I've found if you use hybrid tree supports and independent support layer heights in Ocra 2.1.1 you can have adaptive layer prints with tree supports. It's a neat addition for more complex prints.
You can also turn off the one wall on top layer, I do that for most prints. Using concentric or Archimedean Chords top layer also helps to hide the top stair steps.
In the 8 years I have been 3D Printing I constantly see that Fuzzy Skin setting and have always wanted to give it ago, but I never have. I’m going to give this a shot TONIGHT now!
I have about the same amount of years, and also going to print my first fuzzy skin tonight.. but i had that idea yesterday, for a temperature&humidity display housing.
If you do it, to it on a part that does not require tight tolerance. You can however disable Fuzzy skin in areas that require tight tolerance, but I can't explain it completely right here, you basically have to model parts that fit perfectly into the areas you don't want to be fuzzy and disable fuzzy skin on their common overlaps. There are many videos here on youtube that explain the process, It's actually extremely easy.
As is the case with almost all your videos, you do a superb job of giving enough detail to make the concepts easily understood and also immediate actionable while also not providing so much detail that it’s overwhelming. It seems easy but must take a lot of effort. Thank you for creating such great content. It allows so many of us to save time and frustrating and embrace the joy of 3d printing.
For years I've been watching your videos and they've always been interesting and often helpful. This one in particular is extraordinarily useful for the mid-level hobbyist.
Wow I played with adaptive layer height before, but didn't realize you could push the layer height down to 0.04, that fixed the last bit of stair stepping I was getting before, thanks!
This has to be the best explaination & demonstration of variable layer heights! It is amazing how far slicer software has come compared to just 6 years ago. 😲 I had a Tevo Little Monster back then with complete changed electronics (f.e. Duet3D Smart Effector) and this magnetic ball effector holder. I never got out of the PLA testing phase (unsatisfying print results) and quickly lost interest and sold it (yeah, "life" happened). 🤷♂️ I actually thinking about getting back into 3D printing with a Bambu X1-C and armed with fresh modern RU-vid knowledge (material moisture, printer settings, slicer settings). 😎
I've finally printed a model with OrcaSlicer and am highly impressed with the entire process - it's a nice merger of the best of both Cura and PrusaSlicer. Painted z-seams, with a vertical line option. Impressive wipe and gap fill functions. Archemedian Chords solid fills (and more). G Code viewer... the list goes on. So far, it's produced excellent prints and I can see myself using Orca for the majority of my printing needs.
Speed-adaptive layer lines seems like a game changer! And using fuzzy skin for a stipled grip on any kind of tool seems like a free upgrade. Thanks for this video! These are some awesome tools!
Thanks a lot for this advice,its super useful,also i liked the very last point of having a basic calibration dialed in before diving deeper into more advanced settings and tips like the previous ones
Thanks gave me a lot of things to think about. As a former lazy machinist like you I hate sanding or any post processing. Being retired i don’t want to spend all my extra time sanding so this will help. The fuzzy looks a little like a casted piece that was not totally cleaned up, so I’ll be using a little of both and lots of filler spray primer.
Those adaptive layer lines were the top tip for me! I am currently printing almost non-stop and have prepared overnight projects. Adaptive lines save me an hour each on those projects and any curved surfaces will probably look considerably better!
I would like to mention one other thing: on this model, the very top rounded dome is the obvious location of layer lines. RE-ORIENTING YOUR MODEL is another huge important trick to use in combination with the other things you have described here.
for those lines on the top surface i'd recommend trying out ironing.it's not perfectly consistent unfortunately, but it's incredible how much smoother you can make your top surfaces with it. an interesting pattern also goes a long way
Fiber filaments are possibly the easiest cheat code. Not only are they often easier to print, but they can make layer lines disappear almost entirely. It will vary by brand, product line, and color. Generally the more matte the fiber filled filament, the better it will hide the lines. People who hate PETG should also try PETG-CF.
I use adaptive layer lines now with every final print I do. Printing faster now has just really given me access to better quality since I have never really been too fussed with print times. If I’m prototyping then sure, I’ll bang it out at 0,28 until the part is right, then it’s adaptive all the way.
great video. You should have mention ironing as well, I know it is not useful for every case but when you have flat top surfaces it really makes a difference.
