Resizing Fired Cases to Reload - The Real Gunsmith 

Thanks for the overwhelming response to this video, as well as our other videos on The Real Gunsmith Channel! We appreciate your comments and questions. Due to the volume of the comments and questions, some which would take some time to answer, we just don’t have the time to respond to them all. However many of the questions will be answered in future videos. Our first priority is to our paying clients. Writing out long answers would take time away from that, and I won’t put them “on hold” to post long answers here. If you have questions about getting gun work done or a custom rifle built, contact us at randyselby@randyscustomrifles.com. I have a wide range of prices for custom rifles so even the “average Joe or Josephine” can get into a custom package, just as accurate as the higher end rifles. For our detractors, we appreciate your difference of opinion, too, but I stand by my decades of experience. To all of you, thanks again for your overwhelming support. Stay tuned! God bless you all. Randy and Cathy

Do you have a video series of your reloading process from start to finish? It would really be a great help for people who are just starting to learn how to do this. This is a great channel!

As a match Rifle shooter and reloader i thank you for your expert reload tips.

You sharing your wealth of knowledge on this subject is a tremendous gift to people like me who want to do things the right way! Thank you!

Thank you for taking the time to share the knowledge and wisdom you have acquired over many years. You revealed techniques which happened to be the first time I have heard it explained, and you did it so clearly and in such manner that there could be no other way to properly accomplish a correct result. Again I thank you sincerely.

This video is correct if the case is only to be fired in the same rifle every time. If there is a chance that the reloaded ammo will be fired in another firearm then full length resized cases will ensure proper feeding.

I'm really liking your videos. Very informative. Half way through I was going to ask about neck sizing then you explained it better than I've ever heard. Great work.

You make total sense ! I love your videos ! You’re a huge asset to the gun community !

After hearing your instructions on the proper way to size brass I feel like throwing away my reloads and start over. Definitely will remember what you said and will follow.

Like your title say's. "The Real Gunsmith" Funny how I've never heard any other demos mention this method. I always tested my resized shells in the gun before proceeding to load. I start snug and adjust accordingly. Bravo. I just mentioned to a fellow who had problems chambering tight shells and was talking head space. I suggested , try your cases in the gun first before you reload. Dial down if to tight. Yes sir you be right. I caught on years ago when I was popping the heals off of 30/30 loads. Thank-You.

I couldn’t agree more. There is so much for a newcomer and not so new to learn, for others could you suggest a couple good books that cover the best aspects to follow. My father had a lot of books that I read! For those of you that are relatively new to Loading..stick with it, it’s a great hobby!

Wow. Case rolling on a smooth flat surface to determine bullet wobble. Brilliant. ! I had a case so off that the round wouldn't chamber. (My fault, I hurried the seating on this one round, bent the neck askew). Telltale sign was a scrape on one side of bullet. I always chamber (safely) every hunting round before a hunt. You might be the only Patreon sight I sub to! Great 👍 stuff!

Mr. Selby, did you know Jim Carmichael? I used his books to learn to reload is why I ask, decades ago. Thank you for your efforts. Gerald.

It is a good thing that fan is not anoying. I liked the rest of the video.

What surprises me is that more folk don't know these things. Almost anyone that reloads the .303 British for a Lee Enfield rifle learns to use similar techniques if they want more than 3 reloads out of a case. I have got dozens without issues. Same for the 7 x 57 I used to have; after 20-odd reloads the cases were still within length tolerances and functioning perfectly.

I thank God I found your channel you are a awesome gunsmith

This is a great video. What would be awesome would be a reloading video that gives us a visual demonstration of what mistakes he says people make followed up by what to actually do correctly.

thank you for great vid watched them all very competent person wish you a long life thanks from Australia

I can watch this video over and over again. Straight up, great video, and when I realised exactly what you explained, a new understanding started to open up! Loading by feel, to suit the firearm you are doing it for, is as close as you can get to the custom built no tolerance actions people pay thousands for, than I can anyway with a limited budge.. Thanks mate.

Awesome video thanks

What is the best neck die , and what is the proper length for a Winchester short mag to start with , I have a model 70 shadow Winchester that can't even get close to setting the bullet even close to the rifling

The Real Gunsmith thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with is. My question is even after firing cases twice (only neck sizing) I now want to set up my full length bushing die. Trouble is even after removing the firing pin assembly I chamber those twice fired cartridges and there still is absolutely no bolt resistance for me to adjust the die with. This is the first time I have encountered this. Is the solution to use a head space gauge now? .270 Sako using Sako brass. Greetings from South Africa!

