why do then need to be stopped? its a great quality built machine at a great price, and all 3d printers are open source. It is like a makerbot but not the same boards /firmware if thats what your tring to imply. Im happy with it.
Right abs 230°c' pla 210°c max or get strings and sagging and your printing way to fast 50mms extrusion max is best as you've already worn out your linear bearings
I have this printer, purchased from an ebay seller. It is a very well built printer and has printed 100+ hours for me in PLAand ABS. Since it was my first 3d printer the learning curve was a bit high. After 100-200 hours, I have my first problem I am unsure how to fix. The x axis limit switch gets hit and led turns on, however the motor keeps trying to move further and grinds (terrible noise). I've replaced the limit switch but a new one does the same thing. Not really sure what to try. Not sure where to get support.
Don't mean to double post but how do you get your builds to not curl up and stay on the heat pad? Also what kind of blue tape is that? When I got it I took off the blue tape thinking you were supposed to.
Hi. In this print I used the provided blue tape. I think it was the 3M. If you are printing with PLA you should not heat the bed if you are using blue tape. With ABS you should not use blue tape at all. Heating the blue tape can reduce the stickiness to the build platform. Now I replaced the Tape with an glas plate which I heat up to about 65°C, it sticks well even without raft.
MasterFX2000 I tried switching to Makerware but I find for what ever reason my builds don't stick at all to the platform. I have far more success printing in Replicator but the grinding sound really bugs me and makes me not want to print. What are your settings for Makerware? Also, having a thin glass plate on top of your build platform doesn't mess up your printer?
warhawk009 Why souldt it mess my printer? The Glass plate is about 1mm thcik from a cheap frameless picture frame (anto reflex). Normally I'm using the default PLA setting in Makerware (PLA, 230 °C, 70mm/s).
Tested this printer a couple months ago for our store. It came broken, the dual nozzles are at different heights, the chassis screws are dug into the wood. The extruder retracts the filament when it's suppose to extrude. Last but not least a customer support that are full of excuses and lies. Buy at your own risk 1/10
I'm sorry about that. I can only speak for me and two friends of mine, who bought exactly this printer after I received mine. Both friends didn't have any problems. Printer was well packaged and printed without any problems out of the box. Of cause I informed myselft before I bought it, and on amazon the Reviews looked pretty ok for me. So in my opinion you had hard luck. Maybe you didn't buy the printer directly from the manufacturer like me?!
Kenneth, I haven't tested my 3D printer yet to see if it works as I'm waiting on customer service to respond to some of my questions. So far I can tell that the two nozzles of the extruder are uneven. Were you able to figure out how to adjust them? And did you ever get your 3D printer to work? Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated as I'm a total novice to 3D printing and I really need to make the one I purchased work for me.
Mekt_Ranzz The printer is on my shelf, and i have not tested it since it broke down on me on the test print.. Im only going to speak on my own behalf, and i honestly dont know if it's a good printer because it has never worked for me. Since this machine never worked for me, and i paid them a total of 1400$ including the filament im not happy. They managed to pack 2 empty boxes of filament in there in addition to a broken 3d printer. I asked Mr Wahmo lau which is their sales manager why he put 2 empty boxes of filament with my shipment which i had paid for.. this was my answer... ::: (That are purposely put it, in order to avoid medium-voltage bad product in the mailing process, we must box saturated, so I put the two empty.) God knows what he means by this... I asked him why their filament is not vacuum packed... (Yes, we have no vacuum, because this product is not high to the requirement of vacuum, we has been a vacuum before, but this makes no sense, this kind of material will not be oxidation, that's pretty appearance, if the customer requirements specification can we vacuum, generally we are sealed, may have in transit.) I ask him why the screws on the chassis is tightened so hard that they broke the plywood chassis.. (Because the screw is the adjustable screw, can be set, to achieve the goal of the level.) I ask him why the extruder retracts the filament instead of extruding, which pretty much means it goes in reverse when it's suppose to go forward, and this answer just made me want to hit him over the head with the damn machine... (Please look at the instructions, whether your improper operation, because we have never met can't work, because we have quality certification testing machine, if can't use.) All in all good luck with your customer service, i hope you get better luck then i did.. If i didn't feel so robbed i would see the humor in this..
