Love what you are doing! Keep it up :) So much potential for that design. A way to shorten or lengthen the chassi to make it work with different types of bodys and a way to change parts so that it could be either AWD, RWD of FWD but all with the same platform would be killer.
recently i watched a video from greatscott on ESCs. having a relatively bad low end is pretty normal with most ESCs, he "fixed" it by using an open source ESC, but that would be waaay too huge for this build and also too expensive. anyway, i really enjoyed this video!
I really enjoy the work you're doing it's all based off of RC stuff that I used to be in just a little tip for you as far as the motor and speed controller go. i suggest look into a sensored system. That will truly smooth out your performance issues with your breast the system. When I used to race that's all I used to race with was a sensored system
I'm glad your enjoying the videos. A sensored brushless motor would be great, though I'm not sure if they are available in this size. I'll have to do a bit of searching, otherwise I might try out some brushed motors.
Make It RC i was thinking that as well. brushed motor work like in all your other vid. lets face it the brushless would be fun on a big area like a gym. ha ha
agree FK-130 FK-180 size about right. you might want to pick up a 1/24 scale Subotech/GPtoys car/chassis because of drive train configuration and placement of a pair of 14500 lithium ion cells snapping into the sides for a 2S configuration, they're very tidy. the other config I'd like to see is something motor+pinion>counter gear into counter gear... then small tooth belt driven front+rear diffs to toss away the center shaft bevel gear issues. once set up it'd sure run fast and smooth! it could be possible to integrate the reduction into the front or rear diff casing (in front ahead of the axle, so nothing is in the way of the belt). one of the fastest oval or dirt oval cars back when was the "Dominator", motor+reduction into direct belt drive and no diffs at all, it just did it's thing with weight transfer, battery mounted to the "wrong" (right) side of the chassis for traction to outside wheels (turning left) as the insides went light... a lot like a live axle go cart doesn't need a diff when the front caster is doing the same type action (inner tire lifting). a very simple live axle pan car could be set up to do like a go cart does too by modifying a 1/24 (4") slot car chassis front end/beam for steering. not scale but it'd perform, let that inside rear tire lift 1-2 mm when its cornering.
I already acnowledged it makes no difference from that point onwards. If he really succeeded in softening the suspension by shortening the springs then the only logical reason for it was lessening the preload.
During my experiment with a custom 1/24 rc car I found that micro brushless motors vibrate a lot. I tried 3 different ones and had the same poor results. I switched to a simpler and inexpensive brushed motor and all drivetrain problems disappeared.
I will probable end up doing so, though there are some little things I'd like to improve before releasing. Also my main focus at the moment is getting the FFR SC1 released, but probable sometime after that I can upload these files as well.
Probable at some point. Right now the focus is on getting the FFR SC1 released, but at some point I'd like to work out the bugs and get this chassis posted as well.
At first i would say that the video is very nice. But i think for car its important to take rubber tyres for more grip because its the only conncetion from the car to the ground.
