that allows the tree to grow the way you want. I have pots made of scrap lumber, cut-down nursery cans, Rubbermaid tubs, and broken bonsai pots. As long as the pot holds the tree and allows water to drain, I don't care what it looks like. Pre-bonsai are not ready to display to public... and that's the truth with this hobby. If you're not a professional who needs to sell trees to the public or win awards and recognition, then plant it in what makes you happy!
Thank you for the great video. I read all the comments and replies which give answers to most of my questions about bonsai.I love bonsai, but no success yet.I need to do this for me , so try to find the simplest way for bonsai.Can I use only lava rock as soil? or lava rock and sand? And what kind of fertilizers should I use and how often? I am going to try this for a big trunk of azalea. About how many inches should keep for the tap root? Please help me to success .
The soil mixture really depends on your climate and how much you want to water. Coarse soil mixes, like a lava mixture, drain very well, which is best for bonsai, but they also require more watering. I wouldn't recommend sand as it has a small size. Small size particles leave smaller spaces, which allows the surface tension of water to fill the spaces much easier (it means it holds too much water). Azaleas like it a little more damp, but they also like more organic based soil mixtures. Use pine bark or coconut coir, maybe even a little compost. They'll appreciate it. I would cut the tap root completely if there are enough side roots to sustain the tree. The tap root will prevent the tree from going into a future bonsai pot. For fertilizer, wait until the tree is growing. If you use it before it starts new growth, you're wasting fertilizer and may be damaging roots. Once growing starts, I fertilize once every two weeks or so. Use an even balanced fertilizer of (equal numbers of N-P-K), and also has some essential elements. I use what's cheapest, because I have lots of trees. If your soil drains really well, you can use full strength according to instructions without too much worry. If you're really concerned, use half the recommended dose. A little fertilizer is better than none or too much. Another tip on azaleas - they don't like alkaline water. Something neutral or slightly acidic would be better. Funny enough, I've seen people make pots out of concrete, which is highly alkaline. I'd avoid them for an azalea.
Thank you so much for the long , quick reply with detail answers to all my questions. So I am going to use coco peat and lava rock (because it has trace minarals too) for my azalea root.I hope GA weather is not bad for bonsai.I am going to use a plastic container.Thanks again and wish me luck.
Great information. I've found broken off younger trees and figured they'd make good bonsai but didn't know how to go about it. Now I know what to do. Cheers
Great to the point instrutions. Except you filled with "soil" but it was clearly a special mix. Would you tell us what that mix is please? I can't wait to start one like this! Thanks
I am asked quite a bit, so I should probably say more than what is in the description. This dogwood was collected in April 2016. I prefer to collect earlier than that, but 2016 was a busy spring.
Hi. Congratulations. Generally bonsai masters recommend that the root soil is not seperated from the yamadori. How do you manage to live by seperating the tree's own soil ? What kind of soil and care do you apply ?
Leaving the soil on is very important for conifers, like Pine and Juniper, and it is especially important for tight root balls that are found with trees in rock crevices. The tight root balls have limited growth conditions, and if you remove all the old soil to early, you risk having the tree grow too vigorously. That can create coarse growth instead of fine growth. These field-grown deciduous trees respond just fine without the original soil, and I want them to grow strong right now. Once the general shape is created, then I'll start to limit my root pruning and soil removals.
My bonsai is dying!!! The little spiky leaves are crisp to the touch and are a paler green, will they ever be soft to the touch again or is it just flat out dying ? I found out that you should fertilize with high phosphorus, would this help ? Should I just cut off all the "dying" branches ? I was told to water it often and then i looked it up and found out that doing so will lead to root rot..
little juniper cuttings are often sold as bonsai, then quickly shrivel and die. I am very sorry. By the time they get to the crispy stage, it's too late.
I though you were on your way to kill the plant.😬 Once you didn't i will make exactly what you did with a long olive tree I have here at home and wish to turn it into a bonsai. Just one question:do I need to wait for the spring? The tree is in a pot in the living room and I use one special lamp to plants to keep it alive during the winter.
On a more serious note... where are you getting your mica pots? The place I used to get them stopped carrying them a number of year ago, and said they could not get them any more. I havn't looked in awhile, maybe things have changed?
