Complete RUNNING Fuel System Setup on our LS Swap Camaro 

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Thanks! 👍

Appreciate that!

Glad it was helpful! A lot of this was a mystery until we dove into it too!

Love the push lok stuff...really easy to work with. Thanks for the feedback!

A tip : you can watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.

@Muhammad Jayce Yup, have been using flixzone for since december myself :D

@Muhammad Jayce yup, I've been watching on flixzone for months myself :D

@Muhammad Jayce Definitely, have been watching on Flixzone for months myself :)

Awesome! Thank you!

Videos are the same as any other project...takes 3x as long to make it as you think

2nd gen f-bodies rock….all of em’ from ‘70 all the way to ‘81……although the small window ‘70 to ‘74s are preferred you can always clone a split bumper out of a late 70’s version relatively easy……i used to have a ‘77 camaro 305/th350 car back in the 90’s…..if i didnt live in comiefornia and had these strict ass emmision/smog laws id probably still own it…..here in CA. ‘75 and older is smog exempt and are like gold around here….even a stripped/rusted out shell will fetch you close to $10k pending on the make and model…..back in 1998 i bought the ‘74 nova in my profile pic for $1500…..26 years and 6 engines later it now has a LSA super charged 370” motor that I am currently building into a 408…..and before this plandemic corn pop madness back in 2018 i purchased my ‘73 c/10 swb fleet for a steal at $3500… granted it was a 6cyl granny 4spd sm465 truck that was in shambles and incomplete (non running) had a buckled hood ,sagging doors, and chapped fenders…….within a week of getting it home i had it LS swapped with a 3000 stalled th350 and it was a certified ripper….fast foward within a month of that i replaced the doors, hood, and fenders with brand new pieces and prepped the truck for final minor ding’s and other misc bodywork, ………some time in late 2020 when all the inflation was happening i bought and installed a terminator x system and a vortech v-3 sci centrifugal supercharger…..now with 3.73 rear gears and a small pulley on the supercharger the truck is super duper fast considering what it is and the simplicity of it….the body work and prep is complete and is currently sitting in all white primer…..my 15yr old son got his driving permit and talked me and his mother into purchasing him a ‘67 mustang coupe 289 C code car….so the c/10 got put on hold while i dial in this mustang and make it safe and dependable for him, i just recently got done adding a front power disc brake conversion on it and now im just fixing minor leaks and other misc tiny things on it…not to mention im in the middle of adding an ACES killshot efi system on it that way i dont get a call early in the morning or late at night talking about i cant get my car started, i think it may be flooded😂😂😂…nope not havin it…also picked up a ‘96 roller motor 302 out of an OJ bronco that we are building up for when he graduates from school and that 200hp 289….thats if he is redponsible and doesnt get into any trouble with speeding tickets and stuff of that nature….and the beauty of it is we can swap the EFI off of the 289 right onto the 302 when its time….we already got the short block for the 302 sorted out with flat top pistons that have a slightly higher compression hieght and a set of aluminum heads with 58cc combustion chambers that way we will be taking that 302 from 8.5:1 compression to a hair over 10:1….basically shooting for a hair over 300whp

Most welcome! Appreciate the feedback and hope it was helpful.

Sound cool! These 2nd gen f-body’s move well with an ls swap

Still have it and still working on it

Appreciate it!

I don't have 1st hand experience with this on an LS swap, but from my understanding, the vette regulator can only flow so much volume before you start losing consistent fuel pressure. It also keeps the pressure constant, whereas the stock GM return style regulator makes the fuel pressure lower at high vacuum situations (like idle) and raises pressure when there's low vacuum (full throttle). Most people doing these kinds of turbo setups are using a return style system with an aftermarket regulator that raises fuel pressure with boost. That way it's easier to meet the high fuel demand at high boost pressure. Fuel injectors can only pulse so much, and raising pressure with boost allows you to get more fuel out of them before maxing them out.

It's debatable on the fuel line...I would not use any rubber lines originally on the car because they were only made for a carbureted system (under suction for most of the run, and only 7-12 lbs after the pump). You could get away with using the hard line, as long as you had all the appropriate fittings and fuel injection hose made for high pressure connected properly to it.