I always neck size the cases for a rifle for as long as I can then check for fit, then if needed full length resize. I found by doing so I get a longer case life that way, full length resizing shortens case life . I have cases 10 plus years old that I have done this way with no problems in my 7 mm Magnum. " Experts" say a 7 mm Mag case is only good for 3-4 reloads , well thats not true if done properly I've got 8 - 10 reloads sometimes more.

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge 👍👍

I saw a guy from Cabela's saying that you should screw the die DOWN an additional quarter turn after the shell holder contacts the die. Doesn't make sense.

I am new to reloading. I have some brass fired from my rifle and I plan on sizing the neck only on those, but to build my inventory I bought once fired brass on line. You said not to full length size brass that it could cause head separation. Should I not full size the once fired brass I bought? Everything im reading says if it wasnt fired from your rifle, resize the whole thing.

I am in complete agreement with this theory regarding Headspace and sizing. My problem is that I don't understand why some cases (neck's) don't seem to be true to round off centerline . What kind of Dies will keep this from happenning ? I own all RCBS dies, they are hand me downs from my Pa. I mostly reload .308 . Sir, am I not sizing down deep enough ? Or might I need new dies, Better dies ? I notice this when polishing more tarnished brass, (or brass I have marked with a sharpie) in a cordless drill with steel wool. some brass spins true, some necks seem off centerline . ( Happiness - is having lots of de-primed, sized, case length checked, and polished and primed brass on hand ready for powder, seating, and crimping ! ) ; ) I Enjoy you're sharing of your acquired knowledge !

I would like to get into reloading. Could you do a video of you actually resizing a case .and show exactly what you're looking for and what not to do thank you

Randy, take a piece of bailing wire and work it back and forth until it heads up and breaks. Show this on the video, as a demonstration. This would illustrate what it is to over work metal.

Hi Randy. In watching this video one subject that's related is the difference in Die Manufacturers and shell Holders. For example RCBS and Hornady. People need to understand you can't mix shell holders with the different Dies. Hornady calls for a #1 shell holder where RCBS calls for a #3 on the 30-06. Same as the 270 winchester and others. Have you seen the guy on You tube that's trying to debunk and claim you are lying here on you tube. He's from some Long range Shooting forum I think. i gave him a peice of my mind. Also I wanted to let you know that I got 3204 fps on my 270 Winchester with the 145eldx bullets last week. Deviation was single digit. Goup was .325 sub moa and from 3207,3203 and 3200 fps. That was with Reloader 22. Last year I got 3177 out of it so this year I bumped it up 1 full grain. Still .7 grains down from max load as the book claims and no pressure signs. Like you I've been load developing for over 50+ years on Dozens of calibers. I've done Long Range shooting as well as competition silouhette shooting. Lots of fun. Any way thank you for the fantastic information on loading. I intend to pass it on to as many people as possible.

what about reloading for a semi automatic? how do you know the perfect shoulder?

"You sure do have a headspace problem, it isn't your rifle, it's you" 😂. Love it

3:53 Exactly! I used to be a member of a Marlin website I will not disclose the name, and they was saying how they get about 7 firings per rifle case. When I told them I have cases with over 100 firings, I was trolled by the site mod and his fanboys. I figured if they weren't interested in relaying useful information, I didn't need to be there.

This is the best description of how to adjust sizing die that I have seen.Thanks for sharing this.

The only way you're going to get repeatable consistent resizing is by using a headspace comparator so that you know exactly how far you're pushing the shoulder back and you can tell if you're getting close to a case head separation because you'll start seeing a light line show up right above the case head on you brass. Also if you hunt with a gas gun like I do at times only way to ensure function in the field is you have to push that shoulder back a little further then what you can get away with in a bolt gun but you still don't want to oversize your brass because you're going to shorten the life span of that brass like you mentioned. I get what you're saying on some of this but consistency is king with handloading in order to make good ammo and if I can have a way to measure my brass to ensure all of it is being resized the exact same regardless if it's competition or hunting ammo I can't see a single negative in that. It also allows people who are new to reloading know they're doing it right because they're not going by feel or eye they can physically measure it...

Sir there’s a serious need for your first hand knowledge of this trade of bullet smithing if you will. Hope you keep them coming it’s needed .

Thanks for sharing Randy. Summed up well. We sure can over complicate things with a whole handful of tools for measuring, when the chamber fit/bolt cycling, is the best tool there is. Cheers mate.