I made a bunch solar garden led light holders with natural nylon in vase mode with fuzzy skin. The rough surface does a great job of diffusing the light and look way better than the original product. Oh, and I changed all the plain old boring white LEDs to fancy colours. The green and blue look very nice 😊
You can also use a cheap pyrography iron with a shading point to "iron out" layer lines in tight spaces or where you need to keep sharp edges, of course you'd need the proper PPE.
@@FedericoAlbano83 nah I don’t think so. He stated in another comment that the firmware was already talking to multiple tool heads and that he was waiting for parts. Those things probably take some time, as well as compiling all the details to publish on GitHub since people inevitably will ask for it. I sure hope we’ll get the video soon tho, but good things take time.
It is being worked on. Some time waiting for components to come from China, now waiting for design. The trouble is I don't have a Voron 2, the the DraftSight guys don't have a Sovol SV08. It's hard to meet in the middle in a way that is easy for viewers to follow, but we'll get there.
Great video, LOVE that mask! I'm surprised that you didn't try the smoothing option as well. This is what I use with adaptive layer lines, quality set to MAX, smoothing radius set to 10. It makes a significant difference. I think that's the only thing missing from this video.
I'll be honest half way through I almost clicked off the video because I didn't see using different color filament as really a viable option. I'm glad I stuck around to learn about adaptive layer lines which I didn't know anything about. Another thing to consider is topside ironing. That should help smooth out the top portion that you have.
I use matte filaments most of the time. Printing at .16mm layer heights the results are pretty good regarding layer lines. Combined with adaptive layer height gives great results.
Hi there Michael, great video as always! One thing that could have warranted a place in this video, or in a part 2 perhaps, would be the printer motion system. In my experience, coreXY and delta produce much more consistent layers over bed slingers. I'm sure your experience would be similar.
Great video! I use variable layer heights on almost all of my prints, and the only drawback I see are for the chamfers I place to limit the impact of elephant foot on the first layer. On adaptative mode, the layer height is stuck on max value which is a killer in visual quality for chamfer at 45deg. Otherwise great addition to the 3D printing toolkit !
I've started turning on external walls first. For some overhangs, this isn't a good answer, but for a lot of prints, it smooths out the outer walls tremendously. That and slowing down the outer walls down to 80 or even 60 on a high speed printer doesn't take a lot of extra time, but gives a nice smooth finish and reduces artifacts.
What should be implemented in slicers is some anti aliasing. Reducing a complete layer down to 0.04 mm is fine, but is only needed in some areas of the model. The model in the video is easy, but having any slanted surface could use some anti aliasing. First print the parts on the edges where anti aliasing is needed at half the height, then print the rest at full height. You could even do 4x,8x or 16x anti aliasing. There is a bit more to it than I mentioned, but you'll get the idea. It will even speed up the simple thing in the video as all the internal parts are printed at full height.
Flocking: that is stupidly simple, nice tip. For manual post-processing, i usually use woodfiller and thin it a bit with water/iso mix. Extremely cheap, non-toxic, easy to sand. Downside is that it needs to be sanded, sometimes sticking is a problem (clean the print from ANY oils and roughen it up a bit...) and the dust goes everywhere. Note: do not EVER blow the gypsum dust, always wipe it with moist rag. The dust is abrasive and goes everywhere. It is a fan killer.
If you want to smooth out the last bit on top you could try ironing. It involves running the hot head over surfaces that are parallel to the build plate a second time after they are printed.
