Hey! One small correction on brake ROTOR diameter. The NB big sport brakes front rotor was 10.6" (269mm) not 11" as I'd mentioned in the vid around the 3min mark. SORRY!
Yea, the front NB sport rotor is a 269.5mm x 22mm. I'm guessing a typo was made to get 279. People don't expect the rear diameter to be larger than the front, but it is.
thank you! Ive been tearing my hair out trying to get this figured out but it looks like a lot of vendors with BBK also refer to these 9.25 as 10" and 10.6 as 11". I clicked on every model mx5 miata nb on rock auto and couldnt find one dam 11" lol thought i was missing something
Great vid. I love how construction is different in different parts of the world. Your “garage” has no rear wall! Being from Canada, have never seen something like this. I do like it.
I'm a DAV. I drive a 2016 Miata Club. Thank you for this video! I recently needed to replace my pads and rotors all around. I mades some calls to a handful of Mazda dealerships. Outragious prices averaged between $500-$650 plus tax. I thought I'd check aftermarket prices, went on RockAuto.com, found and purchased one of their dual axle (non-Brembo) Centric brake kits said to fit my car. The cost was less than $140 total for four new basic Centric rotors and Centric brake pads, clips included! Just did the work the other day at my local military base Auto Skills Hobby Shop. $5 an hour there to use their tools and hydraulic lifts plus everything else they offer along with free advice if needed! Love it! Thank you God!
Nice summary of the corner group components! Maybe you can do a video that summarizes the 6 different master cylinders that were equipped in early Miatas and their interchangeability with options like the Mazda 929 master cylinder and the generic Wilwood upgrade. More confusing (to me at least) are all of the factory prop valve combinations and different vacuum booster options.
Thanks for the comments Firebert. A good consideration that I had not thought of. Generally I find 95% of people don't change boosters and proportion setups, and only swap oem calipers/rotors from later models or aftermarket kits... so I hadn't even put a thought to boosters and the like.
Very nice video! I was looking on the internet for some good advice on what to do with my brake system and what to upgrade and how, and i found your video very useful 👌🏻
After I installed this kit I noted the model number of the supplied calipers and eventually ordered the DynaPro with the next larger piston size. This increased the pedal travel slightly but resulted in FAR MORE braking force. It's the way the kit should have come.
How to change rear pads and allow for pad space starts at 6:50. It's not the same as every other car so pushing back the piston only won't allow new pad installation! Use a 14mm crescent wrench and 4mm Hex T wrench.
Too bad most parts are made in the US, taxes and import fees are killing it sometimes haha... I have upgraded to a Wilwood Dynalite setup with Volkswagen Corrado G60 discs and Ferrodo DS2500 pads, they come from the UK and are with custom made CNC brackets. In NL no one makes this kind of kits :( .. Interesting video man! I will take a look on the US market for when i need to replace some pads or discs ! I think their ahead of the game when it comes to quality parts for the miata :)
Hey Samm, thanks for watching...! it certainly sucks. Can you imagine how bad it is for us Australians... stuck on the other side of the earth all by ourselves :-P
Great video as usual. May have been nice if you touched on the cross drilled ventilated discs. Eg: water shedding ability etc. Being such light cars l guess it's over kill for most applications. I'm using Yellow Spot pads with excellent results. No heat up required and no fadeing when pushed really hard on the track. All oem except pads.
Thanks DGA. I've generally found slotted discs aren't worth the extra cost over an oem disc, even under high performance conditions. Interesting you mention yellowstuff, I used some of the EBC pads many years ago and was disappointed.. however maybe they have improved since.
if you have some common wheels you might be able to get an answer on if they fit. or try to find someone that has sport brakes and test fit your wheels on their car
As always great Video!! Keep it up!! 👍🏻👍🏻 I do have a question though, if the calipers of the 255mm and the 279mm are identical (are they?) I Really only Need the different mounting brackets to swap from 255-279mm?? 🤔
Hi Clemens, not quite. The calipers on the early 1.6 cars are the same as those on the NON-Sport 1.8 cars. The caliper is interchangeable for those. (235mm rotor and 254mm rotor) Sadly the larger sport brakes with 279mm rotors ARE running different calipers.
