Complete Guide: UTV Towing & Trailering 

Yeah I’ve seen some people really compress the suspension when strapping things down. I agree I don’t think that’s the best method, things start bouncing and now you have slack followed by sudden tension - not good for the straps either.

Excellent point! I don’t think I mentioned tire pressure, I check it before every major trip and it’s important for safety and gas mileage. I didn’t realize that about tongue weight, that does make sense. Thanks for the comment!

You bet - can you shoot me an email? Asknwf@gmail.com and I’ll shoot you some photos or videos when I have some time.

Wheel tie downs can work well too.

I put a reinforcement plate on the backside of the anchors so it’s distributed across a bunch of boards. Theres no good place to attach the the frame back there unfortunately :( The one thing I don’t like about this trailer is it just doesn’t have a lot of convenient attachment points. I actually didn’t think of that with the emergency brakes but yeah, really great point. When we bought the trailer as we were pulling it out of the lot, the brake box actually shorted out and they had to replace the thing right there. Thanks Dr Mark!!!!

Appreciate that. Yeah lots of things to consider… most of which I’ve learned the hard way lol

Yes I agree - they shouldn’t be loosening repeatedly and definitely not getting very loose. Most of it is the soft loops we use - they tend to cinch down tighter after a few miles - it’s almost impossible to pull them as tight as they can get with a 2,000 lb machine pulling on them. We usually need to give each ratchet a couple clicks after a little bit on the road and then it’s good the rest of the trip.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I confess that I didn’t watch the whole video earlier because of the strap method. However, you gave us great info on that emergency brake cable and adjusting the “gain” of the trailer brakes. Imagine having a full cord of oak in a trailer behind a 3/4 ton pickup and forgetting to boost the trailer brakes… I only did that once.

I appreciate your comment! And I think it’s a fair argument. The downside one downside I could see with that is if you break a strap or one loosens and you don’t notice, you’re now potentially pulling your load laterally / unevenly in one direction. I’ve heard the argument both ways, I can’t find data to back one or the other, both have some logic behind them. At the end of the day, my own opinion is I don’t think matters a whole lot - at least based on the load I’m hauling. Vehicles experience far less lateral Gs than front to back…. I think at the point where it might make a difference, my truck is going to be on it’s side anyways. So… I think that’s a totally valid technique you describe. I’m actually really interested in this and I’d love to see some testing or data behind it! You’d think the giant equipment haulers would look at this 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for your take on it. Good thoughts and I appreciate it! 🤙🏼

and thanks by the way for the compliment! We’d love an enclosed trailer - maybe someday! 🙏🏼

So let’s say I swerve right, when I correct the swerve, weight transfers to the right side. So you’re saying the left side of the machine will lift off the deck and roll off my trailer? How are the straps on my left side of the machine going to allow the left side to lift off the deck? The simply can’t unless they break The straps have a fixed length when they are locked in. One strap cannot shift its angle off the deck, or even laterally, because there are three other straps that are also locked at a fixed distance. For the left rear strap to pivot to the right, the only way for that to happen is for the machine to shift backwards too. The front straps will not allow that to happen. And vice versa. I’m not saying other techniques (x pattern, using the wheels, etc) doesn’t work equally well. But not a single person who has commented on this video has shown any evidence or reasoning behind their argument. It’s all anecdotal. I’ve looked for tests and haven’t seen them. If you know of one please share, genuinely I’d like to see. Not trying to be rude, we can agree to disagree but I don’t see how what you’re saying will happen is geometrically possible without multiple straps breaking.

Thanks! Everyone has their own little take on things but it should give people a place to start. Cheers!

Congrats! Glad it helped!!!

Thank you. I never thought that twisting the chains was an issue but it makes sense. Easy enough to use bailing wire, that’s a great idea I hadn’t thought of. I appreciate it and I’ll do that in the future.

Would you expect it to be more or less? I’ve never weighed it on a scale, but the manufacturer’s website says “curb weight” for this specific model is 1487 lbs. The certificate of origin gives a “shipping weight” of 1480 lbs. Next time I take a load of junk to the dump I’ll ask them if I can weigh it quick.

Great question. I would not put it in gear. But I believe park or neutral would be good choices. I have no doubt if towing in Park was actually bad, Polaris would put a warning sticker on the shifter. I also don’t see anything in the manual about not towing in park. That said, it shouldn’t make a difference if you have the machine strapped down properly.

Interesting. I searched for that specific language in KY traffic statutes and couldn’t find it. Thanks for the heads up.