Kenneth Meyer Kenneth, thanks for your response. I had many of the problems you did, and even though customer service for my 3D printer was hard to make sense of due the language barrier, I got my machine to work. I can't offer any advice about the plywood chassis, but if it really doesn't affect the operation of the machinery inside, I wouldn't worry too much about it as, at the very worst, it sounds like a cosmetic issue. However, in regards to the extruder, I had the same two problems you did; namely, the mismatched levels of the two extruder guns (the heating elements) and the kick-back of the filament. I wrote to customer service and they were very helpful by providing, at my request, a video on how to open up the extruder. It's actually a piece of cake and it made all the difference in the world. For each of the extruders, at the front where the fans are located, there are two screws at the bottom. My extruder fans are square. You have to use a hexagonal "L" wrench to remove them, but I forget the size. After the rather longish screws are out, you remove the fans. Behind them there will be a gear that controls how the filament is led into the heating elements. Just above them, you'll see a little place to insert the L wrench. Screwing this in or out tightens the grip on the extruder so that you can raise or lower it. This is how you adjust the extruder height to match the other one. Keep in mind though that I was advised not to change it unless I intended to use two filament colors as most of the time I will only be using one. It turns out that that is entirely true. As for the extruder running in reverse, my filament, during the test phase, flowed through quite well and everything was working fine. But as soon as I started trying to print something, the extruder started going "click, click, click", as if it was trying to kick the filament back out the way it came in. I tried to reverse the filament using the software, but still had the same problem with the sound and no printout (even though the extruder was moving all along the faceplate as if it was printing something). Finally, after opening up the extruder, I just got a vice grip and clamped on the central gear and started twisting it in reverse. This worked easily to get the filament out, which was stuck because there is no heat in this area, so if the filament gets malformed, it becomes almost impossible to move through the extruder. I clipped the filament and reinserted it and reassembled everything (putting the screws back in place was kinda difficult as it was hard to match everything up). I had to make sure the filament was properly led through the extruder and then into the heating elements. You have to pay attention to the various holes which make up the pathway. Then I started everything up and was able to print something out using an .stl file I had created in Google Sketchup. I accidentally removed the blue tape and the clear yellow foil that was on the printer plate. I replaced it with just blue 3M painters tape which work great as is. For my Chinese machine, even though the Makerbot software was compatible, I found only opensource ReplicatorG worked best in printing out something with no problems (it's very easy to use, BTW). Hope this helps. If you have any questions, let me know. :D
Hi. So am returning my CTC and getting a replacement. How is your CTC on making circles. I can't even make a round gear. My maching gives me distorted circles. I'm hoping that it was just my machine. Also in makerware the extruder would never get the ABS hot enough. Replicator G would though. Weird? Anyways my biggest wonder was on the circles.
My Printer prints circles extremely well, no problems so far. Even printing threads etc is not a problem. It would be interesting how your circles looked like. It also could be a wrong setting in ReplicatorG. Did you view the generated G-Code with the internal viewer before? Anyway, I only use Makerware since I also had some problems with replicatorG
I just got one of these printers and I am using ReplicatorG 0040 with the Replicator Dual profile. When ever I start a print the machine makes a horrible grinding sound and it seems like the arm tries to move farther than what the printer can actually move it. Do you have any ideas or have you run into this?
I didn't have that problem with ReplicatorG (also with Dual Profile) But I had general problems with ReplicatorG so I switched to Makerware and I'm pretty happy with the results.
I had the same problem than you warhawk. after starting the calibration script (where to set the print head to the center of your build platform) the max coordinates for the axes are messed up (every time). when connected to the printer open up machine settings and look for homevref. for y it should be like 74 and then you are fine again :)!