Great video and thank you! I have an 93 NA so I could swap the entire brake assembly from NB 2003 on to get the biggest brakes? Asking because I want to go to a junkyard for the parts. Thanks again!
Also worth noting when swapping your rear 1.6 brakes to 1.8 ones, while it still uses the same caliper you will need to have the 1.8 bracket, 1.8 rotors, AND 1.8 brake pads. The 1.6 pads wont work with 1.8 brackets and rotors. Ask me how I know lol.
Howdy Brendan. Do you know if the NB sport the Turbo edition if the rear hubs are different to the regular NB? The calipers for the rear are 90mm locating centre to centre and I was just wondering if the sport edition was 90mm aswell. Cheers
The na 1.6 and 1.8 use the same caliper but with different mounting bracket. Is that all or do the pad clips also need to be replaced? Looking to upgrade my 1.6 brakes. Cheers
Hi mate my build has hit the track for a shakedown. Ive put the 270mm front brake kit on with track pads ( ebc blue). And left the rears 232 mk1 1.6. Ive got the 270mm rear just ran out of time...car was brill and plenty of stopping power...infact easily locking front.....is it worth putting rears on? Concerned the 1.6 master cylinder too small with both front n rear 270mm any wisdom greatly appreciated....going back to tuners for 230bhp and then off to thruxton on 14th...pondering what todo.
If it were my car, I'd leave the rears as is and just ensure the consumables (pads/rotors/lines) are up to scratch, they don't work that hard at the track. You could then consider whether you really feel the balance isn't right after driving the car. I'd argue EBC blues aren't the best choice given your power level and for a track like Thruxton, but honestly I've not used them personally.
@@Bbeavis cheers mate. What i did was 270mm front n rear discs with carriers. Brand new 270mm calipers for front and fitted the nearly new 1.6 calipers on rear 270mm carriers. New braided lines and bled out 1.5 litres of rbf660 through it. New sliders too. Pedal feels very nice now. Off to Thruxton we go💪🚀🏁
@@TaffytheGreyhound Reducing the weight of the car, and in the case of brakes, the unsprung mass, is really just a raw performance thing, it's not going to influence comfort in any noticeable way.
I'm a new miata nb owner but I'm confused. The previous guy said the car had sport suspension, does that mean my car has sport brakes and rotors? I went on amazon to look for rotors/pads and most options say "Fits only with standard suspension" or "exc. sport suspension". I'm having a lot of trouble finding something that works or at least says so.
If you are not sure what you have (or if someone has upgraded to other OEM parts on your car), best suggestion is to measure. The NB big sport brakes front rotor is 10.6" (269mm).
I've actually never tried myself however there's a metal bracket under the car where the two separate cables from the rear calipers meet, I suspect that would allow you to adjust bias. Otherwise, be sure to check the HEX adjuster in the rear calipers is right.
I have a question abouth rear l have na1.6 and l have all nb mazda speed’s rear brake parts 276mm(caliper,rotor ,dust cover and original braket) so whats my question Can l swap %100 directly or will l need some parts?
@@kajeej1115 Brake lines should be fine, most aftermarket brake line kits are the same for all NA/NB cars. Yes, worst case you need to bend the dust shield out of the way slightly.
Sorry Tomasz we didn't get the 1.6 NB here in Australia so I don't know, but I would safely assume its almost exactly the same as a standard spec 1.8 NB.
I run an AP racing caliper on my NB MX-5 (not Lotus specific though). 288mm certainly will fit some 15" rims, for example my own car runs 300mm rotors with its 15" rims.