Glad it was helpful! It sounds like you made a good move! I bet 75% of the trailers I see hooked up people have their e brake cables setup in a way it won’t do anything if the trailer comes unhitched. That switch is supposed to brake away from the box and I guess most people don’t realize that. Since I made this video I generally use the rear hitch now on the back side - it’s just faster but I still secure to the rock sliders up front. They are mounted on there solidly with big bolts and it’s actually kind of hard to find a solid place on the frame that is easy to reach. Hope you enjoy your new home. It sounds like there is plenty of great riding in AZ!

Wood is nice for dampening vibration and friction! Plus it’s a little cheaper usually too.

There are a thousand ways to strap down a SxS, going over the wheels works fine too

😂 show me the proof! Everyone is so set that the only way to do it is the way they do it, but NEVER can back it up. Ever see a semi strap a front end loader down by the tires? Nope. Strapping by tires on a UTV works great. So do many other ways. The load needs to be secured so it doesn’t shift. Both methods accomplish that.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I’m glad to send you the pics of when I flipped the trailer, repaired the roof, and pawned it off on some day laborers. Hey, ain’t you that other guy?

Thanks! I’d say 50% of trailers I see hooked up have this wrong!

Thanks. I’ve thought about airbags especially given the weight we generally haul in the bed when we go on long trips too. Occasionally if I put the machine a little too far forward I do notice a little more bounce in the rear when we go over bumps. I bet it makes the towing smoother.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily The airbags make a big difference. I find they even help out with the stability. Used to tow a 32ft. camper.,30lbs of pressure was all that was needed. Keep the videos coming,as I and others enjoy your content a great deal. May you and your family be safe on all of your travels.

You’re welcome!

I think the wheels is a very good option too. I’d love some day to see someone actually test everything and have some data with pros/cons. I’d wager we’re all over thinking it 🤷‍♂️

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily we probably are overthinking it but on a vehicle the rule of thumb is never secure to a place that can move. The side can move with the suspension and it puts extra unneeded stress on your tie downs. Wheels and lower A arms as close to the hubs as possible solves that problem.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamilyI don’t have data but I tie down my tires and never have broken a tie down point. My friend tied his above the suspension and ripped one of his d-ring to shreds.

Glad it was helpful and really good point on the state regulations!

Single axle trailer? I suppose that would mean the axle strength is the limiting factor of the trailer…. The weakest link in the chain so to speak. Probably not uncommon actually. GAWR = Gross axle weight rating.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily trailer is usually a tandem axle but I had it custom built with one axle.

You bet!!!

That is another option that works well.

You won’t regret getting a tandem axle. Well worth the cost especially for a heavier machine. Only thing I’d really say is I’ve gone away from twisting the chains because it could put for stress on them if they pull taught suddenly and bind up. I just use a simple zip tie now to take up the slack. It’s funny because people get pretty heated and opinionated about some of these things but no one ever has data to back it up. Glad you found the video helpful!!

Thanks! That sounds like a nice setup. We’d to get an enclosed trailer someday.

Yeah, there is definitely some drag but when the machine is on it, I don’t think it matters. If I don’t have a machine on it and I’m going for a farther drive (rare), I’ll lay the ramp all the way forward flat on the deck and throw a strap across it. I don’t regret buying this trailer one bit.

I don’t think it matters. Park or neutral. It’s strapped down so tight it doesn’t move.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily I strap through the tires so she doesn’t move

Absolutely!!! Tandem is the way to go, I'm really glad I went this route. Well worth the extra money especially if you are towing longer distances at interstate speeds. It bounces less, sways correct faster. Behind my Tundra I almost forget this thing is there (aside from having to stop at every gas station I pass lol)

Appreciate your opinion but it is not unsafe. Truckers strap cars, trucks and heavy machinery down to the frame all the time. The straps loosen this was because the loops slip into position and tighten up after a few miles. I stop after a couple miles, click them a few more times and they stay tight all the way across the country. I’ve have trailered this machine thousands of miles across the country many times and they never loosen. Your way of strapping the machine down over the wheels works great too. The problem with that, and why I don’t do it, is because it limits where you can put your machine on the trailer. Depending on what we are carrying I will need to move my machine forward or back on the trailer to fit other gear or balance the weight.

Glad to hear! Thanks!!!

It doesn’t! The emergency brake that is activated by the cable if the trailer comes off the hitch will still work however. Another option for trailer brakes is “surge brakes” which don’t require a trailer braking system in the truck. Those just work off the momentum of the trailer itself, and they generally work pretty good.

Yes good point! Especially driving at night it can be difficult to see a longer trailer without running lights.

Thanks glad it was helpful! Congrats on the new machine!

Sure it does. The suspension is not compressed at all.