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We'll have a video about the electrical on the car sometime...here's a quick overview though: -The fuse box and harness run to the components that it is labeled for -- mainly the chassis stuff like lights, etc. On your car, this would be the stock fuse block. Only reason we have a new one is ours was missing. -We used the stock 5.3 engine harness from the suburban but thinned it out. It has it's own mini fuse/relay box under the hood that we built. 4 circuits and 2 relays built according to lt1swap.com -The car also has a trunk mounted battery with a cutoff switch, so we have a main breaker in the back AND a solenoid for the big cable to the starter for extra safety. The main power lug for the whole car (feeds the chassis fuse block AND the underhood fuse block for the engine harness) is the big terminal on the alternator. You could easily go much simpler. Leave everything on your car as is, and just add the underhood fuse block for the engine harness. The only reason our build is so complicated is the lack of wiring to start with + the trunk mounted battery. Some reading on lt1swap.com will explain the underhood fuse block.

Don't know why youtube crossed out some of the text up there...

This swap is a drive by cable LM7, so I just used the stock setup from the suburban and adapted it to the stock Camaro gas pedal. We're working on another swap in a c10 that's drive by wire, and we got a pedal out of a junkyard truck, bolt on bracket, and used tac module and it's all working well.

Mounts are trans-dapt 4203 -- they came with all the bolts plus new clamshells and worked with our headers. Accessories are stock truck stuff from a suburban (donor for the drivetrain), but we wanted to add a/c so we used ICT billet kit 335-551494X-3 to high mount the compressor, otherwise it would have hit the frame. Without a/c we could have used 100% stock from the suburban. Every thing else fit. With this setup, I don't think the alternator would fit under a stock hood (we have a pretty tall cowl hood). The power steering pump is close, but it's good.

@@BLVCKFLAGD Man Thank you so much for the detailed reply! Im just getting started on a 1980 z28 LS swap. Your vids are Great! Thanks again!

@@jonalbright4033 no problem. happy to help

It's been on there for over 3 years with zero issues. The hose itself is pretty stout...much more substantial than the rubber fuel injection hose you'd get at a parts store. Fittings are nice and tight with no leaks. They don't budge unless you cut them out.

I'm using the stock truck stuff. Depending on the motor mounts it may or may not work for you. Alternator probably wouldn't fit if I didn't have a cowl hood. There are smaller parts store pulleys you can get for the power steering pump if frame clearance is an issue.

No. When I did mine, I didn't want to run 2 fuel lines the length of the car, which is why I'm running the corvette filter/regulator. Essentially I'm not using the stock regulator on the fuel rail and the return is capped. You can run your return style rails in the stock configuration with the built in regulator. You'll just need to run that return line all the way back to the tank.

Yes. They're not needed anymore and the corvette filter/regulator at the tank doesn't reference vacuum.

Since your ranger is already fuel injected, just use an in-tank pump. I would guess the stock pump won't flow enough so just swap it out for one that will. It will probably work with the stock pickup and wiring with little or no modification.

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The car came with the hood, but the biggest clearance issue was the stock location of the alternator. I had to do some trimming for the hood to close. I'm sure there's other options that mount the accessories lower though.

Fuel gauge isn't hooked up yet in this video, just bare minimum for fire up. We'll have a wiring specific video some time soon.

Manny Solis send me an email michael@blvckflagd.com

Cheap ebay chevy truck cold air intake...there's a bunch of them that are all the same, but they come with the tubing, elbows, clamps, box, and filter cheaper than you can get them all anywhere else.

The car has a pretty tall cowl hood on it. The alternator is the things that sticks up the most. The engine mounts we used put the engine pretty low and back, but there's still not much clearance at all.

@@BLVCKFLAGD ls1 intake clears stock hood, and a alternator relocation bracket will get the alt. down.

I don't know. It was in the care when we got it.

@@BLVCKFLAGD one more question what headers did you go with ?

@@troydavis3065 I got lucky and found some discontinued stainless headers on the Holley website. Marked down to $79 from over $1k originally. They regularly have good stuff marked way down.

@@BLVCKFLAGD damn I been looking without trying to spend 500+

Good quote...true.