@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 yes lamination is thin on the laminated blades . sharping the flat edge from undersneath thins it more.. soft iron is ontop and the thin hard steel underneath.. its best to just smoothen the underside on a handstone or fine diamond plate. it dosnt take long .. it is better to bring the bevel from the top side to the burr only
Yes, this is advanced level sharpening. A lot of those weekend warriors need to learn from Vadim, (maybe buy a product or 2 or 5?). I hope he ships to the US. I recently made a few purchases from the UK and the shipping costs were absolutely acceptable, I hope it's the same with KG.
Another great video. How do you clamp the concave back blade in a Tormek jig? Shims? I have been trying, but cannot get the overall blade parallel with the jig axis. Thanks
Thank you very much for your instructional videos, they are the best I have found on how to make full use of the Tormek sharpening systems. I haven't owned a Tormek for several years, & the model I owned was the green Super grind 2000. I mainly used it to sharpen Henckels 5 star kitchen knives of all sizes, from pairing knives to 12' chef's knives, as well as the 5 star cleaver. Although I've probably done at least 100 sharpenings, to be sure, I am a mere amateur. Going only on what little common sense I had, I chose to always sharpen away from the edge, believing that this would remove as little material from the knives as necessary, and thus prolong their life. In watching your videos, I have seen you sharpen both toward & away from the edge of the cutting instrument, and so my question is, how do I know when to sharpen away from the edge, as well as how do I know when to sharpen into the edge?
With the slight curvature of the strop as you push into it, are you not concerned about it rolling the edge over somewhat? My understanding is that that is one of the main reasons for having a superbly flat/true strop. Lovely video regardless!
I recently got the t-8 and haven’t worked much with it yet. But I’m wondering if you ever “curve” with the end of the blade and lift the black part of the jig? Or do you always keep the jig flush with the horizontal attached part all the way through?
I have great respect and admiration for your work Vadim but I disagree with how you sharpened this single bevel. You added a bevel at the backside of the knife. The uraoshi has now been rendered ineffective. Also it appears to have a giant secondary bevel on the kireha which will reduce the cutting ability, make it wedge more. A Kasumi finish is not a seperate bevel, it is a finish designed to distinguish the soft cladding with a Misty finish and the hard cutting steel near the edge with a bright mirror.
I appreciate your highlightening these moments. The more we discuss, the better understanding we get. Overall, sharpening Japanese single-bevel knives on the wheels will never equal in quality with that sharpened by a master on bench stones by classic canons. For us sharpening them on Tormek is a trade-off in volume sharpening, while for individual sharpeners it is an alternative since one does not need to be a Japanese master to sharpen them our way. The polishing SJ stone wheel has grains of 2-3 micron, I can't see how that fine an abrasive can add any bevel to the flat backside of a blade polished on it horizontally, parallel to the top of the Tormek - it polishes only a a narrow strip next to the edge. Single bevel Japanese knives we've sharpened all come with the secondary bevel from the maker - I may be missing your point, but we only reproduce it with due diligence.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158first off, big fan of your work, I enjoyed reading your deburring book and the experiments you have done with edge Stability, hardness, etc. Vadim, Thanks for sharing such wonderful details to all. Now for single bevels, I'm aware there is a secondary but it is a microbevel "koba" rather than a well defined compound bevel with two distinct shionogi lines "shoulder" it's not just a cosmetic thing but it will change how the knife will function and the maintenance of the knife. It is a self thinning design. Sharpening like this will wear out the knife prematurely and it won't function the way it was intended too. I think you are a brilliant person. You'll figure out how to replicate the Geometry on the Tormek I'm sure. Just thought I'd add my 2¢ on the subject. Especially since I've had to repair knives that were sharpened like this so and it was a lot of work. You have great skill with sharpening and you should feel very proud, I look forward to seeing the solution in the future. Cheers -Shawn
Ah I see what you mean. Thank you for clarifying this. Do you think an extra honing step of smoothing away the "shoulder" can help, to a degree at least?
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 yes, I'd blend it, that would be more like a "hamaguri" (clamshell/convex) grind. I'm curious if you could lay the uraoshi down on the side of the wheel where it is flat. It is hollow ground on the back side of the knife, so only the spine and down by the edge touch, that way it doesn't omit the features of the design.
Shame on me! I have the Tormek MB-100 to work on the side of the wheel, but did not think of it. You've started me thinking of an entirely different approach - we can grind bevels on the flat side face of our CBN wheels and eliminate that hollowness in the bevel that comes from the wheel altogether.
hello, i was wondering where you would put the angle finder if you have a bevel on both sides of the knife, because if you put the angle finder on the lower part you will get a different angle than the top portion
When measuring the distance from the edge to the black guard of the jig, why not use the calipers to get the exact distance? why use the ruler with the block of wood?
The knife jig setting block main function is to align the knife edge parallel to the plane of the jig adjustable stop; the 2nd function is to measure the jig projection for use with our software.
I'm a journeyman finish carpenter, I'm definitely no master, but generally you wouldn't want any bevel on the flat side of a chisel. Maybe there's some unique situations where you would want a bevel on both sides but generally no. Just my opinion.