This is the kinda guy I could set at a table with a bottle of whiskey and listen and learn for hours

THIS IS FOR BOLT ACTION GUNS ONLY. This is not kosher for semi auto guns.

Subscribed for this very reason....CLARITY AND WISDOM FROM DECADES OF EXPERIENCE IN MULTIPLE CALIBERS..... THANK YOU.

Outstanding! I'd like to see you do a video in your shop...58 years of collecting gear, must be something to see!

Good intentions I'm sure though I would prob inform viewers to remove the ejector and firing pin not to get any false readings, one other issue is brass spring back those who don't anneal every firing or so I've sized brass back 2thou that's spring back to the same measurement after 24hrs so if someone only sizes brass 1thou to fit their chamber that's an issue waiting to happen

I know you commented on this but how could a fire formed case in the same rifle not be supported on he body as good as a full length resized when the case is blow out to the chamber walls at 60000 psi. If your chamber isn’t perfect your dies won’t correct so why can’t you explain a better answer than it’s not supported. Your more experienced than me so so why? Thanks , just want your valued opinion!

This has been a very helpful video. It was humbling to realize I have only been a reloader the past few years and not a handloader. Please keep the knowledge coming. I would be really interested in hearing some handloading (or in my case reloading), rifle building, and long range shooting advice for magnum medium and big bore rifles. I know they are not that relevant in North America but I’ve read too many White Hunter adventure stories and I’ve heard plenty of gunshow and online wisdom/tall tales to justify the usage for something like a .375 H&H on most big game under certain circumstances. Be great to hear what you think. If not, thanks for another informative video.

sir you are a wealth of information can't get enough of your videos fantastic job

Redding and RCBS now make different shell holder heights to do exactly what is described here. That way its more precise than screwing the die up and down by who knows how much. Bottom the die on the +0.010 shell holder, and work down from there in 2thou increments.

where were u 20 years ago when i had to learn all this the hard way. you know its not that you know how to do it the right way thats impresive, its your understanding of why its the right way thats impressive and very rair.

Thanks for your knowledge of a lifetime! I recently began reloads on a 7mmRemMag, after 30 rounds, I struggled to get under 1 inch groups. Many fliers...(it kicks like a mule, real light gun). I want to try out your method with my brass, and see if accuracy can be improved. I'd suppose there's no reason to buy a neck sizer now. I was using Nosler virgin ready to load brass. Years ago I worked at Nosler for a while, extruding jackets for many of their ballistic tips, e-tip, and partition, REALLY interesting job. One thing I was blown away by was constantly randomly checking the concentricity of the jackets, which would reduce accuracy much in a way like the neck of a case being misaligned to the body.

Why wouldn’t a fire formed case from the same rifle that was only necked size be as accurate as a full length case done the way you describe it. Just a question you could answer? Thanks,I enjoy your viedos. Buster.

I’m so glad your doing this. I learn so much from you. I’ve been reloading for 20 years. I learn so many things from you. Thank you

This is great info for target shooters hunters who will be using only thier ammo in only one rifle. I load the same 5.56 ammo for several AR15's I own and if a fellow shooter needs ammo they can expect someone to lend them some. So for these reasons and others I full length size everything, all the time. The same goes for hunting. I'll intentionally carry the same caliber of rifle as my hunting partners, just so I can lend them or they me a couple rounds if need be. At 60, I've loaded and fired a couple hundred thousand rounds and had only one case head separation, in an old .303 British Enfield. Brass is cheap if not free from local ranges, so if a piece of brass has any deformity or wear that I can detect it becomes scrap, and I normally scrap a bucket full every year. Maybe I'm just lucky. I don't care for neck sizing either. I've never found any benefit in accuracy with it. Thanks! JMOFWIW

I’ve got cases in 22/250 that have over 20 firings on them, every time I chamber one I feel that slight snugness he was talking about, and I do not tumble the brass, once brass has been fired, the inside is cultured.

I was so proud of my neck sizing die . As you said I rolled that round on a flat surface and saw the wobble . Great lesson!

I've been aware of the issues of shoulder depth and have neck sized with that in mind, but you have explained this in a way that sets me straight. Thank you Randy for this series of videos and sharing your extensive knowledge. After all, knowledge is the greatest gift you can ever give to another human being and becomes a true legacy to be remembered when you are gone. By the way, I'm just down the road on the other side of BB Reservoir from you. I'll keep an eye out for you around town and thank you proper if we meet.

Well done sir. That was the most clear, concise, easy to understand instruction on the proper way to set up a full length die that I’ve ever heard. Got a sub from me.

