For those that do not know, Vadim Kraichuk passed away on January 11 2022. Appparently his son Daniel, is not going to keep the business going as he was selling off the assets though not the personal equipment of Vadim.
A good way to show why you shouldn't move back and forward: The stone is rotating, the rotation is doing the work. Moving the blade is just positioning, not sharpening. So if you want a more heavy grind on one side, you can just move slower. Like Knifegrinders is showing in video's: Slow and steady passes in one direction. Let the stone do the work.
Hello sir! 1) Is it necessary to use the diamond plates, if I already have the TT-50 truing tool? Whaz would be the benefits? 2) Which steels would you classify as wear-resistent and/or premium? Thank you very much
I recently sharpened my fathers Sami Knife and i noticed that i ground one side of the blade deeper than the other. I tried to go for a full scandi grind but its like the edge went further up on one side. Do you know what causes this? Thanks for the great video, this also explained why i have concaved a few of my latest kinves, spent too much time on middle.
This is because the Tormek knife jig is not self-centering - when the edge apex is not at the center of the clamp, you get one bevel higher than the other. Our solution is explained on our website here: knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_jigs.htm
Hi Vadim , Thank you for the great instructional video. I am having a problem with sharpening a kitchen knife: When I use the method of the magic marker to reproduce the existing bevel, I find that on the one side the stone completely removes the ink = perfect reproduced angle. BUT: when I flip the knife to the other side, to check if it the stone removes the ink there also, it is in a completely different angle I believe, because it's far from removing any ink at all. What am I doing wrong here? Why are there two different angles on both sides? Thank you for the feedback!
According to Tormek, the grading stone can also be used on the Japanese SJ wheel, but we caution against if you like your SJ. Tormek had developed their grading stone for the aluminium oxide SG wheel long before they added the SB and SJ wheels. It can grade finer the black SB wheel, but not to the #1000 as the SG - only to about #600; however it cannot restore the SB wheel to its original coarse grit, and if you keep trying you will glaze your grading stone on the SB wheel to unusable.
Sure, on our website in PDF, and it is cheaper than from Amazon. You can read and save the PDF book on your Windows PC, Mac, iPhone/iPad and Android smartphone/tablet. knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm
No hardcopy at present, sorry. But now that I honestly think that the 5th edition is final, I will let half a year for feedback and will have it printed in Australia then. Though, the overseas transportation costs added to the printing costs will make it less affordable for the overseas readers.
I don't understand 8:59. I thought you wanted the edge leading in most circumstances. Tormek does suggest using the grading stone on the 4000 grit to clean up the swarf.
Would it be acceptable to use diamond paste on the leather honing wheel for everything? So rather than use aluminum oxide for some things and diamond paste for other items, just use diamond paste for everything?
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Everybody's gangsta until their mirror polished knives blind them on a sunny day! It's useless for every knife, excluding display pieces
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I'm confused why diamond paste is the way to go for honing rather than the AO that they suggest. Is it so that the diamond paste "tears" everything out evenly (iron matrix and carbides) rather than just the iron matrix causing "carbide tearout" that the AO paste produces?
@@cosmicsloth246 Diamond paste should be used for high vanadium/cobalt/tungsten steels, not only because aluminium oxide etc common abrasives worsen their edge retention, but also because common abrasives cannot sharpen the edge of carbides, they only draw steel matrix over the carbides into a short-lived edge that dulls quickly.
made a big mistake with my brand new japanese waterstone wheel. i sharpened against the rotation like the other wheels. big mistake. the stone is softer than the others and it literally grabbed the tip of the blade and put a big chip in the edge of the wheel. talk about heart broken. fortunately i was able to dress out the damage with the wheel truing tool. after an hour of truing i was good to go. minus about 10 percent or more of wheel life. hard lesson learned. sharpen with the rotation with the waterstone. saw that in the fine print in this video after the fact
Dear Vadim, I'm a new Tormek user and last night I noticed while sharpening knives with the SVM-40, the stone grinds the jig itself. I had set the jig to sharpen a 15° angle on the knife and when I sharpened one side and turned the svm-45 to the other side, I noticed that the stone had grinded metal from the jig. Now I notice several times while setting the angle, that the jig is resting on the stone. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your response!
You are doing nothing wrong, simply the blade is too narrow. Try clamping higher at the very spine. If still the same, you can thin the clamps of the knife jig on a common grinder to get some clearance over the wheel, as shown on this photo knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Knife_Jig_Thinned.JPG
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Sorry, I still don't get it! The reason for the tape was suppose to prevent scratching the blade? It would now appear that the tape has another function totally? Your explanation is clear and concise. I just haven't used a Tormek. I polish Calcite Optical Prisms.
There is a business selling adhesive pads for the knife jigs, but if used with the Tormek knife jig, they move the apex of the blade off the centre. If the blade apex is off the centre, you will grind bevels of uneven height. We need the blade clamped in the knife jig to be centered in the jig, to have the blade apex in the central plane of the jig. If you put pads on the clamps, the blade apex will go off the centre of the jig. It is so because the Tormek knife jig is not as simple as it looks - it clamps asymmetrically, you can read more about this on our website here: knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment_jigs.htm
The 63*150mm diamond plate will work as well - any plate wider than the wheel will. These plates last, but wear down with time, so I would use the cheapest I can find, and for sure not the DMT :)
Another question: Did you try the diamond plates with the SB-250 silicon carbide stone? Might get a similair result as the SG-250 normal stone... Might be interesting for some :)
There is iron in your words of knife sharpening right and wrong on the Tormek. This is good for all Tormek users to hear . Aj’s knifes carry the same Iron of right and wrong. It’s shall be sharp it shall be right. 🤝