I really didn’t worry about it them getting wet. You gotta be dry them off when you arrive but everything in there can get wet. Now I just keep my windshield on while trailering and I put a cover on the windshield to protect it from rock chips. That keeps the inside plenty dry.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily Thank you! We have a 10 hr drive ahead of us so I'll have to figure something out. Great to see you guys back on RU-vid!

A lovely Cavalier Cover...

Former Jeep Overlanders here, and first time SxS’ers. Just came here to say that I appreciate your channel and the content that you and your family are putting out. I binged watched your channel while anxiously waiting for our (first) General XP4 1000 to arrive. You’ve got me sold on your trailer choice. Thanks and keep the content coming!

You’re welcome! Glad the video was useful. I didn’t know myself for the longest time, had hooked them up where they would have been totally ineffective previously.

16’ - the important thing with the e brake is the cable pulls tight and activates the brake before the chains pull tight. You can do they a variety of ways but too often people have the e brake cable longer than their chains. That’s a problem.

@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you! Was wondering how my general would look on a 16 haha! Yes you are absolutely correct on the safety cable great video btw

I believe those were the 15 footers

Interesting take thanks for sharing. Wouldn’t you be concerned about the A arms bending?

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily The heavy lower a-arm are the best. Some folks strap trough the wheel and tire if the opening in the wheels are large enough to pass the strap through. The wheel is still part of the suspension when tied down like this. Check a few of the official sites for UTV sales and service they have lots of good informative vids about this subject.

I didn’t think we did… and the sales guy said no…. but since you brought it up I’m having second thoughts 😆 need to do some reading….

I wasn't sure either originally from Michigan. In Michigan every trailer has to be plated. I understand in Wisconsin the trailer less than 3000 pounds doesn't have to be plated etc. I recently bought a polaris ranger ultimate in Michigan but I'm a Wisconsin resident. The big tex trailer I bought is 77 by 14 long. My trailer title shows the shipping weight 1400 and G V.W.R up to 6000 pounds. My concern is the total weight hauling it down the road if it has to be registered and plated considering the total weight polaris/trailer over 3000 pounds. I'll make a trip to the dmv in Madison Wisconsin with my trailer title and registered it. Take it from there.

16’ x 6’

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you for the reply

No problem. The manufacturer is High Country Trailers www.highcountrytrailers.com/ And we bought it at 51 Sales in Stoughton, WI

Thanks! Its 16’ long and I believe 6.5’ wide. I’ll confirm tomorrow when I get back to it tomorrow. We’re on the last night of an overland trip tonight.

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily Thanks! Enjoy the rest of the trip.

@Matt Mattingly I Did confirm this - it’s an HLS 6.5x16 2.0

@@TheNorthwoodsFamily thank you!

Thanks! Appreciate it. One thing I changed is I don’t twist the chains anymore. I just used some zip ties to take up the slack.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

Thanks! Often the simplest approach is the best. People can be very particular about this stuff but if the machine is tight and doesn’t move, and the load is balanced, you should be good to go!

You are right in the sense that the trailer brakes should be slowing the trailer. However, I respectfully disagree with the rest. The bias sets the proportion or relation of the trailer brakes to the vehicle brakes. In the video I am just testing the bias setting. I am applying 0% braking power to my truck, but 100% power to my trailer when testing the bias. Once set, and I apply my truck brakes, the trailer brakes are automatically applied in proportion to how hard I am applying the truck brakes. The truck brakes slow the truck down (and the trailer a little too). The trailer brakes slow the trailer down. They work together. The harder I brake the truck, the harder the trailer brakes are applied. In an emergency braking situation, when your truck activates ABS, you want your trailer brakes at their threshold (max braking power) without locking up. If they are set too light, you're extending your braking distance. Plus, the trailer could try to "pass" the tow vehicle and come around on you which is even worse. Likewise, you can have the same problem if the trailer brakes lock up too soon. There is a little wiggle room. I've been driving and if it feels like when I release the brakes the vehicle jolts forward, then I back off the bias a bit. But in most conditions, setting them this way gets me really close. And at the end of the day, even if I have to replace my shoes every few years (4,000 miles and they look brand new), I'd rather do that and maximize the braking abilities of my rig. Brakes are meant to be used, and I set mine to give me the maximum ability to stop in an emergency.

I have the same truck as you and I tow rzr and quad in the bed it tows fine good video

😆 I was waiting for someone to come along and say that! 107,000 miles and the only thing I’ve needed to replace is a $30 sensor - that’s why I bought it! That said the gas mileage is pretty bad especially when towing. I wasn’t thrilled after test driving the Tundras so when it’s time for a new truck, the field will be wide open 🤷‍♂️