Sir you have earned a couple of subscribers. Keep it up I enjoy watching and listening to someone so passionate and knowledgeable of their work. Thank you!

Randy, another excellent video. Who could argue with common sense. I now understand why I have had case head separation and I wondered why the head space problem happened. It is (was) my mis-guided reloading practices I will follow your guidelines and build improved handloads. Thanks and keep these excellent videos coming..

Is this the same for lever action rifles like a 94ae in 356 winchester ?

Ive always used a neck sizing die for fired cases on a specific rifle. with the exception of lever actions and semi autos, those I'll full length size every time.

So just to be correct....die in till it touches the holder back off 1/4 turn, lube and run through die then try it in my chamber, adjust die in further lube and size again until it fits in the chamber with a slight resistance when the bolt is approximately 2/3 closed? Gosh I love your videos, nothing speaks like experience. Excellent video!

My dad and uncle referred to that slight bolt tightness as crush. Been setting my dies up like that for a long time. But, your explanation gives it meaning. Thank you.

This video is amazing. Wow I need more of these!! I wish you were my neighbor!!!

Thanks for the info, Randy. I've spent a small fortune on gizmos chasing accuracy. Sometimes to no avail. The headspace issue and case life has been a major issue. Thanks, again, for clearing up this important point.

It’s about time somebody cleared the muddy waters about Reloading! Thanks

Another great informative video. Thanks Randy for sharing your knowledge.

There is no "cam over" how my full length die is adjusted. They do not make contact. My shoulder gets bumped back .002". Took multiple attempts to get this right. But if im hearing you correctly, that is too much? I watched a video i believe was Mr. Cortina. The video stated that primer Ignition needed that .002". Legit question im asking as im new to reloading. What im currently loading for is unique. A single shot breech loader so i have no bolt clearance to contend with. I can see it sits flat though.

If you soot the case over a candlelight, it will show you how fare it goes up into the die. It takes all the guess work out of it.

Im a new reloader .. looks like i F up my fired brasses 😂 after watching this. I followed RCBS instructions and now my case shoulders are way down ..

Thanks for the great explanation. I’m new to reloading and appreciate all your expertise. I tried to set my die for my pre 64 model 70 in 30-06. In order to feel any pressure with the bolt 2/3 down when closing, I’m about 1 turn out from the die touching the shell holder. Is it possible that I could need to be that far out? Thanks

3:49 I dunno about that example... with a H&H derived case like the 300 Win Mag, case head separation occurs much faster due to the belt and the case not long enough to be close to the shoulders. That's why Peterson came out with the Long version of cases with the 375 H&H as a parent case.

Best info anywhesre on neck vs full lenth sizing. I handload and knew each one but not the whys. Very,very valuable info. Thank you so much.

Hello Mr. Selby I have come to the conclusion that I need to stop reloading and watch the rest of your videos before i waste any more components. Just to recap 1, use a micrometer to measure case head for pressure signs 2, adjust die to fit the brass to the chamber (gun specific) 3, try different bullets to attain accuracy and last but not least I have bin trying to come up with a respectably accurate load for my 30 06 using 165grn accubonds and just cant get them to shoot any good are these bullets hard to load for? Thank you for all the great information truly enjoy your video's

Well, 4 different experts and now 4 different opinions on how to size brass. Actually 5 if you count the experts who wrote or contributed in hand loading manuals and die manufacturers..

Really appreciate you sharing your experience. Never to late. to learn. Thanks .

I'm going to steal that line of yours...You've got the Headspace problem not your rifle..thanks for the knowledge!

Recently i was on a guided elk hunt in Wy and the outfitter let me use a rifle that your company built. I cannot believe how perfect of a rifle that was, honestly i enjoyed shooting the custom rifle more than shooting the elk. Ok to be honest my first impression of you is your kind of pompous, and you and only you know how to do something and everyone else on this subject is idiots that's to include all the folks that wrote those reloading books and made those dies. However after experiencing first hand the quality and craftsmanship of your work. I apologize for being an idiot. 😀

Wow! Better review my procedures. Thanks much Randy,

The Real Gunsmith thank you for for great videos. I know you can only fit in so much information in short video and this one being only introduction have not touch on all other aspects of reloading. I was hoping that you might be able to do advance video for very accurate benchrest shooting and cover everything from start to finished round. Perhaps you might do full presentation by actually doing the whole process that way it will be also more helpful for other members who are just starting the art of hand loading. It will be great benefit for everyone and especially for beginners to learn good habits from day one. Thank you very much and I'm looking forward to new videos 🤗👌👍

wish I could pick at you about 220 swift an 225 win. which I own both why was there so much controversy over these two rounds.

