It must be gratifying for you to pass on your many many years of experience in this trade. I think I speak for many in saying thank you for these videos that are of so much help to us now learning. This is nearly as good as being there with you. Maybe better being out of the weather.
Myself I Would not even worry about its shutting off . #1 move before anything with compressor CHECK STARTING COMPONETS . Jim your the man thank you so much for your effort and professionalism, please keep sharing and showing.
Jim after thirty eight years of being in my own business like you I retired two years ago, After watching your videos I need to go back to work. I retired because i had two back and one knee operations. and need two new knees. I kept all my tools was a dam good mechanic like you. Its a shame not to use all those years of wisdom, I like that fluke digital thermometer what model is that. I have the old fluke digital with the small digits had to see with old eyes. Thanks from a Michigan refrigeration mechanic.
Great video jim, you remind me alot of my grandfather ( no offence ) he has taught me everything i know and still works almost everyday with me at 84 years old. I love how meticulous you are when it comes to sealing the lines, there are alot of guys that dont even clean the pipes before brazing let alone use any kind of flux. Your work is top notch!!! Maybe is you get a chance on of these days you could do a video of your van set up, im never happy with how mine is set up, you seem to have a great setup from the few glimpses we have had of the inside of your van in a few videos.
I did work at a beer distributor a few years back before they sold out to a large distributor, the maintence man was 85 named Ray and he was a retired fireman, I always said that I want to be like Ray when I grow up. God Bless your Grandpa. I'm 65, my goal is to keep working until I have a heart attack behind a beer case, so the EMF has to pull me out by my feet. When I get a chance to clean my van, I'll do a video on it. Thanks.
If flare leaks it will be coming out of the back of the flare nut! I see tons of guys do this and it shows that you are not understanding how the flare works. Not trying to be ungrateful for the video though... the best guys out there learn every day!!! Nice work.
Really? I use Teflon also especially when the lip has a tiny hairline. Works every time.. never leaks.. NEVER.. and this is before nylog came out.. FYI it does work
Looks like the back of a store in the country! Nice work! I am so fascinated by AC systems and love this part of it. I'm too old to want to crawl under houses installing new duct work every day though.
While using his wire brushes and sand paper to clean the pipes he introduced a lot of fine metal particles inside the the compressor. When performing the same job I stick a piece of lint free cloth inside the tubes in order to avoid any junk falling deep inside. After I'm done with the cleaning I vacuum the dust and remove the cloth. I believe it to be a more professional way of doing it ;) )
ForexOracle if the pipes are not facing down, I use nitrogen to purge them using a white rag to raise pressure while doing so, we should have nitrogen in hand anyways for most of our mayor repairs, greetings.
good work Jim, must be a plumber thing I have one I work with sometimes and he is good for that in crawlspaces! lol thanks for posting, always enjoy your videos.
Good Video Jim, So I assume that the old compressor locked up and still continued to give resistance regardless of the overload which was not working internally. Good tip...
some times if the wires in the winding overheats and burns you get carbonization, electricity will travel across carbon, carbon arcing, I suspect thats why I got continuity. thanks
I really like this guy. His vids are easy for me to follow along. Funny thing, if you close your eyes at 7:05 to about 7:35 he sounds just like Justin Hoffman from RainMan. Voice down pact and everything! But I love his vids! Good stuff. Thanks for posting!
So the teflon tape obviously stops the nut vibrating off the unit pipework, as it does not go anywhere near the flare faces does it ?? I did notice in your video ....Please turn the teflon tape dispenser around when applying to thread as it will tighten to the thread and snap off easier while it is spun around the thread ...
Really enjoy your videos Jim been watching them a little while now sorry this is first time I've commented! I pretty much just do heating and AC now but when I started in this trade with my dad I did Refrigeration. Your videos are making me miss it a little lol! Thanks for the videos Jim!
Would you take a pic of your camera or what you use to video? Great video's. I could learn a lot on attempting to make my own. How is it the picture moves on its own, like it zooms in and out slightly as you're working. Also, why not use leak lock Gold which already has teflon in it?
I love coming across one of Jim's yellow tags on a compressor. I only wonder why they stopped calling him as he is roughly 5500% of a better tech than I am.
jim, do you always use stay silv flux for copper to copper welds? i've seen you use it with brass access fittings to copper also.. I've always had to use silver solder for copper to brass... interesting.
Hey Jim, regarding the filter, do you recommend the suction line or the liquid line? I have heard that a liquid filter will do a better job but I have also heard the suction filter is better to use after a burn out but it shouldnt be left in long term.
Another great video Jim. Got a quick question for you. Why the tefelon on the threads if the seal is the flare? Young tech looking to learn. Keep posting!!
Flares leak, I use blue leak lock sealant first, then teflon tape next, I don't want the refrigerant to leak out, if it does I have to come back, find & fix the leak and I have to pay for the refrigerant. thanks
So I'm relatively new to commercial, and I have a question. Why do you always put flared filter driers? Like is it just for the ease of putting in a new one or something else?
Quick and easy replacement. Pump the system down, recover any extra gas and replace the filter, then run a vacuum to ensure it doesn't leak and then break the vacuum with the pump downed refrigerant. In short, you don't need to bring a torch and tank/s with you every time.