I actually get mine from various sources. Members of my bonsai club bring them to auction every year, so I mostly get them there on the cheap. I have also purchased them from bonsai nurseries and expo vendors, though I pay full price at that time.
Thanks, Bonsai Guys! Two more collection videos to come this year, plus some others. I'm finished with a nursery tour vid that will come out tomorrow if my computer can process it in time - having some issues.
I love our native trees. Nothing wrong with other common species like the Japanese & Chinese varieties, but nothing wrong with our backyard flora, either. Thank you for the comment!
Absolutely. I'll never take for granted that the Smoky Mountains are in my backyard. We have great plant species diversity. I'm aspiring to make and grow some bonsai trees of my own. thanks a bunch for showing ways to do so with our native species.
Hi I'm very new to horticulture and was wondering how this tree survived (and flourishes) even though you cut off all of the leaves and left only the trunk and roots? How can it photosynthesize and grow? From my memory of high school biology, all photosynthesis occurs in the leaves.
Great Comment! It is true that this process puts a great amount of stress on the tree, especially because I eliminate the leaf buds and most of the roots. This is only really possible with deciduous trees; most conifers would die. Leaves do all the photosynthesis and provide energy to the roots, just as you said. Conversely, the roots do all the storage and provide nutrition to the leaves. It's an awesome cycle, and they require each other to survive. Understanding this in depth will provide the basis of this collection procedure, propagation techniques such as cuttings and air-layers, and more. In the early to mid-spring, the leaves haven't been produced yet - they're still in a dormant bud stage left over from winter, which means they're not doing anything for the tree at that time. The roots will provide the stored energy back up the trunk to push those buds to open. This collection process gets rid of those buds, and the energy stored in the roots gets rerouted to produce new buds instead. These latent buds (sometimes called adventitious buds) push through old bark and produce new leaves, and it is unique to deciduous trees. There are a few conifers that are able to do this, such as pitch pine & Japanese black pine, maybe larch. That is why it is important to do this in the early spring when the leaves haven't opened yet, and to leave as many fine feeder roots when you're trimming. It's a balancing act. If the leaves are present, there's a good chance too much energy has already been spent. And if you cut off too many roots, there's a good chance you won't have enough energy to push new leaf buds. In the study of bonsai, you'll see comments about trimming the top and bottom of the tree evenly, and this is part of the dance. As said before, the tree is put into a great deal of stress, which is why extra care must be taken during this first year. Pests and disease can overcome a weakened tree quickly, so it helps if an experienced eye sees issues before they arise. That said, even those who have done this for many years still lose the occasional tree. Of the 12 trees I collected this spring, I lost 2, and have had many issues with one more. I still learn from every one of them, so that I may understand and know for future collections. Thank you for the comment, and good luck with your future studies into the amazing realm of living plants!
Thank you for this incredibly informative reply! I really appreciate you taking the time to provide such a thorough, insightful and inspiring response. It is early spring here in Australia and there are plenty of trees in the bush and scrubland to practise with, that would otherwise be cleared as housing estates expand. I will give your advice a try this season and hopefully some of these trees get a new shot at life. Thank you again!
There is also latent energy and hormone in the transfer systems of the tree itself, not just in the roots. This can be seen with cuttings or even girdling a tree. A girdled tree will still put out leaves above the girdle for a season or two after it is girdled. They'll even repair themselves and cling to life if the girdle isn't 100% effective.
This might be a stupid question, but why use a chopstick for moving around dirt? I see this in many bonsai videos. Wouldn't a pointy stick or pencil be better? Maybe a thin piece of bamboo? Presumably chopsticks you want to eventually put in your mouth.
Never a dumb question. Some of it is carried over from the bonsai culture of Japan and China, but whatever is used to break up soil and tough root balls should be very strong. Bamboo definitely has that strength throughout its entire length, so it's a near-perfect material. Yes, there are some great pointy sticks of sharpened bamboo out there, and they can be purchased online if you don't have bamboo growing nearby to make your own. However, another source of thin sharpened bamboo is chopsticks. I use different ones for my trees than I do my food ;) In 12 years, I've only replaced them once.
I am. It's annealed copper wire. You can produce it yourself with a little work, or buy it online. If you do it yourself, I recommend small 'hobby' wire purchased at a hardware store, then annealing with a torch or in a fire until cherry-red. Aluminum wire works very well, too. I would have preferred aluminum, but didn't have any small gauge to work with at the time of this collection.
