Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning 

This is true life right here!

@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko your windage on your sight is all the way to the left to hit with field points or broadheads or both?

@@BustedLimbOutdoorsfield points. I’m driving myself crazy, I think the pro shop didn’t do something right but I can’t figure it out.

@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko shoot broadheads that you’ll be hunting with. If they hit with your field points, you’re good. No sense in sweating it. If they don’t hit with your field points, then we have a potential tuning issue. Some sights are just made with less windage/elevation adjustment than others. What sight are you running?

@@BustedLimbOutdoors Trophy Ridge Hotwire the sight that it came with, I bought a ready to hunt package adapt plus it’s supposed to be a good sight it’s a $179 bucks , I was told it’s a good sight. Thanks for the help.🙏🏽

Thank you so much!

Wow, thank you so much!

You are correct. The bareshafts are not forgiving for any archer unless your form is extremely consistent.

Glad it was helpful!

Happy to help! Thank you for watching.

Thanks gentlemen!

Our pleasure! We hope it helps!

Thank you so much!

Nock tuning yes, but spine alignment and vane alignment I have just never seen a difference.

Yes, you can turn your bow weight down by backing out the limb bolts which will make the dynamic spine of your arrow react stiffer as the bow will be pushing less hard against it.

There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way. For mechanical release aid shooters... Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left You should always tune your bow to how you shoot it, not how someone else or how the machine shoots it. The compound bow is a machine, but you are apart of that machine and you must both be aligned with it to get the arrow flight you desire. I would confirm that your broadheads are impacting where you want them to before you go hunting. Best of luck to you this fall!

Sir I hate to burst your bubble but everyone messes this up. He’s right, you move your rest towards your broadheads. The reasoning behind this is because if your broadhead shoots right of field points that means your arrow is planing nock left and the broadhead is exaggerating this by dumping to the right. By moving the rest to the left, yes your broadhead will hit the target but you’re making your bow come out of tune even worse.

Thank you. Sorry for any confusion, but what I state in the video is correct. Perhaps the other videos you watched were on bowhunters shooting with fingers, and not a mechanical release aid. If shooting with fingers, you would have to move the rest opposite of what I state in the video.

Both

Both. If impact point is the same but the nock end is angled, take a few steps back and you will see the bareshaft impact point change.

Hey mate, depending on what your arrow length is and what weight of insert you use will determine if your arrow is reacting too weak causing the consistent right impact. If your arrow is 28.5" and you're using the standard 16 grain aluminum insert from Easton, this should not be the case. To test, do what you mentioned and turn your bow weight down 5 lbs and see if the problem persists. If it does, it is a bow tune issue, not an arrow spine issue. If it goes away, adjust your arrow to react with a stiffer spine. If it is a bow tune issue, you have a few options. If it is impacting right 4" at 30 yards, you could start by slightly moving your rest to the right. Test and compare to see if your broadheads move closer to your field points as you make this adjustment. On the prodigy, you could also add twists to your left yokes, and remove twists in the right yokes. Minimal adjustment with this would have big results (EX half twist tighter on left yoke for top and bottom and half twist looser on right yoke top and bottom may be all you need) I hope this helps!

You have to have a hoyt for that mod

Hey Doug, you are very welcome and thank you for watching! I do not shy away from feather fletchings because of noise, but because of their durability overall and inability to steer arrows when wet and in the elements. Feathers will almost always steer better than plastic fletchings, but the upsides of the plastic fletchings are worth it to me for the majority of hunting scenarios. God Bless! - Josh

What bow?

Cut a small piece of dloop material and pull out the core and insert that into 1 cable. I've not done it but saw.a fellow doing that to micro tune and it makes sense....I do a similar thing above my peep.

Great question! There are a few things you can do here, but usually not a necessity to stress over if you've got it that close. 1. Nocking point position slightly higher or lower can affect this depending on the bow/cam system. 2. thicker or thinner serving replaced around one of the cables. 3. If the end loops are not served, you can twist individual string strands instead of the whole loop/cable. 4. Someone below also mentioned inserting something into one of the cables such as d-loop material without the core. That would work as well. One note here - do this only after you are positive you've broke in your strings and have several hundred shots through them. Note that also, leaving your bow in the heat or in the car can and will stretch your string/cables so it's easy to have them on perfectly, then have them move slightly due to string stretch or settling. I hope this helps! Keep shooting straight.

Awesome, thank you for the thoughtful answers. The bow is an rx7. When I wrote that, I still had stock strings. I’ve been breaking in gas ghost strings since I wrote the question and plan to recheck everything very soon. Cam sync was a hair off when I installed the new strings, but I need to recheck after a couple of weeks shooting. Much appreciate the time you take responded.

@@CalPoly2015 small piece of hockey stick tape

If your bow is not tuned, yes it will.

@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you for the response 🙏

Yep, a fixed broad head is like adding small wings or fletches up front. Out of tune bows will be letting the BH do some steering. And that's bad news.

Hoyt RX-8

Thank you 👍🎯

I go over my specs at 4:54 in the video

Have you checked your static cam lean?

@@michaelcolthart4006 no I don’t even know what that is . I’m a newbie I took it to a pro shop and they set it up. I’ve got it dialed in to 60 yards just hitting the targets almost middle but the windage is all the way to the left just to keep in the middle and the there’s no more left windage left at all I’m at the limit. Thanks for the help. 🙏🏽

@@michaelcolthart4006 thanks for the help🙏🏽

@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko perhaps flip your scope housing I had to w/HHA Scope…Josh will chime in 🏆

My answer varies depending on what sight you are utilizing as I am unsure of the adjustment you may have based on your mounting bracket and the windage bar. If you tell me the sight brand and model along with how you have it attached and what bow, I may be able to help you further as most sights have additional ways of adjustment to get it to fit appropriately. If not, you may be able to get a different bracket for your sight to get the appropriate adjustment. If the sight is attached normally, it is also possible the rest is outside of centershot too far to the left. To correct this, move your rest back to the right to normal centershot and shim the cams to the right. Only do this if your arrow rest is too far to the left and you've exhausted your resources for adjusting your sight. I hope this helps! -Josh

Not always true - example would be that you can take 2 bows of the same brand/model/year and not have them have the same shim configuration, yet the center shot is the same and they both tune the same for the same archer… This is because the limbs from bow to bow are not built consistent enough for everything to be equal from bow to bow, regardless of the brand you shoot. It seems that most shops are too lazy to adjust the shims, so they just adjust the rest and call it good, when really, the shims need the adjustment. You are correct in the fact that most archers/bowhunters in general have the issues they do because of their bow grip. They adjust shims to compensate for their bad grip, then over time, learn the proper grip and adjust back. Just don’t want anyone to be confused here so commenting back to give more context. Thanks for watching!

Just cool it with the "well ackshually" gamma nonsense. Nobody is confused that arrows have an active steering system.

Aaaaahhhh, such a dumb comment.....

I bet you’re super fun at parties.

You are correct his information about rest adjustment to correct broadheads impact is incorrect. You adjust opposite where the broadheads impact from field points. Hitting left of fieldpoint move rest to the right. Although lots of other useful information in this video. Haven’t seen someone put it all together like this before.

There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way. For mechanical release aid shooters... Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left Thank you for watching and I hope this helps!