Hi Jim, Thank you so very much for making this! I'm about to tackle my first compressor replacement in a Lennox residential unit (Copeland Scroll Compressor). I am wondering about the compressor oil? I assume the new compressor comes pre-loaded with new oil? Also is there a need to place any additional amount of oil in the lines (similar to what we do in automotive). Also, since the compressor I am replacing is shorted out, I have heard that it is not a good idea to use any of the recovered refrigerant because it could tend to be nasty after a burn out. Do you agree? Thanks again!, Wes
+Wes Bishop get rid of the old refrigerant, a burnout causes a serious acid condition, you can smell it, if it's left in the system it will eat through the new motor winding's varnish insulation. The compressor has sufficient amount of oil in it, don't add any more. Install a flare drier filter I would use an emerson ek drier or a sporlan HH drier filter, let the system run for a week then replace the drier to remove the acid. They make an inexpensive acid tester.
I am trying for the life of me to figure out why you used flux. Aren't you brazing with 15% silver? As far as the flare fittings go, I've seen other videos where you use teflon tape on flare fittings. I say even though it will not prevent a leak, I know it makes you fell better about it, so that's all that matters. I suggest using Nylog instead.
I thought when doing a recovery u have to put liquid Thur liquid side of the recovery tank and vapor on the vapor side of the recovery tank an also have u every had any problems with liquid receiver leaking from the stem when backseating and front seating if so what did u do to resolve this problem ? And thank you in advance I’m referring to the packing on the stem
I was taught in school if you make a perfect flare. You should never have a leak and never have to use that blue stuff. I for one dont use it as i was told it will clog the system. So far just bare metal on metal flares i have bot had any problems
Paul Brandt good,if that works for you, I've used it since the 60's, never had it block a system, haven't heard that wives tale, I use it sparingly it works good.
You better remove that sight glass from Your gauges and Locktite it. My buddy was testing a/c with nitrogen and all the sudden something hit him in the cheek. Now his face looks almost okay but You can hear air coming from his ear when he plugs his nose. That glass ended up really deep in his face, literally.
just did, no reason, if you were wondering about exposure time, I pulled a 250 micron vaccum, that would have taken care of any humidity. I was told a long time ago that Alco in their research and development lab did tests on driers, they left a drier on a shelf with both ends open for a year and it was still fine, I found that a little hard to believe, but they said as long as no air flowed through the direr it was alright. I haven't had any problems , I don't think I would trust a year old open drier though. Thanks
just don't flow too much nitrogen, a small amount will displace the refrigerant gas and oxygen that carbonizes. Just make sure that the electric power is off, nitrogen doesn't compress like refrigerant, if the compressor runs with nitrogen it can explode.
If you have a way to power an ac it should work unless it has a reciprocating compressor because reciprocating compressors are much more prone to vibration damage.
if the flare is not sealed then it flared wrong also when you put that tape on it has a proper direction to put it on were the tape want roll off when tighten but no need for tape if you flare you pipe the right way
that's in a perfect world, in the field you come across too many not perfect flares, you can't relate all of them, Teflon tape and leak lock is security that when you leave vibration or expansion contraction doesn't cause a poor flare from leaking.
Firs let me say Jim, you seem to have knowledge on a vast majority of refrigeration equipment. I just have a few questions though, and I submit them as an approach to educate and to inform.First, you don't explain what the compressor's failure is. From your video I've not seen you determine that the compressor is in fact bad, but actually chalked your conflicting theory of continuity and overloads not opening up toooo carbonization.May I add that potential relays are NC and it would appear that what was happening to your high amps, actually energized the coil of the relay, but either the compressor failed to generate enough amps for the pick up coil to remain closed, either because of a bad cap, relay malfunction, or actual locked rotor.Second, if the compressor was to be replaced, assuming it was condemned first, someone had to have checked this out. Why go through the trouble showing your troubleshooting and not be able to confirm the diagnostics for your audience's enlightenment.
On a three phase compressor when the internal overload opens up (do over amping or excessive heat); it opens on all three legs. On a single phase motor the internal or external overload is wired in between the common....so if the overload opens R-C would be open and S-C would be open and S-R you have continuity.
Why why why? Mr Pettinato, Im sure you know what my gripe is going to be, thats right its the shit you put on the drier, not one but two types of thread seal the leak lock and the teflon tape. Ive noticed other people have made this observation and you have just dismissed them like you have me. This time you even go as far as to dab it on the service that is actually doing the sealing. It is just WRONG WRONG WRONG. What do I need to do to convince you? Yes I would love to see the slavering of four tubes of leak lock dedicated to me.
I am not in favor of leak lock or teflon tape, mostly, but I know if I had a video rolling on my work, probably a lot more wrong there than this. As for the flare itself, I just started to use the new Spin Flaring tool, which connects to the drill. It is simple, FAST, easy, and very accurate. I've used it only a few times, as best I can tell, it's great. I am always worried about gimmick tools, but this seems to work good. I hope it holds up with use.
I think I know what's wrong the only thing that gives those symptoms which are similar to a grounded compress and Locked rotor amps, but is neither is something called In a class I took about compressors it was very interesting