Realy??? Mate any engineer will have a big smile in his face watching this vid. Your software calculates the correct support hight based on various angles you have even measured with a laser? There is one very big mistake in your equation, "the blade radius"! Ups... What can I say?
Hello. Very true Mickey Dee. Why being so accurate measuring distances and diameters when traveling the blade holder // to the stone changes drastically this distance during sharpening operation? The knife holder has to translate AND rotate slowly on the guide for the blade edge to remain as much as possible // to the stone axis of rotation. The ideal should be to rotate the blade on the center of the blade radii center but unfortunately this is impossible.
Hanging strops do impart micro-convexity through burnishing, strengthening the edge, as shown in SEM by Todd Simpson scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2014/08/13/what-does-stropping-do/
Does anyone really think that in Japan the knife-making factories sharpen manually on water stones? The factories sharpen on powered wheels. Typically, a Japanese knife factory has 1-2 sharpeners who sharpen on several machines with stone wheels, and deburr on a buffer.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 no the better quality knives are generally ground on a flat wheel not a round one.. the wheel looks like a giant potter wheel with a hole in it.. this will put a full zero grind on the bevel.. these flat wheels can be cbn or stone.. this is vastly superior to the sharpeni g you performed in the video (you are very precice and work well, the iussue is the use of a round wheel.. which effects the edge geometry) you can buy correct sharpening machines from japan.. makita, ryobi, hatachi ect produce them.. small ones stary at about 100$ aud but a good one with a much larger stone is more.. the bigger the flat area of the stone the longer it lastsand quicker it works.. some machines in factories have a stone 80cm across like a giant flat donut.... you should invest in a smaller machine of this type.. 40 cm or co across.. you can sharpen planer blades..chisels, paper knives ect on them too.. on japanese online marketplaces 2nd had commercial ones can be quite cheap
Ummm...one immediate problem with this tool..unless the cutting edge is flat and the knife rectangular the part of the bevel sharped will be uneven. :) Should be obvious. The best way to sharpen any knife is still using a whetstone..which unfortunately is the most difficult and requires some time to "learn enough to be semi-competent"... Not sure if even a hand-held manual sharpener would be better...like the Minosharp by Global..or a hand sharpener for Miyagi's 9-degree bevel knives by a Miyagi branded sharpener...not sure if that is set to 9-degrees too yet...I'm assuming it would be.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 sure, the human eye may find it difficult to see, however as soon as you try to sharpen on a flat stone, you will definitely see the indent! And a lot of time will need to be spent getting it back to flat. Flat surfaces should be sharpened on a flat stone.
But classic Japanese knives have concave backside, not flat at all. A few quotes for you: "Typically, on Japanese single bevel knives Ura is concave, not flat, and referred as Urasuki. The "urasuki" is the concave surface on the backside of the blade that creates an air pocket when the blade is slicing through food. This helps to reduce drag, so you can make faster, nicer cuts."
Depends. E.g. at meat plants the boning knife must hold shaving edge for boning 10 pig carcasses, so that they can do the working shift load with 1-2 knives - and this is where our methods are used. In a regular restaurant our knives hold shaving edge for 3-4 weeks. knifegrinders.com.au/17ProprietaryEdge.htm
I am amazed by your wonderful technique. However, you probably don't know the structure of Japanese knives. Please study about "Urasuki" and "Uraoshi". With that method, the performance of Japanese knives cannot be fully demonstrated.
Зато когда я говорю "Глядите, на моём ноже русская кровь", мои австралийские друзья понимают, что это я опять порезался, а не прорезал какого-нибудь русского :) И только русские понимают, что "рашн бляд" это может быть совсем не то что те подумали.
Когда я услышал "хорошо" в начале видео, подумал показалось. Но когда увидел имя на книге плюс акцент - всё сложилось :) Приятно смотреть и слушать коллегу с такой глубокой компетенцией. А ещё порадовало понимание того, что вы живёте в Австралии и, вероятно, востребованы там; что всё у вас получилось. Привет из Санкт-Петербурга!
This is not how you sharpen a Japanese knife. You completely changed the grind. I'd be so upset if I sent a single bevel knife in and it came back like this.
I like what you are doing and how meticulous you are. But you should NEVER touch the flat side of a single bevel knife! That defeats the whole purpose, handling of a single bevel knife. When you finish sharpening through all the grits. The bur should be extremely minor and just the lightest stropping will get rid of it.
Это точно. Я думал у меня поставленный английский, пока не выложил своё первое видео на RU-vid. Теперь слушаю себя и удивляюсь, как они вообще понимают что я там говорю.
Oh wow, you are destroying the geometry of that knife! This is not the way to sharpen a single bevel Deba or Yanagiba, Usuba ! You should learn japanese knive's geometry specially these 3 i mentioned and the technique associated in sharpening this type of knives! I mean they are plenty of tutorials from japanese professionals that show how to sharpen them! The concavity (Uraoshi, Urasuki) has a purpose for this knife when cutting, and you are destroying it.