Hi, do you know if a nbfl (2005) 1.8 vvt would have the bigger brakes or not? It’s the icon special edition if that makes any difference? Can’t find out anywhere online and don’t want to order the wrong ones
I got some stop tech pads and they are the worst for brake dust. Ruined my wheels over the winter when I didn't wash them regularly. Didn't think it was too bad until spring when I had a bunch of surface rust. How much dust do the Hawk pads produce?
Hi, I've run both StopTech and Hawk pads. The HP+ pads are slightly more dusty (not to mention much more abrasive) than the StopTech 309. Both of these pads create much more dust than the less aggressive Hawk HPS or Centric 105 Posi-quiet pads. 309 and HP+ are comparable for maximum operating temperature. The HP+ squeals a lot more, but has a little more cold bite. Less aggressive performance pads like the HPS and Centric posiquiet have decent MOT's, but are much more livable. For my Miata, I'm running the StopTech BBK in the front with 309's and stock brakes in the rear with HPS's. I'll be switching the HPS's to 105's sometime soon to see the difference.
Quite possibly, a 96 model (despite the 1.6 engine) likely has the "1.8 standard size" brakes that the 10AE runs. Little tricky to know for sure, international special models were less explicit as they are in Aus.
@@Bbeavis Turns out the previous owner fitted the Mk1 1.6 with 1.8 brakes with 255mm disks. Now has better pads, lines, fluid and a master cylinder stopper. Should be ok for just the one track day. More importantly, the Mk2.5 shockers and springs which sat it up in the air have now been replaced by coilovers that sit it at a sensible height.
The master cylinders are larger on the SPORT brake cars. But it's not a huge difference, you may find slightly longer pedal travel with a larger caliper on the older (smaller) master cyl.
I ran the NB8B brakes with the NA6 brake setup with no issues. What you will find is that the increased size of the rear rotor (275mm) will cause the bias to shift rearward. You can overcome this by using a less aggressive pad in the rear or fitting a bias adjuster on the rear. If you go the bias adjuster you may as well dispense with the proportioning valve completely. This way 100% pressure will always go to the front and then you adjust the bias going to the rear. Alternativley go a full custom pedal box with different size masters and a balance bar with in cabin adjustment...
Most if not all the after market shops here in the US resell Wilwood stuff. I personally wouldnt use their crap on my lawn mower. Even the Stop Tech looks like they have rebaged the Wilwood calipers. They are crazy asking $1200 for a set up. Looks like its time for me to make my own. Maybe even offer a nice kit of my own for about half what they want and I promise it will work better.
Stopping power wise they all about the same or near, MX5 have no power anyway. Anything extra is just carrying metal. But one piece aftermarket caliper always more rigid over slide caliper.
Stock brakes would work for almost every street car. Only in a track application would you be able to properly overheat a brake setup enough with repeated braking from high speeds to necessitate a larger setup. Just install some good pads like Hawk HP+ or Hawk Blue and run quality fluid with braided brake lines.
Hi. I have been doing as much research as possible on Miatas, because it will be the first car that I purchase. I am planning on getting an NB, not sure which year. When you talk about some of the smaller things here, such as the bolts and pin sliders and all of that, I have no idea what you’re talking about. How can I become well-versed when it comes to these things? Does it just involve reading the owner’s manual and trial and error when working on my car? Thanks.
Take your wheel off and have a look. Watch some video guides on how to change brakes/oil etc, service your car yourself... just get out there and learn. But be careful.
Got it. Will do - I will certainly be careful before hitting the track. Found a 1994 NA that was auctioned off at Buy a Trailer, has 13k miles for about $12,000. Will be checking it out this weekend.
@@Bbeavis Thanks for responding. I'm not exactly sure. Right now, I am trying to fix my ABS so demystification would be nice. Where are the components (eg. the relay)? How can you get the front sensor out and in of its mounting hole (hint: it's a tight fit)? How to read the error codes without a code reader (see RU-vid)? What does ABS do to Front/Rear proportioning? (eg. Should you increase the rear bias for better handling under mild braking/wet roads because ABS will deal with the emergency situations?) Does ABS render proportioning irrelevant? Why did Mazda use a 3-channel ABS? Is 3 enough? How does the Miata system work? How does ABS help ...on a track? ...on the street?