G'day and cheers for your excellent channel. This big old boof just keeps learning, this is how to use this function, i have looked at it but never played around.....didnt want to break something. thankyou from Brissy
Slant3D videos teach to use orientation to reduce supports, to hide layer lines by allowing fuzzy skin on almost all surfaces and to make parts stronger by aligning layers (and by design) :)
When I saw you use variable layer height, I thought of a problem that has troubled me for a long time. As we all know, the Z-axis height in normal slicing mode is (number of slice layers * layer height). But this value often has errors with the design value of the model itself. For example, when the model design height is 2.1mm and the slice layer height is 0.2mm, the slicer will actually generate 10 or 11 layers of slices, resulting in a slice error of +-0.1mm. Although this error is small, it is a serious problem in some special cases. For example, if there is a +-0.1mm error in the height of the idler seat and the slider at both ends of the X axis of a coreXY structure 3D printer, it is very obvious and seriously affects the accuracy of the printer. I know that variable layer height can be used to improve this problem. But I found that when we set the minimum and maximum values of the layer height, the automatic variable layer height cannot be automatically adjusted according to the integer multiples of the minimum value. For example, let's take the dimensional error mentioned above. Normally, when we set the minimum layer height to 0.1mm, the variable layer height should be able to correctly identify the design height as 2.1mm, and then slice it into 11 layers, one of which is 0.1mm, and the other 10 layers are all 0.2mm, which is a perfect result. Or there can be 3 layers with a height of 0.1mm and the other 9 layers with a height of 0.2mm, which is also a very good result. However, after many tests, the actual situation is not like this. The slicer is a bit superfluous. It will automatically generate many layer heights with multiple decimal places between 0.1mm-0.2mm, such as 0.100230mm, and so on. The superposition of these values results in the final slicing result still not being an exact 2.1mm, but 2.03mm. Or 2.13mm, and so on. This makes me very confused. Shouldn't the primary task of the slicer be to ensure the dimensional accuracy of the slices as much as possible? The accuracy of the automatically generated layer height value has reached 4-5 decimal places, which is far higher than the Z-axis motion accuracy of most printers. Is it really necessary? Why can't the slicing software recognize the automatic layer height change division value as the minimum layer height? In this way, you can freely configure the minimum layer height according to the Z-axis motion capability of the printer to avoid unnecessary calculations and errors. At the same time, you can appropriately select the minimum layer height according to the design height of the part to achieve the number of slices to be an integer multiple of the minimum layer height, thereby meeting the accuracy requirements. I thought of the above questions when I saw your video. I haven't solved it myself. May I ask how you deal with the Z-axis slice accuracy problem? I also hope that more seniors can help to solve the doubts.
I look forward to each of your videos. But lately when a video appears I get sad. This is due to the fact that you made a video about upgrading the SOVOL SVO8 3d printer. Every time I don't find a continuation of the theme with the SOVOL SVO8 3d printer I stand very, very unhappy. Please make a SOVOL SVO8 video and make my mood great again!!!
I typically will just do a layer height modifier for a part like this where the cutoff between coarse and fine layer lines are pretty clear. But for many parts adaptive layer height can be quite helpful. It just feels a little too inexact for me usually.
In that red handle you show in the video you had fuzzy skin on only part of the print. If I may ask, how did you do that. In Bambu Studio I do not see a way of being able to do certain areas and not others. The handle looks very good. And all the other things you cover are very helpful indeed. Thank you
Great video! How did you selectively apply fuzzy skin to that handle? I thought it was kind of an all or nothing in Orka unless I am missing a setting. Thanks!
Another use for variable layer height is for mechanical prints where you want features at specific heights, not rounded to the nearest 0.2mm (or what ever your printing layer heights are).
I thought, that I would also need these post steps. But than I switched to Bambulab with proper settings and actually the layer lines are nearly gone, the z-line is now, what you need to hide.
One more option is to print at a slight angle. Yes it adds support and it doesn't work for every shape, but for your example shape it would have almost eliminated the flat top surface by moving the top layer to a sharper curve.
I seem to be one of the only people that really doesn't mind the layer lines of 3D printing, though I'm definitely not a fan of stair stepping on shallow sloped surfaces, so I do like the Adaptive layer height capability (which you can also do in the object table with more precision, tho it does take a bit longer to set up)
I'm the same. Most of my prints I either don't care about the layer lines or I need an actually smooth surface (such as when making a mold) so much only option is sand/polish. I do mostly mechanical parts though, not decorative parts. So perhaps that's why I don't mind the layers.
I love Fuzzy skin with conservative numbers. This will give a look that is similar to leather: 0.4 0.12 These values or lower even works inside print in place hinges!
