I have been hunting and reloading and collecting 60+ years and I learn something from him everytime I watch his channel! Never to old to learn! He is at the top of his profession and I only want to learn from the best so I don’t have to learn from the road of hard knocks!
@@ajcates9136I have 60+ years of reloading and always learning something new from him! He is willing to give his vast knowledge of we will just listen and copy!
Great job in explaining load work up! Your skill and experience are so obvious. Please keep posting. We will all be better marksmen and better hunters.
Randy, I can attest to just how accurately you build rifles. My .300 WBY Mag shot slightly over .4 when I got it. Doing further load workup and switching to 180 grain Barnes brought it down to .337 with a slight velocity increase and SD improvement. Thank you for posting this!
I’m sure glad you expanded on the use of the micrometer and where to measure. You mentioned that a few years back in one of your videos and now I understand what your were saying. Your the man randy, thanks for all the advice on reloading, it’s extremely helpful
Because of many questions, in the next week or so, I'll have even more information on our Patreon channel on the subject. Follow us on patreon.com/therealgunsmith. Thanks for watching.
Old man your knowledge with God given wisdom is a true blessing thank you for taking the time to steer the generation correctly. I've Learned alot and hope you will continue to teach us/me thank you Randy God bless
Great video Randy. I use a different method, but I'm sure yours works very well, or you wouldn't still be using it. I love that feeling when the group size and velocity consistency tighten up at the same time. When that happens, you KNOW, you have a load that's going to hammer!
Only vast amounts of experience allows Randy to take a process which frustrates many handloaders, and structure it into a simple-to-follow process. The most important takeaway for me is one step with only one variable at a time. Thank you Randy!
Thank God Radny is making archives of valuable smithing knowledge. Those of us who will still be shooting fire when laser guns are popular will need this info.
Randy, I have been wondering specifically how you perform your case head measurement technique that you had previously mentioned in other videos, and this video confirmed that for me. This will help me a lot as I start loading for magnum rifle cartridges in the near future. Thanks for all the insight and info and sharing your years of experience honestly and graciously with the world. My only question- Will this technique also work for non belted cases? Thanks again and God bless brother
I learned about this in your videos a few years back and have also adopted this method during my load development. This makes much more sense to me to have something to actually measure then just look at because everyone looks at primes flattening or not and sees something different than the next guy and I feel that’s not reliable Randy’s method is. I got curious about some factory loadings I had around and ran this method on several of them and found that 3 out of 5 types of factory rounds I had were expanding between 6 and 9 ten tho at the case head. I was surprised to see this because I figured a lot of these factory loads would be loaded down just due to legal issues. Anyway just some info I thought I’d share. I like doing test like this and playing with my rifles and seeing what I can learn and figure out I’m always learning something either from randy or just things I get curious about and test here at home.
Hello Randy! Just recently found your channel, and im glad I did. Im interested in your case head pressure measuring technique but i heard you mention the 0.0005" was for the belted magnum case. What safe head expansion value would you deem acceptable for the .30-06 case? Im sure different manufacturers may have a hardier case than others, but i am interested in your response. Thank you!!
All good information but I am surprised that you did not talk about w860 for US869 ball powders. I have been getting maximum velocity with the lowest extreme spreads out of my 28 Nosler using 869 and it has done fabulously. I have heard you many times speak highly of W860 ball powders. I am getting 3200 ft per second out of it shooting a 195 grain bullet.
I've tried RL25 in my 300Wby just see how it would perform, hot weather groups where almost one-hole groups with very low velocity spreads, cold weather performance on the other hand went the opposite direction in a big way. I repeated this test three more times with the same results. Lesson learned move on.
I know i'm opening a can of worms So when you get your rifle load dev from yourself, 1/2 the barrel life is gone after your system with vast variables to get to the std proper load not to mention fine tuning...
