There’s a little benefit of that additional compression of that double ring piston that adds a tad more compression and your have a little bit more power… but with that additional power comes a significant amount of heat…. Also your cylinder walls are just getting that little blast of mixture in each of your stokes… that second ring and the area in between them receives a lot less oil… a single ring saw’s not gonna be as hot…might be 10% less powerful in it’s top power range… but it’s gonna allow a complete blast of fuel mixture to blast around that piston and coat those cylinder walls with a little better layer of oil in your mixture…, if you are double right and running it like a race car… better be running a little more oil in your mixture… 32:1… it’ll take a little bit longer to burn it’s self up… In Husqvarna the first one was the 371xp single ring and 72cc 50mm over 36 stroke… 28” skipper and you would run it all day… I still have mine from 25 years ago and it’s running great… the 372xp… let’s kick it up a notch and double ring that piston’s…. They pull a full comp 28” better because of your little bit more power… but it’s just not gonna still be alive and well in 25 years… it’s a choice in everything… we need to remove some power and save our cylinder with a single ring… there’s lot’s of hot-rods 372’s where the builder would simply leave out the bottom ring… I personally don’t ever build a saw with the twin ring’s… I don’t need that ultimate power and everything that I can get… I’ll run my single ring piston and pull chain great because it’s just got a decent set of timing numbers and I’ll get my wash of oil on my cylinder in every 13,000 stokes I’m making per minute while she’s cutting… I don’t want to have that ultimate power to reduce my longevity… I want my engine to last for 25 years… so I’m giving her 32:1 through a single and letting her blast a beautiful coating of oil around her bore every time that spark plug pops… 13,000-14,000 pops per minute… it’s just like the lowering of your intake and getting your maximum power… your walking to get another drink of fuel and if I’m not running the ultimate power boost saw… I’ll cut 7 more tree’s down before we need that drink of fuel… there’s many choices to be considered when you’re really looking at building yourself that dang good work saw… or are you just looking at having fun with it and blasting away with all the power you can make and burning twice the fuel! There’s a magical place where you have the right amount of power to pull the bar and chain combo that you are looking to use… and it’s just the right amount of power but it’s not just blowing fuel out a triple port muffler… it’s a balance that is actually obtained… where you should have the power you need but it’s just as efficient as possible also… that’s where I live… I’m just rolling along the old country road with my window down and the radio playing… I’m out to pull up and grab my saw and break a nice looking stick up… it’s so much better when it’s going onto a logging truck because it’s Less cutting… you’re making some long sticks and you don’t need to make a roll with the spray can that’s just a 16” pop of paint… then you have to make all those cuts… firewood cutting you’ll start caring about how often you need to refill the saw’s… 25/30% more efficient for a little touch less power is a good thing 😉👍…, there’s a million way’s to make a saw… it’s all about what you are going to be doing with it that really should be defined when your starting your building process.., hotrod? Firewood? East coast hardwood or north west coast soft… like a square grind will be insanely beautiful cutting until you get into that one dirty tree… then four cuts later it’s done… some round ground is going to be slower in the beginning… but bustin up firewood… it’s going to keep running… longer there then it’s square ground buddy… with those logs they drug up through the woods they are different to get cut up then those ones that are all stacked up with a big grapple bucket… there’s lot’s of different nuances to the saw game… I think that’s what makes it fun… I’m all about the journey and it’s just a really cool and fun ride… my old buddy Dave is 63…smokin a Marlboro and waring cowboy boots and jeans… there’s a helmet in that pile of equipment…but it’s never on his head.. he’s an old hippie… what the heck is PPE… I’m warning my Echo helmet with plugs and muffs on… what hearing I have I really want to try and keep… it’s a personal choice and it’s not really anyone’s business except the guy running the saw! I’ll say one thing that’s for absolute certain… you’ll get a bang or cut or something if you are actually around saw’s long enough… it’s just about how bad you get it… not if you will or won’t… you can trip on a little stick and fall across your newly scrubed 36” bar and you’ll get a hell of a good gash rubbing your arm down your sharp chain…. You should actually always have iodine…maxypads and duct tape at the ready… sometimes you’ll need your paramedic skills too! It’s just life…. I’d say if you are really running a saw often… you also want to make sure you know how to stop some blood… it’s a part of game… roll with the punches is what I’ve learned… God Bless and Happy New Years to the whole tribe!!! I’m going to watch my drunk neighbors light off the mortars 😂😂😂👍
@@old1234 yea they fit and they're cheap on eBay too. Wish I could post a screenshot on here, I'd show you. I just learned this myself from another guy that showed me it fit
@@dentondunn4346 I just saw a post from a guy that did it with a ms461 AM full wrap. He had to slightly bend the bottom bracket. Posted on Echo Chainsaw FB group
Thank You!! Great information to know the measurement differences. That’s why the 620 has the welded on spacers on bottom of muffler. Please do a video or share stock for stock timing numbers between 590 vs 620 if you get them. Appreciate the video
Boedy good porting tip on the longer the exhaust port the lower the rpm peak is for more torque. Don't eat that hot pepper may be a Carolina reaper the hottest pepper in the world.
nice info. i was wondering if u knew where i could the brass high speed nozzle for the 590 carb. i soldered the bypass on mine and i find it too touchy to tune. i got a like new carb. -take off- from ebay. wanted to make the original a virgin again. thanx
Great video, the echo 590 in uk is not as cheap a saw as in the USA. Echo cs 590 $721, stihl 362 $1018 , husky 560xp $799. All saws with 20 inch bar and chain less tax , so you would have put USA tax on top . Echo and husky very close but stihl far out all prices from the same dealer.
Ahhhhh soooooo… is the 620 a deBored, stroker 365 Special?? With bad, or hard to work with timing numbers? With all that stroke and what I’m gathering is poor-ish timing numbers I think we need to move more towards treating it like a Diesel maybe a rich mixture with a high knock (octane) to maximize dwell time..? So spark gap, maybe a washer to index the electrode.. a hotter plug puts more in the chamber colder moves it up farther.. spitballing here.. Plus Full Wraps a little overrated if you stump with your saw. I can cut them low enough a mower can glide over it. That’s a hard no if you’ve got the wrap. The best is to have both. But who’s got an extra $120 + the ride these days… BTW, I think the little red barn “pop up” is a waste of time. Back before the internet I used to read every Summit Jegs JC Whitney Comp Cams etc CATALOG I could get my hands on. One thing I noticed off the git is piston crowns.. hold up… Summit and maybe it was Jegs, was OBSESSED with measurements and I noticed that pop up pistons were de decked pistons so at an early age I knew there were only so many machines make x number of parts. They would actually publish the fact they cut down pistons if you read the details enough.
Great shirts. !! I used to get my ass whopped every jujitsu class when it comes to hot stuff I’m a sis also no thank you. Thank you Dave for help boedy 🙏🔥🪓