In general, the slave cylinders don't get much attention, they did grow over the years, but nothing significant changed. Slave cylinder of the braking system, is the brake calipers?
Pre load the rear brake piston? Only if you want binding rear brakes, Best follow the Mazda workshop manual I think. He means adjust the running clearance of the pads to disc. Please be careful with advice seen on RU-vid it can be misleading. otherwise some useful information.
Hey man quick question. The brakes on my 91 NA6 are horrendous. I cannot get them to lock the tires whatsoever. In an emergency stop situation it feels like the rotors are just slipping on the pads. This is after new pads,and new braided lines. I'm guessing the brake booster is bad and not sending enough pressure to the calipers but I have no idea. Any input would be greatly appreciated
I believe there's absolutely a correlation between grip level and braking capability. If your grip level increases, be it with stickier tyres or downforce for example, then you can stop harder and faster, this means the brakes can heat up faster and likely from higher speeds. More heat means a need for more heat dissipation, larger brakes help with all this.
If you have more grip then the brakes can apply more torque without locking, hence you can stop faster! However stopping faster generates more heat, not to mention more stress/heat on the pads. Ignoring roll centers for the moment 500kg of static weight at 1.5g equates to 750kg, at 2.0g it is 1,000kg. This is one reason why you need to review your brake setup. Most pads are designed to operate at a certain temp, if you go outside this range performance will suffer. A street pad will (generally) have a decreasing coefficient of friction as heat increases. The coefficient of friction (µ) can range from 0.00 to 1.00. That is if you need 1,000 kg of force (parallel to the ground) to move 1000kg you have a coefficient of 1µ. If you need 500 kg of force to move the same 1000kg you have a coefficient of 0.50 µ. A track pad will maintains its µ value across a wide heat range, what is needed for a track pad. However, if subjected to sustained heat build up (QR national layout) may start to decrease in performance if not adequately cooled. Further, larger rotors have better thermal management due to the larger surface area. With the OEM setup when used on the track you need to service the slider pins often, after every few track days.
With the hillclimb races I participate in, I wouldn't be able to get track brakes up to operating temps. Brakes are only necessary for a half dozen turns per run. However, I would benefit from a lighter overall braking setup, but haven't really found anything that fits the bill (yet). Have any suggestions?
You could always 'downgrade' to the 1.6 braking setup, or even consider one of the smaller size wilwood kits that are available as they usually help reduce unsprung mass. Have you tried a softer road pad or even a low temp track pad?
My times didn't seem to be affected when I switched from OEM/organic pads to Hawk HPS. Our hillclimbs are pretty steep, with lots of tight technical sections. In a power-limited car, lifting out of the throttle is generally enough to bring the car down a gear quickly (15% grade is no joke). Stock braking performance is great for hillclimbs, I just want to let the suspension do its job the best that it can. It looks like Flyin' Miata has a wilwood caliper kit that sheds ~4lbs on each front wheel (using OEM rotors). That would necessitate using PowerLite pads going forward though, which gets expensive in short order.
I use Ferodo DS1.11 or DSUNO endurance race pads in my Wilwoods because they work from cold. I do a combination of track and sprint events and they are _the_ best pads for mixed events. They are very expensive but because they are super low wear so the rotors and the pads will last easily twice as long as any other race pad. In the longer run they are cheaper... plus they don't dust.
I have the 1.6 na model... Can i swap to nbfl sport big brake package straight away? Will it fit straight bolt on? Do i need the master cylinder as well? Thanks.
Hi Panos, Yes you can swap the brake calipers, their mounting brackets, and the rotors straight no. You don't need to change the master cylinder, however take note they did change over the years so you may find the pedal feel is a bit different to what you're used to.