I've watched a lot of this guy's great informative videos but he has a disdain for people.

I was doing it wrong for over 30 years because I went by what was written on the rcbs die instructions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and thank you for being a great American!

I neck size only the first two reloads until I feel to much resistance chambering then bump the shoulder back the minimum amount

Randy, many informative videos of yours have given me valuable information about the differences in the accuracy world of a rifle. Thank you!

If your firing these rounds in the same bolt action rifle that they were fired in, this is great advise. You could get a life time of “reloads” sizing brass for the same rifle using your method. RCBS used to make neck sizing only dies back in the day, I don’t know if they still do. However, if your reloading for a semi automatic rifle, you’ll need to full length size more than as you describe. Example, the M1 may even need a “small base” resizing die to properly feed and chamber.

Thank you. Another good video with clear presentation, truth, logic and simple guidance. As a carpenter and generally, I like to keep things honest, simple and to the point. I was told during my JNCO course (several decades ago) that the first rule of instruction is ‘tell the truth’. It can require more work at the start, to get your facts right, but is always the better (and easier) way to go.

This is exactly why I only neck size only in my bolt rifles. The less the brass is worked, the longer it lasts before the case neck cracks.

I am going into reloading rifle cartridges soon. I've done shotshells for over 20 years without a misfire. I am going to use your advice from your videos from here on in. I can learn from my mistakes but just as soon learn from others reps as a safe shortcut.

I've bought a set of horneday dies and rcbs dies and still haven't had a set of dies get bumped back

The average shooter learns by seeing and by doing not by listening. Men do not learn much by listening.

2 or 3 thousandths is not going to cause case separation. I'm sorry but you're wrong bud.

Hi Randy. You quickly became one of my favorite channels online. I love talking to experience rather than theory. I do have one question about your load development and chronographing it. Where i work, there, there are a few engineers that are no longer allowed to talk to me until they prove that they physically measured something. Could care less if it is with a grade school ruler, until they physically measure something, they aren't allowed to talk to me anymore. So with that said, on working out my process for developing loads, I'm of the mind that math is great, until you leave the lab, then life happens. Like you were saying in another video about how most people don't take elevation and air density into their calculations. So how do you verify that your math at 100/200/500 yards is right? meaning the math may say this bullet should be moving at 2200fps at 300 yards, but do you actually measure it? Common sense tells me you should be able to calculate velocity based on bullet drop at distance, but without thinking hard i can come up with half a dozen variables (up to and including rotation of the earth and the angle you shot relative to the equator) that could affect bullet drop and blow your math, How do you do it?

Dang man, I probably need to check my dies...lol but what's an autoloader to do tho I do have a helping of bolt actions. Great Stuff in each and every video, thanks for sharing

What happens when your brass goes back in your chamber and closes easily before you even resize? That’s what happens with most of the brass shot in my 6.5 CM.

If it’s done the way you’re describing is it safe for me to reload fired cases for my gun and then fire those cases in a different Gun like you can when doing a full factory type resize?

Appreciate you sharing this information. Excellent videos! Thank you!!!

I realized years ago I had a "headspace" issue in my head. Randy is right. I learned this method the hard way, been shooting 7/16" groups since

Hey Randy.... Thank you for your Extreme Knowledge and sharing it with us !! I've only been hand loading for 2 1/2 years now. However, I've been doing that exact method for my bolt guns as you described with the die adjustment and I use the Redding Instant Indicator for all rifle calibers I load, to help with my consistency on resizing. (13 calibers). I'm using the Redding T-7 press. Man....after hearing you mention your Absolute Expert ways for precision loading. I feel a lot more confident of my precision hand loads! All has been going perfectly. Really Appreciate "your" time to help us out. Love your Videos! Thanks again. Scott

Sir, I’ve been loading ammunition for 40 years and very much appreciate this particular video and your conversation concerning proper loading ,I see a few of the errors of my way and I very much appreciate the knowledge that you’ve given many of us to help us Properly load our own ammunition to get the most out of our particular rifles, I thank you👍

I'm new to hand loading. Will be reloading 7mm rem mag. I understand resizing once fired brass and minimizing the shoulder "bump" back to just barely fit my particular chamber. What what about the diameter of the body of the brass between base and shoulder when full length resizing? Is there a way to minimize that size to perfectly fit my chamber? Or does the resizing die have a standard diameter for all 7mm rem mag?

The answer is to full size it and then chamber to sew if it's snug ?