What i wouldn't do just to have a smidgen of your knowledge. Will the techniques in this video regarding the measuring of the case head work with standard non magnum ammo Ie. 30 06? Thank you for all the great videos and the excellent information
Hello Randy I was wondering if you have any suggestions on bullet weight and power for a 6.5 Creedmoor to deer hunt at 200 yards and in I would appreciate any help you can give me on this matter and thank you for your time and effort information is greatly appreciated
THANK YOU!! The 300 in a mark V action, just what I've been looking for! Randy, a guy named Larry Willis makes a collet die that squeezes the belted magnum cases back to fit... after a few loadings, the regular sizing die can't squeeze the area just above the belt back to size and the cases won't chamber smoothly, if at all. His website has the details about this collet die. WillyB
We made a video on it some time ago, but thanks for mentioning it. Resizing Belted Magnum cases. The tool may be purchased at larrywillis.com, Innovative Technologies. Thanks for watching
From the Real Gunsmith's Wife: This was first published 4 years ago and it was not that hard to find at the time. We can still find some on occasion. For searching for ANY components, I've found I have more success by typing my search in quotation marks and for sale after what I am looking for. So, for instance, "H1000 for sale" or even "H1000 powder for sale". Granted, still find a lot of "no longer in stock", "out of stock", "no back order" but I am more apt to find what we need by doing the for sale after the component, all in quotes. The other caveat is that I've found some places that say that they have plenty of what we are looking for, but get to check out and they only take Zelle or crypto currency and we don't deal with those, and I've backed out. Emailing for request to pay with card or PayPal and get no response. Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith if the site only accepts Venmo, Zelle, or PayPal then it's a scam site... Any reputable dealer should accept major credit cards. Lot of scammers out there. Be careful.
While we appreciate the desire for us to make/print/sale a reloading manual, not sure when or how to find the time. Perhaps, some day, but not at this time. Thanks for watching.
Reloading books are just a guide if you listen to Randy he does very little from any Reloading manual right down to sizing the case anyone who has reloaded knows all rifles are different and particular on what load works. I have had some tact driving loads for my 270 but after using on game it was back to the drawing board don't get me wrong these killed every thing that I shot at but on deer size they just blew apart like a hollow point no exit at all these bullets were Speer 130 gr btsp
So if I heard correctly, from this very informative video, MAXIMUM powder charge is found and THEN changing to a different primer and possibly deeper seating depth too? I thought that was a no-no safety wise.
Thank you sir. When you mesure case head expantion,it is on virgin brass or used brass??? Do you mesaure yust head of brass or you combined with other signs of pressure like primers or havy bolt lift????Have you any situation when the brass show high presure but the primer or bolt lift is ok??? You did not explain that,when case head show pressure,what is going on with primer??does he show presure??. Sorry on my english righting. Regards from Croatia.
I understand your approach here, and I'm wondering, if we ethically limit our range, say, to 300 or 400 yards...what do we really need our rifle to do? 3-4 inches is an moa out there. Is that enough? The reason I'm asking is, what are the added stresses to the firearm really gaining us in terms of clean kills? Most of us cannot afford to waste barrel life chasing unnecessary precision.
Its something your into or not. The satisfaction of taking a so so shooting gun into a proverbial one hole group shooting gun is just fulfilling to some. Others good enough to hit there target is good enough. I'm like that with some things with other things I'm very picky and anal, monomaniacal about. Shooting 3 shot groups working up one good hand load isn't going to burn your barrel out anytime soon though.
I think if he's repeatedly getting groups down in the 0.3inch range for a sporter weight hunting rifle he's doing something right. But I'm sure you know better 👍
So if working up a load and arriving at a given velocity range that shoots the lowest extreme spread and we then want to adjust seating depth beyond Saami COAL to see if it will improve, should we aim for the same velocity when seating longer or does the whole thing change?
Any change is going to change results. Any good handloading is working up different combos to get the best results, as every combo will have different, even if only slightly, results. Thanks for watching.
Yes, they do. All of the powders he mentioned work great. The H4831 would be better for the lighter 85/87gr bullets. The IMR7828SSC would be ideal for 100 to 120gr bullets and H1000 would work well for 120+gr bullets. This is the trend for all cartridges. The heavier the bullet weight is, the slower the burn rate should be.
Mr Randy have you ever used white river primers? I have been using them because they are easy to find right now. And New to reloading they seem to be ok but haven't compared them to any other yet
Hello Mr. Selby(and Mrs. Selby!), I am new to reloading my own cartridges, and I'm grateful to have come across the wealth of information you present here on your channel. Firstly, thank you! I am currently still in the "getting my feet wet" stages so am focusing on developing loads for my pistol calibers first and foremost. I have realized that I need to get myself a chronograph, so I am saving up for one now. Is the method the same of measuring cases with a .00005" micrometer for both pistol calibers as well as rifle?