I mix it myself. I use Turface MVP, Pine Bark, Diatomaceous earth, and coarse sand. All can be purchased online. Most can probably be found locally. I go into detail in my Tips & Tricks video, which includes the exact product types, where I buy them, and the ratios I use in my mix.
Any young tree. Any old tree. Some species are better than others. What must be kept in mind is time. I've collected these trees for bonsai material, but they are not yet bonsai. It will be another decade or more before they really start to take shape as a miniature tree.Though the name loosely means 'tree in a pot', the art of bonsai is to create the very essence of an old tree. If you take the time to learn, read, study & practice, it can be an extremely rewarding venture. This channel aims to show people like yourselves, how to start, train, & maintain bonsai. It's no magic trick, just patience & work. Stay posted. Though I've only really shown the beginning of collecting wild trees (a.k.a. yamadori) I still have plenty to show about nursery stock, wiring, pruning, fertilizing & more. This is only the beginning. If you continue to study this art, I wish you the very best of luck!
I'm looking forward to the next steps. Please go in depth with your future videos because I know nothing about the art, but I am willing to learn. I wish growth to your channel as to your bonsai.
Hello Sir Please Tell Me What is Soil name. this is Only Small Size Stone or other stuff. Because I will try last 2 years for making a bonsai. basically, i am from India so please tell me how to make perfect soil for bonsai.
It's hard to say what the perfect soil for you is going to be. Most modern bonsai soils are well-draining, so coarse. I use 70% inorganic/stone and 30% organic/pine bark. You can use brick chips or terra cotta shards for the inorganic, which are commonly used in India. Try loose compost for organic. Vinny Chirayil has a good bonsai channel in India, and he might have some closer soil suggestions.
It's a coarse mix of Surface (fired clay) & diatomaceous earth (same stuff in Oil-Dri & kitty litter - I use NAPA #8822). Sometimes I sift pine bark, but it's only for moisture & nutrient retention.
My advice, it is better after digging from the ground not to completely remove the soil, leave it in the roots 30-40% of the original soil of its natural habitat, so as not to stress the stems too much. That is what we apply to the art of bonsai in our country, after new roots grow, the planting medium can be replaced so that it is fertile. branch stage will be faster in bonsai art just advice from me greetings bonsai from Indonesia😁😁👍👍
Is there a part 2. it would be cool if you did a series on a tree like that one you collected on what to do with it overtime so someone can follow along
Check out the update videos! I'm definitely overdue on a specific video just for this tree, but those updates show several iterations of this one and others. Thanks for watching and taking an interest!
Most of the plastic pots have come from my local bonsai club. We have an annual auction where users donate stuff from there old collections, and some of us get to reap the benefits of it. I've also bought them at bonsai expos, though they're more expensive that way. The internet is also not bad, and gets delivered to your door. But, you only need to have these things when you're displaying or really close to training. You can use anything, really, as long as it has holes in it. A styrofoam cooler works well if it meets the requirements!
As Kevin B stated, late winter or early spring. I don't collect before February, and rarely past April. The longer you can allow the tree to recover and grow, the better for overall survival.
Do you have to do this in spring? Its june in MA and i pre cut maples 3 or 4" diameter. Theyre reshooting. Wondering if pot now or wait until next spring. Its june 10
Pre cutting isn't a problem. It's the roots you need to worry about. If you want to collect before the spring, wait until fall, so August through October. Don't cut any of the new shoots that have come up. The reason for collecting at specific times of the year is because of the plant growth cycles. In winter, all the nutrition is stored in the roots then pushed into the trunk during spring. This hydraulic action pushes out the buds & leaves. If caught at the right time (early March for me), then there's enough energy & pressure in the trunk to push out both new leaves & new roots. During late spring, the growth of leaves & branches is most important, and therefore the roots can become weak and won't support the new leaves if cut. Same with summer. Overall growth slows down & new buds for the following year are set. Then fall comes where the sap leaves the top & makes its way to the roots for storage. Once again, hydraulic action is happening and new roots are forced out. It is during this time that you can collect more safely.
