Came here as a quartz fitter, I can't believe I got every tool I need in the van, and I will be doing compact laminates now too thanks to you. Good man
We had these fitted about 5/6 years ago. They have been very durable, not a single mark on them anywhere. But, they are very thin, and, as we had a large ceramic hob fitted, the ends between the hob and the outside of the worktop can flex quite a bit. ( But, as I already mentioned, no problems 5 years in ) I previously had a black granite worktop in my old house, these are much easier to keep clean and streak free. These were more expensive to have verses what I paid for the granite, but, being early adopters you tend to get stung to have the latest and greatest ☹️
Great video thanks, I'm going to be installing my 3rd set of these and always looking at different methods, Only thing I noticed is when you scribed that worktop for its but joint you scribed it upside down surly if you we're a couple mm out on the back then when the worktop is flipped the imperfection would be on the front, would be minimal but enough to notice 🤔 great video mate .. keep it up
Brilliant series of videos, keep them up! One question did you use a router to create the cut edge of the scribed worktop, or just the track saw and sharp blade?
Hi Dave thanks for taking time to make these videos. They're extremely helpful. A couple of questions from a DIYer, I cannot find a mention of anywhere is worktop support. That looks like 45x45 you have below the worktop as support over the cabinets. I did think it would need something due to being so thin. Did you then rip down decor panels to finish the fronts below the front edge of the worktop above the cabinet doors? My installation instructions also prescribe using a 45 degree chamfer router bit to take the sharp edges off then 180 & 240 and sanding pad to polish edges finished with linseed oil. I'm concerned about discolouration of the white(ish) edge from the oil which looks mahogany coloured in the bottle. Do you have any experience of this or do you just polish and leave? Cheers Gordon 😊
Hi Gordon really happy the videos helped In this case the timber suports are only needed as this kitchen had a handle less design and the timber was to hold a piece of trim above the doors as a place to open the doors Please feel free to email me at info@dc-joinery.co.uk Then i can pass on a contact no where i can answer your questions much better
Great video!! I have a kitchen with an unusual angle corner let's say 110 degree ( not measured the angle yet) would you still scribe and but joint a zenith top on this Dave?
Great video, really helpful! I have a couple of questions. What blade do you use on your plunge saw for the sink/hob cut out and how many passes did you do on each cut? Also did you use a hole saw for the tap hole cut out and if so which brand/type do you recommend? Thank you
Good advice so what would you stick the upstand to the wall with normal silicone? Oh and can I cut the hob and sink our with a router and wood router cutter.
Nice job. Did you fix worktop to cabinets? I was planning to run some silicon beads to hold it firm when I do mine, or is there a better way? cheers pal
Hi Dave. How you fixing top to the base units? I got 3 Appliances next to each other and between only end panel. How you recommend to fix top? Do i need to reinforce in between then top won't be fluffy. In your video you have battens that makes top solid.
This kitchen the buttons where part of the whole kitchen as it wad a handles door system what o would recommend is a thin batton along the wall and use CT1 adhesive the glue the work top down
Hi Mate, great video, can I ask where you got the suction clamps from? doing my first job with compact laminate, the ones ive seen for sale are quite cheap or crazy expensive, cheers.
Hi mate the set in this vid where from ebay they are not bad they do the job if you check the other comments there should be a link for them I have since bought a secound set a better quality set there is a video on here for them with links also any probs let me know
I’ve got a decent off cut of this HPL same as that in this video, I want to use it for a small worktop in my bathroom, could I cut it to a ‘L’ shape using a decent router if I had a jig to run the router around? I know you can cut it straight but I need to cut an internal corner to make the L shape but I’m a bit unsure how to do it? I’ll get the correct blades/cutters to do it. Also how do you polish the edge, what do you use??
Can you please advise how the legs should be fitted if there is an overhang (breakfast bar). My 'Kitchen Fitter' has just put two very small screws directly into the underside of the worktop.
Mine don't work that great on compact laminate that has a texture. You get a better joint with the bolts but it just adds another process to What is already a complete ballache of a job. Solid laminate worktops want banning, especially the 20mm ones which weigh a ton. 👍
@@TheSicosi I think hot melting blocks and clamping would quicker than bolts but I've only ever done hot melting on mirostone. Bolts will definitely get you a nice tight joint. 👍
Anyone else have a problem with the white compacts? I’ve done a few now and there’s always a slight grey line where the join is, it’s not much maybe 0.25 of a mm and it’s always bang on flush but can always see the joint line 😡
A customer wanted one of these fitted due to not being able to afford quartz. I told him the labor cost of fitting would come in line with the quartz. These are one worktop I try to avoid, I lost count of the router bits used.
Hello Dave. Do you know if compact laminate is strong enough to support a drop in bathroom sink on a vanity unit? I have bought an antique sideboard 490mm deep by 1420mm wide and want to take the top off and replace it with compact laminate and drop two 550mm wide sinks in, that sit on the cutouts in the laminate. Haven't bought it yet but sink weighs around 12kg I think. Thank you
Will it be a hole cut out so the worktop goes all the way around the sink If not and the front is cut out maybe put some supports in to the unit to support the work top
How strong is that resin?? Does it hold them together solid?? I’ve done a few of these worktops with the resin and not bothered with bolts as my pal had them suction clamps and he said it’s sound without the bolts?!
For a start you didn’t show you glueing the joint because you done it dry for effect. If you put a decent amount of epoxy resin on the joint, you need to mask up to the joint with something like gaffer tape up to about 5mm from the joint, there’s no way those shitty wipes Wilsonart supply, which half the time are dry anyway, will wipe the excess off without it drying first, you have to have a bottle of alcohol handy. I don’t mean Vodka either
Hi, I’m about to fit some compact laminate worktops for the first time and it’s in the shape of a U so 2 butt-joints of 600mm along the length of the longer pieces however I am not sure how to skim only a section of the long edges to suit the short edge of the joining piece? 😬 Any recommendations please? Thanks
Measure the inside of the sink thats the size of the cut out you need you can use a plunge saw to cut out the hole then use a sander to smooth out the cut you then need a jig to router out the draining grooves. Or you can get an off cut of mdf cut it out the same size of the outside of the sink center it on the work top and use a router with a 20mm guide bush to cut out the hole
The resin glue is not cheap any where its not worth cutting costs with this stuff if wicks recommend there resin i would use it that way you are covered by thete warranty
What to do if The worktop split on joiner/ biscuit and now there is a gap 1mm, all way down the connection? I’ve tried to pull with the hot glue and did work but for some reason it was coming back to that gap position. Any solution???
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 im almost certain that he was using just simple silicone 🤷♂️. I’m planning to use worktop connectors each connector will be screwed to the bottom of the worktops, I will use expansion brass inserts M4 and m4 bolts. That should work? What do you think? How would you tackle issue like this? 1mm gap. Thanks 🙏
I would remove all the silicone and clean the joints Use the two part resin glue and clamp the joint together untill dry if that fails then attempt yoyr suggestion
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 update, i did it Its fixed! At The end i have done 8mm holes and push brass threaded inserts and pulled it together with worktop connecting bolts!!! Super happy 😃
@dcjoinerydjdave6100 quality thankyou so much👌 Best vid on RU-vid about these type of worktops! Wouldn't have got through today without it 😂 big day tomorrow with sink cutouts. Wish me luck 😉🙏
Hi m8, what is effectively your female side of the joint did you router along that edge or do they come sharp enough edged to join, obviously the male side would be scribed and routered