Great Info! Randy does the micro reading stand true for non belted cases? As I will assume that in that, I would measure the actual case head of say a .270 or at the base just in front of the head?
Ahead of the extractor groove, belted or non-belted it is the same. In the next 5-6 days a new, more detailed video will be published on our Patreon channel. Subscribe to see it, at patreon.com/therealgunsmith. This video was published 4 years ago there. There will be 4 years of exclusive videos on the channel, plus "bonus" content of photos, etc. We are going to be publishing on YT, a video a month, from 4 years ago, to get more information out to more people. Thanks for watching.
@@TheRealGunsmith Thanks for the info! I will start to document these for the various calibers I have. I am curious since I have several the are bolt and semi auto, will start with the 300 WM and the 338 WM first, thanks again!
Howdy sir, when loading 308 in a barrel shorter then 20 inches do you think the powder should change and if so what powder would you suggest? im gonna be using accurate 2520
It should be fine powder for this, and it will depend on your own particular rifle and other componets, start a bit low and work up. Thanks for watching.
@@briankelly2886 plus TTSX bullets punch way above their weight. Example: 140 grain 7mm’s perform as good or better than a 160 grain 7mm conventional bullets, bonded included.
@@briankelly2886 you bet! They will drill front to back through guts and all. I don’t have to tell you but for any newbies reading this, it’s about being a marksman and hunter. The marksman part of you owes the animal a quick, humane kill. The hunter in us is about harvesting quality meat and being thankful we’ve been given that gift.
Any Reloader powders like R- 22 and up for your .300 Weatherby? I settled on R-22 w/a Fed 215 for my .300 WinMag. years ago. Those measurement practices on the are very interesting! I’d love to hear your thought on case neck tension with regard o accuracy and load development. This is a tremendous episode. Sincere thanks and appreciation!
Hi, I am not reloading yet, but Im watching as much as i can on the sunject. You say that those cases allow one half of a thousandth of case head expansion, is that just for those cases or any rifle case? I'm asking because I would like to know if that would be the same for a 45-70 case...and if not, how do I determine what the maximum safe case head expansion is for a 45-70 case?
Hi Randy I recently found your channel. Truly the best advice ever given on how to load the 300 wby. I shoot a vanguard and my best group with 200g Accubond was .257. I routinely shoot in .4 .6 range. Did not know about measuring the belt will incorporate that into my reloading. Thank you!
Thank you, Mr. Selby. I enjoyed the very informative presentation. I’ve heard some folks say that primer type doesn’t make a difference. Sounds like they’re wrong.
How could it NOT? Everything potentially makes a difference. Case make and sometimes lot...primer make, designation and sometimes lot...bullet make, designation, weight, shape and sometimes lot...powder make, designation, weight and sometimes lot...and bullet seating depth can all make a drastic difference. That's what makes load development so infuriating yet rewarding!
All components, in different configurations, will make a difference, even primer. And every rifle will like a different "diet" than another very frequently. Thanks for watching.
I've been shooting Barnes bullets for years because we had to shoot copper only in CA. I got the last few boxes of 140 gr .280 they made. It shoots .35" groups all day long. Just a run of the mill Remington 700 CDL.
Hello sir, I will be using this advice this winter to reload for my 25-06. I can no longer stand paying $50+ for factory ammo that I cannot get to shoot less than 1-1.25 “. I don’t shoot competition but i hunt, and I like my rifle and ammo to shoot the best it can so I can put a bullet where it needs to be. I have H4831, and IMR 4350 to use with 110gr Nosler AB or either Barnes TSX or TTSX 115 gr. Now hopefully the Barnes shoot nicely but the recommended twist rate is 1-9, when my rifle is 1-10 so do you think they will be ok with my current twist rate?
For this and your other question: I've settled on W760 $ Rem 9 1/2 primers over 45 years ago and find that is still the best choice, with 140 gr. Thanks for watching.