@@AppalachianBonsai good to know. ill wait until the fall or even until march or spring next year before digging it up as a safe bet? you think by fall i should dig it up and pot it and dont prune or cut back anything for it to make it through winter? or just wait until next spring? thanks though, i wont cut it anytime soon
@@tomsmith2215 Yes, wait. You would be safer to dig fall or spring. If you collect this fall, leave what leaves remain on. If you collect in the spring, you can leave on or take off. It should be fine
I've a video that has a small explanation, but here's the gist: Most of my soil is inorganic. I use mostly fired/expanded clay/shale (like Turface) and diatomaceous earth (like kitty litter or oil-dri... I use NAPA #8822 here in the States). Some chopped bark (pine or fir). I sift the particles with screens from 1/16" - 3/16" (2mm-6mm). Toss out the rest or crush & sift again. For straight inorganic mixes 50/50 Turface & diatom earth. This mix is excellent for all, but really nice for pines & junipers. For organic mixes: three equal parts, with organic only taking a third. This is good for trees that need more moisture, like azalea.
Wow. Thanks for the detailed fast response ! I always thought DE was only avail in powder form, I'll have to find some. As for Turface, are there no chemical additives just pure expanded shale ? Really great to have RU-vid and learn something new every day.
No chemical additives I know of. The clay is fired until it becomes ceramic. It's basically very porous terra cotta pebbles. Same with the shale, which epands to create very pocketed material. There are various discussions about the positives and negatives of using these products. I've never had any issues, other than adding more water when needed. Bonus: You can't overwater!
im glad to hear you use expanded shale. I also use this. do you fine the surface drys out faster than other stones? Id also like to ask what you think of using sifted mulch and sifted store bought compost as an organic additive? that's what I currently use and it works ok but I think my trees could be happier. dose pine bark work fine for deciduous trees? would pinecone pieces work as an additive? thanx for any comments and suggestions
The roots store nutrition during the winter. As spring approaches, the sap is pushed into the trunk. Eventually it pushes the leaves out (like hydraulics). If you can time it right in the spring, there's enough sap in the trunk to sustain the tree until it can recover.
You're right. In the videos I've made since, I've referred to this process as 'callousing over' or 'quarantining off' - they never heal like animals do.
I've a video that has a small explanation, but here's the gist: Most of my soil is inorganic. I use mostly fired/expanded clay/shale (like Turface) and diatomaceous earth (like kitty litter or oil-dri... I use NAPA #8822 here in the States). Some chopped bark (pine or fir). I sift the particles with screens from 1/16" - 3/16" (2mm-6mm). Toss out the rest or crush & sift again. For straight inorganic mixes 50/50 Turface & diatom earth. This mix is excellent for all, but really nice for pines & junipers. For organic mixes: three equal parts, with organic only taking a third. This is good for trees that need more moisture, like azalea. The only main issue with these mixtures, mainly inorganic, is you must water almost daily. The coarseness of the mix drains water wonderfully, bringing in needed oxygen and moisture, but it also means it dries faster. That's it!
Muy buen video, me sirvio bastante ya que pude aclarar algunas dudas que tenia sobre la tecnica del Yamadori. Saludos desde Paraguay y espero continuen con buen material.
¡Saludos de Estados Unidos! y gracias por el comentario. Espero la ayuda de vídeos, y debería tener más para usted pronto. Si usted tiene alguna pregunta sobre técnicas de recolección, házmelo saber. ¡La mejor de las suertes!
Si tengo alguna duda al respecto te la hare saber hahahaha, muchas gracias. Para ti tambien la mejor de las suertes y como dije previamente estare al pendiente de esta clase de buen material.
i just go into bonsai i have been picking up material from my woods and i am having a bad time on making the material stay alife i use dirt and compose but you use like cat liter i am very confused bicause is no compose for the trees can you help
Shallow pots actually hold lots of moisture in the bottom. Think of a sponge laying on it's side. The top seems dry, but the bottom is still soaking wet. Finer particles from dirt and compost hold even more moisture, which rots roots. The coarse material, like diatomaceous earth (the ingredient in cat litter), allow water to pass through quickly. This ensures the roots don't rot. This is very important for bonsai health, especially freshly collected material. I use coarse pine bark for moisture retention, not for the nutrients. You can grow bonsai in pebbles if that's all you have. The nutrition comes from fertilizer, not from the soil. Hope that's helpful.