Here's some thoughts with the 30-378 weatherby utilizing a 1in12''twist rate and a 28'' barrel to drive lighter 308's such as a 155 BTHP for different hydrostatic shock and flatter trajectories
Thank you Randy for the content I really do appreciate all of the information and I hope that you know you’re making a difference for a lot of us who are trying to become legitimate handloaders. Do you have any advice on how long to hold the case against the camphor and deburr tool, and does that change neck tension if I have a steeper angle camphor? It sure would be nice to find a video from someone who knows what they’re doing to show the entire process from depriming and cleaning cases all the way to shooting them again. Thank you again for your time and efforts.
Also, Brody, in the coming week, we'll post a more in-depth video on using a micrometer to measure the cases on our Patreon channel: patreon.com/therealgunsmith If you follow us there, you can watch it when it comes up.
Thanks for your video Sir, now I know why I'm so good at it ,you showed me how right. Been watching for some time and really appreciate your time,God Bless
This was previously an exclusive video posted in Oct of 2018 on Patreon, probably filmed in September of 2018. A bit blustering out there this week, but we did have a beautiful, open fall this year. Thanks for watching.
I'll say it again- you are a wealth of knowledge Sir- thank you for sharing with us- I'm slowly getting into reloading and I find all of your content extremely interesting
300 wby is fine, but as a long range comp guy I can say the 300 win Mag is more accurate. Their are reasons the 300 rem Mag has won more 1,000 yard competitions than any other 30 caliber. The 300 wetherby is great just not as good.
Guys always come on here and talk about what they are doing you guys should pay attention. This is an online class free of charge. Great video Randy thanks for your knowledge and expertise.
I've watched this a few times and several other videos you've put out and I have to say thank-you. I've been a reloader for only a short while but I knew I was more of a recipe guy. I'm fortunate to have found your channel and am learning more and more importantly, how and what to measure to safely work up a load.
I truly enjoyed this video. Never even thought about measuring the back of the belt. I'm going to do this with my 7mm magnum. It shoots very well now. But, with your wisdom it can do better! Thank you
Cant thank you enough for all this information. Every time i watch one of your classes yes classes and i think all this info is free. Means alot to alot of people.
Shelby, Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I'm new to reloading and I have gained a lot by watching your videos. Can you or anyone else share a link for a micrometer with the points . Everything im finding has the flat ends. Thanks
I am not sure, you'll have to continue searching. Try by searching for "micrometer with points", using quotation marks, see if that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@wesleykeith1995 Mitutoyo makes a Series 112 "Point Micrometer-No Carbide" mechanical point micrometer with pointed tips on the anvil and spindle to measure small grooves, keyways and other, difficult-to-reach areas.
I am 50 years old and just now getting into reloading, the only powder I could find was 7828 ssc. So I bought about 10lbs of it. I hope I can use the ssc for something.
Concerning the weatherby cartridges and given the factory freebore, is it just best to follow the reloading books as far as seating depth/COAL? I usually load to that however can much be gained by varying seating depth how much should it be done, up to mag length obviously but how short?
I've never followed COAL in the loading books, I seat for best length and try to do so around .020-.030. The loading manuals are "general" and "generic". Thanks for watching.
I get what Randy is saying but this day and time we’re lucky to find primers or particular powder in stock. If I waited for the “best” combos of components I’d never get to shoot 😢. I just like burning some powder rather than none.
Primers are starting to come down on price that tells me they are getting readily available but they are no where in the ballpark price wise of what they were pre-covid. I can remember auction prices were about 26-34$ per thousand I have saw them up at 300$ for a 1000 last sale I was at they are going right around 100$ for a brick I'm glad I'm sitting on several thousands
I’ve never tried to load the nosler accubond LR. Any of you have any tips concerning bullet jump/seating depth with these bullets? I’ll take any and all advice
Best video on this subject on the internet. It's not only your vast knowledge its the way you explain the process. I'm sure that you are tired of hearing this but you really need to write a book. Two reasons off the top of my head are you would be filthy rich and i would have several copies and get off this phone to do my favorite thing, handloading. Thanks mr selby.
Thank you so much. I totally understand where you are coming from. However, I am not a writer. And I am not sure where I would fit it in and still have free time. I still work at a profession I love and take satisfaction from. And filthy rich? That's a joke, it may sell a lot, but not enough to make me rich, let alone filthy rich. We can dream. ;) Thanks for watching.
